Performance Costume: New Perspectives and Methods

425 Pages·2021·8.372 MB·English

by  Sofa Pantouvaki and Peter McNeil

Performance Costume
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Performance Costume : New Perspectives and Methods, edited by Sofia Pantouvaki, and Peter McNeil, Bloomsbury Publishing USA, 2021. ProQuest Ebook
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Performance Costume : New Perspectives and Methods, edited by Sofia Pantouvaki, and Peter McNeil, Bloomsbury Publishing USA, 2021. ProQuest Ebook
Performance Costume:
New Perspectives and
Methods
Edited by
Sofa Pantouvaki and Peter McNeil
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Perf9o7r8m1a3n5c0e09 C88o0s0tu_mtxet_ :p Nrinetw.i nPdedr s p3ectives and Methods, edited by Sofia Pantouvaki, and Peter McNeil, Bloomsbury Publishing USA, 2021. ProQuest Ebook 27-08-2020 23:04:28
BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS
Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
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1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA
BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are
trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
First published in Great Britain 2021
Selection and editorial matter © Sofa Pantouvaki and Peter McNeil, 2021
Individual chapters © The Authors
Sofa Pantouvaki and Peter McNeil have asserted their right under the Copyright,
Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifed as Editors of this work.
For legal purposes the Acknowledgements on p. xxiii
constitute an extension of this copyright page.
Every reasonable effort has been made to trace copyright holders of material reproduced in this book,
but if any have been inadvertently overlooked the Publishers would be glad to hear from them.
Cover design by www.ironicitalics.com
Cover image: 44th Karlovy Vary International Film Festival, Czech Republic, 2009.
Director/choreographer, set and lighting designer: Šimon Caban; costume designer:
Simona Rybáková. (© REUTERS/ David W Cerný)
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,
recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without prior
permission in writing from the publishers.
Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for,
any third-party websites referred to or in this book. All internet addresses given in
this book were correct at the time of going to press. The author and publisher
regret any inconvenience caused if addresses have changed or sites have ceased to exist,
but can accept no responsibility for any such changes.
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Performance Costume : New Perspectives and Methods, edited by Sofia Pantouvaki, and Peter McNeil, Bloomsbury Publishing USA, 2021. ProQuest Ebook
Table of Contents
List of Illustrations viii
Notes on Contributors xiv
Foreword Maija Pekkanen xx
Foreword Simona Rybáková xxi
Acknowledgements xxiii
Introduction
Activating Costume: A New Approach to Costume for Performance
Sofa Pantouvaki and Peter McNeil 1
Section 1 Interpreting and Curating Costume
1.1 Real or Virtual? Studying Historical Costume Drawings and Sketches
Margaret Mitchell 7
1.2 Cooking: Studying Film Costume Design Drake Stutesman 23
1.3 Displaying Stage Costumes: Exhibitions at the National Centre for
Stage Costume, France Delphine Pinasa 35
Snapshots
1.4 Cross-Cultural Costume Research: Beijing Opera Costumes Alexandra B. Bonds 51
1.5 Reading Maltese Carnival Costumes Vicki Ann Cremona 59
1.6 Curating Costume: Refection Aoife Monks 63
Section 2 Personalities in Costume
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.A Identity, 1870–1900 Helen Margaret Walter 89
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Performance Costume : New Perspectives and Methods, edited by Sofia Pantouvaki, and Peter McNeil, Bloomsbury Publishing USA, 2021. ProQuest Ebook
Section 3 Costume Voices, Costume Histories
3.1 The First Premiere and Other Stories: Towards a History of the Costume
Design Profession in Finland Joanna Weckman 141
3.2 Spinning Yarns: Locating, Learning and Listening in the Social World of Popular Hindi
Film Costume Production Clare M. Wilkinson 159
Snapshots
3.3 Hollywood Costume: A Journey to Curation Deborah Nadoolman Landis 173
3.4 ‘The Getting of Wisdom’: Learning from Anna Senior Jennifer Gall 179
3.5 Design for Television: Costume and Contemporary Clothing
Chrisi Karvonides-Dushenko 185
Section 4 Costume and the Body
4.1 The Body as the Matter of Costume: A Phenomenological Practice
Donatella Barbieri 197
4.2 The Body as Site: Interdisciplinary Approaches to Dress in/as Performance
Jessica Bugg 213
4.3 ‘Aware-Wearing’: A Somatic Costume Design Methodology for Performance
Sally E. Dean 229
Snapshots
4.4 Costuming the Foot: A Designer/Performer’s Personal Artistic Methods
Alexandra Murray-Leslie 247
4.5 Costume and the Modernist Body: Fashioning August Strindberg
