EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TOP CORNWALL & DEVON ROBERT ANDREWS 001_Top_10_Cornwall_and_Devon.indd 1 12/09/2017 12:50 Top 10 Cornwall The Top 10 of and Devon Everything Highlights Moments in History .....................38 Welcome to Cornwall Museums ......................................40 and Devon ...................................5 Churches, Abbeys and Exploring Cornwall and Devon .....6 Cathedrals ................................42 Cornwall and Devon Houses ..........................................44 Highlights ..................................10 Castles ..........................................46 Lanhydrock ...................................12 Writers ..........................................48 Eden Project .................................14 Gardens ........................................50 Dartmoor ......................................16 Beaches ........................................52 Falmouth and the Fal Estuary ....18 Walks ............................................54 Exeter ............................................22 Train Rides....................................56 Isles of Scilly .................................26 Children’s Attractions ..................58 Porthcurno and the Places to Eat ................................60 Minack Theatre.........................28 Pubs ..............................................62 St Ives ...........................................30 Shopping .......................................64 Penzance and St Michael’s Cornwall and Devon for Mount ........................................32 Free ...........................................66 Padstow ........................................34 Festivals ........................................68 002-003_Top_10_Cornwall_and_Devon.indd 2 12/09/2017 12:50 CONTENTS Cornwall and Devon Streetsmart Area by Area North Devon .................................72 Getting To and Around Cornwall South Devon .................................78 and Devon ...............................110 North Cornwall ............................88 Practical Information .................112 South Cornwall ............................94 Places to Stay .............................116 West Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly .....................100 General Index .............................120 Acknowledgments .....................126 Selected Town Index ..................128 The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy any material on third party websites, and of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in cannot guarantee that any website address the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and Front cover and spine Wheal Coates Tin Mine suggestions of our readers very highly. in St Agnes, Cornwall Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Back cover The picturesque cove and village of Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, Port Isaac, Cornwall London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email Title page Fishing boats in the harbour at [email protected] Clovelly, North Devon 002-003_Top_10_Cornwall_and_Devon.indd 3 12/09/2017 12:50 004-005_Top_10_Cornwall_and_Devon.indd 4 12/09/2017 12:50 Top 10 Cornwall and Devon ❮❮ 5 Welcome to Cornwall and Devon Rocky coves with white-sand beaches and turquoise waters. Mile-long strands where surfers skim Atlantic breakers. Bleak moorland with standing stones silhouetted against vast skies. Thatched cottages, flower gardens and cream teas. This corner of South West England has all this and more. With Eyewitness Top 10 Cornwall and Devon, it’s yours to explore. The counties of Cornwall and Devon are among the most popular holiday destinations in the UK. Visitors flock here for the spectacular stately homes, whitewashed fishing villages, compelling towns and cities, and traditional seaside resorts like Torquay and Ilfracombe. Wherever you go, the old-fashioned pleasures of rock-pooling, crabbing and building sandcastles fuse easily with more sophisticated pursuits. Food and drink here is fantastic, with cafés, pubs and restaurants ensuring the region retains its place at the forefront of the movement towards sustainable, local produce. There are vineyards, breweries, ice-cream makers, and even a chilli plantation. There is something magical about this far-flung peninsula, which has attracted and inspired generations of artists and writers. From Sherlock Holmes seeking diabolical hounds on Dartmoor and the riverside tales of The Wind in the Willows to Arthurian legend and the works of the St Ives and Newlyn artists, the landscapes of Cornwall and Devon have been imprinted on the world’s imagination. Whether you’re visiting for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide brings together the best of Cornwall and Devon, from foodie mecca Padstow to the secluded Isles of Scilly. The guide gives you tips throughout, such as ideas of what’s free and where to go with kids, plus seven easy-to-follow itineraries. Add inspiring photography and detailed maps, and you’ve got the essential pocket-sized travel companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Cornwall and Devon. Clockwise from top: Newquay beach; Eden Project; Dartmoor National Park; St Ives; Buckfast Abbey stained glass; surfboards; Prideaux Place 004-005_Top_10_Cornwall_and_Devon.indd 5 12/09/2017 12:50 6 ❯❯ Top 10 Cornwall and Devon Exploring Cornwall and Devon Cornwall and Devon are packed with magnificent beaches, picturesque villages and historic towns, to say nothing of the area’s vast moorlands, idyllic countryside and miles of coastal and rural paths. To