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IS 8085-2: Methods of Test for Footwear, Part 2: Footwear Performance Test, Stiffness Test for Shanks, Lastometer Test for Cracking of Uppers; and Performance Test for Upper Fabrics, Coated Fabrics, Sock Lining and Other Lining Materials PDF

14 Pages·1999·1.3 MB·English
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Preview IS 8085-2: Methods of Test for Footwear, Part 2: Footwear Performance Test, Stiffness Test for Shanks, Lastometer Test for Cracking of Uppers; and Performance Test for Upper Fabrics, Coated Fabrics, Sock Lining and Other Lining Materials

इंटरनेट मानक Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information Whereas the Parliament of India has set out to provide a practical regime of right to information for citizens to secure access to information under the control of public authorities, in order to promote transparency and accountability in the working of every public authority, and whereas the attached publication of the Bureau of Indian Standards is of particular interest to the public, particularly disadvantaged communities and those engaged in the pursuit of education and knowledge, the attached public safety standard is made available to promote the timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public. “जान1 का अ+धकार, जी1 का अ+धकार” “प0रा1 को छोड न’ 5 तरफ” Mazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan Jawaharlal Nehru “The Right to Information, The Right to Live” “Step Out From the Old to the New” IS 8085-2 (1999): Methods of Test for Footwear, Part 2: Footwear Performance Test, Stiffness Test for Shanks, Lastometer Test for Cracking of Uppers; and Performance Test for Upper Fabrics, Coated Fabrics, Sock Lining and Other Lining Materials [CHD 19: Footwear] “!ान $ एक न’ भारत का +नम-ण” Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda ““IInnvveenntt aa NNeeww IInnddiiaa UUssiinngg KKnnoowwlleeddggee”” “!ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी च0राया नहB जा सकता हहहहै””ै” Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam “Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen” IS 8085 (Part 2): 1999 Wwiik? ~1’lcb $T17T2y@aw17rti5TRmwMPl,#f* it+mtm=m,wTT@F a-3$) m* fayaTer#k?T8wJ T;3i’hw#i*wRi, afkrmmvkiladi ma? Gkl=4ma?wPmimw&TRm tire” Indian Standard METHODS OF TEST FOR FOOTWEAR PART 2 FOOTWEAR PERFORMANCE TEST, STIFFNESS TEST FOR SHANKS, LASTOMETER TEST FOR CRACKING OF UPPERS; AND PERFORMANCE TEST FOR UPPER FABRICS, COATED FABRICS, SOCK LINING AND OTHER LINING MATERIALS r ICS i’1.060;19.020 0 BIS 1999 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR .SHAHZAFAR MARG NEW DELHI 110002 June 1999 Price Group 4 i Footwear.Sectional Committee, CHD019 FOREWORD This standard (Part 2)wasadopted bythe Bureau ofIndian Standards after the draft finalized bythe Footwear Sectional Committee had been approved bythe Chemical Division Council. I This standard prescribes the methods oftest for ascertaining the performance offootwear, stiffness ofshanks, the extent of influence of foot-pressure and flexing under conditions of normal-wear on the performance of uppers, particularly, the cracking ofupper ator near thevamp (the lastometer test) and performance testfor coated fabrics, socklining and other lining materials. From the users’ point ofview, comfort inwear and performance inactual use are the twobasic requirements of footwear, For this purpose, it is necessary that the finished footwear is suitably tested before it goes to the customer. Some ofthe tests for footwear prescribed in this standard can be done only at the manufacturer’s end, while others can be done both at the manufacturer’s end and at the user’s end. This aspect has been specifically