ebook img

The Rough Guide to Andalucia, 6th Edition (Rough Guide Travel Guides) PDF

656 Pages·2009·16.56 MB·English
Save to my drive
Quick download
Download
Most books are stored in the elastic cloud where traffic is expensive. For this reason, we have a limit on daily download.

Preview The Rough Guide to Andalucia, 6th Edition (Rough Guide Travel Guides)

J>;HEK=>=K?:;je 6cYVajX†V HEK=>=K?:;I 7D:7BK9ß7 97IJ?BB7#B7C7D9>7 ;NJH;C7:KH7 8‹gYdWV ?V‚c HZk^aaZ =jZakV <gVcVYV / 6abZg†V ?ZgZo B{aV\V B:9>I:GG6C:6C 8{Y^o H:6 6IA6CI>8 D8:6C <^WgVaiVg B{aV\VVcY8{Y^o HZk^aaZVcY=jZakV LN 8‹gYdWVVcY?V‚c BDGD88D <gVcVYVVcY6abZg†V About this book Rough Guides are designed to be good to read and easy to use. The book is divided into the following sections, and you should be able to find whatever you need in one of them. The introductory Yebekhi[Yj_ed is designed to give you a feel for 6cYVajX†V, suggesting when to go and what not to miss, and includes a full list of contents. Then comes basics, for pre-departure information and other practicalities. The ]k_Z[ chapters cover 6cYVajX†V in depth, each starting with a highlights panel, introduction and a map to help you plan your route. The Yedj[nji section fills you in on history, flamenco and books, while individual Yebekhi[Yj_edi introduce Andalucian cuisine, Moorish architecture and Semana Santa. The book concludes with all the icWbbfh_dj, including details of how to send in updates and corrections, and a comprehensive _dZ[n. This sixth edition published May 2009. The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to Andalucía, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide. CKH9?7 US$19.99 CAN$22.99 I S B N 978-1-84836-037-2 5 1 9 9 9 9 7 8 1 8 4 8 3 6 0 3 7 2 EDGIJ<6A The Rough Guide to Andalucía written and researched by Geoff Garvey and Mark Ellingham with additional contributions by Pam Lalonde, Pau Sandham and Chris Stewart NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI www.roughguides.com Andalucia color Intro&TNTM secti1 1 12/16/08 3:44:07 PM Andalucia color Intro&TNTM secti2 2 12/16/08 3:44:15 PM Contents Colour section 1 Contexts 571 Introduction ............................... 4 History ................................... 573 Where to go ............................... 9 Flamenco ............................... 591 When to go .............................. 12 Books .................................... 598 Things not to miss ................... 15 Language 613 Basics 25 Spanish.................................. 615 Getting there ........................... 27 Food and drink ...................... 617 Getting around......................... 33 Glossary................................. 623 Accommodation....................... 38 Food and drink ........................ 41 Small print & Index 627 The media ................................ 47 Festivals................................... 49 Andalucian cuisine Bullfights.................................. 52 colour section Football.................................... 55 following p.120 Travelling with children............. 56 Travel essentials ...................... 57 Semana Santa colour section Guide 65 following p.248 1 Málaga and Cádiz ............... 67 2 Seville and Huelva............. 243 cMooloourris she Actniodna lucía 3 Córdoba and Jaén ............ 371 following p.472 4 Granada and Almería ........ 463 3 왗왗 Osborne bull, Cádiz province 왗 Street, Almonaster La Real Andalucia color Intro&TNTM secti3 3 12/16/08 3:44:20 PM | CONTENTS | Introduction to Andalucía Andalucía is the southernmost territory of Spain and the part of the Iberian peninsula that is most quintessentially Spanish. The popular image of Spain as a land of bullfights, flamenco, sherry and ruined castles derives from this spectacularly beautiful region. The influences that have washed over Andalucía since the first paintings were etched on cave walls here more than 25,000 years ago are many – Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Visigoths and Vandals all came and left their mark. And the most influential invaders of all, the Moors, who ruled the region for seven centuries and named it al-Andalus, have left an enduring imprint on Andalucian culture and customs. The heartland of Andalucía is the