Principles of Textile Printing

375 Pages·2022·8.621 MB·English

by  Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury

P rinciples of Textile Printing
Principles of Textile Printing discusses technical aspects of textile printing, covering
almost all topics related to textile printing, including the types and quality of printing
important for user satisfaction. It offers historical and introductory aspects of textile
printing, styles and methods of printing, and printing and ancillary machines.
• Describes a variety of existing technologies and a wide range of designs
created by applying colors in restricted portions using printing tools.
• Identif es technical, as opposed to artistic, aspects of textile printing.
• Covers a wide range of diverse and economical designs created by applying
colors in restricted portions using printing tools.
• D iscusses theoretical as well as practical aspects of textile printing.
• E xplores a broad variety of printing types.
T he book aims to educate those readers from large printing houses as well as from
cottage and smaller boutique printers so that their products meet fastness standards.
Textile Institute Professional Publications
Series Editor: Helen D. Rowe, The Textile Institute
S tandard Methods for Thermal Comfort Assessment of Clothing
Ivana Špelić, Alka Mihelić Bogdanić, and Anica Hursa Sajatovic
F ibres to Smart Textiles
A dvances in Manufacturing, Technologies, and Applications
A sis Patnaik and Sweta Patnaik
F lame Retardants for Textile Materials
A sim Kumar Roy Choudhury
T extile Design
P roducts and Processes
Michael Hann
S cience in Design
S olidifying Design with Science and Technology
T arun Grover and Mugdha Thareja
T extiles and Their Use in Microbial Protection
F ocus on COVID-19 and Other Viruses
J iri Militky, Aravin Prince Periyasamy, and Mohanapriya Venkataraman
D ressings for Advanced Wound Care
S haron Lam Po Tang
M edical Textiles
H olly Morris and Richard Murray
O dour in Textiles
G eneration and Control
G . Thilagavathi and R. Rathinamoorthy
P rinciples of Textile Printing
A sim Kumar Roy Choudhury
F or more information about this series, please visit:
w ww.routledge.com/Textile-Institute-Professional-Publications/book-series/TIPP
P rinciples of Textile Printing
Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury
First edition published 2023
by CRC Press
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
A catalog record for this book has been requested
ISBN: 978-1-138-47874-9 (hbk)
ISBN: 978-1-138-47830-5 (pbk)
ISBN: 978-1-351-06783-6 (ebk)
DOI: 10.1201/9781351067836
Typeset in Times New Roman
by Apex CoVantage, LLC
Contents
Preface. ................................................................................................................... xvii
Author Biography .................................................................................................... xxi
Chapter 1 Introduction to Textile Printing ............................................................ 1
1 .1 Textiles – Historical Perspective ................................................ 1
1.2 Primitive Colorants .................................................................... 3
1.3 Textile Coloration ....................................................................... 6
1 .4 Textile Dyeing and Printing ....................................................... 6
1 .5 Textile Printing in Historical Perspective .................................. 7
1 .6 Preparation of Materials ............................................................. 9
1 .7 Methods and Styles of Printing .................................................. 9
1 .7.1 Methods of Printing ...................................................... 9
1 .7.1.1 Hand Block Printing ....................................10
1.7.1.2 Roller Printing ..............................................11
1.7.1.3 Stencil Printing ............................................12
1.7.1.4 Screen Printing .............................................12
1 .7.2 Manual or Hand Screen Printing .................................13
1.7.3 Flatbed Machine ..........................................................14
1 .7.4 Rotary Screen Printing Machine .................................15
1.7.4.1 Transfer Printing ..........................................16
1.7.4.2 Digital Printing ............................................16
1.7.4.3 Market Share ................................................17
1 .8 Styles of Printing .......................................................................19
Chapter 2 Preparatory Processes Before Printing ...............................................21
2.1 Introduction ...............................................................................21
2 .2 Aims of Preparatory Processes ...............................................22
2.3 Preparatory Processes .............................................................23
2 .4 Preparation of Cotton Materials ..............................................24
2 .4.1 Inspection and Mending .............................................24
2 .4.2 Shearing and Cropping ...............................................25
2.4.3 Singeing Process ........................................................27
2.4.4 Desizing Process ..........................................................32
2 .4.5 Scouring of Cotton .......................................................35
2 .4.6 Scouring of Wool .......................................................36
2 .4.7 Scouring of Silk .........................................................36
2 .4.8 Scouring of Synthetic Fibers ......................................36
2.4.9 Mercerization ...............................................................37
2.4.10 Heat-Setting .................................................................37
v
vi Contents
2.5 Bleaching ...................................................................................37
2.5.1 Reductive Bleaching Agents ........................................39
2 .5.2 Oxidative Bleaching Agents .........................................39
2.5.2.1 Peroxide Bleaching ........................................40
2.5.2.2 Strength of Hydrogen Peroxide ....................41
2.5.2.3 Bleaching Action ..........................................41
2.5.2.4 Continuous Process ......................................45
2.5.2.5 Enzymatic Processes ..................................46
