Untitled - Apparel Resources

52 Pages·2017·2.49 MB·English

2 StitchWorld
2 StitchWorld  OCTOBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com
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Editor-in-Chief
DEEPAK MOHINDRA
Technical Editors VOL. XIV • ISSUE 11
PAUL COLLYER (UK) www.apparelresources.com
CLAUDIA OLLENHAUER-RIES (GERMANY) Technology and Management in Woven and Knitted Product Industry
Copy Editor
VEERESHWAR SOBTI
Asst. Copy Editor
SAHIL SEHGAL Retrospect
Technical Correspondent 2016
SAUMYA KHARYA
NEHA SINGAL
8 BEST PRACTICES
Design & Production
RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL 12 PEOPLE
PEEUSH JAUHARI 9
SATYAPAL BISHT 14 PRODUCTION
MANAGEMENT Nagesh Badida, Executive Director (extreme
left), and Parameswar Chopparapu, Global
Subscription Enquiry Manufacturing Director, Aquarelle Group
RANI MAHENDRU - 011-47390000 28 TECHNOLOGY 4.0 (standing next to him) with their senior team
at Aquarelle factory that manufactures
casual shirts
30 PRODUCTION
Publisher & Managing Director TECHNOLOGY
RENU MOHINDRA - 09810058986
38 SUSTAINABILITY
Head Office 40 HUMAN RESOURCE
Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd. MANAGEMENT
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E D I T OR I A L
StitchWorld is in its 14th year, and has evolved tremendously in its content and reach.
We have graduated from topics like operator and supervisor training to concepts like
IoT, M2M and automation, moving towards Robotics and the era of 3D printing and 3D
pattern making. Yet, the focus of the magazine has not changed at all – productivity,
on-time delivery and quality – still remain at the core; how to achieve these goals are
evolving, resulting in new concepts and management tools.
Today, managing a factory is a very complex game; it is no longer about just building
a state-of-the-art factory. How the factory is managed, and what are the external
influences and challenges of profitability are critical elements that can make or break
even the best of factories… Through the year, my editorials have reflected these
challenges…, emerging from factors both within and outside the factory.
It all sounds very nice, but the industry is taking a cautious stand… They know that
Governments don’t really understand the nuances of the industry, and just by giving
incentives to set-up a unit is not going to help the cause. I have pointed out many
times that the issue is inter-related to many concerns… In my editorial in February,
I had said, “The three areas that need attention are ‘Clean India’, ‘Healthy India’ and
‘Corruption-free India’. If these three areas are taken care of, all other requirements for
sustainable growth of manufacturing will follow automatically.”
Another interesting point that evolved over the year and strongly advocated by the
stalwarts of the technology industry is that automation alone is not the answer to
labour issues… They emphasize on the need to balance automation with motivation.
I fully endorse this view and we are almost ending from where we started – operator
training; only the focus is not so much on training but motivation!
I had pointed out in my September editorial that too much automation is not a
solution, it has to be selective automation on those operations where replacing the
labour makes sense. After all it is about replacing labour wages that cost rupees per
month as against western countries where the equation is in dollars per day.
External influences like terrorism, Brexit, US elections have all been contemplated
on, and 2017 will see how these events of the past year will push business interest.
New innovations, technology service outsourcing, re-shoring and new global
manufacturing destinations like Ethiopia and Myanmar have all found place in various
editorial musings… But what I would like to say fresh is that the time has come to
reassess the scope of StitchWorld – sewing industry is now too big to be limited by
the literal context.
This year we propose to re-orient focus within the gamut of garment
manufacturing and management. The new focus areas besides the core subjects
of production technology and production/product management will be on:
Technology 4.0 that will talk about future technologies; Information Technology – a
rundown on latest offering from the segment; Global Sourcing – acknowledging that
manufacturing in one country is a culmination of sourcing from various destinations;
Sustainability – the future no doubt; HR Management – a step upward from pure
labour issues; Value Addition – creating differentiation for companies and countries;
and finally Knitting Technology – a reality check, recognizing that garmenting is both
about woven and knitted products.
Deepak Mohindra
Editor-in-Chief
Read and comment on my blog at
http://stitchworldmagazine.blogspot.com
www.apparelresources.com  JANUARY 2017  7
Retrospect 2016
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Apparel manufacturing companies are no more keeping their best practices closeted
as a secret. While StitchWorld is advocating shared learning in its mission to unbox
the detail, we would go anywhere in the world to bring to our readers’ case studies
BEST from excelling companies that could be applied in garment facilities to standardize the
process. The Global Standardization Process Strategy and manufacturing competency
PRACTICES
of Aquarelle are the ‘goals’ of any manufacturing facility. Another in the list is Sai-Tex
in Vietnam that is raising the global standards of denim manufacturing through its
high-end technology and value-added finishing techniques in denim manufacturing.
