Table Of Content‘Go big or go home’
Yotam’s picnic sandwich
Feast
Supported by eC ocado
Issue No.227
Saturday 28 May 2022
cdi Gian
Thomasina Miers
Creamy beans
with grilled leeks
Georgina Hayden
Dumplings to
make with kids
Meera Sodha
Kimchi spaghetti
Fiona Beckett
The best new gins
Barbecued salads
Cabbage and brown
shrimp butter
Benjamina Ebuehi
Elderflower and
rhubarb traybake
Felicity Cloake
Baklava masterclass
Rachel Roddy
Sicilian spring
vegetable pasties
Kitchen aide
No-cook dinners
Grace Dent
‘Eat dinner, save the
planet, be a hero’
Yotam
Ottolenghi
There are two ways to do picnics,
I think. You can do the supermarket
sweep, of course, but that runs the risk
of everyone bringing the same thing
and you ending up with four quiches
and akilo of carrot sticks. The other
option is to go ridiculously large: divide
and conquer by asking each person to be
responsible for one thing - and for that
thing to be wonderfully supreme.
PHOTOGRAPHS (INCLUDING COVER): LOUISE HAGGER/THE GUARDIAN. FOOD STYLING: HANNA MILLER.
PROP STYLING: JENNIFER KAY. FOOD ASSISTANT: HOLLY MIDDLETON-JOSEPH. INSET: ALAMY
Prep 10 min
Cook 1hr15 min
Serves 4as part
of ameze
21 tbsp olive oil
2 banana shallots
(80g), peeled and
finely chopped
1 tbsp thyme leaves,
roughly chopped
3 garlic cloves,
peeled and crushed
Salt and black
pepper
1 tsp sherry or
white-wine vinegar
400g frozen peas,
defrosted
100g soft goat's
cheese
2 tsp finely grated
fresh horseradish,
plus extra to garnish
20ml lemon juice
(ie, from 1 lemon)
4 spring onions,
trimmed and thinly
sliced at an angle
5g mint leaves,
roughly chopped
(about 234 tbsp)
For the pickle
50g fresh ginger,
peeled
14 tsp finely grated
lemon zest
3 sprigs fresh thyme
60ml white-wine
vinegar
30g caster sugar
Cooking
this? Buy
ingredients
* at Ocado
[Os ta C]
eer
Horseradish and
pea dip with
pickled ginger
Serve this with crudités or crackers.
This will make more pickled ginger
than you need; store the excess in
an airtight container in the fridge,
to serve with rice or steamed fish.
For the pickle, thinly slice the ginger
(ideally on a mandoline), then stack
and cut into thin strips. Put these in
asmall pan with 250ml cold water
and a pinch of salt, and bring toa
boil. Simmer for three minutes, then
drain and put the ginger in a small,
clean jar with the lemon zest and
thyme. Pour the vinegar and sugar
into the same pan, bring to a boil,
stir until the sugar dissolves, then
pour into the jar. Leave to cool, then
seal and refrigerate.
Now for the dip. Put the oilina
nonstick saute pan on medium-high
heat, then add the shallots and saute,
stirring, for five minutes, until soft.
Add the thyme, garlic, a quarter-
teaspoon of salt and a good grind of
pepper, and cook for three to five
minutes, until fragrant. Stir in the
peas and vinegar, then take off the
heat and leave to cool.
Tip the mix into a food processor,
add the cheese, horseradish, lemon
juice and a quarter-teaspoon of salt,
and pulse to a coarse paste. Transfer
to a bowl (or plastic container, if
you're packing it up for a picnic).
Put two tablespoons of the ginger
and a tablespoon of its pickling
liquor in a small bowl, and stir in the
spring onions, mint, remaining
teaspoon and a half of oil and an
eighth of a teaspoon of salt. Spoon
this over the pea dip, grate more
horseradish on top and serve. >
———— rv) Vegetarian © Vegan cr) Gluten free @ Dairy free
‘reast| __@
Prep 20 min
Press 2hr+
Serves 8
1 sourdough loaf
(600g-700g)
1% tbsp English
mustard
1 tbsp runny honey
70g thinly sliced
salami
100g sliced gouda
2 buffalo mozzarella
balls, cut into 2
cm-thick slices and
patted dry (250g)
100g thinly sliced
mortadella
95ml olive oil
4 garlic cloves,
peeled and finely
chopped
2 tbsp za‘atar
8 anchovy fillets,
drained and finely
chopped
2 red chillies, seeds
and pith removed,
flesh finely chopped
2 shallots (80g),
peeled and cut into
thin rounds
200g pitted
nocellara olives,
drained and chopped
1x 450g jar red
peppers, drained,
patted dry and cut in
half (350g)
3 tbsp fine capers,
drained and chopped
(rinse first, if salted)
10g parsley leaves,
roughly chopped
(about 2% tbsp)
30g basil leaves,
roughly chopped
(about 5% tbsp)
Salt and black
pepper
Scan to
2 buy these
feed at Ocado
Go big or go home with this, my take
on the epic New Orleans sandwich.
If you’re eating it at home (that is,
close to an oven), skip the initial
toasting stage and instead put the
filled loaf in the oven for a perfectly
melting sandwich.
& [J Shop, chop.
Heat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/
gas 9. Cut off the top third of the
loaf lengthways: this will be the lid
later. Using your hands, hollow out
the loaf, carefully removing as much
of the soft crumb as possible (save
it to make breadcrumbs) while
leaving the crust intact. Put the
hollowed-out loaf and its lid
separately on an oven tray, bake for
three to five minutes, until crisp
and lightly golden on the inside,
then set aside.
Meanwhile, make the salsa. Put
50m oil in a small saucepan on a
medium heat and, once hot, add the
garlic and cook, stirring often, for
three minutes, until softened. Stir
in the za’atar and anchovies, then
take off the heat. Pour into a medium
bowl, leave to cool, then stir in the
chilli, shallots, olives, peppers,
capers, parsley, basil, a good grind
of pepper and a quarter-teaspoon
of salt.
Put the mustard and honey ina
small bowl with the remaining three
tablespoons of oil, and mix until
very smooth. Using a pastry brush,
spread the mustard mixture evenly
over the inside of the loaf and on
the underside of the lid.
Spoon two-thirds of the salsa into
the base of the loaf, and spread it
out evenly. Lay the salami on top,
followed in turn by the gouda,
mozzarella and mortadella, firmly
pressing in each new layer as you do
so. Spoon over the remaining salsa
and pop the lid on top.
Wrap the loaf tightly and put it
ona tray. Weigh it down witha
heavy wooden board (or a tray filled
with tinned food) and leave at room
temperature for two to three hours
(or put it in the fridge overnight).
Cut the loaf into thick slices and
serve at room temperature.
Prep 15 min
Cook 30 min
Makes 22
135g unsalted butter,
roughly cubed
1 tbsp vegetable oil
20g honey
3 eggs
130g golden caster
sugar
1 tsp vanilla bean
extract
100g glutinous rice
flour
60g tapioca flour
12 tsp baking
powder
Y, tsp salt
1 tsp finely grated
lime zest
For the yuzu icing
100g icing sugar
20ml yuzu juice (or
20ml mixed lime
and lemon juice)
1 tbsp crystallised
yuzu peel (or mixed
peel)
1 tsp finely grated
lime zest
flz7[E] Scanto
buy these
« ingredients
F at Ocado
Freshly baked madeleines are one
of life’s little pleasures, and make
a wonderful picnic treat. These
ones are a bit of a hybrid, and are
inspired by Japanese mochi, using
glutinous rice flour and tapioca
starch instead of plain flour. As well
as making them gluten-free, this
also gives them an irresistible,
ever-so-slightly chewy texture. The
batter can be made up to a day ahead.
Put the butter in a small saucepan
on a medium-high heat and cook,
whisking, for five minutes, until it
turns a deep amber and smells
nutty. Pour into a small bowl, whisk
in the vegetable oil and honey, and
set aside to cool slightly.
Put the eggs, sugar and vanilla in
astand mixer bowl with the paddle
attachment in place, then beat on
medium-high for two minutes, until
creamy. In a separate bowl, whisk
the rice flour, tapioca flour, baking
powder and salt, then add to the
bowl and work on low speed until
well combined. With the mixer still
on low, pour in the brown butter ina
steady stream, followed by the lime
zest, and mix to combine. Chill to
rest for at least an hour.
When you're ready to bake, heat
the oven to 190C (180C fan)/gas 6 and
butter a nonstick 12-hole madeleine
tin. Using a piping bag or teaspoon,
put about 25-30g madeleine mix
into each cavity, then bake for 10
minutes, until they are just set and
bounce back when poked with
a finger. While they’re hot, unmould
the madeleines and leave on a rack
while you make the icing.
