Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering) (Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering) PDF
Preview Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering) (Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering)
THEORY AND APPLICATIONS OF OCEAN SURFACE WAVES Part 1: Linear Aspects ADVANCED SERIES ON OCEAN ENGINEERING Series Editor-in-Chief Philip L-F Liu (Cornell University) Vol. 9 Offshore Structure Modeling by Subrata K. Chakrabarti (Chicago Bridge & Iron Technical Services Co., USA) Vol. 10 Water Waves Generated by Underwater Explosion by Bernard Le Méhauté and Shen Wang (Univ. Miami) Vol. 11 Ocean Surface Waves; Their Physics and Prediction by Stanislaw R Massel (Australian Inst. of Marine Sci) Vol. 12 Hydrodynamics Around Cylindrical Structures by B Mutlu Sumer and Jørgen Fredsøe (Tech. Univ. of Denmark) Vol. 13 Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms Part I — Linear Wave Propagation by Maarten W Dingemans (Delft Hydraulics) Part II — Non-linear Wave Propagation by Maarten W Dingemans (Delft Hydraulics) Vol. 14 Coastal Stabilization by Richard Silvester and John R C Hsu (The Univ. of Western Australia) Vol. 15 Random Seas and Design of Maritime Structures (2nd Edition) by Yoshimi Goda (Yokohama National University) Vol. 16 Introduction to Coastal Engineering and Management by J William Kamphuis (Queen’s Univ.) Vol. 17 The Mechanics of Scour in the Marine Environment by B Mutlu Sumer and Jørgen Fredsøe (Tech. Univ. of Denmark) Vol. 18 Beach Nourishment: Theory and Practice by Robert G. Dean (Univ. Florida) Vol. 19 Saving America’s Beaches: The Causes of and Solutions to Beach Erosion by Scott L. Douglass (Univ. South Alabama) Vol. 20 The Theory and Practice of Hydrodynamics and Vibration by Subrata K. Chakrabarti (Offshore Structure Analysis, Inc., Illinois, USA) Vol. 21 Waves and Wave Forces on Coastal and Ocean Structures by Robert T. Hudspeth (Oregon State Univ., USA) Vol. 22 The Dynamics of Marine Craft: Maneuvering and Seakeeping by Edward M. Lewandowski (Computer Sciences Corporation, USA) Vol. 23 Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves Part 1: Linear Aspects Part 2: Nonlinear Aspects by Chiang C. Mei (Massachusetts Inst. of Technology, USA), Michael Stiassnie (Technion–Israel Inst. of Technology, Israel) and Dick K. P. Yue (Massachusetts Inst. of Technology, USA) Vol. 24 Introduction to Nearshore Hydrodynamics by Ib A. Svendsen (Univ. of Delaware, USA) Adv Series on Ocean Engineering.pmd 1 6/22/2005, 2:08 PM Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering — Volume 23 THEORY AND APPLICATIONS OF OCEAN SURFACE WAVES Part 1: Linear Aspects Chiang C. Mei Ford Professor of Engineering Massachusetts Institute of Technology, USA Michael Stiassnie David Hacohen and Hillel Dan Professor of Civil Engineering Technion–Israel Institute of Technology, Israel Dick K.-P. Yue Professor of Mechanical and Ocean Engineering Massachusetts Institute of Technology, USA WeWorld Scientific NEW JERSEY · LONDON Q SINGAPORE · BEIJING · SHANGHAI · HONG KONG · TAIPEI · CHENNAI Published by World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd. 5 Toh Tuck Link, Singapore 596224 USA office: 27 Warren Street, Suite 401-402, Hackensack, NJ 07601 UK office: 57 Shelton Street, Covent Garden, London WC2H 9HE British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. THEORY AND APPLICATIONS OF OCEAN SURFACE WAVES Part 1: Linear Aspects Copyright © 2005 by World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd. All rights reserved. This book, or parts thereof, may not be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage and retrieval system now known or to be invented, without written permission from the Publisher. For photocopying of material in this volume, please pay a copying fee through the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, USA. In this case permission to photocopy is not required from the publisher. ISBN 981-238-893-1 — Set ISBN 981-238-894-X (pbk)— Set ISBN 981-256-156-0 — Part 1 ISBN 981-256-157-9 (pbk) — Part 1 ISBN 981-256-158-7 — Part 2 ISBN 981-256-159-5 (pbk) — Part 2 Printed in Singapore. June21,2005 16:57 TheoryandApplications ofOceanSurfaceWaves bk04-002 To: Caroline Mei, Hadassa Stiassnie and Eva Yue v This page intentionally left blank June21,2005 16:57 TheoryandApplications ofOceanSurfaceWaves bk04-002 Preface to the Expanded Edition ThisisPartOneoftheexpandededitionofApplied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves by CCM first published twenty two years ago by Wiley- Interscience. A corrected version was