How to Read a Graveyard ALSO BY PETER STANFORD The Death of a Child (edited) The Extra Mile: A 21sl Century Pilgrimage C Day-Lewis: A Life Why I Am Still A Catholic (edited) Heaven: A Travellers’ Guide to the Undiscovered Country Bronwen Astor: Her Life and Times The She-Pope The Devil: A Biography The Outcasts’ Outcast: A Life of Lord Longford Cardinal Hume and the Changing Face of English Catholicism Catholics and Sex (with Kate Saunders) Believing Bishops (with Simon Lee) How to Read a Graveyard Journeys in the Company of the Dead Peter Stanford B L O O M S B U R Y LONDON • NEW DELHI • NEW YORK • SYDNEY First published in Great Britain 2013 Copyright © Peter Stanford, 2013 The moral right of the author has been asserted No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the Publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews. Every reasonable effort has been made to trace copyright holders of material reproduced in this book, but if any have been inadvertently overlooked the Publishers would be glad to hear from them. A Continuum book Bloomsbury Publishing Pic 50 Bedford Square London WC1B 3DP www.bloomsbury.com Bloomsbury Publishing, London, New Delhi, New York and Sydney A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978 1441 17108 5 Typeset by Fakenham Prepress Solutions, Fakenham, Norfolk NR21 8NN For my brother, Martin, who showed me a wider world Contents List of illustrations viii Introduction xi 1 The Scavi, Rome 1 2 The Catacomb of Saint Callixtus, Rome 21 3 Saint Margaret’s Church, Burnham Norton, Norfolk 49 4 Greyfriars’ Kirkyard, Edinburgh 75 5 Père-Lachaise, Paris 93 6 II Cimitero Acattolico, Rome 117 7 Paddington Old Cemetery, London 143 8 Deane Road Jewish Cemetery, Liverpool i67 9 The Commonwealth War Graves, northern France iss 10 Chiltern Woodland Burial Park, Buckinghamshire 215 Grave Matters: a last word 237 An A-Z of how to read a graveyard 243 Acknowledgements 255 Index 257 List of illustrations Page 22: The Christ-Helios figure in the Julii Tomb in the Scavi, Rome Page 36: The tomb of Cecilia Metella, Via Appia Antica, Rome Page 41: The Catacomb of Saint Callixtus, Rome Page 45: Fresco in the Catacomb of Saint Callixtus, Rome Page 51: The view towards the sea at Saint Margarets Churchyard, Burnham Norton Page 67: The grave of Richard Woodget, master of the Cutty Sark, at Saint Margarets. Page 79: Gravestone markings at Greyfriars’ Kirkyard, Edinburgh Page 90: Mortsafes in Greyfriars’ Kirkyard Page 103, 105, 108, 112: ‘House-tombs’ in Père-Lachaise, Paris Page 125: The pyramid grave of Gaius Cestius, next to II Cimitero Acattolico, Rome Page 128: Keats’ grave in II Cimitero Acattolico Page 133: The Zona Vecchia in II Cimitero Acattolico Page 135: William Wetmore Story’s Angel of Grief’ in II Cimitero Acattolico Page 150: Boarded up mausoleum in London’s Paddington Old Cemetery Page 163 and 165: Graves in Paddington Old Cemetery Page 170: The restored Deane Road Jewish Cemetery in Liverpool Page 171: Deane Road Cemetery seen from above List of illustrations ix Page 182: The traditional symbol of the kohanim in Deane Road Cemetery Page 192: The pavilion at Etaples War Cemetery, France Page 193: The Sword of Sacrifice at Etaples War Cemetery Page 195 and 197: Graves at Etaples War Cemetery Page 211: The Indian and Chinese Cemetery at Ayette, France Page 213: The Monument to the Missing at Thiepval, France Page 217,222,235: Chiltern Woodland Burial Park, Buckinghamshire