testing protocol for wal-mart and sam`s club usa apparel products

79 Pages·2011·1.14 MB·English

by  Robert D. Mansfield

Walmart USA
Apparel Quality
Testing Manual

Issued May 2008
Revised February 2011

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WM USA Apparel Manual
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Table of Contents
1. Introduction ....................................................................................................... 6

1.1. Color Process .................................................................................................. 7

1.2. Pre-Production and Production Testing ........................................................ 7

1.3. In-Store Quality Audit ...................................................................................... 7

2. Regulatory Compliance ............................................................................ 8

3. Testing Process for Apparel .................................................................. 9

3.1. National Brands Testing Process ................................................................... 9

3.2. Supplier Tier Testing Process......................................................................... 9

3.3. In-Store Quality Audit Process ....................................................................... 11

3.4. Walmart Exception Orders .............................................................................. 12

3.5. Test Report Ratings ......................................................................................... 14

3.6. Defect Classification ........................................................................................ 14

3.7. Testing Turn-Around Time .............................................................................. 14

3.8. What to Submit ................................................................................................. 15

3.9. When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples .......................... 16

3.10. Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples ..................... 17

3.11. Flammability Test Process for Children’s Sleepwear ............................... 17

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4. Children’s Apparel .......................................................................................18

4.1. Private Brand Garments ..................................................................................18

4.2. Children’s Apparel Mechanical Hazards ........................................................19

4.3. Apparel Trim/Hardware ....................................................................................19

4.3.1 Press Fasteners .......................................................................................19
• Approved Press Fastener Suppliers

4.3.2 Zippers ......................................................................................................20
• Invisible Concealed Zippers
• Zipper Pulls
• Zipper Pull Attachments
• Approved Zipper Suppliers

4.3.3 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders ......................................................23
• Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers

4.3.4 D-Rings ....................................................................................................24

4.4. Draw st rings, Cords & Ties (Functional and Decorative) ................... 24

4.5. Adjustable Waistbands ....................................................................................25

4.6. Sashes & Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) ........................26

4.7. Belt s ........................................................................................................ 27

4.8. Bath Robes .......................................................................................................29

4.9. Fixed Bows .......................................................................................................29

4.10. Functional & Decorative Loops ................................................................30
• Belt Loops
• Back Neck (locker) Loops
• Hanger Loops
• Hammer Loops

4.11. Hats/Caps .....................................................................................................31
• Under-Chin Ties on Hats
• Under-Chin Straps on Hats

4.12. Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs ..............................................33

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4.13. Neck Ties ......................................................................................................33

4.14. Toggles & Toggle Buttons ..........................................................................33
• Toggles
• Toggle Buttons
• Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) / Spring Loaded Toggles
• Decorative Application
• Functional Application

4.15. Button and Buttonsew .................................................................................35
• Buttons
• Buttonsew

4.16. Hook & Loop Fastener Tape .......................................................................36

4.17. Thread Ends & Float Threads .....................................................................36

4.18. Decorative Trims & Embellishments ..........................................................37
• Appliqués & Embroidery
• Beads & Jewels
• Sequins
• Diamante (Rhinestones) & Metal Studs
• Pom-Poms & Fringe
• Fake (Faux) Fur
• Natural Feathers

4.19. Miscellaneous Requirements .....................................................................38

4.20. Polyvinyl Chloride in Children’s Bibs ........................................................38

5. Performance Specifications ................................................................... 39

5.1. General Requirements .....................................................................................39

5.2. Colorfastness Properties ................................................................................40

5.3. Woven Fabrics ..................................................................................................42
• Woven Natural Cellulosic
• Woven Man-made Cellulosic Origin
• Woven Man-made Synthetic
• Woven Silk, Wool, Animal Hair
• Denim
• Woven Pile Fabrics

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5.4. Knit Fabrics ......................................................................................................47
• Weft Knits
• Warp Knits
• Knit Undergarments
• Hosiery - Socks and Tights
• Sweaters

5.5. Leather/Suede Apparel ....................................................................................51

5.6. Accessories ......................................................................................................52
• Belts, Caps, Ear Muffs, Gloves, Hair Accessories, Hats, Mittens,
Neckties, Scarves, Ski Headbands, Ski Masks, Stocking Caps,
Suspenders and Pet Accessories

5.7. Products with Special Claims .........................................................................54

5.8. Zipper Performance Standards .......................................................................56

Appendix A ...........................................................................................................57
Defect Type Classifications

Appendix B ...........................................................................................................70
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process

Appendix C ...........................................................................................................71
Children’s Body Weight Tables

Appendix D ...........................................................................................................72
Material Adoption Process (MAP)

Appendix E ……………………………………………………………………………...75
Trim Suppliers

Appendix F ............................................................................................................78
Mill Blank Suppliers

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WALMART Stores, Inc.

1. INTRODUCTION
This Walmart Apparel manual specifies materials, construction, and test procedures that have
been developed by the Apparel Technical Team, various standards bodies, regulatory agencies,
and independent labs. The objective of the test program is to ensure that Walmart apparel meet
or exceed these performance standards as listed in this manual. Additionally suppliers must be
involved in-depth with the manufacturing processes of their products including Quality
Assurance, internal testing, operator training, in line inspection, root cause analysis of defects
and corrective actions taken in the factory to stop non compliant product at the source. An
increased focus on quality has been implemented at Walmart and we are committed to offering
only the best quality products to our customers. You as a supplier are expected to deliver these
defect free quality products and will be held accountable for allowing non-compliant product into
the supply chain.
This manual is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current
industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying. Irrespective
of whether the supplier meets the requirements set forth in this manual, suppliers are still
responsible for all aspects of the quality, safety and compliance of their merchandise. If you are
in doubt as to the applicability of any law, standard, or regulation that applies to products that
you intend to supply to Walmart, please seek advice from your legal counsel or Technical
Representative.