later published by World Scientific without essential changes. During the past two decades, many theoreti- cal advances have been made by researchers throughout the world. Great strides have been made in analytical and numerical treatments for accu- rate predictions as well as physical understanding. In this new edition, the authors have added considerable new materials, hence the division to two separate parts. PartOneisrestrictedtothelinearaspects. Whilenearlyallthematieri- als in the first edition are kept, many new exercises are added. A major change is the addition of Chapter 7 on the multiple scattering by many scattererson the seabed. Introductory aspects of Braggresonance by peri- odic bars are first discussed. Important to coastal geomorphology, a com- plete understanding of longshore bars requires quantitative understanding ofboththecauseandtheeffect;itturnsoutthatwavesandbarsaffecteach otherincomplicatedways. Theformationandevolutionofsandbarsunder waves is, however, a very slow process and involves the highly empirical science ofsediment transport;we only discuss the linearizedeffects of rigid barsonthe waveclimate. Overamuchlargerscaleofthe continentalshelf, bathymetric variations can be very irregular. Therefore we also present a new theory of the effects of scattering by random depth fluctuations. It is shownthattheaccumulationofincoherentscatteringoveranextendedarea resultsinenergyremovalfromtheaveragedmotionwhichiscoherent. This physics is related to the phenomenon of Anderson localization in quantum physics. vii June21,2005 16:57 TheoryandApplications ofOceanSurfaceWaves bk04-002 viii Preface to the Expanded Edition In Chapter 8 on the dynamics of floating bodies, we have included a sectiononthetrappedmodesofthemobilegatesdesignedforVenicelagoon, as a current application in coastal engineering. The science of water waves has always been enriched by the use of mathematicaltools. Inorderthat a readerwith only some familiarity with advanced calculus can make effective use of this book, we have continued the style of the previous edition by shunning the phrase “it can be shown that...”. Often the mathematical steps of derivation are given in consid- erable detail. More advanced tools such as the techniques of asymptotic analysis are explained in the text. To highlight our objectives of bridging theory and applications, the title of this book has been changed. Chiang C. Mei, Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA Michael Stiassnie, Haifa, Israel Dick K.-P. Yue, Cambridge, Massachusetts,USA June21,2005 16:57 TheoryandApplications ofOceanSurfaceWaves bk04-002 Preface to the First Edition A substantial growth of knowledge in the dynamics of ocean surface waves has been witnessed over the past 20 years. While many advances have been stimulated by purely scientific inquiry in geophysics, the pace of progress has also been quickened by the increase in large engineering projects both offshore and along the coast. A major construction project now demands not only careful estimates of wave conditions near the site but also reliable predictions of the effects on and of the construction itself. Withaviewtobringingtogetherscientificandengineeringaspectsofocean waves, educational and research programs have naturally been established in a number of universities and industries. Thisbookistheoutgrowthofmylecturenotesforatwo-semestercourse taught at M.I.T. since 1974 to graduate students in civil and ocean engi- neering,withoccasionalparticipantsfromphysicaloceanography. Theaim ofthebookistopresentselectedtheoreticaltopicsonocean-wavedynamics, includingbasicprinciplesandapplicationsincoastalandoffshoreengineer- ing,allfromthedeterministicpointofview. Thebulkofthematerialdeals with the linearized theory which has been well developed in the research literature. The inviscid linearized theory is covered in Chapters One to Five and again in Eight. Frictional effects caused directly or indirectly by viscosity are treated in Chapters Six, Nine, and Ten. A special effect of breaking waves on beaches is examined in Chapter Eleven. Chapters Ten and Eleven focus on the secondary effects of nonlinearity. The cases where nonlinearity is of primary importance are the subjects of Chapters Twelve and Thirteen, for shallow and deep waters, respectively. The last chapter (Fourteen) is on wave-induced stresses in a porous but deformable seabed, which is a problem vital to offshore engineering. In the construction of a gravityplatform, the costofthe foundationalone canbe ashigh as40%of ix
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