IS 8085-2: Methods of Test for Footwear, Part 2: Footwear Performance Test, Stiffness Test for Shanks, Lastometer Test for Cracking of Uppers; and Performance Test for Upper Fabrics, Coated Fabrics, Sock Lining and Other Lining Materials

14 Pages·1999·1.3 MB·English

by  Bureau of Indian Standards

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IS 8085-2 (1999): Methods of Test for Footwear, Part 2:
Footwear Performance Test, Stiffness Test for Shanks,
Lastometer Test for Cracking of Uppers; and Performance
Test for Upper Fabrics, Coated Fabrics, Sock Lining and
Other Lining Materials [CHD 19: Footwear]
“!ान $ एक न’ भारत का +नम-ण”
Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda
““IInnvveenntt aa NNeeww IInnddiiaa UUssiinngg KKnnoowwlleeddggee””
“!ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी च0राया नहB जा सकता हहहहै””ै”
Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam
“Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen”

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Indian Standard
METHODS OF TEST FOR FOOTWEAR
PART 2 FOOTWEAR PERFORMANCE TEST, STIFFNESS TEST FOR SHANKS,
LASTOMETER TEST FOR CRACKING OF UPPERS; AND PERFORMANCE
TEST FOR UPPER FABRICS, COATED FABRICS, SOCK LINING AND
OTHER LINING MATERIALS
r
ICS i’1.060;19.020

0 BIS 1999
BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS
MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR .SHAHZAFAR MARG
NEW DELHI 110002

June 1999 Price Group 4
i
Footwear.Sectional Committee, CHD019
FOREWORD
This standard (Part 2)wasadopted bythe Bureau ofIndian Standards after the draft finalized bythe Footwear
Sectional Committee had been approved bythe Chemical Division Council.
I
This standard prescribes the methods oftest for ascertaining the performance offootwear, stiffness ofshanks,
the extent of influence of foot-pressure and flexing under conditions of normal-wear on the performance of
uppers, particularly, the cracking ofupper ator near thevamp (the lastometer test) and performance testfor
coated fabrics, socklining and other lining materials.
From the users’ point ofview, comfort inwear and performance inactual use are the twobasic requirements of
footwear, For this purpose, it is necessary that the finished footwear is suitably tested before it goes to the
customer.
Some ofthe tests for footwear prescribed in this standard can be done only at the manufacturer’s end, while
others can be done both at the manufacturer’s end and at the user’s end. This aspect has been specifically
mentioned for all the test methods prescribed inthis standard.
Composition ofthe Committee responsible for formulation ofthis standard isgiven in Annex A.
For the purpose ofdeciding whether aparticular requirement ofthis standard iscomplied with, the final value,
observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance with
IS2:1960 ‘Rulesfor rounding offnumerical values (revised)’. The number ofsignificant places retained inthe
rounded offvalue should be the same asthat ofthe specified value in this standard.
IS8085 (Part 2 ) :1999
Indian Standard
METHODS OF TEST FOR FOOTWEAR
PART 2 FOOTWEAR PERFORMANCE TEST, STIFFNESS TEST FOR SHANKS,
LASTOMETER TEST FOR CRACKING OF UPPERS; AND PERFORMANCE
TEST FOR UPPER FABRICS, COATED FABRICS, SOCK LINING AND
OTHER LINING MATERIALS
1 SCOPE b) the separation ofthe outsole fromthe upper
orfromtheplatformorseparationoftheplatform
This standard (Part 2)prescribes the methods oftest
from the upper atthe waist or at the forcpart;
for footwear performance test, stiffness of shanks,
lastometer test for cracking ofuppers at or near the c) the cracking ofthe platform atthe waist orat
the forepart;
vamp and performance test for upper fabrics, coated
fabrics, sockIining and other lining materials. d) the cracking ordelamination ofthe back part
of insole:
2 REFERENCE
e) the breakage ofthe shank;
The Indian Standard listedbelow contains provisions
f) theseparation oftheinsolefromtheupper; and
which through reference in this text, constitutes
g) the cracking ofupper accross thejoint.
provisions of this Indian Standard. At the time of
publication, the edition indicated was valid All
4.2 Conditioning
standards are subject to revision, and parties to
agreements based on this Indian Standard are Condition the samples at 27 * 2°Ctemperature and
encouraged to investigate the possibility ofapplying 65+ 5percent relative humidity for atleast 24hours
the most recent edition of the Indian Standard before carrying out the test.
indicated below:
4.3 Apparatus
Is No. Title
4.3.1 ShoeFlexing Machine
IS2050:1991 Glossary of terms relating to
The machine showninFig,1oritsequivalent machine
footwear (Jrst revision )
shall be used for testing.
3 TERMINOLOGY
4.3.1.1 The forepart ofthe footwear isheld down to