2.6 Combined Scouring and Bleaching of Cotton ..........................47
2.7 Combined Preparatory Processes ............................................48
2.8 Effects of Pretreatment on Printing. ........................................48
2.9 Preparation of Protein Fibers ..................................................48
2.10 Preparation of Synthetic Materials ..........................................50
2.11 Future Trends ............................................................................51
Chapter 3 Dyes and Auxiliaries for Textile Printing ...........................................55
3.1 Introduction ...............................................................................55
3.2 Chemical Classif cation of Colorants ......................................56
3.2.1 Classif cation According to the Chemical
Constitution ..................................................................57
3.2.2 Classif cation According to the Method of
Application ...................................................................58
3.2.2.1 Direct Dyes ..................................................59
3.2.2.2 Acid Dyes (Including Metal-Complex
Acid Dyes) ....................................................59
3.2.2.3 Basic or Cationic Dyes ...............................63
3 .2.2.4 Mordant Dyes .............................................64
3 .2.2.5 Azoic Dyes .................................................65
3 .2.2.6 Antidiazotates .............................................66
3.2.2.7 Diazoamino Compounds ............................66
3.2.2.8 Sulfur Dyes .................................................66
3.2.2.9 Vat Dyes .......................................................67
3.2.2.10 Solubilized Vat Dyes ..................................68
3 .2.2.11 Reactive Dyes .............................................68
3.2.2.12 Nucleophile Substitution .............................69
3.2.2.13 Nucleophilic Addition ..................................70
3.2.2.14 Disperse Dyes ..............................................73
3.2.2.15 Azo Disperse Dyes .....................................77
3.2.2.16 Nitrodiphenylamine Disperse Dyes ............77
3.2.2.17 Anthraquinone Disperse Dyes ....................77
3.2.2.18 Methine (Styryl) Disperse Dyes ...................78
3.2.2.19 Heterocyclic Disperse Dyes .........................78
3.2.2.20 Pigment Colors .............................................79
3.2.2.21 Mineral Colors ............................................80
3.2.2.22 Cellulosic (Cotton and Viscose) ..................80
Contents vii
3.2.2.23 Cellulosic (Jute) ........................................... 80
3.2.2.24 Protein (Wool, Silk, Nylon) ..........................81
3.2.2.25 Synthetic Fibers (Polyester, Cellulose
Acetate, and, Less Commonly, Nylon) .........81
3.2.2.26 Other Synthetic Fibers (Acrylic and
Modacrylic) ..................................................81
3.3 Color Fastness Properties ..........................................................81
3.3.1 Washing Fastness .........................................................81
3.3.2 Light Fastness .............................................................. 83
3.3.3 Rubbing Fastness ......................................................... 85
3.3.4 Perspiration Fastness ................................................... 85
3.3.5 Fastness to Peroxide Bleaching ................................... 85
3.3.6 Fastness to Dry Heat ................................................... 85
3.4 Toxicity of Dyes ....................................................................... 86
3.5 Selection of Dyes for Printing .................................................. 86
3.5.1 Advantages of Pigment Printing ................................. 87
3.6 Textile Auxiliaries .................................................................... 87
3.6.1 Thickening Agents ...................................................... 88
3.6.1.1 Natural Thickeners ...................................... 90
3.6.1.2 Modif ed Natural Thickeners ...................... 90
3.6.1.3 Gums ............................................................91
3.6.1.4 Gum Tragacanth or Gum Dragon ................91
3.6.1.5 Gum Senegal or Gum Arabic .......................91
3.6.1.6 Gum Karaya .................................................91
3.6.1.7 Guar Gum. ....................................................91
3.6.1.8 Locust Bean Gum .......................................92
3.6.1.9 Gum from Neem/Babul/Moringa ...............93
3.6.1.10 Acacia Nilotica Gum ..................................93
3.6.1.11 Moringa Oleifera Gum ...............................93
3.6.1.12 Modif ed Starches .......................................94
3.6.1.13 Cellulose Derivatives ..................................94
3.6.1.14 Methyl Cellulose .........................................94
3.6.1.15 Sodium Carboxy Methyl Cellulose
(CMC) .........................................................94
3.6.1.16 Sodium Alginate .........................................94
3.6.1.17 Emulsion Thickeners ..................................94
3.6.1.18 Synthetic Thickeners ..................................96
3 .6.1.19 Non-Ionic Thickeners .................................97
3.6.1.20 Anionic Thickener ......................................97
3.6.1.21 Dispersed Liquid Thickeners ......................97
3.6.1.22 Thickeners for Printing Reactive Dyes .......98
3.6.2 Wetting Agent ............................................................99
3 .6.3 Hygroscopic Agent ...................................................100
3.6.4 Dispersing Agents ....................................................100
3 .6.5 Fixation Accelerators ...............................................100
3.6.6 Antifoaming Agent ...................................................100
viii Contents
3 .6.7 Oxidizing and Reducing Agents ................................101
3.6.8 Binders .......................................................................102
3.6.9 Carriers and Swelling Agents ....................................103
3.6.10 After-Washing Agents ................................................104
3.6.11 Mordants ....................................................................104
3.7 Environmental Aspects ...........................................................104
3.7.1 Solvent-Based Inks .....................................................106
