The Cook book L i br a r y Anne Willan with Mark Cherniavsky and kyri claflin Four Centuries of the Cooks, Writers, and Recipes That Made the Modern Cookbook University of California Press Berkeley Los Angeles London California Studies in Food and Culture Darra Goldstein, Editor The publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous support of the Humanities Endowment Fund of the University of California Press Foundation. The publisher also gratefully acknowledges the generous support of the Director’s Circle of the University of California Press Foundation, whose members are: Clarence & Jacqueline Avant Nancy & Roger Boas Janelle Cavanagh & Dominic Walshe Earl & June Cheit Charles R. & Mary Anne Cooper Lloyd Cotsen John & Jo De Luca Carol & John Field Walter S. Gibson Prof. Mary-Jo DelVecchio Good & Prof. Byron Good Mrs. Charles Hine Edmund & Jeannie Kaufman Patricia & Robin Klaus Carole & Ted Krumland Diane Leslie David Littlejohn Thomas & Barbara Metcalf Margaret L. Pillsbury Ramsay Family Foundation Lucinda Reinold Tommi & Roger Robinson Barclay & Sharon Simpson Marc & Rowena Singer Peter J. & Chinami S. Stern The Cookbook Library The Cook book L i br a r y Anne Willan with Mark Cherniavsky and kyri claflin Four Centuries of the Cooks, Writers, and Recipes That Made the Modern Cookbook University of California Press Berkeley Los Angeles London This page intentionally left blank To Mark Cherniavsky Sine Quo Non Without Whom Nothing Contents Preface: Our Library ix Acknowledgments xii Introduction: The World in a Cookbook 1 Antiquity through the Middle Ages Feasts and Fasts / 12 cormarye Spicy Roast Pork 31 brouet de verjus et de poulaille Chicken in a Spiced Broth 32 poudre fine Fragrant Spice Powder 34 jance Sauce Jance 34 saupiquet Sour and Spicy Sauce for Fish 36 The Fifteenth Century The First Printed Cookbooks / 38 frictella ex salvia Sage Fritters with Saffron 65 dreyerley essen von einē visch Salmon in Disguise 66 ypocras Spiced Red Wine 69 zu maché ein krapffen teig Pigeon or Apple Dumplings 70 hericoq de mouton Spiced Lamb Stew 72 mon amy Fresh Cheese Mold 74 The Sixteenth Century Culinary Expansion / 76 potaccio alla italiana Spiced Stew with Chestnuts 116 pour faire gellée de coings Quince Jelly 117 pan’unto con prouatura fresca Fresh Cheese Crostini with Rose Water 119 per fare torta di carote & d’altre radiche & altre materie A Pie of Carrots and Other Roots 120 how to bake orenges Orange Dumplings 122 to make a sallet of all kinde of hearbes Green Salad with Herbs 124 pour faire tourtes geneues verdes Spinach and Cheese Tart with Mint 125 The Seventeenth Century 128 / Distinctive Voices 177 Spiced Chicken with Red Wine, Vinegar, and Bacon gallina morisca 179 Apple Pancakes to make apple pufs 180 Asparagus in Cream and Herbs asperges à la crême 181 Luxury Bread and Brioche pain benit & brioches 185 Apple Cider Syllabub an excellent syllabub 186 An English Hot Pot another hotchpot 188 Breast of Veal in Pastry to make a pasty of a breast of veal 190 Strawberry Ice per fare altr’ acqua di fravole The Eighteenth Century 192 / Enlightened Cooking 239 Fried Artichokes with Bacon and Cream artichaux frits 240 Rich Seed Cake with Caraway and Cinnamon a rich seed-cake, call’d the nun’s cake 242 Chocolate Cream with Lime chocolate cream 243 Yorkshire Christmas Pie of Five Birds a yorkshire christmas-pye 248 Spit-Roasted Fillet of Beef with Herbs and Mushrooms filet de boeuf à la gendarme 250 Lemon Sorbet, Juniper Sorbet, and Coffee Ice Cream des glaces 252 Sherry Potato Pie a rich potatoe pudding 254 Pot Roast of Beef with Red Wine to alamode a round The Early Nineteenth Century 256 / Celebrity Epicures 273 Pickled Lemons with Allspice, Ginger, and Mustard pickled lemons 274 Squash and Apple Pudding a crookneck or winter squash pudding 276 Spit-Roasted Quail with Bay Leaf cailles au laurier 278 Apple Soufflé soufflés parisiens aux pommes de reinette 281 Epilogue: Toward the Modern Cookbook 283 Afterword: Collecting Cookbooks, by Mark Cherniavsky 291 Notes 296 Bibliography 307 General Index 324 Recipe Index
Description: