ST. ANTHONY FALLS HYDRAULIC LABORATORY UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA Project Report No. 39 LABORATORY WAVE -GENERATING APPARATUS TRANSLATION OF A SERIES OF FRENCH ARTICLES FROM La Houille Blanche Submitted by LORENZ G. STRAUB Director Prepared by MEIR PILCH October, 19S3. Prepared for the DAVID TAYLOR MODEL BASIN Department of the Navy Washington, D.C. Under Contract Nonr-7l0(OS) ~ ,;, -PR-E-F-A-C-E- TOT HE . ENG L. ISH --- ~------ This report is a translation of a series of four French articles by F. Suquet.l' Fo Bi~sel,9 ,and a group of engineers at the Laboratoire Dauphinois dlRydraulique (Neyrpic) The initial text material appeared in L.a Houille ,', 0 Blanche, No. 2~ ,Ma.rch~April)l 1951)1 ppo 147-165, No.' 4.1' July-August)) 1951,9 pp. 475-496; No.5, September-October)) 1951,9 pp. 723-737; and No.6)) l)ecember.l' 1952, pp. 779-801., rn1 tial translating work was performed in order to expedite: research st~dies sponsored by the St. Anthony.Falls Laboratory. However, after con. .. tractua1 agreement was madewitli the David Taylor Model Basin for a program of wave research.l' perusal of the work contained herein yielded the belief that this material lI}iiht be 0;[' considerable assistance to the sponsoring agency- if it were available ill English. Therefore,ll the present ;['orm of the translation has been completed as a part of the library research performed in connection wi th wave studies sponsored 1;>y. the Pavid Taylor Model ;Basin under contract Nonr-710(05) 0 Oertain changes from' the original have been incorporated ,as shown below. ,\ (a) The report.l' which originally was divided among four sepa rate issues of La Houille Blanche, has been placed together to yield text continuity. (b) Illustrations and figures have been grouped together in appendix form. (c) The equations of po 22 refJd as follows in the French text: Ci "" ...;..Ci; .----- {3 I: ""' ctg Ci mh tanh mh The above were believed to be typographical errors and ama'thematical check showed the'equations should.be of the form g; "". ! {3 ",,', Ci and {3 == cot Ci . k h rob tanh mh (d) Certain footnotes have. been added by the translator for clar:Lty'; these are followed by the'notation (SAFHt,). The project was supervised byDr.'I.orenz G. Straub.llP1rector of the Laboratory, with the assi.stance of Co Eo Bowers as project leader. Staff members who prepared the report and rendered assistance were Meir Pilch,9, translation; and J. A. Ross Joyce Chalmersj) and Marilyn Larsonj) editing and ll preparation for publication. iii A--B-ST-R-A--C-T (by translator) This comp11ation comprises four articles dealing with tile design and characteristics of wave-generating machinery. Part I~which is c?mposed of the first three articles, defines the problems incidental to wave-generator operation and evaluates many machines currently in use. It also presents a theoretical analysis crf wave generators, the results of which describe the wave generated the forces acting upon the wave machine ;~d 0 In PartIr a group of engineers a t'the Dauphin Hydtaulic Laboratory (Neyrpic) relate in detail how they have managed to mee,t the design and moti:on . requirements of laboratory wave generators. By way of 111ustrationtheauthors describe three different laboratory installations for the study of waves or harbor problems. In conclusion, they indicate the necessary and feasible im provements in design and construction of wave-generating maohines; most of ' these improvements have already beenincorpoJ:!ated in prototypes and rtested. iv -C-O-N--T-E-N..T.,S. :Page · · . Prefaoe to the' English Translation •• 0 • • • , .. iii Abstract •••• '" • • • • • .