mentioned for all the test methods prescribed inthis standard. Composition ofthe Committee responsible for formulation ofthis standard isgiven in Annex A. For the purpose ofdeciding whether aparticular requirement ofthis standard iscomplied with, the final value, observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance with IS2:1960 ‘Rulesfor rounding offnumerical values (revised)’. The number ofsignificant places retained inthe rounded offvalue should be the same asthat ofthe specified value in this standard. IS8085 (Part 2 ) :1999 Indian Standard METHODS OF TEST FOR FOOTWEAR PART 2 FOOTWEAR PERFORMANCE TEST, STIFFNESS TEST FOR SHANKS, LASTOMETER TEST FOR CRACKING OF UPPERS; AND PERFORMANCE TEST FOR UPPER FABRICS, COATED FABRICS, SOCK LINING AND OTHER LINING MATERIALS 1 SCOPE b) the separation ofthe outsole fromthe upper orfromtheplatformorseparationoftheplatform This standard (Part 2)prescribes the methods oftest from the upper atthe waist or at the forcpart; for footwear performance test, stiffness of shanks, lastometer test for cracking ofuppers at or near the c) the cracking ofthe platform atthe waist orat the forepart; vamp and performance test for upper fabrics, coated fabrics, sockIining and other lining materials. d) the cracking ordelamination ofthe back part of insole: 2 REFERENCE e) the breakage ofthe shank; The Indian Standard listedbelow contains provisions f) theseparation oftheinsolefromtheupper; and which through reference in this text, constitutes g) the cracking ofupper accross thejoint. provisions of this Indian Standard. At the time of publication, the edition indicated was valid All 4.2 Conditioning standards are subject to revision, and parties to agreements based on this Indian Standard are Condition the samples at 27 * 2°Ctemperature and encouraged to investigate the possibility ofapplying 65+ 5percent relative humidity for atleast 24hours the most recent edition of the Indian Standard before carrying out the test. indicated below: 4.3 Apparatus Is No. Title 4.3.1 ShoeFlexing Machine IS2050:1991 Glossary of terms relating to The machine showninFig,1oritsequivalent machine footwear (Jrst revision ) shall be used for testing. 3 TERMINOLOGY 4.3.1.1 The forepart ofthe footwear isheld down to Forthepurpose ofthis standard, the definitions given afixed platform and the heel ofthe footwear isheld inIS2050 shall apply downtoaflexingfrarnc.Theframemovesupanddown bymeansofamotor,crank flywheelandashaftsystem 4 PERFORMANCE TEST FOR FOOTWEAR at aconstant (adjusted ) angle. UPPER AND BOTTOM 4.4 Procedure 4.1 General 4.4.1 Adjusttheangle offlexing atthe required angle 4.1.1 .4pplicability of the Method (seeTable 1)byvarying theposition oftheconnecting rod in ihc crank fly wheel, as shown in Fig. 2. The This test is applicable to all types offootwear with footwear does notnormally flex more than 45°under cemented.wekd. mouldcdorinjectionmouldcd(DMS/ conditions ofnormal-wear. Mark onthe insole ofthe DVP/DIP ) soles. This is a destructive test and can shoethe average position ofthe balljoint ofthe foot. be performed both at the manufacturer’s end and at Themachinefootendandthelegendcanslidefonvard the user’s end. orbackward relative totheclamp. Adjusttheposition 4.1.2 The objective ofthis testis to measure: ofthe machine footand lcgin the footwear suchthat therear edgeofthefootaligns with theballjoint mark a) the cracking of the outsole at the forepart, and the flexing line ofthe footwear aligns with the ‘ between theforepart and thewaist and infront filcrum oftheflexingframeasjudgedbythe-eye.Clamp of the heel breast; the other odd of the pair also in the machine in the 1 IS8085( Part 2): 1999 cLAMP LEG FIG. 1 SHOEFLEXINGMACHINE FIG. 2 ADJUSTMENTOFANGLEOFFLEXING 2 