3.7.2 Water-Based Inks .......................................................106
3 .7.3 Traditional (Air Dry) Ink ...........................................106
3.7.4 Discharge Ink .............................................................107
3.7.5 Plastisol Inks ..............................................................108
3.8 Future Trends ..........................................................................111
Chapter 4 Various Means of Printing Textiles ...................................................115
4.1 Introduction .............................................................................115
4.1.1 Styles of Printing ........................................................116
4.2 Direct Style of Printing ...........................................................116
4.3 Discharge Style of Printing .....................................................117
4.3.1 White Discharge .........................................................118
4.3.2 Color Discharge .........................................................118
4 .4 Resist Style ..............................................................................120
4 .4.1 Batik Printing .............................................................121
4.4.2 Tie and Dye Style .......................................................121
4.5 Spray Printing ..........................................................................123
4.6 Flock Style of Printing ............................................................123
4.6.1 Methods of Flock Application ..................................124
4.6.1.1 Spraying by Compressed Air ....................124
4.6.1.2 Shaking Process .........................................125
4.6.1.3 The Electrostatic Method ...........................125
4.6.1.4 Flock Transfer ............................................125
4.6.1.5 Flock Adhesives .........................................126
4.6.1.6 Electrostatic System ...................................127
4.6.1.7 Hand -Held Units ........................................127
4.7 Burn -Out or Devoré Style of Printing .....................................128
4.8 Crepon or Crimp Style of Printing ..........................................129
4.9 Emboss Style of Printing .........................................................129
4.9.1 Blind Emboss .............................................................129
4.9.2 Tint Emboss ...............................................................130
4.9.3 Single Level Emboss ..................................................130
4.9.4 Multilevel Emboss ......................................................130
4.9.5 Printed Emboss ..........................................................130
4.9.6 Registered Emboss .....................................................130
4.9.7 Glazing .......................................................................130
4.10 Transfer Printing .....................................................................130
4.10.1 Classif cation ..............................................................133
Contents ix
4.10.2 Sublimation Transfer Printing ....................................133
4 .10.3 Wet Transfer Printing Process ...................................133
4.10.4 Melt Transfer ..............................................................134
4 .10.5 Film Release ...............................................................134
4 .10.6 Merits/Drawbacks of Sublimation Transfer
Printing .......................................................................135
4 .10.7 Selection of Dyes for Transfer Printing .....................136
4 .10.8 Selection of Paper .......................................................137
4 .10.9 Transfer Paper Printing ..............................................137
4.10.10 Print Paste for Paper Printing ....................................137
4 .10.11 Transfer Printing on Nylon ........................................138
4.10.12 Transfer Printing on Polyester ....................................138
4 .10.13 Transfer Printing on Acrylic ......................................138
4 .10.14 Cotton and Cotton/PE Blends ....................................138
4 .11 Digital Printing Style ..............................................................139
4.12 Space Dyeing ...........................................................................140
4.12.1 Knit-Deknit Method ...................................................141
4 .12.2 Space Dyeing of Warp ...............................................141
4 .12.3 Space Dyeing of Hanks ..............................................142
4 .12.4 Space Dyeing on Wound Packages ............................143
4 .12.5 Space Dyeing of Tufted Carpets, Knitted and
Woven Fabrics ............................................................143
4.13 Future Trends ..........................................................................144
Chapter 5 Direct, Discharge and Resist Styles of Printing ................................147
5.1 Introduction .............................................................................147
5 .2 Direct Style of Printing of Cellulosic Materials ......................148
5 .2.1 Printing with Pigment Colors. ....................................149
5.2.1.1 Binder .........................................................150
5.2.1.2 Crosslinking ...............................................150
5.2.1.3 Thickeners ..................................................152
5 .2.1.4 Mode of Action ..........................................154
5.2.1.5 Printing Process .........................................155
5.2.1.6 Fashion Printing .........................................157
5 .2.1.7 White Pigment Printing (Khadi
Printing) .....................................................157
5.2.1.8 Typical Recipe ............................................157
5.2.1.9 Mica (Pearl) Printing .................................157
5.2.1.10 Print Paste Recipe ......................................158
5.2.1.11 Rubber/Puff/Foam/Emboss Printing .........158
5.2.1.12 Glitter Printing ...........................................159
5 .2.1.13 Metal Powder Printing ...............................160
5.2.1.14 Foil Printing ...............................................160
5 .2.2 Printing with Reactive Dyes ......................................160
5.2.2.1 Fabric Pretreatment ....................................161