• • • • • iv List of Illustrations •••••••• • 0 . . vii D •• ' ..... , ••• · .L ist of Plates ••••••.••• :x: • 0 • .. .. • • • • • • PART I CHARACTERISTICS A~CLASSIFICATION OF WAVE GENERATORS · . l" INTRODUCTION ~,.(10""'. .• •. .C f-'O""" · . . ... , . 1 .I I.. . MOTION PROBLEMS • oCto '!I' 9 , · .". .Co • .. ·.. ... . . " 1 III. CONSTRUOTION PROBLEMS 0 • • • • • •. . . · . · . . · . .' • • • 2 BA.. MInaeinrtteiana nc•e• • • •• •• • · .· . , .... .· .. . • • • 22 C. Reflection ••.••• · . . . , • • • 3 D. Facility of Regulation • " . • • . , 3 · . E. Mobility. • •••• · • •. ... .,. 0 • 3 F. Leakage and Fric tion • • • • • • . 4 · ., .• 0 • • G. Motion Aspects .• • • ... .• .• · . · . . . 4 FLEXIBLE FLAP • • . • • • • • • • • • • • • 5 v. . . RIGID FLAPS. • • • • • .. · . . · , , .• • 0 6 A. Flap with Single Articulation · . . . . . ... ... . . . 6 B. Flap with Double Articulation .. " .. 6 · . . . . . . · . . . VI.· PLUNGERS •••• 7 VIL VARIOUS DEVICES 7 ',O."~"'9'O.O"'·"'" THEORETICAL STUDY OF A CERTAIN TYPE OF WAVE GENERATOR · . . INTRODUCTION • • 0 • • • • • • • • • • • •• • • • • • • · . . . 11 Ao Notations and Definition of the Problem Involved. 11 B" Previous Theories •• • • • . • • • • • • . . • • II Ir.. ANALYTICAL DETAILS ... • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 14 A. Analysis of a Homogeneous Problem (Boundary Conditions Without Second Member) • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 16 B. Finding a Particular Solution • • • • • • • • • • • • 17 C.Determination of the TIefinitive Function • • • • ••• 19 III,. DISCUSSION OF RESULTS,. • 21 0 0 • • •• • 0 • • • • ·• .• ·• .• • • • • A. General Evaluations •• • • • • • • 22 • • • '0 B. Analysis of Several Particular Cases • • • 22 10 Piston-type Wave Generator'. • • • • • • • • • • • • .22 a. Piston-type Wave Generator Producing Long Waves 10 0 0 0 • .- Co -0 c) ;- .. ~ ti' I) (I 24 b. Piston-type Wave Generator Producing Short . . . Waves 0' 0 -0 _ {I .. 0 • 0' • 0 .,. . . . 25 2. Flap-type Wave Generator • .•• • • • 28. ao Flap-type Wave Machine Generating Very Long Waves (L/h = 8) •• ~ •• • • • • • • • • • 29 b. Flap-type Wave Generator Producing Very Short Waves (L/h = 1/2) •••••••••.• . • • 30 IV. GENERAL CONCLUSIONS • •• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 31 v Page , PART II LABORATORY WAVE~ENERATING AFPARA,TUS INTRODUCTION 39 OO<)(J.O •• O •••• ,,~qQl •• O.O~o-q90000 · . . 40 CHAPrrER I~ WAVE~ENERATOR MarION' ASPECTS • • • " A. Motion wi. th Respect to Time • • • • • • ·• .0 40 B. Motion with Respect to Space • • • • 0 · . .• • • 41 G. Constancy of the Period • • • • 42 o 0 () 0 . . . . · . · . . · . CHAPTER II. WAVE~ENERATOR DESIGN ASPECTS , • • .' . 43 A~ Inertia • • • • • 43 0 0 0 • • • • •• B. Friction • • • • • • • • • • • • " " 01 44 0 • 0 • • 0. 0 • o • 0 • C • Maint en aDC e, • •••• • • • 0· 0. 0." 0'0. . . 44 'D. Reflections · . . 45 0 • •• • ••• E. Regulation • • • 46 · . F. Mobility. • •• . . • • . . . '47 1. Girder Support •• . . 47 01 • 0 0 2. Floating Caisson · .