Crystal Martin, walking on the path of lean has set an example for every organization.
 June 2016 the line in two to three intervals, the rejection rate to less than
in a trolley. This not only makes one per cent. The US $ 1.8 billion
Crystal Martin: Lean
material management easier, Crystal Group, aiming to expand its
takes the centre but also saves the extra process capacities, is all set to come up with
stage; plans to double of numbering. The process of a new manufacturing unit in Valuka
capacity to cater well bundling has been eliminated to cater to its existing client M&S
existing and new as the pieces’ travel in small as well as to fulfil the requirements
buckets, in the line, from which of its new buyer NEXT. Having
buyers
the operator picks up the piece, created its niche by manufacturing
Crystal Martin came into existence
carries out his/her operation, puts activewear, sportswear, winterwear
when Hong Kong-based Crystal
it back, and passes it ahead,” states (fleece), and nightwear (georgette,
Group acquired UK-based
Vimarsha. In order to maintain chiffon) with value-additions
Martin Impex in 2004. Currently,
like computerized embroidery
the company runs factories in
and heat transfer printing,
Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Vietnam and
Crystal Martin has hired near
Bangladesh.
about 25 people from Sri Lanka
Vimarsha Peiris, General Manager and Philippines for mid-level and
– Operations, Crystal Martin, top-level management profiles
Sri Lanka says, “Crystal Martin’s that have also helped the company
Bangladesh arm is now in the tide over the issue of managing
pursuit of implementing lean while multiple styles in manufacturing
also trying to double its capacity that it is renowned for.
in the near future. Streamlining
operations and implementing lean  July 2016
manufacturing is our top priority.” Vimarsha Peiris, General Manager – Operations,
Crystal Martin, Sri Lanka
To start with, the company has Sai-Tex: Pioneering
designed the layout of the factory quality, the company has further the Vietnamese denim
in such a manner to ensure that the dedicated separate blocks and wave
fabric store, cutting department, trained operators making use of Sai-Tex has carved its reputation
sewing department, with on-line a maximum of 36 machines in as the sculptor of the Vietnamese
finishing, all follow a linear flow each line. denim manufacturing industry.
of material.
To maintain the quality of output, “Our territories and niche are
Vimarsha is now planning to bring Crystal Martin also practices traffic clearly marked. We are looking at
the WIP further down from the light system and affirmatively offering to the denim industry a
present 2 to 2½ days between ensures that the operators check prowess equivalent to Turkey’s,”
cutting and sewing. “If the IE makes the quality of pieces done by them, says Md. Ifthikar, Production
an estimate of 500 pieces’ output, to eliminate the need of in-line Director, Sai-Tex. The entire factory’s
then 500 pieces are introduced in checkers which has brought down performance can be accessed by
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Retrospect 2016
Division), which has 20 factories
located in four countries –
Mauritius, Madagascar, India
and Bangladesh – is a growing
company which is proud to be
Indian by team but international in
its functioning. “We have a unique
GSP (Global Standardisation
Process) which we are driving in
for the last three years. Therefore,
what runs here for casual shirts,
runs the same at the other two
The conveyorized hanger picks up the freshly laundered jeans, passes them through the curing
chamber, and thereafter takes them up to the roof for drying (in hanging condition) and within 10-15 factories in other countries too.
minutes brings the pieces down to floor The local team manages the
product nuances according to
the customers’ needs as per their
Ifthikar at any given time using the a product with Total SAM of resources,” says Nagesh Badida,
G-Pro RFID based real time data 14 minutes (5 minutes: front; Executive Director, Aquarelle. The
collection systems integrated with 3 minutes: back; and 6 minutes: company has even standardized
FastReact ERP. “Factories generally assembly), the sewing throughput the machines used on the
use manual challans and stay stuck time is brought down by 37 per production floor across all factory
in the rut of follow-ups of stale cent, to mere 8 minutes. locations along with their model
information. We on the other hand numbers and brands, according to
The conveyorized hanger at
have cut discrepancies by 70-80 the operations.
the facility picks up the freshly
per cent,” he shares.
