How to Use, Adapt and Design Sewing Patterns

145 Pages·2010·15.29 MB·English

by  Lee Hollahan

How to
Use,
Adapt
and
Design
Sewing
Patterns
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How to
Use,
Adapt
and
Design
Sewing
Patterns
Lee Hollahan
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Published in 2010 by
A&C Black Publishers
36 Soho Square
London W1D 3QY
www.acblack.com
ISBN 978-1-4081-2000-2
Copyright © 2010 Quarto plc
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may
be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic,
electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,
recording, taping, information storage and retrieval
systems – without the prior permission in writing of
the publisher.
A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.
QUAR.USP
Conceived, designed and produced by:
Quarto Publishing plc
The Old Brewery
6 Blundell Street
London N7 9BH
Senior editor: Lindsay Kaubi
Additional text: Sandra Wilson
Copy editor: Liz Dalby
Art editor and designer: Susi Martin
Art director: Caroline Guest
Design assistant: Saffron Stocker
Photographer: Philip Wilkins
Illustrator: Sha Tahmasebi, Chris Taylor, Katie Buglass
Picture researcher: Sarah Bell
Creative director: Moira Clinch
Publisher: Paul Carslake
Colour separation by PICA Digital Pte Ltd in Singapore
Printed in Singapore by Star Standard Industries (PTE) Ltd
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
About this book 6 Chapter 4: Designing your
own patterns 62
Creating your own pattern 64
Chapter 1: Tools and materials 8
Using pattern blocks 66
Essential equipment 10
Making and fitting a toile 68
Choosing fabrics 14
Advanced pattern alterations 72
Chapter 2: All about Designing patterns 80
commercial patterns 18
Simple dart manipulation 84
Why use a commercial pattern? 20
Styling sleeves and cuffs 88
How to measure accurately 22
Styling skirts 93
Buying a commercial pattern 26
Styling dresses 96
Understanding your pattern 28
Collar styles 100
Preparing a commercial pattern 30
Facings and waistbands 105
Preparing your fabric 34
Pocket styles 108
Pinning, marking and cutting out 42
Chapter 5: The pattern blocks 110
Chapter 3: Altering a pattern 46
UK SIZE 8 pattern blocks 112
Simple alterations for
UK SIZE 10 pattern blocks 114
commercial patterns 48
UK SIZE 12 pattern blocks 116
Simple bodice alterations 50
UK SIZE 14 pattern blocks 118
Simple sleeve alterations 56
UK SIZE 16 pattern blocks 120
Simple skirt alterations 57
UK SIZE 18 pattern blocks 122
Simple dress alterations 60
UK SIZE 20 pattern blocks 124
Simple trouser alterations 61
Chapter 6: Core sewing techniques 126
Glossary 140
Index 142
Credits 144
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6
About this book
14 Tools and materials Choosing fabrics 15
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adapting commercial sewing Upisnes wwehiegnh tcsu itntsintgea dde onifm . Ccesehnoaesnmucsrkiseds e atohrn fedt hgs eeoin pgsmethranaiptimncegh,s s aa.antn dd Mdoicerso nfiborte c dlinragp oers cwreealls, ea.nd Tvrineah frtelyeh cecdt osesl aopomuenrne diot d,ifn sidrgoeu copctniuioo thnn ao .slwli lp klii gecchaetn s
patterns to suit your body, and then
moves on to explain how to create UUSSPP 000088--001177 cUoKrr_e.icntdiodn s _1.4indd 14 1111//1168//0099 61::4138::2347 PAMM UUSSPP 000088--001177 cUoKrr_e.icntdiodn s _1.5indd 15 1111/2/148/0/099 1 12::1381::4036 APMM
Tools and materials (pages 8–17)
your own patterns using the pattern
Here you’ll find a useful guide to the essential pattern
blocks provided in chapter 5. cutter’s tools and materials and the different types of thread
available. There is also a directory of fabric types, with
comprehensive information on fabric qualities and uses.
Use
22 All about commercial patterns How to measure accurately 23
