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Specialist Yarn and Fabric Structures: Developments and Applications (Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles) PDF

382 Pages·2011·14.63 MB·English
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Specialist yarn and fabric structures © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing The Textile Institute is a unique organisation in textiles, clothing and footwear. Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has individual and corporate members in over 90 countries. The aim of the Institute is to facilitate learning, recognise achievement, reward excellence and disseminate information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries. Historically, The Textile Institute has published books of interest to its members and the textile industry. To maintain this policy, the Institute has entered into partnership with Woodhead Publishing Limited to ensure that Institute members and the textile industry continue to have access to high-calibre titles on textile science and technology. Most Woodhead titles on textiles are now published in collaboration with The Textile Institute. Through this arrangement, the Institute provides an Editorial Board that advises Woodhead on appropriate titles for future publication and suggests possible editors and authors for these books. Each book published under this arrangement carries the Institute’s logo. Woodhead books published in collaboration with The Textile Institute are offered to Textile Institute members at a substantial discount. These books, together with those published by The Textile Institute that are still in print, are offered on the Woodhead website at: www.woodheadpublishing.com . Textile Institute books still in print are also available directly from the Institute’s website at: www.textileinstitutebooks.com . A list of Woodhead books on textile science and technology, most of which have been published in collaboration with The Textile Institute, can be found towards the end of the contents pages. © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 123 Specialist yarn and fabric structures Developments and applications Edited by R. H. Gong Oxford Cambridge Philadelphia New Delhi © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited, 80 High Street, Sawston, Cambridge CB22 3HJ, UK www.woodheadpublishing.com Woodhead Publishing, 1518 Walnut Street, Suite 1100, Philadelphia, PA 19102-3406, USA Woodhead Publishing India Private Limited, G-2, Vardaan House, 7/28 Ansari Road, Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110002, India www.woodheadpublishingindia.com First published 2011, Woodhead Publishing Limited © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 The authors have asserted their moral rights. This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the authors and the publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials. Neither the authors nor the publisher, nor anyone else associated with this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book. Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfi lming and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from Woodhead Publishing Limited. The consent of Woodhead Publishing Limited does not extend to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for resale. Specifi c permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing Limited for such copying. Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identifi cation and explanation, without intent to infringe. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Library of Congress Control Number: 2011935506 ISBN 978-1-84569-757-0 (print) ISBN 978-0-85709-393-6 (online) ISSN 2042-0803 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (print) ISSN 2042-0811 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (online) The publisher’s policy is to use permanent paper from mills that operate a sustainable forestry policy, and which has been manufactured from pulp which is processed using acid-free and elemental chlorine-free practices. Furthermore, the publisher ensures that the text paper and cover board used have met acceptable environmental accreditation standards. Typeset by Refi neCatch Limited, Bungay, Suffolk Printed by TJI Digital, Padstow, Cornwall, UK © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 Contents Contributor contact details xi Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xiii 1 Compound yarns 1 T. C HEN , Soochow University, China 1.1 Introduction 1 1.2 Types of compound yarns 1 1.3 Production methods for compound yarns 5 1.4 Applications of compound yarns 13 1.5 Future trends in compound yarns 14 1.6 Sources of further information and advice 19 1.7 References 19 2 Developments in hybrid yarns 21 H. R. MA NKODI , M. S. University of Baroda, India 2.1 Introduction 21 2.2 Types of hybrid yarns and their development 22 2.3 Basic structures and properties of hybrid yarns 24 2.4 Production methods for hybrid yarns 26 2.5 Applications of hybrid yarns 49 2.6 Future trends in hybrid yarns 52 2.7 Acknowledgements 53 2.8 References 54 3 Developments in rope structures and technology 56 J. W. S. HE ARLE , University of Manchester, UK 3.1 Introduction 