In asmall bowl, mix the icing
sugar and yuzu juice until smooth.
Finely chop the crystallised yuzu,
put it in a second bowl, then mix
in the lime zest. Dip the narrow
scalloped end of each madeleine
in the icing, sprinkle over a little of
the peel mix and serve at once.
— ©
PHOTOGRAPH: YUKI SUGIURA/THE GUARDIAN. FOOD AND PROP STYLING: AYA NISHIMURA.
FOOD ASSISTANT: HANNA MILLER. INSET: GETTY IMAGES
Thomasina Miers
The new flexitarian
A bowl of warm white beans
screams comfort to me. | start by
gently poaching garlic in extra-virgin
olive oil until it smells fragrant, then add
the beans and whatever flavours I feel
like - chilli, herbs or something tangy,
such as capers. What I eat with my beans
depends on my mood: slow-cooked
rabbit, spatchcocked chicken, a whole
roast fish or griddled vegetables. The
salsa here makes a gutsy, fiery dressing
to accompany griddled leeks.
o 9
Prep 15 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4
4 large or 6 medium
leeks, cleaned and
cut in half across the
middle
3 tbsp extra-virgin
olive oil, plus a little
extra for brushing
4 garlic cloves,
peeled and sliced
2 x 400g tins butter
beans, drained and
rinsed
Salt and black
pepper
For the salsa
¥, red onion,
chopped
4 tbsp red-wine
vinegar
1red chilli
1 bunch mint
1 heaped tbsp capers
6 tbsp extra-virgin
olive oil
FAO] Cooking
gee. this? Buy
vies ingredients
ElFnts# at Ocado
White beans with
leeks and a caper
and mint salsa
Bring a deep pan of salted water to
a boil, then simmer the leek halves
for three to four minutes, until tender
to the core, but still holding their
shape. Remove and leave to cool.
Meanwhile, warm the oilina
medium pan over the lowest of
heats, add the garlic and cook
gently, stirring often, for five to
six minutes, until it just begins to
colour at the edges. Add the beans
and a splash of water, season,
then cook for five minutes, lightly
crushing a few beans against the
sides of the pan so they melt.
Start the sauce by tipping the
onion into a bowl and stirring in the
vinegar, then set aside to give the
onion time to relax in the vinegar.
Heat a griddle pan on a high
heat and, once it’s smoking, lay
the chilli in one corner. Brush the
cooked leeks with a little oil and
griddle them alongside the chilli,
turning them over after two or three
minutes, once they’re marked with
char lines. Transfer to a plate and
keep warm. Cook the chilli until it is
charred all over and tender.
Cut the stem off the chilli, then
roughly chop the flesh. Tear the
mint leaves from their stems, put
these on the board with the chilli
and capers, and chop the lot until
the mint is in tiny pieces. Scrape
into the onion bowl, season, then
stir in the oil. Taste the relish and
season with salt and more vinegar if
needed. (If you have a spare lemon
or orange, you could add the zest.)
Heat the beans through and
divide between warmed plates.
Using tongs, arrange the leeks on
top, then spoon over the salsa and
serve immediately.
The simple flex
These beans work as a midweek
meal in their own right, but they
would also be delicious as a side for
a free-range pork or lamb chop.
‘reast| __@
Georgina Hayden
Little hands,
light work
Iam a parenting cliche -[ can't tell
you how many phrases come out of my
mouth that make me sound like my
own parents. I am sure I'm not the only
one who was told not to ‘play with your
food’, but that is one phrase I won't be
repeating, because I want my girls to
understand and be curious about the
ingredients we use, to try, to smell and
to feel them first, and not just push
them away. In fact, I think learning
through play should be encouraged in
all of us, in all aspects of life.
Prep 15 min
Prove 30 min
Cook 1hr
Makes 24
325g plain flour
Y4-V2 tsp fine sea
salt, or less for
younger children
2 garlic cloves
2cm ginger
200g white cabbage
2 carrots
4 tbsp vegetable oil
Y2 bunch coriander
4 spring onions
1 tbsp low-salt soy
1 tbsp caster sugar
2 tbsp toasted
sesame seeds
Elz
3[a] Scan to
Momos with
spring onion oil
If you’re unsure of how to pleat a
momo, look online. Don’t worry if
yours aren’t perfect: as long as the
filling is encased, having fun is the
most important part.