Forthepurpose ofthis standard, the definitions given afixed platform and the heel ofthe footwear isheld
inIS2050 shall apply downtoaflexingfrarnc.Theframemovesupanddown
bymeansofamotor,crank flywheelandashaftsystem
4 PERFORMANCE TEST FOR FOOTWEAR
at aconstant (adjusted ) angle.
UPPER AND BOTTOM
4.4 Procedure
4.1 General
4.4.1 Adjusttheangle offlexing atthe required angle
4.1.1 .4pplicability of the Method (seeTable 1)byvarying theposition oftheconnecting
rod in ihc crank fly wheel, as shown in Fig. 2. The
This test is applicable to all types offootwear with
footwear does notnormally flex more than 45°under
cemented.wekd. mouldcdorinjectionmouldcd(DMS/
conditions ofnormal-wear. Mark onthe insole ofthe
DVP/DIP ) soles. This is a destructive test and can
shoethe average position ofthe balljoint ofthe foot.
be performed both at the manufacturer’s end and at
Themachinefootendandthelegendcanslidefonvard
the user’s end.
orbackward relative totheclamp. Adjusttheposition
4.1.2 The objective ofthis testis to measure: ofthe machine footand lcgin the footwear suchthat
therear edgeofthefootaligns with theballjoint mark
a) the cracking of the outsole at the forepart,
and the flexing line ofthe footwear aligns with the ‘
between theforepart and thewaist and infront
filcrum oftheflexingframeasjudgedbythe-eye.Clamp
of the heel breast;
the other odd of the pair also in the machine in the
1
IS8085( Part 2): 1999
cLAMP
LEG
FIG. 1 SHOEFLEXINGMACHINE

FIG. 2 ADJUSTMENTOFANGLEOFFLEXING
2
IS8085( Part 2): 1999
Table1 Suggested Flexing Angles for Different 5.1General
Styles of Footwear
5.1.1 Applicability of the Method
(Clause 4.4.1) This test is applicable to all types of footwears and
of all constructions having shank. This test can bc
SI Footwear Style Suggested performed both at the manufacturer’s end and atthe
Xo. Flexing Angle
user’s end.
(1) (2) (3)
5.1.2 The objective of performing this test is to
I) [.adles (Plaljiorm .Ytyles) measure theflexural rigidity ofshank, acharacteristic
a) clogs 10° which isameasure ofstiffness.
,~o
b) Sandals, boots
c) courts 20° 5.2 Apparatus
d) Lace-up casuals 25°-30”
5.2.1 Shank Stiffness Tester
~!) I.adies (Non-plafonn Styles)
Steel shank stiffness tester ( see Fig, 3 or its
a) Sandals 35° equivalent apparatus )shall beused for testing. This
b) courts 35” apparatus consists of an adjustable clamp (A), a
c) Casuals 35”
loading clamp @) and the deflection is measured.
III) .Lfetland Boys (Platform Styles)
5.3 Procedure
a) Slip-on casuals 25C
b) I,ace-up shoes and boots 30° 5.3.1 Removethe shank from the insole and measure
its dimensions, Fix the heel cnd ofthe shank tothe
Iv) .ilcn and Boys (Non-platform Styles}
adjustableclamp(A)in lCVCw1iththebackoftheclamp,
45,)
a) Slip-on shoes and boots and fix itfirmly. This ensures that minimum 32mm
b) Lace-up shoes and boots 45°
of the shank is clamped. Fix the loading clamp (B)
firmly tothe other end ofthe shank sothat the endof
sameway. Angular scale ofthe pointer issetto zero
the shank is in level with the forward edge of the
byrotating the pointer knob. Check that the footwear
clamp. Adjust the angle ofthe adjustable clamp (A)
flexes inthe correct manner and to the desired angle
sothattheshankishorizontal between thetwoclamps.
by turning the flexing machine through a complete
Adjust the dial gauge such that its end just touches
flexingcyclemanually.
the end ofthe loading clamp (B).
-!.4.2 Setthetime switch offthe machine at60 hours
5.3.2 Apply 0.2 kgweight tothe hook ofthe loading
and start the machine. Allow the footwear toflex for
clamp (B). Wait for one minute and take the dial
at least 50000 times, After the completion of the
reading (al ). Remove 0.2 kgweight and wait forone
required number offlexing cycles,removethefootwear
minute, Add 0,4 kg weight and again wait for one