• .•o 0• • Q 0 47 3. Adjustable Elements •• · . . 48 4. Serpent-type Wave Generator • 48 CHAPTER III. OTHER ASPECTS • • • • • • • .'. . • • 49 A. Maintaining an Adequate Wave Amplitude 49 B. Diffractionr:. • • • • • • • • • • • • • 50 51 C. Irregular Waves • 0 • • • • • • • • • • • • D. Amplitude Variation Along the Wave Front ••• 52 E. Seiches and Surges ••••••••••••• 52 F. Transitory Regimes •• 53 0 ••••••••• CHAPTER IV. THEORETICAL CONTRIBUTIONS TO PRELIMINARY DESIGNS OF WA.VE 53 GE~TOR.S a 0 " fJ 0 0 0 • a 0 '" (2 • • 0 CHAPTER V. DESCRIPTION OF SOME INSTALLATIONS • •• .••• 54 .Ii.. Channel for t1;le Study' of Wave Physics • • • • • • 54 B. Model Basin for Oblique Waves ••• '. ~ • 0 o 0 0 0 55 C. Model Basin for the Study of the Physics of Three-Dimensional Waves •• ••••• 56 · . Do Experimental Results • • • • • • • • • • • .. 58 CHAPTER VI. ACTUAL TENDENCIES AND FUTURE PROSPECTS •• • • · • 58 0 ••• A •. Wave Generator Motion with Respect to Time 58 B. Irregular Waves • ' • o. ., • • 60 q 0 0 • CONCLUSION • , • . 60 0 AUTHOR is REMARK • • 60 00000"01.""0 0... .. . . . Appendix A - YJist of Symbols 63 ! • • • • " Appendix B - Notes and Mathematical Supplements • 65 o " • " .' Appendix C - Glossary of Terms Used in Illustrations • • " " 75 Appendix 1) - Figures 1 to 45 " • • " • " • ~ • • .' • • • • 77 Appendix E - Plates 1 to 16 (Figures 46 to 80) . • 0 0 "(I •0 ·95 .. ' 0 Appendix F - Synoptic Table of the Various Wave Generators •• • •••. 131 vi Figure ;Page PART I 1 Water Particle Displacement at targe Depth Relative to Wave . 79 ~ngth 0 (J 0 II I) 0 0 0 0 I) .. 0 0 0 0 • 0 -0 0 0 • 0 .. .. .. • " 2 lrater ~article Displacement at Shallow Pepth Relative to 1Vave Length 79 f.I 0 0 " (I () 0 C) (10 :0 I) • .. 0 - 0 • eo .. • t .. • .. • .. • .3 Flap-type Wave Generator with Single Articulation at Level Bed • • 79 4 Flap:-type Wave Generator with Single Artieulation at Sloping Bed ., -0 I) 0 0 .,. ~ (I • , 0- !> .. ..".0 0 0 0 0 0 • .. 0. 0 .. (. • -0 • • 79 5 Flap-type Wave Generator with Double ,Articulation at Level Bed 79 . . • 0 6 Plunger-type Wave Generator •••••• ," .•• . • • 79 . · . 7 Weber-type Pneumatic Wave Generator • • " • • " 80 0 • • 0 \.,. 8 . Deformation of Liquid Surface OA upon Passage of a Short Wave (L = h) • • • 80 0 • • • • • • .00000 • •• 0 ••• (100 9 Deformation of Liquid Surface OA upon Passage of a Longl'ave 0... • . 0 . . • . .( L =8h) 80 • .. .. .. ... .• 0 o 0. • 0 • 10 Reference Coordinate System • • • • • 80 ~ .. 0 0 • • ~ 0 • • 11 Graphical Determination of the Values of at Various Values (I... . .. . of L/h. 80 0 • • • • • • 0 O. • • • 12 Schematic Representation, of a Piston-type Wave Generator •••• 80 . .. ", :~ 1.3 Variation of Coefficients .• K and Kt as Functions of L/h • •• 81 14 Wave Deformation Near a Piston-type Wave Generator ProdUCing ShortWaves Relative to the Depth (L/h = 112) •••••• • • 81 15 Comparison Between Normal (Cross-hatched Area) and Inertia (Shaded Area) Pressures for a Piston-type Wave Generator Producing ShortWaves Relative to the Depth (L/h "" 112) 81 16 Reference Ooordinate System. . • •• • • • • .'. • • 81 0 • • • • 0 17 Comparison Between Normal (Cross-hatched Area) and Inertia (Shaded Area) Pressures for a Flap-type Wave Generator ProdUCing Short Waves Relative. to the Depth (L/h =1/2) .... 81 . \ ,\ PART II . . . 