laundered jeans, passes them Thorough pre-production
The company deals with small through the curing chamber, systems for smooth
order quantities (3,500 pieces) and thereafter takes them up to production…
of value-added products and yet the roof for drying (in hanging
Sampling, the 2nd phase of
the average style changeover condition), and within 10-15
pre-production is done in four
time at the factory is one hour – a minutes brings the pieces down
stages. It depends on the buyers’
staggeringly low statistics. The
to floor. This reduces the residual
impressive feat comes on the back
moisture in the garment for
of implementation of Kanban,
subsequent drying. He avers that
Supermarkets, Central Part Units,
nothing hurts productivity like
and Automation, a judicious
poor quality, not even machine
combination of management tools
breakdowns, lack of skilled labour
and technology. Central Part Units,
or absenteeism. Ifthikar has
i.e. instead of a single assembly
deployed Roving QCs and in-
line, there are three types of lines
line QCs at every front, back, and
– front, back, and assembly. Each
assembly line. “Front and back
line type has mutually balanced
lines’ output serves as an input to
targets and a Supermarket exists Nagesh Badida, Executive Director (extreme left),
the assembly process and we have
between assembly and parts. and Parameswar Chopparapu, Global Manufacturing
to ensure that it is perfect so that Director, Aquarelle Group (standing next to him)
Alongside this, the changeover with their senior team at Aquarelle factory that
when it goes to assembly, it does
team looks after areas such as manufactures casual shirts
not come back,” he explains.
threads, presser foots, needles,
etc. to be changed. The benefits requirements as to how many
of this system are manifested as  November 2016 samples he requires. First there’s
time and material handling savings a stage sample, followed by a fit
Aquarelle
as well. In conventional assembly sample, then the size set sample
standardizing systems
lines, an operator working on front and lastly, the proto sample.
across the globe
also transports the back. CPUs Following the sampling process,
help eliminate this transportation Aquarelle – the casual shirts the production department
wastage. Talking about the time division of the Mauritius-based conducts a pilot run at the factory,
saving, Ifthikar shares that for CIEL Textile Group (Apparel which is the 3rd phase of the
www.apparelresources.com  JANUARY 2017  9
Retrospect 2016
pre-production process. The pilot need to run two shifts to get the along with standard videos,
run starts in the production line ROI; so we are still figuring it out, operational breakdowns of
itself, about 10-12 days before because this is a small unit, and styles, maintaining skill matrix,
the production needs to begin, you need to cut at least 10,000 to deskilling IE team’s work to
depending on the kind of wash 12,000 pieces with an automatic establish a common database and
that is required in the garment. cutter per day to make it viable. ease the communication across
On an average, there are one or We have plans to save money the factory.”
two pilot styles in the line. Any from such experiments and then
Maintenance room…
problems that are encountered use it further to automate our
in the pilot run are reviewed and processes,” states Ashok Kumar, Any tool, spare part, folder or
discussed so that it does not occur Global Head – IE. equipment required in the factory
in the production line and cause is stored in the maintenance room,
Innovative ways to monitor
machine breakdown or downtime. managed to the level that anyone
workflow and support
efficiency…
The factory has a clear visual
system, where the ‘Δ’ sign is for
efficiency, and the ‘O’ is for quality.
These are also colour codes, where
green stands for above 75 per
cent efficiency; yellow is to depict
under 60-75 per cent efficiency,
and red is for people working at
Aquarelle rigorously follows preventive maintenance
efficiency below 60 per cent. “By for its machines by updating its Preventive
Aquarelle aces Visual Management by using visual just a glance, we can figure out Maintenance Board that keeps track of the status of
aids in production lines each machine in production line
the status of both, the worker and
the production level. Our Visual
can fetch whatever is required
Along with the raw materials for Management provides assistance within 10 seconds. Also, if any
the garment, the right machines to the management teams and mechanic or technician removes
are also placed in line. In case is standardized across all our a tool from the board, they leave
any special machines have to factories, anywhere in the world a chip at its place which bears
be rented or leased for final like Mauritius and Madagascar,” their name and photograph.
production, the same are arranged says Ashok. This method ensures that the
in advance so that there is no tool is never lost and is traceable
Production floor…
delay during production. anywhere in the factory.
The Aquarelle factory has been
Cutting room… The maintenance room has a wall
set up in a U-shaped layout, which
of matrix, which is to keep track of
In terms of automation, factory provides easy flow of material
the maintenance of the machine
engineers have manufactured throughout the production
in each line of the sewing floor.
pintables for use in the cutting system. There are on an average
The company follows preventive
room, which is customized to their 380 machines running at any point
maintenance and uses the
requirements. “In case we put of time in the factory, which have a
matrix to ensure all machines are
in automated cutters, we would manual hanger system in place for
serviced at the correct time. All
material handling.
the lines are colour coded, where
Aquarelle also uses VAS green is to depict the machines
(Visual Analysis System) to that have been recently serviced,
aid the Industrial Engineering for which files are also maintained
Department. Praising the system, tracking the dates when the
Ashok states, “VAS is a very good machine was calibrated, or when
IE tool for training operators, it had a part changed. Yellow is
calculating SMV and standard used to depict the machines that
operations. We can see major need to be serviced and the red
improvement in the efficiency. ones are to show the machines
The system is a very useful that are currently not in use due
To handle correct placement of checks, critical parts
are re-bundled and cut using band knife tool to create SMV database to breakdown.
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