fertile valley of the mighty Río Guadalquivir, fowing across the region from its source in the Cazorla mountains in the northeast through the magnifcent cities of Córdoba and Seville, before draining into the marshes and wetlands of the Doñana National Park and the Gulf of Cádiz. North of this great artery rise the undulating hills of the Sierra Morena, from where was gouged the mineral wealth – silver, lead and tin – sought by successive waves of invaders from Phoenicians to Romans. The Moors, who arrived in the eighth century, were more interested in harvesting Andalucía’s natural wealth and turned the region into an orchard rich in olives, citrus fruits, almonds, 4 safron, fgs and vines – still the major products of the land today. In 1492 the Christian reconquest, after centuries of struggle, fnally succeeded in Andalucia color Intro&TNTM secti4 4 12/16/08 3:44:23 PM | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO wresting Spain from its Moorish Fact file occupiers, the victors symbolically planting their fags on the towers • Andalucía’s land area of 90,000 of the Alhambra, the emblematic square kilometres is about the monument of Andalucía. size of Ireland or Indiana. With a population of seven million, it The Moorish legacy is the most is the second largest of Spain’s striking feature of Andalucía today, seventeen autonomous regions, not only in the dazzling historical with its own administration and monuments such as those of Seville, parliament based in the regional Córdoba and Granada but also in capital, Seville. the whitewashed houses of many of • Physically, Andalucía is a land of stark contrasts. To the west its smaller medieval towns such as the dunes and wetlands of the Ronda or the fat-roofed villages of Coto de Doñana National Park Las Alpujarras. The Moorish love of comprise the largest roadless water is to be seen in the pleasure area in western Europe, whilst in gardens of the Alhambra, and the the east the province of Almería has Europe’s only desert. The typical Andalucian patio – tiled province of Granada has the plant-bedecked courtyards often Iberian peninsula’s highest with a central fountain – is another peak, the 3483m Mulhacén. Arab legacy as are the ubiquitous • Andalucía’s economy is based wrought-iron window grilles which on tourism and agriculture, lend character to any village street. the main products of which The dances and music of famenco, – sherry, olive oil and jamón serrano (cured ham) – are prized throughout Spain. • Despite its sunny image Andalucía contains an area with the highest rainfall on the Spanish peninsula, the natural park of Grazalema. • Love it or hate it, Andalucía is devoted to the bullfight. This multi-billion euro business employs thousands of workers both in the rings and on the ranches where the fearsome toro bravo, a beast descended from an ancient species of fighting bull, is raised. In the poverty- ridden backstreets of Seville and Málaga, the route to fame in the corrida is a fabulous temptation for young men (and sometimes women) and big name toreros 5 are idolized and wealthy. Andalucia color Intro&TNTM secti5 5 12/16/08 3:44:27 PM | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO 왖 Feria de Córdoba #FMBMDÈ[BS & 9 5 3 & . " % 6 3 " 4BOUB )JOPKPTB &VGFNJB EFM%VRVF ;BGSB 1P[PCMBODP 1F×BSSPZB 1VFCMPOVFWP #FMNF[ 'VFOUF 0CFKVOB &TQJFM &ODJOBTPMB 10356("- $ » 3 % 0 # " "MBOJT "SPDIF +BCVHP &M3FBM $B[BMMBEFMB4JFSSB $ØSEPCB "MNPOBTUFS "SBDFOB EFMB+BSB MB3FBM 4UB#BSCBSB .JOBTEF EF$BTBT 3JPUJOUP /FSWB 5IBSTJT -PSB 7BMWFSEFEFM$BNJOP EFM3ÓP ²DJKB -B1BMN"B $BSNPOB ) 6 & - 7 " EFM$POEBEP /JFCMB 4 & 7 * - - & 4FWJMMF &TUFQB "ZBNPOUF "MNPOUF )VFMWB 0TVOB 7JMB 1VOUB .B[BHØO &M3PDÓP 6USFSB P 3FBM 6NCSÓB .PSØOEF MB'SPOUFSB 4BOMÞDBSEF#BSSBNFEB "SDPTEFMB'SPOUFSB ;BIBSB . « - " ( " 3POEB $IJQJPOB +FSF[ $PÓO $ « % * ; " 5 - " / 5 * $ 1VFSUPEF4UB.BSJB "MDBMÈ & EFMPT (BVDÓO $ÈEJ[ .FEJOB (B[VMFT 4JEPOJB $BTBSFT .BSCFMMB 'VFOHJSPMB 0 $ & " / +JNFOBEF $IJDMBOB &TUFQPOB MB'SPOUFSB / $POJM 7FKFSEF 4BO3PRVF MB'SPOUFSB "MHFDJSBT (JCSBMUBS 5BSJGB LN 5BOHJFS $FVUB .030$$0 $BOBSZ*TMBOET whilst probably not of Moorish origin, display the soul of Andalucía and can be an electrifying spectacle when dancers in brilliantly coloured dresses drill their