Viveka Kjellmer 255
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Performance Costume : New Perspectives and Methods, edited by Sofia Pantouvaki, and Peter McNeil, Bloomsbury Publishing USA, 2021. ProQuest Ebook
Section 6 Costume and Social Impact
6.1 Exploring Rossini’s Berta: Young Audiences and the Agency of Opera Costume
Sofa Pantouvaki 317
6.2 Designing Hospital Clown Costumes: Psychological and Social Benefts for
Finnish Children’s Healthcare Merja Väisänen 343
6.3 Costume of Confict Mateja Fajt 361
Snapshots
6.4 From Efect to Afect: The Costumed Body and the Autistic Child
Melissa Trimingham 377
6.5 Designing Tsunami: Costume Evolution from Documentary to Surrealist
Michiko Kitayama Skinner 381
6.6 The Collaborative Process of Costume Creation: Travestis in São Paulo
Fausto Viana 387
Index 391
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Performance Costume : New Perspectives and Methods, edited by Sofia Pantouvaki, and Peter McNeil, Bloomsbury Publishing USA, 2021. ProQuest Ebook
List of Illustrations
Figures
1.1.1 Costume for Recit de l'Amerique. Courtesy of McNay Art Museum 10
1.1.2 Entry of King Atahualpa in Recit de l'Amerique. Courtesy of Bibliothèque Nationale de
France, Department of Prints 16
1.1.3 Portrait of King Atahualpa. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art; Gift of David
Wagstaf 17
1.1.4 Ballet costume from Recit de l'Amerique with colours similar to the Tobin image. Courtesy
of Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Department of Prints 18
1.1.5 Ripa’s interpretation of an American, Iconologia. Courtesy of The Archive for Research on
Archetypical Symbolism 19
1.2.1 Marlene Dietrich in her costume for Morocco, 1930. Courtesy of Photofest 25
1.2.2 Marlon Brando dressed in his highly designed T-shirt in A Streetcar Named Desire, 1951.
Courtesy of Photofest 30
1.2.3 Cooking a pie can bring the past to life. Courtesy of the author 31
1.3.1 The National Centre for Stage Costume, Moulins, France. © CNCS /
Moulins Communauté 36
1.3.2 Costume for Lady Macbeth in Shakespeare’s Macbeth, costumes by Thierry Mugler,
Comédie-Française, 1985. © CNCS / Pascal François 37
1.3.3 Costume for Prince Siegfried in Swan Lake, Vienna Opera, 1964. © CNCS / Pascal
François 39
1.3.4 Showcase from the exhibition ‘Artisans and Craftsmen of the Performing Arts’ (2017).
© CNCS / Florent Gifard 40
1.3.5 Showcase from the exhibition ‘Bêtes de scène’ (2006). © CNCS / Pascal François 41
1.3.6 Various stages of mannequinage. © CNCS / Pascaline Noack 44
1.3.7 Showcase from the exhibition ‘Shakespeare : The Stuf of the World’ (2014). © CNCS /
.d Pascal François 45
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.AS 1.4.2 The Red-Maned Fiery Steed (Hongzong liema), 2001. Photo by the author 56
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2.1.4 Window & Grove, photograph of Ellen Terry as Guinevere in King Arthur, 1895. © Victoria
& Albert Museum 79
2.2.1 Window & Grove, On and Of the Stage, 1873. Photographic reproductions 90
2.2.2 Anon., Mr. Hare’s Dressing Room, and Mr. Hare’s Inner Room, 1891 94
2.2.3 Alexander Bassano, Herbert Beerbohm Tree, 1884. London: National Portrait Gallery 99
2.2.4 Sir Herbert Beerbohm Tree, c.1894–1907. London: National Portrait Gallery 99
2.2.5 Alexander Bassano, Herbert Beerbohm Tree, 1884. London: National Portrait Gallery 100
2.2.6 Herbert Rose Barraud, Herbert Beerbohm Tree, 1890. London: National Portrait Gallery 101
2.3.1 ‘Armand Berthez, Gaby Deslys and Irène Bordoni in “Midi bouge” by Michel Carré et
André Barde’. Sketch by Yves Marevéry, c. 1911. Image courtesy of the Bibliothèque
nationale de France 108
2.3.2 Deslys in the white tulle gown with ostrich feather trim by Drian for Paquin and
headdress by Maison Lewis. Image from the author’s collection 113
2.3.3 Gaby Deslys (Marie-Elise Gabrielle Caire), by Talbot, c. 1913. Image courtesy of the
National Portrait Gallery, London 115
2.4.1 Film still from A Foreign Afair, 1948 122
2.4.2 Interior bodice of gown worn by Marlene Dietrich, FIDM Museum 123
2.4.3 Photograph of Marlene Dietrich performing in Anzio, Italy 124
2.4.4 Photograph of Marlene Dietrich and Jean Gabin at Ciro’s nightclub, Los Angeles, 1941 125
2.5.1 Vivien Leigh researching her script for Caesar and Cleopatra, 1943. Victoria and Albert
Museum, London 130
2.5.2 Robert Helpmann and Vivien Leigh in A Midsummer Night’s Dream, 1937. Victoria and
Albert Museum, London 131
2.5.3 Headdress now in the collection of the V&A Museum, London. Victoria and Albert
Museum, London 132
2.5.4 Vivien Leigh in A Midsummer Night’s Dream, 1937. Victoria and Albert Museum,
London 133
2.5.5 Costume designs by Oliver Messel for Caesar and Cleopatra, 1945. Victoria and Albert
Museum, London 134
2.5.6 Costume designs by Oliver Messel for Caesar and Cleopatra, 1945. Victoria and Albert
.d Museum, London 134
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