Untitled - Apparel Resources

40 Pages·2016·2.3 MB·English

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Editor-in-Chief
DEEPAK MOHINDRA VOL. XIV • ISSUE 10
www.apparelresources.com
Technical Editors
Technology and Management in Sewn Product Industry
PAUL COLLYER (UK)
CLAUDIA OLLENHAUER-RIES (GERMANY)
Copy Editor
TechByte
VEERESHWAR SOBTI
Asst. Copy Editor 8 HOW DO YOU TRAIN YOUR
SAHIL SEHGAL OPERATORS?
Technical Correspondent
SAUMYA KHARYA NewsTrack
NEHA SINGAL
Design & Production 10 INDIA: APPAREL EXPORTERS 14
WITNESSING GOOD DEMAND FOR
RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL ‘EMBROIDERY’ The fair is expected to witness participation
PEEUSH JAUHARI of leading denim jeans and fabric companies
SATYAPAL BISHT 12 INDIA: PARAS FASHIONS INVESTING along with other suppliers in denim supply
RS. 8 CRORE IN NEW FACTORY chain
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QUALITY WORRIES
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www.apparelresources.com  DECEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 5
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E D I T OR I A L
The more countries I visit, the more I realize that the problems faced by the industry
are more or less the same… It is just the culture of the place and peoples’ happiness
levels and aspirations that make the small differences in productivity and efficiency
levels of the factory.
I have closely observed the industry in India, Bangladesh and now Vietnam…, and
one thing is very clear, factories in all these countries need technology management
interventions at all levels.
Though there are only a few Vietnamese apparel manufacturing companies in
Vietnam with production being dominated by the Chinese, Taiwanese and Korean
companies, the problems in terms of management are the same. My understanding
after talking to some experts working in the industry is that irrespective of
where the country of origin is, all require some kind of production management
intervention, similar to what Indian or Bangladeshi companies require.
On the hindsight, it seems that although most of the countries from where
garmenting has shifted from – like Korea, the US, Europe and even Japan – have
progressed immensely as nations, but garment factory management skills
have remained at the same level when they left the country… Case in point is
the numerous foreign-owned factories in Vietnam, where systems of effective
management are still ‘old school’. These companies have moved out of their
respective countries too long back to imbibe any new system.
Technology upgradation is easy as latest machines are available to all, but how to
optimize factory resources, including the machines, is another ball game. I strongly
feel that to grow, factories require latest intervention in production management as
much as any other input, perhaps the need is even more…!
At StitchWorld, it is our effort to provide insights into such production management
systems and tools. In this issue we bring to you an article ‘Quality Engineering – An
emerging concept to ease quality worries’! which discusses in detail the concept
of quality engineering as opposed to quality control as the new mantra to ensure
quality of product during the production process.
The various technology interventions for button wrapping from basic machines to
fully automatic ones, is the focus in our technology segment. In another interesting
read, an ex-NIFTian shares his journey to create a unique business model to support
designers with samples and small production runs.
Deepak Mohindra
Editor-in-Chief
Read and comment on my blog at
http://stitchworldmagazine.blogspot.com
www.apparelresources.com  DECEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 7
Tech Byte
TECH BYTES
Which department is responsible for recruitment and training of sewing operators? How do you select fresh recruits for sewing job?
Do you conduct any test (like peg board test, ball & tube test, etc.)? Please name those tests.
Do you conduct any sewing test also? What do you give/ask them to sew?
After recruitment, how do you train them to make them production-ready? How long is the training period? What all do you teach in
the training period? Are there any provisions of re-training of sewing operators (to acquire new skill) who are already in production?
Our IE team is basically responsible for recruitment and training and verifies their relevant documents and takes them through
of the sewing operators. We hire trained sewing operators as they other mandatory aspects pertaining to overtime, salary, discipline
are readily available. Rather than standard tests like peg board, ball at workplace, etc. After the preliminary rounds, on-machine test
& tube, etc., we check their sewing skills on the machines directly is conducted, including operations like collar and placket. This is
and ask them to perform operations like sleeve placket, pocket followed by a dental test and a general physical fitness check-up.
attachment, collar stitch besides operating the machines in circles. Though we hire operators till the age of 50, it is the duty of the
If he/she clears the mandatory operations as per the set standards/ dentist to ascertain the exact age, as it matters a lot. We try to
expectations of IE team, the recruitment process is subsequently complete all these processes between 12:00 Noon to 1:00 PM,
taken over by the HR Department, which cross-checks and verifies saving our as well as operator’s valuable time.
the candidate’s previous work records/documents in other At times, operators requests us to designate them in ‘A’ grade;
companies. We also ensure that the operators are physically fit. under such a scenario we ask them to perform operations like slit,
As far as standards are concerned, we believe the operators’ ideal complete collar making, various kinds of pocket making, etc. If they
height should be between 5'3" to 5'9" and the person should not perform well, we give them ‘A’ grade.
also be overweight.