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1.1 Color Process
The Walmart color testing process is managed by Consumer Testing Laboratories (CTL) in
conjunction with Walmart Associates. The color manual is published in Retail Link at “Retail
Link > Site Map > CTL Documentation USA > Color” or at the following web address:
https://retaillink.wal-mart.com/rl_docs/adp/ENG/6F50B445F098422C938057168713F74C.pdf
The manual will guide you through our color approval process from substrate submission to Lab
Dip Electronic, Lab Dip, Shade Band Electronic, to Shade Band testing. Please refer to the
Walmart Apparel Color testing manual for all color approval questions.
NOTE: The color approval process is not connected to the Pre-production and Production testing
process. Color is only tested for color performance and not color matching during the Pre-
production and Production Testing process. This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing
facility for Pre-production Testing and/or Production Testing.
NOTE: In-store testing is does not police color matching. In-store testing only polices the color
performance and not the color matching / lab dips. This enables a Supplier to utilize either
testing facility for the Pre-production Testing and/or Production Testing.
NOTE: Color testing is done by CTL in either the Hong Kong Color Lab or the Bentonville Color
Lab. Pre-production Testing and/or Production Testing can be done in any geographic location
regardless of where the color is being approved.
1.2 Pre-Production and Production Testing
The purpose of Pre-Production testing is to assess performance against Walmart quality
standards before production so that problems can be addressed and revised before proceeding
to production. Pre-Production testing is required for all domestic and direct import product and
should be completed 60 days prior to ship date. A passing report is your approval to cut
garments and proceed to production.

Production testing is required for all items regardless of label or supplier. The test should be
performed at 10% completion of the production and 30 days before ship date. The purpose of
the test is to verify that the materials and workmanship used in production meet or exceeds the
Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to the Gold Seal sample.
Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3.

1.3 In-Store Quality Audit

This phase of testing confirms that the mass produced apparel items meet or exceed the
Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to production sample.
Only top quality items that pass testing will remain in store. Product that fails testing will be
subject to withdraw. Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3.

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2. REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
Walmart is committed to providing our customers with safe products that comply with all
appropriate regulations and standards. Walmart suppliers must comply with all laws, including
Federal, State, and Local laws as required under the Supplier Agreement. Walmart reserves the
right to monitor compliance through inspection, testing, or audits.
The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory and safety
requirements for apparel. There is zero tolerance for critical regulatory failures that are
discovered in our stores and non-compliant product will be withdrawn from the stores.
Walmart Product Safety and Compliance regulatory requirements can be accessed through
Retail Link filed under “Retail Link > Site Map > Product Safety and Compliance Library” or
at the following web address:
https://retaillink.wal-mart.com/rlFileUpload/main.aspx?topic=5&ukey=W4684
Suppliers should visit this site regularly to keep abreast of the latest changes and new Walmart
requirements. This site is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the
current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying.
Walmart does not provide legal advice to its suppliers. Suppliers should seek their own
legal counsel on how to comply with all laws applicable to their product.

For information on Product Safety & Compliance, please visit the following web sites:

› Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act
http://www.cpsc.gov/ABOUT/Cpsia/cpsia.html

› California Air Resource Board – Formaldehyde in Composite Wood Products
http://www.arb.ca.gov/toxics/compwood/compwood.htm

› Lacey Act
http://www.aphis.usda.gov/plant_health/lacey_act/index.shtml

› Questions
[email protected]
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3. Testing Process for Apparel

The purpose of this section of the Apparel Testing Manual is to outline the responsibilities of
Suppliers and the designated testing laboratory as it relates to the testing process itself. It also
defines testing processes for National Brands and Private Brands Suppliers.

This section details the Tiering system that looks at past testing history of suppliers and tiers
suppliers by that performance.

The remainder of this section outlines other commitments required of Suppliers and the testing
laboratory.

3.1 National Brands Testing Process

This section identifies testing process for Walmart National Brands and their testing protocols.

Note: The following testing process also applies to Licensed Merchandise.

• No Color Testing unless a Walmart CSI Color used
• Pre-production is mandatory for direct import suppliers and domestic suppliers.
• Production Testing is required for all styles
• In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly by the designated testing laboratory

National Brands Suppliers’ performance will be reviewed by Walmart bi-annually and additional
testing requirements may be applied to below average suppliers.

National Brands Pre-Production and Production test failures are sent by the test lab to the NY
Technical Team for resolution.

In-Store Critical Regulatory failures are sent by the test lab to the Walmart Compliance Team
and Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team.

In-Store Critical Regulatory High Sampling Retest (HSR) Failures will be sent to Walmart
Compliance. In-Store Critical Walmart High Sampling Retest Failures will be sent to the NY
Technical Team who will notify Compliance Department for Product withdrawal from stores.

Note: A second Production level test is required for all Children’s items which remain in
stores longer than 6 months.

3.2 Supplier Tier Testing Process

Supplier Tiering is not applicable to the testing program for Walmart Apparel. The previous
“tiering process” cannot be supported due to the following reasons / requirements:
1. Pre-production and Production Testing is now a requirement for all product shipping to
the stores for Walmart Apparel. Pre-production testing is an essential step in managing
the quality expectation and deliverable of our supplier base.
2. With the introduction of multiple 3rd party testing facilities, CTL and Bureau Veritas, turn
time of testing is the responsibility of the 3rd party testing facility.

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