56 3.2 New fi bres 57 3.3 Laid ropes 59 3.4 Braided ropes 60 3.5 Low-twist ropes 63 v © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 vi Contents 3.6 Manufacturing technology 65 3.7 Terminations 69 3.8 Uses of ropes 71 3.9 Conclusions 74 3.10 References 74 4 Developments in fancy yarns 75 R. WR IGHT , Racheland Designs, UK 4.1 Introduction to fancy yarns 75 4.2 Historical development 76 4.3 Types of fancy yarns and their development 78 4.4 Production methods for fancy yarns 87 4.5 Applications for fancy yarns 104 4.6 Future trends in fancy yarns 106 4.7 Sources of further information and advice 107 4.8 Bibliography 108 5 Developments in 3D knitted structures 109 Z . GU O , Zhongyuan University of Technology, China 5.1 Introduction to 3D knitted structures 109 5.2 Multiaxial warp-knitted fabrics 109 5.3 Space fabrics (or sandwich fabrics) 112 5.4 Fully-fashioned 3D knitted fabrics (or near-net-shaped knitted fabrics) 116 5.5 Bibliography 116 6 Developments in leno-weave fabrics 118 Y. C HEN , Soochow University, China 6.1 Introduction to leno-weave fabrics 118 6.2 The structure of leno-weave fabrics 119 6.3 Fabrics with leno-weave 123 6.4 The production of leno-weave fabrics 125 6.5 Properties of leno-weave fabrics 133 6.6 Applications of leno-weave fabrics 134 6.7 Future trends in leno-weave fabrics 136 6.8 Sources of further information and advice 140 6.9 References 140 7 Developments in triaxial woven fabrics 141 T. T YLER , Consultant, UK 7.1 Introduction 141 7.2 Basic patterns 141 7.3 A history of triaxial woven fabrics 144 7.4 Classifi cation 148 © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 Contents vii 7.5 Variations 148 7.6 Properties 152 7.7 Advantages 153 7.8 Applications 154 7.9 Aesthetics 157 7.10 Manufacturing 158 7.11 Future trends 160 7.12 Sources of further information and advice 161 7.13 References 161 8 Interwoven fabrics and their applications 164 X. CH EN , University of Manchester, UK 8.1 Introduction 164 8.2 Structure and design 168 8.3 Properties and applications 185 8.4 Future trends 186 8.5 Sources of further information and advice 186 8.6 References 187 9 Pile carpets 188 G. H. C RAWSHAW , formerly of the IWS Interior Textiles Group, UK 9.1 Market background 188 9.2 Environmental considerations 190 9.3 Pile fi bres 192 9.4 Pile yarns 196 9.5 Tufting 198 9.6 Backing materials, back-coating and laminating 205 9.7 Wireloom weaving 207 9.8 Face-to-face weaving 208 9.9 Axminster weaving 211 9.10 Needling 213 9.11 Other methods of manufacture 214 9.12 Coloration 215 9.13 Chemical and other treatments 216 9.14 Textile sports surfaces 217 9.15 Sources of further information and advice 220 9.16 References 220 10 Developments in Jacquard woven fabrics 223 A. M. SE YAM , North Carolina State University, USA 10.1 Introduction to Jacquard woven fabrics 224 10.2 Jacquard construction 229 10.3 Converting artwork to woven Jacquard patterns 241 © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 viii Contents 10.4 Recent developments in Jacquard systems 242 10.5 Patterns in Jacquard woven fabrics 249 10.6 Applications of Jacquard woven fabrics 254 10.7 Relationship between structures and properties of Jacquard woven fabrics 257 10.8 Future trends in Jacquard woven fabrics 259 10.9 Sources of further information and advice 262 10.10 References 262 11 Developments in 3D nonwovens 264 R. H. GO NG , University of Manchester, UK 11.1 Introduction 264 11.2 High-bulk fl at nonwovens 266 11.3 Shaped 3D nonwovens 273 11.4 Future trends 284 11.5 References 284 12 Flocked fabrics and structures 287 Y. K. K IM , University of Massachusetts Dartmouth, USA 12.1 Introduction 287 12.2 The theory of fi ber coating 290 12.3 Flock fi bers and preparation 297 12.4 Flocking substrates 300 12.5 Adhesives for fl ocking 301 12.6 Flocking processes 303 12.7 Testing and quality assurance 308 12.8 New developments in the application of fl ocked fabrics and structures 311 12.9 Conclusions and future trends 314 12.10 Sources of further information and advice 315 12.11 Acknowledgements 315 12.12 References 316 13 Knotted fabrics 318 L. P HILPOTT , International Guild of Knot Tyers Pacifi c Americas branch, USA 13.1 Introduction 318 13.2 Types of knotted fabrics 321 13.3 Production methods for knotted fabrics 326 13.4 Applications for knotted fabrics 329 13.5 Future trends for knotted fabrics 331 13.6 Sources of further information and advice 331 13.7 References 332 © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 Contents ix 14 Developments in braided fabrics 333 P. PO TLURI and S. N AWAZ , University of Manchester, UK 14.1 Introduction 333 14.2 Braiding 334 14.3 Classifying braids 338 14.4 The geometry of the braided structure 344 14.5 Applications of braided fabrics 347 14.6 Future trends in braided fabrics 351 14.7 References 353 Index 355 © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011

Description:
The understanding of fabric structures is fundamental to the way textiles are designed, tested and manufactured. This book looks at the developments that have occurred in specialist yarn, weave and fabric structures.  Written by a team of international contributors, the text discusses the different
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