Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetics and personal care PDF
Preview Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetics and personal care
Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care edited by E. Desmond Goddard Former Corporate Research Fellow Union Carbide Corporation Tarrytown, New York James V. Gruber Amerchol Corporation Edison, New Jersey MARCEL MARCEL DEKKER, INC. NEW YORK • BASEL D E K K E R Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Library ofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData Principles ofpolymerscience andtechnology incosmeticsand personal care/ editedby E.DesmondGoddardand JamesV. Gruber. p. cm.—(Cosmeticscience andtechnology :v. 22) Includesbibliographical referencesand index. ISBN0-8247-1923-9(alk. paper) 1. Cosmetics. 2. Toiletpreparations. 3. Polymers. I.Goddard, E.D. (ErrolDesmond). II. Gruber, JamesV. III.Series:Cosmetic scienceand technologyseries : v. 22. TP983.P8924 1999 668¢.5—dc21 99-17274 CIP This bookis printedonacid-freepaper. Headquarters Marcel Dekker,Inc. 270 MadisonAvenue, New York,NY 10016 tel: 212-696-9000;fax:212-685-4540 Eastern HemisphereDistribution Marcel DekkerAG Hutgasse 4, Postfach812,CH-4001 Basel,Switzerland tel: 41-61-261-8482;fax:41-61-261-8896 World WideWeb http://www.dekker.com Thepublisheroffersdiscountsonthisbookwhenorderedinbulkquantities.Formoreinformation, write toSpecialSales/ProfessionalMarketing at theheadquartersaddressabove. Copyright (cid:211) 1999byMarcelDekker,Inc.AllRightsReserved. Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronicormechanical,includingphotocopying,microfilming,andrecording,orbyanyinforma- tionstorage andretrieval system, withoutpermissioninwritingfromthepublisher. Current printing(last digit): 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 PRINTED IN THEUNITEDSTATESOF AMERICA Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved. AbouttheSeries The CosmeticScienceand Technology series was conceived to permit discussion ofabroad rangeof current knowledge and theories of cosmeticscience and technology.Theseries is composed of both books written by asingleauthor and edited volumes with anumber of contributors.Authorities fromindustry,academia, and thegovernment participatein writing thesebooks. The aimof theseries is to cover the many facets of cosmeticscience and technology.Topics are drawn from a wide spectrumof disciplines ranging from chemistry,physics,biochemistry, and analytical and consumer evaluations to safety, efficacy,toxicity,and regulatory questions. Organic,inorganic,physical and polymer chemistry,emulsion and lipidtechnology, microbiology,dermatology,and toxicology all play important roles in cosmeticscience. Thereis littlecommonality in thescientific methods, processes, and formulations required for thewidevariety of cosmetics and toiletries in the market.Products range frompreparations for hair,oral, and skin careto lipsticks,nail polishes and extenders,deodorants,bodypowders and aerosols,to quasi-pharmaceutical over-the-counter products such as antiperspirants,dandruff shampoos,antimicrobial soaps,and acne and sun screen products. Cosmetics and toiletries represent ahighlydiversified field involving many subsections of Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved. scienceand “art.”Even in these days of high technology,art and intuitioncontinueto play an important part in thedevelopment of formulations,their evaluation,selection of raw materials, and,perhaps most importantly,thesuccessful marketing of new products.The application of more sophisticated scientific methodologies that gained steam in the1980s has increased in such areas as claimsubstantiation,safety testing,product testing,and chemical analysisand has led to abetter understanding of theproperties ofskin and hair.Molecular modeling techniques are beginning to beapplied to data obtained in skin sensory studies. Emphasis in theCosmetic Science and Technology series is placed on reporting thecurrent status of cosmetictechnology and scienceand changing regulatory climates and presenting historical reviews. Theseries has now grown to 26 books dealing with theconstantly changing technologies and trends in thecosmeticindustry,including globalization.Several of thevolumes havebeen translated into Japanese and Chinese.Contributionsrangefrom highly sophisticated and scientifictreatises to primers and presentations of practical applications.Authors are encouraged to present their own concepts as well as established theories.Contributors havebeen asked not to shy away fromfields that are in astate of transition,nor to hesitateto present detailed discussionsof their own work. Altogether,weintend to develop in this