Above & Beyond Our focus on sustainable farming, classic techniques, DQGSXULW\RI(cid:3)DYRUSURGXFHIUXLWGULYHQEDODQFHG DQGDZDUGZLQQLQJZLQHV A N D T H A T ' S N O T A L L 94 Cellar Selection 2019 Estate Petit Verdot High Valley 93 92 93 Editors' Choice 2019 Estate Zinfandel High Valley 2019 VINTAGE 92 Points 3HUVSHFWLYH9LQH\DUG Estate Syrah High Valley 92 Points 2017 Volcano Ridge Vineyard Estate Malbec High Valley 91 Points (VWDWH&DEHUQHW6DXYLJQRQ High Valley Family-owned and operated. 100% estate-bottled. 6XVWDLQDEO\IDUPHGb ZZZEUDVV(cid:4)HOGHVWDWHFRP Clearlake Oaks, California Scores published in October 2022 Issue October 2022 49 Emerging Tastemakers and Innovators BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST Cover Photography by Matt Sayles Jackie Summers • Founder and CEO, JackFromBrooklyn Inc. • Brooklyn, NY WINE ENTHUSIAST | 3 October 2022 Features 106 Prepare for a good ribbing 93 100 116 More than Making waves Rice may one way to on the West not be so fight scurvy Sonoma Coast regional 93 SEAWORTHY SPIRITS 100 WAY OUT WEST 106 RIB RAPTURE 116 IS THERE SUCH A THING AS SAKÉ TERROIR? BY KARA NEWMAN BY VIRGINIE BOONE BY NILS BERNSTEIN Sugar cane spirits from around the globe What some have long called the “true” Don’t relegate ribs to summer B Y ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA can take vastly different forms. Sonoma Coast fi nally gets its due. barbecues. These rib recipes are made It’s complicated. for leisurely cold-weather cooking— paired with soul-warming wines or whiskey to match. 4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2022 October 2022 Departments Buying Guide 40 Gamay takes a trek around the world 121 Reviewed this month OUT & ABOUT 122 Bordeaux 42 Aft er volcanic eruptions 14 With La Gioiosa, Taste of devastated its soils, 146 Australia Santa Barbara, Wine & Hip farmers in the Canary 147 Austria Hop and Toast the Coast Islands dug deep 148 Germany 150 Piedmont THE CRUSH Columns 152 Portugal 18 The cannabis-infused 153 South Africa beverage taste-test 154 California PUBLISHER’S LETTER 156 Washington 20 Pairing wine with ginger 158 Spirits 10 A New Era 22 Q&A with Cristián Vallejo, 159 Beer head winemaker at VIK BY JACQUELINE STRUM Winery 26 Candy corn grows up in a VIEWPOINT whimsical whiskey cocktail 44 From Wine Tasting to 28 These drinks put the boo in Weed Tasting booze 32 A winey twist on caramel BY STACY BRISCOE apples 34 Rosé and country music LAST DROP with The Chicks 160 Stuck in the Middle 37 The rise and fall and rise again of vinyl bars BY TODD BRILLIANT 6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2022 D RO P a I N S P I R AT I O N of to broaden your palate Distinctive blends inspired by a legacy of artful winemaking at our Sonoma Estate. VOLUME 35, NUMBER 6 Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR, PRINT John Capone TASTING DIRECTOR Anna-Christina Cabrales CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli EDITORIAL DESIGN TASTING SOCIAL WRITERS AT LARGE SENIOR EDITOR, PRINT ART DIRECTOR SENIOR EDITOR, TASTING DIRECTOR OF SOCIAL MEDIA WINE Stacy Briscoe Monica Simon Jim Gordon Elyse Estrella Michael Alberty, Virginie Boone, Danielle Callegari, Mike DeSimone, DIGITAL EDITOR DIGITAL VISUALS EDITOR ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Matt Kettmann, Christina Pickard, Kristen Richard Evan de Normandie Fiona Adams Marco Bruno Jeff Porter, Emily Saladino, Layla ASSISTANT EDITOR, DIGITAL DIGITAL DESIGNER SENIOR TASTING COORDINATOR COMMUNITY COORDINATOR Shlack, Jesica Vargas, Roger Voss, J’nai Gaither Eric DeFreitas Craig Chamberlain Ruya Kirac Aleks Zecevic ASSISTANT EDITOR, PRINT VISUALS PRODUCER ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR SPIRITS Jacy Topps Jesse Reiter Cody Wexler Kara Newman EDITORIAL ASSISTANT, DIGITAL ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER BEER Jaime Brown Tom Arena John Holl CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD TRAVEL Nils Bernstein Lauren Mowery EDITORIAL OFFICES 200 Summit Lake Drive Valhalla, NY 10595 TEL: 914.345.9463 [email protected] EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL ADVERTISING Greg Remillard ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Sherrill Flaum DIRECTOR OF CLIENT SUCCESS Emily Matson ADVERTISING MARKETING WINE ENTHUSIAST COMPANIES SENIOR WEST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER DIGITAL PRODUCT AND MARKETING MANAGER CHAIRMAN & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER/ Karen Hackett TEL: 510.225.8537 [email protected] Itzel Wittlif EDITOR & PUBLISHER EMERITUS Adam M. 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Subscriptions are $34.95 (International: Canada $59.95; Foreign $89.95). ©2022 Wine News, Inc. 200 Summit Lake Drive, Valhalla, NY 10595. Periodical postage paid at White Plains, NY and additional mailing offi ces. Manufactured and printed in the USA. Reprints: You must obtain permission to reproduce any material. Postmaster: Please send address changes to Wine Enthusiast, P.O. Box 420234, Palm Coast, FL 32142.0234 8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2022