heels into the foorboards in a frenzy of emotion or, in cante jondo (deep song), turn the art form into a blues-style lament. The Muslim infuence on speech and vocabulary, a stoical fatalism in the face of adversity, and an obsession with the drama of death – publicly displayed in the spectacle of the bullfght – are also facets of the modern Andalucian 6 character. Contrastingly, the andaluzes also love nothing more than a party, Andalucia color Intro&TNTM secti6 6 12/16/08 3:44:29 PM / B U T F E / P $ B M / / P U E F - V / " % P [ / × B /0 O B / /& & | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO 'BSP R W V & J 1 " " B S " M J / "/ E "& " * 4 V ( B " /*7 " 5 6 3 & R " M B E ( B V 0 0 - $ P T U B E F M 4 P M " 3 SJ W "& J V " 5 4 * 4 1 0 . "& $ "1& - % .BESJE "MCBDFUF " - # " $ & 5 & $ " 4 5 * - - " - " . " / $ ) " / -B$BSPMJOB 4FHVSBEF )PSOPT MB4JFSSB #B×PTEFMB&ODJOB #BJMÏO -JOBSFT "OEÞKBS 4BCJPUF .POUPSP #BF[B ÁCFEB 1VFCMBEF $B[PSMB %PO'BESJRVF . 6 3 $ * " )VÏTDBS + " ² / (BMFSB .BSUPT +BÏO 0SDF 7ÏMF[ #BFOB 3VCJP -PSDB #B[B $BCSB ;VIFSPT )VÏSDBM0WFSB 1SJFHP ( 3 " / " % " 1VSDIFOB 3VUF .POUFGSÓP (VBEJY " - . & 3 ¶ " -B$"BMBIPSSB * .PKÈDBS % (SBOBEB & " "SDIJEPOB 4PSCBT 5BCFSOBT $BSCPOBSBT "OUFRVFSB 1FSJBOB M"BMI(BSNBOBBEFB -BOKBSØO5SFWÏMF[ 6HJKBS -"BOVEKBSBEYF /ÓKBS $PMNFOBS $ÈEJBS "MNFSÓB -BT/FHSBT 7ÏMF[ »SHJWB 5PSWJTDPO .ÈMBHB 'SJHJMJBOB #FSKB .PUSJM 3PRVFUBT 4BO+PTÏ .ÈMBHB EF.BS P 5PSSFNPMJOPT .FUSFT . & % * 5 & 3 3 " / & " / 4 & " .FMJMMB .FMJMMB and the colour and sheer energy of the region’s countless and legendary festas – always in traditional famenco costume worn with pride – make them among the most exciting in the world. The romerías, wild and semi-religious pilgrimages to honour local saints at country shrines, are yet another excuse for a jamboree. Despite the region’s abundant natural wealth, poverty is widespread, a legacy of the repressive latifundia landholding system of large estates with absentee landlords. The Christian monarchs who ousted the Moorish 7 Andalucia color Intro&TNTM secti7 7 12/16/08 3:44:30 PM " / 4 $ " " "ESB "MCV×PM $BTUFMMEF'FSSP 4BMPCSF×B "MNV×FDBS /FSKB 5PSSPY 5PSSFEFM.BS 3JODØOEFMB7JDUPSJB " / / "& / | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO .VSDJB"MJDBOUF / " % & $" ;0 3-" / 3 "& " 3 / J W J & S "& M / R V 4 * "& B E B B T Ó B ( V " " " MQV S / S "& M N F S "/ / T B K "& P Q J B 5 S T U P $ E F " 3 & 3 7 3 & " - B "& T U M B D B farmers doled out the conquered land to the Church, the military orders and individual nobles. These new proprietors often had little interest in the land nor personal contact with those who worked their estates, often leaving an overseer in charge, and an atmosphere of resentment built up towards the wretched pay and miserable conditions that this system entailed. It is perhaps not surprising that many inhabitants emigrated to fnd work in northern Spain or abroad, or that anarchism found many converts among the desperate braceros (farmhands) of Andalucía before the Spanish Civil War. Two percent of the landowners still possess ffty percent of the land today, and in the 1960s alone a million Andalucians left their native region to seek a better life elsewhere. Whilst life for many in the countryside remains hard, new industries, particularly tourism, have had a major impact on the region’s economy. Apart from the petrochemical industry around Algeciras, mining in Huelva and aircraft manufacture in Sevilla, Andalucía has little heavy industry and those not employed in agriculture are usually working in fshing or tourism. One growth industry of recent years is servicing the population of mainly northern European emigrants who have come to the south of Spain to live, retire or do business. Now numbering close to half of a million, these expatriates have funded much building and development particularly along 8 the coastal strip of the Costa del Sol, earning this zone its new nickname, the “California of Spain”. Andalucia color Intro&TNTM secti8 8 12/16/08 3:44:37 PM 왔 Alcázar, Córdoba | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO

See more

The list of books you might like

Most books are stored in the elastic cloud where traffic is expensive. For this reason, we have a limit on daily download.