series a collection of critical surveys and ideas covering diversephases of thecosmeticindustry. The13 chapters in Multifunctional Cosmetics cover multifunctional products forhair,nail, oral, and skin care, as well as products with enhanced sunscreen and antimicrobial properties Several chapters deal with thedevelopment of claimsupport data,the roleof packaging,and consumer research on theperception of multifunctional cosmeticproducts.The authors keep in mind that in thecase of cosmetics,it is not only thephysical effects that can be measured on theskin or hair,but also thesensory effects that have to betaken into account.Cosmetics can have a psychological and social impact that cannot beunderestimated. I want to thank all thecontributors for participating in this project and particularly theeditors, Perry Romanowski and Randy Schueller, for conceiving,organizing,and coordinating this book. It is thesecond bookthat they havecontributed to this series and we appreciate their efforts. Special thanks aredueto SandraBeberman and Erin Nihill oftheeditorial and production staff at Marcel Dekker,Inc.Finally, I would liketo thank my wife, Eva, without whoseconstant support and editorial help I would not haveundertaken this project. EricJungermann,Ph.D. Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved. COSMETICSCIENCEANDTECHNOLOGY SeriesEditor ERICJUNGERMANN JungermannAssociates,Inc. Phoenix,Arizona 1. Cosmetic and Drug Preservation: Principles and Practice, edited by Jon J. Kabara 2. TheCosmeticIndustry:ScientificandRegulatoryFoundations,editedbyNorman F.Estrin 3. Cosmetic Product Testing: A Modern Psychophysical Approach, Howard R. Moskowitz 4. CosmeticAnalysis:SelectiveMethodsandTechniques,editedbyP.Boré 5. CosmeticSafety:APrimerforCosmeticScientists,editedbyJamesH.Whittam 6. OralHygieneProductsandPractice,MortonPader 7. AntiperspirantsandDeodorants,editedbyKarlLadenandCarlB.Felger 8. ClinicalSafetyandEfficacyTestingofCosmetics,editedbyWilliamC.Waggoner 9. MethodsforCutaneousInvestigation,editedbyRobertL.RietschelandThomas S.Spencer 10. Sunscreens: Development, Evaluation, and Regulatory Aspects, edited by NicholasJ.LoweandNadimA.Shaath 11. Glycerine: A Key Cosmetic Ingredient, edited by Eric Jungermann and Norman O.V.Sonntag 12. HandbookofCosmeticMicrobiology,DonaldS.Orth 13. RheologicalPropertiesofCosmeticsandToiletries,editedbyDennisLaba 14. Consumer Testing and Evaluation of Personal Care Products, Howard R. Mos- kowitz 15. Sunscreens:Development,Evaluation,andRegulatoryAspects.SecondEdition, Revised and Expanded, edited by Nicholas J. Lowe, Nadim A. Shaath, and MadhuA.Pathak 16. Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs: Principles and Practice,editedbyJonJ.KabaraandDonaldS.Orth 17. HairandHairCare,editedbyDaleH.Johnson 18. CosmeticClaimsSubstantiation,editedbyLouiseB.Aust 19. NovelCosmeticDeliverySystems,editedbyShlomoMagdassiandElkaTouitou 20. AntiperspirantsandDeodorants: SecondEdition,RevisedandExpanded,edited byKarlLaden 21. Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin, edited by Randy Schueller and Perry Romanowski 22. PrinciplesofPolymerScienceandTechnologyinCosmeticsandPersonalCare, editedbyE.DesmondGoddardandJamesV.Gruber 23. Cosmeceuticals: Drugs vs. Cosmetics, edited by Peter Elsner and Howard I. Maibach 24. CosmeticLipidsandtheSkinBarrier,editedbyThomasFörster 25. SkinMoisturization,editedbyJamesJ.LeydenandAnthonyV.Rawlings 26. MultifunctionalCosmetics,editedbyRandySchuellerandPerryRomanowski ADDITIONALVOLUMESINPREPARATION (cid:83)(cid:101)(cid:114)(cid:105)(cid:101)(cid:115) (cid:73)(cid:110)(cid:116)(cid:114)(cid:111)(cid:100)(cid:117)(cid:99)(cid:116)(cid:105)(cid:111)(cid:110) The Cosmetic Science and Technology series was conceived to permit discussion of a broad range of current knowledge and theories of cosmetic science and technology. The series is made up of books either written by a single author or edited with a number of contributors. Authorities from industry, academia, and the government are participating in writing these books. Theaimofthisseriesistocoverthemanyfacetsofcosmeticscienceandtechnology. Topics are drawn from a wide spectrum of disciplines ranging from chemistry, physics, biochemistry,analyticalandconsumerevaluationstosafety,efficacy,toxicity,andregula- toryquestions.Organic, inorganic,physical,and polymerchemistry,aswellasemulsion technology,microbiology,dermatologyandtoxicologyallplayaroleincosmeticscience. There is little commonality in the scientific methods, processes, or formulations re- quiredforthewidevarietyofcosmeticsandtoiletriesmanufactured.Productsrangefrom hair care, oral care, and skin care preparations to lipsticks, nail polishes and extenders, deodorants,body powdersandaerosols,toover-the-counter products,such asantiperspi- rants, dandruff treatments, antimicrobial soaps, and acne and sunscreen products. Cosmeticsandtoiletriesrepresentahighlydiversifiedfieldwithmanysubsectionsof science and ‘‘art.’’ Indeed, even in these days of high technology, ‘‘art’’ and intuition continue to play an important part in the development of formulations, their evaluation, and the selection of raw materials. There is a move toward more sophisticated scientific methodologies in the fields of preservative efficacy testing, claim substantiation, safety testing, product evaluation, and chemical analyses. Emphasis in the Cosmetic Science and Technologyseries is placed on reporting the currentstatusofcosmetictechnologyandscienceinadditiontohistoricalreviews.Several ofthebookshavefoundaninternationalaudienceandhavebeentranslatedintoJapanese orChinese.Contributionsrangefromhighlysophisticatedandscientifictreatisestoprim- ers,practicalapplications,andpragmaticpresentations.Authorsareencouragedtopresent theirownconcepts,aswellasestablishedtheories.Contributorshavebeenaskednotto shyawayfromfieldsthatarestillinastateoftransition,ortohesitatetopresentdetailed discussionsoftheirownwork.Altogether,weintendtodevelopinthisseriesacollection of critical surveys and ideas covering diverse phases of the cosmetic industry. Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved. iv SeriesIntroduction Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care is the twenty-second volume published in this series. Polymers are important components inabroadrangeofcosmeticandpersonalcareproducts.Theyfillamultitudeoffunctions toonumeroustolist.Thisbookcoversthemanyclassesofpolymersusedinalmostevery typeofcosmeticformulationandtheirwiderangeofapplications,specialproperties,and sometimes specialized requirements. I want to thank the editors, E. Desmond Goddard and James V. Gruber, and all the contributors for collaboratingintheeditingandwriting ofthisbook. Specialrecognition isalsoduetoSandraBebermanandtheeditorialstaffatMarcelDekker,Inc.Inaddition, I would like to thank my wife Eva, without whose constant support and editorial help I would never have undertaken this project. Eric Jungermann, Ph.D. Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved. (cid:80)(cid:114)(cid:101)(cid:102)(cid:97)(cid:99)(cid:101) Although synthetic polymers first appeared in the last century, it has been the twentieth century,especiallythesecondhalf,whichhaswitnessedanexplosivegrowthinthedevel- opmentanduseofthiscategoryofmaterial.Indeed,itisdifficulttothinkofmanyindus- tries today that do not employ polymers in some form or another. Such employment, of course,includesthatbythecosmeticandpersonalcareindustryinwhichtheuseofpoly- mericmaterialscontinuestodeveloprapidly.Thistrendwillcontinueinthenextcentury. Polymerscience—alreadystartingfromasolidfoundationwiththeearlyrecognition that many natural products, including proteins and polysaccharides, are polymeric—has grown apace with these developments. Today some would aver that it has been difficult for manyscientists, includingthoseactually involved in research anddevelopment work involvingpolymers,tokeepabreastofrecenttheoreticaldevelopments,letalonetoretain a working familiarity with what has evolved today as basic polymer science. Be this as itmay,aneedwasidentifiedforabookthatcouldbeusednotonlyasareferencesource forthepolymerscurrentlyusedinthecosmeticsindustry,butalsoasasourceofinforma- tion on thebasic physical chemistryof polymers asitapplies to thefunctions they serve intheformulationandusepropertiesofcosmetics.Furthermore,becauseofboththelatter featuresandtheoverlappingoftechnology,itseemsthatsuchatext mightalsobefound useful by investigators in related fields such as detergent formulation, pharmaceuticals, textiles, and even the latex paint industry. Bearing in mind the breadth of the field, we invitedtheparticipationofseveralotherauthors,allrecognizedasexpertsintheirarea(s) ofpolymerscience.Webelievetheresultisacomprehensivecoverageofthefielddesig- nated by the title of the book. The body of the text consists of 12 self-standing chapters comprising a mix of the fundamental science of polymers, their solution and interfacial properties, their interac- tionswithsurfactants,theintrinsicpropertiesofpolymersemployedincosmeticformula- tions,and thepropertiestheyconfer totreated surfaces.Thereis alsoanappendix which lists and groups the polymers used in cosmetics. Chapter 1 is an introduction to polymer science, covering its history, fundamentals, andrecentdevelopments.Thereaderisintroducedtothedifferenttypesofpolymers,their Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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