Put the flour and salt in a bowl and
make a well in the middle. Add 200ml
tepid water and mix with your hands.
Knead for a few minutes, wipe the
bowl, then put the dough back in it,
cover and set aside for 30 minutes.
Peel and finely grate the garlic and
ginger. Peel and coarsely grate the
cabbage and carrots. Put a frying pan
ona medium heat, add a tablespoon
of oil, then stir-fry the ginger and
garlic for a minute. Add the cabbage
and carrots, and stir-fry on high for
five minutes. Spoon on to a plate to
cool, then snip in the coriander.
Trim and slice the spring onions.
Put the remaining oil in a small pan,
add the onions and cook on a very
low heat for five minutes. Stir in the
soy, sugar and three tablespoons of
water, raise the heat slightly, cook for
five minutes, then take off the heat.
Divide the dough in four, then
break each piece into six balls. Line
a tray with greaseproof paper. Place
one ball of dough in the palm of your
hand, flatten it out a bit, then roll out
ona lightly dusted work surface into
a10-12cm round. Put this in your
hand and spoon a heaped teaspoon of
the filling into the centre. Fold over to
enclose, pleat and crimp the edges,
then pinch and twist the top to seal.
Put on the tray and repeat with the
remaining dough and filling.
Set a steamer on a pan of boiling
water and line it with greaseproof
paper pierced with a few holes. Put
afew momos on top, keeping them
apart, cover and steam on a medium
heat for 10 minutes. Remove and keep
warm, then cook the other momos.
Toss the momos in the cooled
spring onion oil, scatter with toasted
sesame seeds and serve.
The Guardian Saturday 28 May 2022
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISSY CROKER/THE GUARDIAN. FOOD AND PROP STYLING: EMILY EZEKIEL. FOOD ASSISTANT: JOSEPH DENISON CAREY
Prep 15 min
Cook 35 min
Serves 4
600g new potatoes
4 large eggs
1 big knob of butter
1 tbsp olive oil
A few mint sprigs
or chives
4 tbsp mayonnaise
250g asparagus
1lemon
175g podded peas
20g parmesan
1 big handful baby
spinach
Sea salt and black
pepper (optional)
a
ary at Ocado
This is a really fun one to make
with kids, and is easily adaptable
to whatever your children favour.
If they are more likely to eat green
beans than asparagus, just swap.
Love the sweetness of carrots? Add
a layer of it grated in the middle.
Even if they pick out certain
elements, this is a great way to get
them used to mixing flavours.
Put the potatoes in a big pan of cold
water, place on a high heat and bring
to a boil. Turn down the heat toa
simmer and cook for about 15
minutes, until the potatoes are
tender. Add the eggs to the pan
halfway through. Drain the pan,
leaving the potatoes to steam dry
in the colander for a couple of
minutes. Meanwhile, put the eggs in
a bowl of cold water.
Cut the potatoes into 2cm
chunks or slices, return to the hot
pan and toss with half the butter
and a little oil. Finely chop or snip
the chives, or pick and finely chop
the mint, if using, and stir into the
potatoes. Peel the eggs, chop into
bite-sized pieces, put in a bowl and
stir in the mayonnaise.
Snap the woody ends off the
asparagus and chop the spears. Heat
a tablespoon of oil in a frying pan,
then fry the asparagus for three
minutes, until charred. Transfer to
a plate and squeeze over half the
lemon. Put the pan back on the hob,
add the peas and enough boiling
water to cover, then bring to a boil
and cook for three minutes. Drain,
toss with the remaining butter and
grate over most of the parmesan.
Put the spinach in a bowl and snip.
Squeeze over the remaining lemon
juice, season, then toss. Put the
dressed potatoes on top. Spoon over
the cheesy peas, and top with the egg
mayo and the asparagus. Finely grate
over the remaining parmesan and
serve immediately.
The,,
| Guardian
Podcasts
r
You might not realise it, but food can reveal a lot about
Help yourself 32ers
Join the Guardian's restaurant criticand Comfort
e Eating host Grace Dent with celebrity guests (including
to t lig 4 James May, Self Esteem and Big Zuu), as she throws the
cupboard doors wide open on friendship, family - andthe
foods that have seen them through it all.
Grvierodcasts | stl-coosleredcats | @spotty | Sijnmsc [Uisten wherever you get your podcasts)