18 lfave Generator with Flywheel Mounted on Motor. Shaft •••• 82 19 lrave Generator Flywheel Mounted on Crank Shaft • • • o .. 0 .. 82 20 Pendulum-type 'Wave Generator • 83 0 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • .21 Wave Generator Detail Showing Hollow Strut and Connecting Rod · . Articulation . 83 Q .. • • • • 0 • • • • • 0 • • " 22 Wave Filter Consisting of Perforated Plates • 83 23 Grill Wave Filter •••••••••••••• 84 o • 0 • • • 0 vii ,F'igure Page 24 Gear Box and Rheosta.t for Regulating' Crank Shaft Sp~,ed • • 81~ 0 • • 0 · . 25 Neyrpic Balanced Crank • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 85 '0 • • 26 Wave-Generating ,Apparatus Mounted on a Girder •• 85 0 • • • • • · . 27 Wave Generator Adjustable Elements • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 86 28 Serpent-type Wave Generator • • • 86 o. • • 0 29 Diagram of Wave Action at a Harbor • • • • 87 QOOQ40 30 Guide. Wall at the End of a Wave Generator 87 ~ooooooooo 31 Wave Generator Transverse Oscillation Baffles .. 0 0 0 c) • • 87 32 Characteristics of a Wave Generator with Single Articulation • .• 88 33 Schematic Diagram of Wave Channel • • • • • • • • • • • • • 88 0 • • 34 Regulation and Control Mechanism of Pendulum-type 1rave Generator. 89 35 Details of Regulation Mechanism Shown in Fig. 34 89 0 • 0 • . . 36 Diagram of Model Basin • • 90 0 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • . · . 37 View of Wave 06nerator in Model Basin for Oblique Waves 90 · . 38 Construction of a Model Jetty •• • • • • 91 39 Actuation of Pendulum-type Wave Generator • • • • 91 40 Schematic Diagram of Pendulum-type Wave Generating Machine • 91 • 0 • 41 Driving Motor for Pendulum-type Machine 91 • 0 o • ~ • 0 a 0 e l 0 0 42 Curve Showing Agitation in a Circular Harbor at a Given Value · . of the Exciting 'Wave Period 92 0 •• 0 • 0 •••••••• 0 • 43 Curve Showing Agitation in a Square Harbor at a Given Value · . of the Exciting 'Wave Period •••••••••• 92 0 0 ••• 0 · . 44 Photograph of Agitation inaCirc~ar Harbor ••• 93 Ii .CI .0 .0 .4. 45 Schematic Diagram of ~ouble ,Actuation o • (I' 0 I) 0 93 PlATES 46 Photograph from Sines' Article in Engineering News-Record (Elubmi tted by the Author) •••••••• • ~ • • •• • • • • • 96 4'7 Design in Accordance with Photograpn in §!:~nce et Vie of 1916 • 96 0 48 Schematic Drawing of Installation at the Borgerhout Hydraulic · . Laboratory (Belgium) • .. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • , 98 49 Photograph of Installation at the Dauphin Hydraulic Laboratory (Ne~pi c) 0 0 Q - e- 0 0. (I' 1) 0 0 0 0 • 0 (I 1) e 0 0 0 0. 0 0 0 0 50 Photograph of Mobile Installation at the Dauphin Hydraulic Laboratory (Neyrpic). • • • • • • • • • • • 99 0 • • 0 0 0 51 Photographs of Multi-flap Arrangement at the Delft Hydraulic Laboratory (Netherlands) 99· 0 • • • • • • • • • • •• 0·. • 0 • 52 Diagl'am of Apparatus Used at the Dresden Hydraulic Laboratory 102 viii Figure Page ~3 ' Photograph of Installation at the Beach Erosion Board • • 104 0 • • 0 ~4 Diagrams of Arrangement at the Keel Testing Basin (193~) ••• 106 0 ~~ Diagram of Installation at the HydrauliC Laboratories of the Denmark Technical University • • 108 0 • 0 0 0 0 • 0 0 • • • • ~6 Diagram Showing Wave Generator lJisplacements 108 0 0 0 •• 0 0,0 •• Diagram Submitted by the Dauphin Hydraulic Laboratory (Neyrpic) • 110 ~7 58 Photograph Submitted by the Dauphin Hydraulic taboratory (Nsyr-pic) 0 0 0 0 Q (I .p 0 ~ 0 Q 0 (I t) 0 I) (I 1;1 (I Q 0 0 ~ c p (:I .0 110 59 Diagram Showing Wave Generator Displacements 110 . . 