IS8085( Part 2): 1999 Table1 Suggested Flexing Angles for Different 5.1General Styles of Footwear 5.1.1 Applicability of the Method (Clause 4.4.1) This test is applicable to all types of footwears and of all constructions having shank. This test can bc SI Footwear Style Suggested performed both at the manufacturer’s end and atthe Xo. Flexing Angle user’s end. (1) (2) (3) 5.1.2 The objective of performing this test is to I) [.adles (Plaljiorm .Ytyles) measure theflexural rigidity ofshank, acharacteristic a) clogs 10° which isameasure ofstiffness. ,~o b) Sandals, boots c) courts 20° 5.2 Apparatus d) Lace-up casuals 25°-30” 5.2.1 Shank Stiffness Tester ~!) I.adies (Non-plafonn Styles) Steel shank stiffness tester ( see Fig, 3 or its a) Sandals 35° equivalent apparatus )shall beused for testing. This b) courts 35” apparatus consists of an adjustable clamp (A), a c) Casuals 35” loading clamp @) and the deflection is measured. III) .Lfetland Boys (Platform Styles) 5.3 Procedure a) Slip-on casuals 25C b) I,ace-up shoes and boots 30° 5.3.1 Removethe shank from the insole and measure its dimensions, Fix the heel cnd ofthe shank tothe Iv) .ilcn and Boys (Non-platform Styles} adjustableclamp(A)in lCVCw1iththebackoftheclamp, 45,) a) Slip-on shoes and boots and fix itfirmly. This ensures that minimum 32mm b) Lace-up shoes and boots 45° of the shank is clamped. Fix the loading clamp (B) firmly tothe other end ofthe shank sothat the endof sameway. Angular scale ofthe pointer issetto zero the shank is in level with the forward edge of the byrotating the pointer knob. Check that the footwear clamp. Adjust the angle ofthe adjustable clamp (A) flexes inthe correct manner and to the desired angle sothattheshankishorizontal between thetwoclamps. by turning the flexing machine through a complete Adjust the dial gauge such that its end just touches flexingcyclemanually. the end ofthe loading clamp (B). -!.4.2 Setthetime switch offthe machine at60 hours 5.3.2 Apply 0.2 kgweight tothe hook ofthe loading and start the machine. Allow the footwear toflex for clamp (B). Wait for one minute and take the dial at least 50000 times, After the completion of the reading (al ). Remove 0.2 kgweight and wait forone required number offlexing cycles,removethefootwear minute, Add 0,4 kg weight and again wait for one fromthe machine and examine forthefollowing: minute. Takethedial reading (a2). Similarly, notethe dial readings after.applications of0.6 kg weight (aJ a) The cracking of the outsolc at the forepart, betweentheforepart, andthewaistand infront and 0.8kg weight (aA)for one minute each. of the heel breast; 5.4 Calculation b) Separation oftheoutsolefromtheupperorfrom The flexural rigidity (S ) of the shank in kg/cm2 is theplatform orseparation oftheplatform from calculated as: the upper at the waist or at the forepart; FlexUralrigidity (S), WL,3 .— inkg/cm2 c) Cracking ofthe platform atthe waist oratthe 3a forepart; where w= inerementent weight (200 g); d) Cracking or delamination ofthe back part of L, = insole; length ofthe shank (L) from the edge of rear clamp tothe rear edge ofthe loading c) Breakage of the shank; clamp + 1/2thedepth ofthe loading clamp f) Separation ofthe insole from the upper; and (that is,6mm ),incm; . g) Cracking ofupper accross thejoint. L+0.6 cm;and a . 1/10(3aa + a3 - a2- 3al ),incm. 5 -STIFFNESSTESTOFSHANKS 3 IS8085( Part 2): 1999 FIG. 3 STEDSHANKSTIFFNESSTESTER 6 LASTOMETER TEST FOR UPPERS 6.3 Test Sample 6.1 General Cutoutthesamplesfrom thevampportion oftheshoe. 