help you make the most of your visit, here are some ideas for a two-day and seven-day break in the region. To see the Isles of Scilly when time is short, book speedboat transfers in advance. Gyllyngvase is one of the region’s most popular beaches, with gently shelving sands and rock pools at low tide. ExEexteetrer GGrimrimspsopuonudnd CaCtahtehderdarlal PaPdasdtsotwow WWidiedceocmombeb-ein-i-n- WWataetregragtaet eB aByay CViaCVnmiaenmyeealye rVald arVdlalellyey DDaratrmtmeeetet thteh-eM-Moooror NNewewquqauyay LaLnahnyhdyrdorcokck DDEEVVOONN EdEedne nP rPorjoejcetct CCOORRNNWWAALLLL StS Itv Ievses 0 0k ikloilmometeretrses2020 LaLnadn’ds ’Es nEdnd PePneznaznacnece 0 0m mileilses 2020 AiArpiroprotrt StS Mt Micihcaheale’sl’s BIsrBIylsrhTeylrehTeserres seocrs oocfo fS SSctS icMtl iMlalylraytrinti’ns’s FLIFGLIHGMTHMiTn iPan oPcarkoct rkTht hcThuehcaruentarronte,roe, MMoMuoMsuoesuohenuohtnloetle SeSee Fea Flamlmouotuht mhK maepayp Two-day itinerary BOBAOTAT StS Mt Marayr’ys’s Seven-day itinerary AFTERNOON Two Days in Falmouth From St Mawes, follow the path along the banks of the River Fal to the Day 1 subtropical gardens of the church MORNING of St-Just-in-Roseland (see p43). Start with the National Maritime Museum (see p19), then head up past Pendennis Castle (see p19) to Seven Days in Devon sandy Gyllyngvase Beach (see p19). and Cornwall AFTERNOON Take a pleasure boat trip up the Day 1 River Helford, or make the short Explore magnificent Exeter Cathedral drive to Helford Passage (see p104) (see pp24–5), with its gloriously intri- for lunch at the Ferry Boat Inn (see cate Gothic façade and breathtaking p106). It’s then just a five-minute fan-vaulting, then drive to the idyllic drive to magnificent Trebah (see p18). Dartmoor village of Widecombe-in- the-Moor (see p16) for lunch. For Day 2 some more atmosp heric moorland MORNING scenery, visit the evocative Bronze Visit Falmouth Art Gallery (see p19), Age village of Grimspound (see p17), then browse the antique shops then head to pretty Dartmeet (see before catching a ferry to St Mawes p17) at the meeting point of the (see p19) for a fish and chip lunch. East and West Dart rivers. 006-007_Top_10_Cornwall_and_Devon.indd 6 12/09/2017 12:50 Exploring Cornwall and Devon ❮❮ 7 Falmouth St-Just-in-Roseland beaches of Gyllyngvase, Swanpool and Falmouth Art Gallery BOAT River Fal MaSwtes McCaoafnéet nainpnuoder a tih ns,lw asintmodp itpfo it nhsgep efwonerda latuh ncecorhu is p a lgte oa oo fd . National Maritime hours at lush Trebah (see p18). Drive Museum Pendennis Castle to Penzance to see St Michael’s Gyllyngvase Beach Mount (see pp32–3) at suns et, then SMt oMuincthael’s Swanpool Beach head to the idyllic fishi ng village of Mousehole (see p33) for dinner. Helford Maenporth Beach Passage Day 5 Trebah 0 km 2 Take a 15minute flight from Land’s HFeelrfroyr dB oRaivte Irnn 0 miles 2 End airport to the Isles of Scilly (see pp26–7). Transfer by speedboat to ExEexteetrer Tresco, explore the Tresco Abbey GGrimrimspsopuonudnd CaCtahtehderdarlal Garden (see p27), then stop for lunch PaPdasdtsotwow at the New Inn (see p106). Catch a ferry WWataetregragtaet eB aByay CViaCVnmiaenmyeealye rVald arVdlalellyey DDaratrmtmeeetet WthWtiehd-ieeMd-ceMoocomoorombreb-ein-i-n- aton sdp faorlsloewly tinhhea cboitaesdt Bparythh etor (Hseeell pB2a6y), NNewewquqauyay LaLnahnyhdyrdorcokck with its Atlantic breakers. Stay over DDEEVVOONN night here or return to Tresco. EdEedne nP rPorjoejcetct Day 6 CCOORRNNWWAALLLL StS Itv Ievses Take a boat to St Martin’s (see pp26–7) 0 0k ikloilmometeretrses2020 and snorkel with seals or walk the LaLnadn’ds ’Es nEdnd PePneznaznacnece 0 0m mileilses 2020 sandy beaches, then catch a boat AiArpiroprotrt to St Mary’s for lunch with a view BIsrBIylsrhTeylrehTeserres seocrs oocfo fS SSctS icMtl iMlalylraytrinti’ns’s FLIFGLIHGMTHMiTn iPan oPcarkoct rkTht hcThuehcaruentarronte,roe, MMoSMuotSMsu oMetsu ohMeinuochithnloceathleeale’sl’s SeSee Fea Flamlmouotuht mhK maepayp DDppra1iv2ye– 1t2o3 )V, ifcotro rai afans Lcainnahtiyndgr oincski g(shete Mashtu iJpsuweluireemtc’s k( s Gfieanerd dps2e 6an)t (btsheeefeo Iprse1l e0r7se) to.u Sfr Sneeicni lgly Two-day itinerary into life in a country house, then move to Land’s End. BOBAOTAT StS Mt Marayr’ys’s Seven-day itinerary on to the Eden Project (see pp14–15). After lunch in one of its cafés, devote Day 7 the afternoon to the vast Rainforest Drive to the white sands of Porthcurno and Mediterranean biomes. and see the Minack Theatre (see pp28– 9), an openair amphitheatre carved Day 3 into the granite cliffs. Head to St Ives Drive to the Camel Valley Vineyard (see pp30–31) to see the painti ngs (see p89), where you can taste and and sculptures held at the Tate and buy fant astic wines. Head on to the other galleries. Dine at the Pedn fishing village of Padstow (see pp34– Olva (see p106), a hotel restaur ant 35), Cornwall’s most famous foodie perched between the two beaches. destination, and perhaps treat your self to a seafood banquet at Rick Stein’s flagship Seafood Restaurant. After lunch, follow the coast road to Newquay (see p90), with its dramatic cliffs and sweeping sands, making a stop at the surfer’s haven, Watergate Bay (see p52). Drive on to Falmouth. Day 4 Get a taste of Falmouth (see pp18–19) and Cornwall’s seafaring past at the National Maritime Museum (see p19), Hewn into the cliffs, Minack Theatre then follow the coastal route past the provides a stunning natural backdrop. 006-007_Top_10_Cornwall_and_Devon.indd 7 12/09/2017 12:50 Top 10 Cornwall and Devon Highlights Exeter Cathedral’s magnificent rib-vaulted nave 008-009_Top_10_Cornwall_and_Devon.indd 8 12/09/2017 12:50