60 Diagram and Photographs of the 1Vave Machine • 112 61 Diagram Showing Wave Generator Displacements 112 0 0 0 0 • " «;II 0 62 Installation Design From Guido ,Article in Tecnica Ferro~s Italiana of November 1939 114 y 0... 0 • • 0 0 • • 0 • 0 • 0 63 Machine Diagram from BagnoldtsPaper in Institution of Civil Engineers of 1939; 114 0 • 0" 0 • 0 0 0 0 0 • • 0 • • 0 0 0 • • • 64 Diagram Showing Wave Generator Displacements • . •••• 114 0 • 65 Photograph of the Wave Generator •• . 116 0 • 0 • • 66 Machine Diagram from the ,Article by Bonnet and Lamoenin Annales des Travaux Publics de Belgique of 1948 • ~ 117 0 0 o (:I 0 0 67 Triangular 'Prism Plunger 117 o Q () 0 ·0 (I (I 0 ~ 0 0 0 0 Q -0 68 Photographs of Installations at the U S. Waterways Exper:iment \~ .. Station 0 118 0 \ 0 • 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 • 0 0 0 • 69 Photograph of the Wave Generator 120 o • 70 Schematic Diagram of Wave Generator Element 120 0 0 0 .• .0 71 Diagram of$ccentric Roller • 122 0 0 0 0 0 • 0 • 0 • 0 0 0 • • 0 72 Machine Sketch from the Dauphin Hydraulic Laboratory (Neyrpic) 122 73 Photograph of Roller at the Beach Erosion Board 122 0 ,0 • • • 74 Photograph of Installation at the Beach Erosion Board 122 0 0 ••• 0 75 Photograph ?f Installation at the Beach Erosion Board • 124 0 • 0 • • 76 Machine Drawing from Hydraulic Laboratory Practice of 1926-1929" 126 77 Photograph of Wave Generator Air Chamber Puring Basin Filling • 128 0 78 Pho,tograph of Wave Genera tor Ail' Chamber with Basin Full .. 128 0 79 Photographs of Installations at the California Institute of Technology 129 0 " • " 0 0 0 • " 0 0 " " Q 0 • • 0 " 0 " 0 0 0 80 Schematic Piagram of the Generator Shown in Fig. 79 129 Wa~e • 0 Plate Page 1 Flexible Flap Wave Genera tor . 96 0 • • ., • 0 0 • • 4 • • • • • • 0 0 2 Flap-tyPe Wave Generator with Single Articulation at or a Lit.tle Above the Channel Bed ~ • 98 0 • • • • • • • • • • : • • • • • •• 3 Flap-type Wave Generator with Single Articulation Above the .Free Surface " . tI • ., 0 0 ~ 0' • 0 0 • • • • • 0. $ • 0 It • 102 4 Piston-type Wave Generator • • • • • • • • • • • 104 • ,. • • Ii • 5 Flap-type Wave Generator of the Large Wave Tank at the Naval Keel Testing Basin in Paris • • • 106 0 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • I. • 6 Flap-type Wave Generator of the Copenhagen Hydraulic · . Laboratories • • •.• • • • • • • • • • • • •• 108 7 Neyrpic Pendulum-type Wave Generator • • • . • • • • • 110 8 Wave Generator of the National Hydraulic Laboratory at Chatou • • 112 9 Wave Generator at the london Imperial College of Science and Technology and the University of Padua • • • • • • • • • • • • • 114 10 Wave Generator of the Beach Erosion Board 116 . . . . . . . . . 11 Plunger-type Wave Generators • 117 .. • It _ '0 . . . · . 12 Serpent-type Wave Generator • • 120 • 0 • • . . 13 Eccentric Roller Wave Generator • • 122 • • 0 • 0' o • • 0 . . . . 14 · Paddle~Cylinder Wave Generator. • • • • • • • • • 124 . . . . . . . . 15 Paddle~eelWave Generator • • • • • • • • • 126 . . . · . 16' Pneumatic Wave Generator •• o • • 0 • • • • • • • • 128 x
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