Copyright © 2013 by Sally Melville Photographs copyright © 2013 by Potter Craft All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Potter Craft, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York. www.pottercraft.com www.crownpublishing.com POTTER CRAFT and colophon is a registered trademark of Random House, Inc. This ebook edition contains a bonus chapter by the author. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Melville, Sally. Knitting pattern essentials : adapting and drafting knitting patterns for great knitwear / Sally Melville.—1st edition. Includes index. 1. Knitting—Patterns. 2. Knitwear—Pattern design. I. Title. TT825.M4543 2015 746.43′2—dc23 2012015715 ISBN 978-0-307-96557-8 eISBN: 978-0-307-96558-5 Interior photographs: Rose Callahan Front cover photographs (clockwise from top): Rose Callahan, Andrew McCaul/Getty Images, Rose Callahan, Ocean/Corbis Back cover photographs: Rose Callahan v3.1 CONTENTS Introduction 1 Preparing to Draft Understanding Vertical, Horizontal, Diagonal, and Curved Lines Sweaters That Are Knit Flat Sweaters That Are Knit Bottom-Up A Clarification of the Shapes Covered How to Use the Shapes in This Book Essential Measurements and Standard Sizes Standards of Ease Swatching 2 Basic Shapes A Short Math Lesson Drop Shoulder Modified Drop Shoulder Set-in Sleeve Raglan 3 Shoulder Shaping, Back and Front Neck Shaping Shoulder Shaping Back Neck Shaping Neck Shapes and the Rule of 10 Straight (Boat) Neck Funnel Neck Square Neck V-Neck Round Neck 4 Hem Alternatives Diagonal Standard Shirttails Reverse Shirttails 5 Side Shaping A-line Hourglass Hourglass Shaping with Waistband Only Classic Hourglass Half-Hourglass Side Shaping at the Same Time as Hem Shaping 6 Sleeve Alternatives Sleeveless Shorter-Than-Full Length Sleeves Gathered Sleeves Bell Sleeves Puffed Sleeves Cap Sleeves Saddle Shoulder 7 Cardigans Cardigan Styles With No Front Overlap With Overlapping Front Bands With Overlapping Front Pieces 8 Fabrics, Finishes, and Fixes Common Stitch Patterns Selvedge Stitches Bands and Their Stitch Patterns Starting Bands—Bottom Bands and Cuffs Finishing Bands—Armhole, Front, and Neck Bands (Including Collars and Hoods) When Things Don’t Turn Out as Expected 9 Patterns Three-Bow Pullover Marsha’s Top Uptown Jacket Lace-Paneled Top Escher-Inspired Vest Bordered Lace Carrie’s Wrap Cee-Cee Wrap Bonus Chapter Five-Panel Tunic Rescued Raglan Working Woman’s Vest Heads-Turn Tunic Appendix Essential Skills Common Abbreviations CYCA Standard Yarn Weights Needle and Hook Sizes Ratios for Decreasing Ratios for Seaming Ratios for Picking Up and Knitting Resources Acknowledgments Index