Operators training being the focus area for us, we conduct
Once these processes are completed, our welfare team conducts one week’s full time training for fresh recruits (with no prior
a half-day induction programme for the new recruits, aided by experience) under the supervision of the IE team. We teach them
audio-visual presentations to enable them know in details about basics like straight seam, panels joining, etc. During the training
our company, the Orient Craft, besides our working culture, session, sufficient information about the company and also the
facilities provided, and also answer their other queries if any. industry is shared with them. Another major training programme
that we conduct includes shifting of lockstitch operator to
As far as the training after recruitment is concerned, we don’t
overclock and flat machines, which again is of one week’s duration.
have any set system/procedure for the same. According to specific
needs and requirements, our IE team conducts training sessions
from time to time. In select cases training sessions are conducted ASHOK KUMAR
in in-house workshops where technical experts prepare new Senior IE Manager, Richa Global, Gurgaon
folders and attachments which the operators need to know and
understand how to operate. Apart from these, sometimes some
TechByte
operators need training for certain styles, which we conduct
accordingly. StitchWorld JANUARY 2017 Question
For us, getting trained operators for recruitment is easier, thanks
to the facilities that we provide, like booking of railway tickets, Were you present at the 10th edition of India
reimbursement of expenses pertaining to the journey, facilitating ITME, held in Mumbai recently?
easy day-to-day banking within the premises, availability of
How did you find the exhibits at the event?
LPG cylinders for domestic use etc., which actually matters a lot
to them. What interested you the most? Where do
you feel the industry is moving after having
PAWAN ARYA
a look at the latest technologies displayed at
Assistant VP, Orient Craft Ltd., Noida
the exhibition?
Of the 25 product launches that took place in
Floor in-charge, HR and IE are the main persons/departments
the event, which one caught your eye?
involved in this entire process, right from hiring, training to joining.
Everyday our floor in-charge spends at least 30 minutes meeting
the interested candidates, explaining them skill set required for Write your comments to us by 20th December 2016 at:
[email protected] or post your views online through our website:
the said job, check their credentials, their previous experience, etc.,
www.apparelresources.com
following which they meet the HR personnel, who cross checks
8 StitchWorld  DECEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com
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News Track
India: Groz-Beckert to bring latest innovations at ‘India ITME 2016’
India: Apparel
exporters
At the upcoming India
witnessing good ITME 2016, to be held
demand for from 3rd to 8th December
in Mumbai, Groz-Beckert
‘embroidery’
will exhibit products and
solutions in the areas of
The most common knitting, weaving, felting,
value-addition carding and sewing.
technique – embroidery
From the knitting segment,
– is currently very
Groz-Beckert will highlight
much in demand. Be
the areas of round and flat Groz-Beckert circular knitting acrylic exhibit
it export houses, job-
knitting, as well as warp and
workers, or machines’
sock fabrics. The transparent
suppliers…, every
exhibits – detailed replicas of used for technical textiles platform that makes available
industry stakeholder is
real knitting machines – will that has a unique geometry. comprehensive information
positive about the trend
provide visitors with insights Its thread guide has been on sewing technology and
and increasing demand
into the interplay of knitting improved by addition of many details on sewing
for embroidery.
machine needles and system a double groove in the products from Groz-Beckert.
“Overall market is slow parts. In the area of warp point. Moreover, it has an The company will also present
but comparatively sale knitting, the transparent additional scarf chamfer on its new quality management
is good,” says Murari Lal exhibits also give interested the left side to ensure secure ‘Ideal Needle Handling’ (INH),
Parasurampuria of Baba parties a look at compound loop formation. for the sewing industry which
Textile Machinery, New needles and warp modules For the first time, Groz- involves a patented process
Delhi, who is selling more from Groz-Beckert. Beckert’s newest product that allows trouble-free and
than 1,000 embroidery Felting will also be presented area – Carding, will be time-saving handling of
machines per year and at this year’s India ITME, displayed at the India broken and damaged sewing
further expecting to vend focusing on felting and ITME which will have machine needles in running
1,200 machines in next structuring needles for comprehensive products operation, at the show.
12 months. According to
flat-needled and structured customers of nonwovens The process supports
him, machines for plain
nonwovens for which with unique properties customers in complying
embroidery is more in
oversized needle models that contribute to more with different brand-owner
demand, even though
will be presented at the fair uniform quality and specifications in a uniform
in Delhi-NCR machines
to better explain its features increased productivity. way. Furthermore, it helps
with 15 or 18 heads
and benefits. Groz-Beckert has come bring targets such as
are more in demand as
the market is also now In the product area of sewing, up with a Customer Portal environmentally-friendly
changing slightly. Groz-Beckert will highlight which is a continuously handling or productivity
its improved needle SAN® 5, expanding knowledge boosting into focus.
TRADE STATISTICS
In the period In the period India faced a down Vietnam noted a
January-August January-September surge of (-) 2 per cent jump of 5.19 per cent
2016, global apparel 2016, global apparel in quantity of total and 1.64 per cent in
imports by the EU imports by the US apparel exports to terms of quantity and
increased 4.61 per plunged (-) 4.99 the US in the period value, respectively
cent in terms of per cent in terms of January-September of the total apparel
volume but witnessed value. Additionally, 2016 and (-) 0.08 per exports to US in
a marginal decrease it faced a decline of cent value wise. January-September
of (-) 0.03 per cent in (-) 1.57 per cent in 2016 period.
terms of value. terms of volume.
10 StitchWorld  DECEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com