Critical Acclaim for Laura Pedersen Buffalo Gal “This book is compulsively readable, and owes its deadpan delivery to the fact that she has performed standup comedy on national television (The Oprah Winfrey Show, Late Night with David Letterman, Today, Primetime, etc.).” —ForeWord Magazine Best Bet “The book’s laugh-out-loud funny, and readers will find themselves rereading lines just for the sheer joy of it.” —Kirkus Reviews The Big Shuffle “Although it’s a laugh-out-loud read, it’s an appealing, sensitive, superbly written book. One you won’t want to put down. I loved it.” —The Lakeland Times “Be prepared to fall in love with a story as wise as it is witty.” —The Compulsive Reader The Sweetest Hours “To call The Sweetest Hours a book of short stories would be like calling the Mona Lisa a painting.” —Front Street Reviews “Pedersen weaves tales that blend humor, sorrow, and sometimes surprise endings in the games of life and love.” —Book Loons Heart’s Desire “Funny, tender, and poignant, Heart’s Desire should appeal to a wide range of readers.” —Booklist “Prepare to fall in love again because Laura Pedersen is giving you your ‘Heart’s Desire’ by bringing back Hallie Palmer and her entire endearing crew. In a story as wise as it is witty, Pedersen captures the joy of love found, the ache of love lost, and how friends can get you through it all—win or lose.” —Sarah Bird, author of The Yokota Officers Club “This book will make you laugh and cry and like a good friend, you’ll be happy to have made its acquaintance.” —Lorna Landvik, author of Angry Housewives Eating Bon Bons Last Call “Pedersen writes vividly of characters so interesting, so funny and warm that they defy staying on the page.” —The Hartford Courant “This book is a rare, humorous exploration of death that affirms life is a gift and tomorrow is never guaranteed. Pedersen writes an exquisitely emotional story. A must-have book to start the new year.” —Romantic Times Beginner’s Luck “Laura Pedersen delivers…if this book hasn’t been made into a screenplay already, it should be soon. Throughout, you can’t help but think how hilarious some of the scenes would play on the big screen.” —The Hartford Courant “Funny, sweet-natured, and well-crafted…Pedersen has created a wonderful assemblage of…whimsical characters and charm.” —Kirkus Reviews “This novel is funny and just quirky enough to become a word-of-mouth favorite…Pedersen has a knack for capturing tart teenage observations in witty asides, and Hallie’s naiveté, combined with her gambling and numbers savvy, make her a winning protagonist.” —Publishers Weekly “A breezy coming-of-age novel with an appealing cast of characters.” —Booklist Going Away Party “Pedersen shows off her verbal buoyancy. Their quips are witty and so are Pedersen’s amusing characterizations of the eccentric MacGuires. Sentence by sentence, Pedersen’s debut can certainly entertain.” —Publishers Weekly Play Money “A savvy insider’s vastly entertaining line on aspects of the money game.” —Kirkus Reviews (starred review) Also by Laura Pedersen Nonfiction Play Money Buffalo Gal Buffalo Unbound Fiction Going Away Party Beginner’s Luck Last Call Heart’s Desire The Sweetest Hours The Big Shuffle Best Bet LauraPedersenBooks.com Text © 2012 Laura Pedersen All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by an information storage and retrieval system—except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages in a review—without permission in writing from the publisher. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Pedersen, Laura. Planes, trains, and auto-rickshaws : a journey through modern India / Laura Pedersen. p. cm. ISBN 978-1-55591-618-3 (pbk.) 1. India--Description and travel. 2. Pedersen, Laura--Travel--India. 3. India-- Social life and customs. 4. Women--India--Social conditions. 5. Children-- India--Social conditions. 6. India--Social conditions--1947- I. Title. DS414.2.P43 2012 915.404’532--dc23 2012005900 Printed in Canada 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Design by Jack Lenzo Fulcrum Publishing 4690 Table Mountain Dr., Ste. 100 Golden, CO 80403 800-992-2908 • 303-277-1623 www.fulcrumbooks.com In memory of Nina Kohnstamm (1940– 2011)— teacher, traveler, friend Contents Bewildered, Bothered, and Bewitched Eastward Ho! Planes, Trains, and Auto-Rickshaws Mother India Old and New Delhi Taj Mahal Safaris, Spas, and Shopping Shall We Gather at the River? Oh! Kolkata! Salaam Mumbai! All Aboard! Down South So Many Gods, So Little Time Caste Away System Boldface Names Monkeys and Tigers and Snakes, Oh My! Game Changers: Women and Children India Unbound