6.1.1 Applicability of the Method Removethelining attached toitand clean thesurface. The test sample isadisc ofupper material of44.5mm This test isapplicable to the footwear uppers ofboth diameter and has two semi-circular cut-outs of3mm leather and synthetic materials. This isadestructive diameter (see Fig. 4). test and canbecarried outboth atthe manufacturer’s endand at the user’s end. 6.4 Conditioning 6.1.2 The objective ofthis testis toascertain whether Conditionthetestsamplesat27+2°Cand65+5pereent ‘ theupper usedinthe footwear isweakor hasvariable relative humidity for atleast 24hours before testing. stretch properties. Inboth these cases, the upper may 6.5 Apparatus crackundertheeffectoffootpressureandflexingunder conditions ofnormal wear. 6.5.1 Lastometer 6.2 Outline oftheMethod Lastometer (seeFig. 4)or its equivalent apparatus to measureloadanddistensionatthegrain crackforupper Test sample disc ofupper material isclamped round leather and loadand distension atrupture ofsynthetic its edge and mounted on the sample holding disk-of upper materials. thelastometer, (seeFig. 4).Thewheel isthen rotated tothrust ametal bulb of6.25 mm diameter on tothe 6.6 Procedure centre ofsample disc at right angles toitsplane. The moment the test sample starts cracking, the load and 6.6.1 Remove the cup nut and the clamping ring, and distension are recorded. turn the wleel until the distension gauge reads zero. 4 — IS8085( Part 2): 1999 a c) sAMPLE (WHEEL HOLDING o SAMPLE FIG. 4 LASTOMETER Place the test piece grain side up (for leather) onthe 7.4 Apparatus clamping head with the twopegs located inthe semi- Martingale abrasion tester oritsequivalent apparatus circular cut-outs, Place the clamping ring on the top shall be used to measure the degree of abrasion ofthe test piece and screw down tight, first byhand (seeFig.5),The machine shallhaveahorizontal base andthen byclamp, The reading onpointer ofthe load plateof 127mmdiameter, acircular clamp toholdthe gauge Mset tozero. The hand wheel isturned at the worsted fabric abrasive, specimen holders — four in rate of one revolution per second. number and a load to keep the specimen over the 6.6.2 When the grain begins to crack, stop rotating abrasive material. hand wheel and record the load and distension. Inthe 7.5 Procedure -caseof synthetic upper material note the load and distension when it ruptures. 7.5.1 Dy Test 7 PERFORMANCETESTFORC OATEDF~RICS, 7.5.1.1 Removethefourspecimen holders. Takeeach SOCKLININGANDOTHERLINI NGMATERIAL of the four specimen holder in turn, unscrew the 7.1 General knurled ring, insert the testspecimen and reassemble the holders by exerting the pressure downwards to 7.1.1 Applicability of the Method keep the test specimen flat. This method isapplicable toall upper fabrics, plastic 7.5.1.2 Lift offthe top frame of the tester. Unscrew coated fabrics, sock lining and other lining materials the wing nuts of the abrasive holder, lay new felt, and canbecarried outboth atthe manufacturer’s end replace the circular frames and nuts and screwdown and at the user’s end. tightly. Replace the top frame ofthe tester with the 7.2 TestSamples studs engaging the slots. The total load on the test pieceshall be0.68 kg. Cut four circular test pieces of45 mmdiameter each; two each for dry and wet abrasion tests. 7.5.1.3 Replace the specimen holders with the test specimen. Setthe counter to zero and switch onthe 7.2.1 AlSO cut four square pieces 127mm x 127mm tester. Run the tester and inspect the test pieces of standard wool fabric to act as mild abrasives for after 100,200, 400, 800, 1600 and 3200 cycles. The rubbing the test pieces in Lissajous pattern. damage toalltheupper materials isassessedasslight, 7.3 Conditioning moderate and severe. Condition the test pieces at 27 + 2°C temperature NOTE — In the case of combine fabric, assess each and 65+ 2percent relative humidity for 24hours. component individually. 5

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