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Mrea-mrke aalsl uyroeu irf myoeuars buoredmy ecnhtasn dgoews nsh: arepme eomvebre tri mtoe . ready to buy a pattern based on your figure shape to
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10 CB shoulder to waist 42cm (161⁄2in)
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15 CB waist to floor 104cm (41in)
16 Upper arm 34cm (131⁄2in)
17 Arm length 56.5cm (221⁄4in)
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60 Altering a pattern Simple dress alterations• Simple trouser alterations 61
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tahbeo bveo dayn, da sb ethloisw ty tphee owf agiastr.m ent covers two alteration points: Ubesfeo rthee, rleemngetmhebne rainngd tsoh aolrtteern t hlien es aams e
amount front and back.
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need to make some alterations
in order to get the perfect fit. In DressL eSbnhegofotrhrteee nnaeeltdde rddarrteeiossnss 2 Draw a pencil line.
this chapter, you’ll learn how to
make the most commonly used
alterations to commercial
patterns in order to improve d2r eMsesa bsyu.re the amount to shorten the 3 Draw a parallel pencil line. a4m Mouanket, aa ncdre saesceu, rfeo lidt wdiothw nta tphee. required 3gworn iatA heinl iigtt ahlninpe eterh ,.s eCTid roFiemt .ho ero rCf fp Btah,t etae nerndx cpseeisecscu eprsea tptohe ert mhe Trousers made shorter Trousers made longer
the fit of your garments.
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A b o u t t h i s b o o k 7
80 Designing your own patterns Designing patterns 81
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using the pattern blocks provided with the book,
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111166 The pattern blocks UK SIZE 12 pattern blocks 111177
The pattern blocks DACB1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 --20 2 1 BFr2ao2cn k2t 3bb oo24dd ii2cc5ee 26 27 --28 2BF9r ao3cn0k t ss3k1k iirr3tt2 33 34 3-5 3 6 S3l7e e3v8e 39 40 41 42Up 43aK 4t 4tS e4I5rZ n4E6 b1472l o48c k49s 50 51 Ss5ce2ae l S5ep3c aua5gp4le e :5t h516 e6s5 q6 p fuoa5a7rt rtie5en8 r s=n5t r91bu sl6coq0t icuo6ka1ns rs.e6 2 oc mn63 h6o4 w65 t o6 6 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 DACB
E E
F F
(pages 110–125) GH Grain line • 20cm (8in) GH The blocks
I I
Ipna tthteisrn s ebcloticokns yfoour ’all fsinkidrt ,b asic MNKLJ Fold lineMNKLJ aorne ala gidri do uwt ith
O O
bodice, and sleeves in UK QP QP squares that
sizes 8–20 (US 6–18). Scale RST Grain line RST represent 1cm
tgpTahareneiidrdl osb ortulo ontsh ceamek liwmsaz ekhu etdapo t y p ufoyiatsou tiyuntroe gourlen wrtah fbnriegnl o uecrdke s . GHDACKBEFWLJUXVZYIIJKLABCDEFGH Grain line • 20cm (8in) Grain line • 20cm (8in) GHDACKBEFWLJUXZVYIABCDEFGHIJKL ytopt(3rro⁄fiaa8e iutncnch is)ecne,f sage sp nr otp ao t eatht thappeeasae rltintril nt.y e ersn
in the previous chapter to MM Grain line • 20cm (8in) MM
NN NN
OO OO
design your own patterns. QPPQ QPPQ
RR RR
SS SS
TT TT
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80
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The different pattern pieces are colour
The numbered grid helps you to keep
coded, so that it’s easy for you to
track of where you are when transferring
scale up the specific piece you need.
your design to pattern paper.
128 Core sewing techniques Core sewing techniques 129
Core sewing Plain seam Flat-fell seam
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UUSSPP 000011--000077 UcoKr_re.icntdiodn s _7.indd 7 1111//2255//0099 22::5109::2344 PPMM
UUSSPP 000088--001177 cUoKr_re.icntdiodn s _8.indd 8 1111/1/186/0/099 1 62::3288::1436 PAMM
Tools and
materials
In this chapter, you‘ll fi nd all the
information you need on the tools
and materials essential for sewing
and dressmaking. There is a guide
to useful equipment and a full
discussion on how to select the
right fabric for your project.
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