fromthe machine and examine forthefollowing:
minute. Takethedial reading (a2). Similarly, notethe
dial readings after.applications of0.6 kg weight (aJ
a) The cracking of the outsolc at the forepart,
betweentheforepart, andthewaistand infront and 0.8kg weight (aA)for one minute each.
of the heel breast; 5.4 Calculation
b) Separation oftheoutsolefromtheupperorfrom The flexural rigidity (S ) of the shank in kg/cm2 is
theplatform orseparation oftheplatform from calculated as:
the upper at the waist or at the forepart;
FlexUralrigidity (S), WL,3
.—
inkg/cm2
c) Cracking ofthe platform atthe waist oratthe 3a
forepart; where
w= inerementent weight (200 g);
d) Cracking or delamination ofthe back part of
L, =
insole; length ofthe shank (L) from the edge of
rear clamp tothe rear edge ofthe loading
c) Breakage of the shank;
clamp + 1/2thedepth ofthe loading clamp
f) Separation ofthe insole from the upper; and (that is,6mm ),incm;
.
g) Cracking ofupper accross thejoint. L+0.6 cm;and
a . 1/10(3aa + a3 - a2- 3al ),incm.
5 -STIFFNESSTESTOFSHANKS
3
IS8085( Part 2): 1999
FIG. 3 STEDSHANKSTIFFNESSTESTER
6 LASTOMETER TEST FOR UPPERS 6.3 Test Sample
6.1 General Cutoutthesamplesfrom thevampportion oftheshoe.

6.1.1 Applicability of the Method Removethelining attached toitand clean thesurface.
The test sample isadisc ofupper material of44.5mm
This test isapplicable to the footwear uppers ofboth
diameter and has two semi-circular cut-outs of3mm
leather and synthetic materials. This isadestructive
diameter (see Fig. 4).
test and canbecarried outboth atthe manufacturer’s
endand at the user’s end. 6.4 Conditioning
6.1.2 The objective ofthis testis toascertain whether Conditionthetestsamplesat27+2°Cand65+5pereent ‘
theupper usedinthe footwear isweakor hasvariable relative humidity for atleast 24hours before testing.
stretch properties. Inboth these cases, the upper may
6.5 Apparatus
crackundertheeffectoffootpressureandflexingunder
conditions ofnormal wear.
6.5.1 Lastometer
6.2 Outline oftheMethod
Lastometer (seeFig. 4)or its equivalent apparatus to
measureloadanddistensionatthegrain crackforupper
Test sample disc ofupper material isclamped round
leather and loadand distension atrupture ofsynthetic
its edge and mounted on the sample holding disk-of
upper materials.
thelastometer, (seeFig. 4).Thewheel isthen rotated
tothrust ametal bulb of6.25 mm diameter on tothe
6.6 Procedure
centre ofsample disc at right angles toitsplane. The
moment the test sample starts cracking, the load and 6.6.1 Remove the cup nut and the clamping ring, and
distension are recorded. turn the wleel until the distension gauge reads zero.
4

—
IS8085( Part 2): 1999
a
c)
sAMPLE
(WHEEL
HOLDING
o
SAMPLE
FIG. 4 LASTOMETER
Place the test piece grain side up (for leather) onthe 7.4 Apparatus
clamping head with the twopegs located inthe semi-
Martingale abrasion tester oritsequivalent apparatus
circular cut-outs, Place the clamping ring on the top
shall be used to measure the degree of abrasion
ofthe test piece and screw down tight, first byhand
(seeFig.5),The machine shallhaveahorizontal base
andthen byclamp, The reading onpointer ofthe load
plateof 127mmdiameter, acircular clamp toholdthe
gauge Mset tozero. The hand wheel isturned at the
worsted fabric abrasive, specimen holders — four in
rate of one revolution per second.
number and a load to keep the specimen over the
6.6.2 When the grain begins to crack, stop rotating abrasive material.
hand wheel and record the load and distension. Inthe
7.5 Procedure
-caseof synthetic upper material note the load and
distension when it ruptures.
7.5.1 Dy Test
7 PERFORMANCETESTFORC OATEDF~RICS,
7.5.1.1 Removethefourspecimen holders. Takeeach
SOCKLININGANDOTHERLINI NGMATERIAL
of the four specimen holder in turn, unscrew the
7.1 General knurled ring, insert the testspecimen and reassemble
the holders by exerting the pressure downwards to
7.1.1 Applicability of the Method keep the test specimen flat.
This method isapplicable toall upper fabrics, plastic
7.5.1.2 Lift offthe top frame of the tester. Unscrew
coated fabrics, sock lining and other lining materials
the wing nuts of the abrasive holder, lay new felt,
and canbecarried outboth atthe manufacturer’s end
replace the circular frames and nuts and screwdown
and at the user’s end.
tightly. Replace the top frame ofthe tester with the
7.2 TestSamples studs engaging the slots. The total load on the test
pieceshall be0.68 kg.
Cut four circular test pieces of45 mmdiameter each;
two each for dry and wet abrasion tests. 7.5.1.3 Replace the specimen holders with the test
specimen. Setthe counter to zero and switch onthe
7.2.1 AlSO cut four square pieces 127mm x 127mm
tester. Run the tester and inspect the test pieces
of standard wool fabric to act as mild abrasives for
after 100,200, 400, 800, 1600 and 3200 cycles. The
rubbing the test pieces in Lissajous pattern.
damage toalltheupper materials isassessedasslight,
7.3 Conditioning moderate and severe.
Condition the test pieces at 27 + 2°C temperature NOTE — In the case of combine fabric, assess each
and 65+ 2percent relative humidity for 24hours. component individually.
5