"Foodie/chef groupies . . . who are more star-struck by the likes of Jacques Pepin than George Clooney, could easily devour this book in a single marathon reading session. But How I Learned to Cook is best savored in small bites—an essay here, a couple of essays there—to allow the page-by-page feast to linger a little longer." —San Diego Union-Tribune "How I Learned to Cook reassures us that the path to culinary fame is sometimes paved with kitchen fires, exploding fava beans, and unecstatic cherries jubilee." —Vogue "A collection of savvy, savory essays by 40 of the world's best chefs and food writers . . . who share their early triumphs, travails, and innovations as up-and- comers before they ascended to culinary stardom." —Elle "Entertaining and inspiring. The chapter by Chicago's own Rick Bayless alone is worth the book's price." —Chicago Sun-Times "A satisfying follow-up to Don't Try This at Home . . . This is not just a book for culinary school students or aspiring professionals—the inspiration in these chefs' tales works for the weekend cook as well . . . From cooking under the master French chef Paul Bocuse (Daniel Boulud) to deep-frying at the snack bar of the local swim club (Tom Colicchio)—cooks of every ability level will recognize the one constant throughout: passion for good food." —Book Page "Forty chefs representing notable restaurants all over the world offer a bit of humorous history on how they cut their teeth in the kitchen . . . the stories are entertaining and well chosen." —Publishers Weekly HOW I LEARNED TO COOK HOW I LEARNED TO COOK Culinary Educations from the World's Greatest Chefs Edited by Kimberly Witherspoon and Peter Meehan BLOOMSBURY Copyright © 2006 by Inkwell Management All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews. For information address Bloomsbury USA, 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010. Published by Bloomsbury USA, New York Distributed to the trade by Holtzbrinck Publishers All papers used by Bloomsbury USA are natural, recyclable products made from wood grown in well-managed forests. The manufacturing processes conform to the environmental regulations of the country of origin. "The Swim Club" is adapted from Think Like a Chef by Tom Colicchio. "That's Entertainment" is adapted from The Minimalist Entertains by Mark Bittman. Lyrics from "I'm Your Captain": words and music by Grand Funk Railroad. ©1970 by Grand Funk Railroad. All rights controlled and administered by Storybook Music. All rights reserved. International copyright secured. Used by permission. THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS HAS CATALOGED THE HARDCOVER EDITION AS FOLLOWS: How I learned to cook: culinary educations from the world's greatest chefs / edited by Kimberly Witherspoon and Peter Meehan. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13 978-1-59691-247-2 (hardcover) 1. Cooks—Biography. I. Witherspoon, Kimberly. II. Meehan, Peter, 1977- TX649.A1H39 2006 641.5092--dc22 [B] 2006027496 First published by Bloomsbury USA in 2006 This paperback edition published in 2007 Paperback ISBN-10: 1-59691-385-1 ISBN-13: 978-1-59691-385-1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2 Typeset by Westchester Book Group Printed in the United States of America by Quebecor World Fairfield As always, to Summer and Paul —K.W. To Hannah —P.F.M CONTENTS Introduction FERRÁN ADRIÀ The Big Red Book, or El Práctico JOSÉ ANDRÉS Boiling Point MARIO BATALI Country Living RICK BAYLESS Sweet Child O3 Mine MICHELLE BERNSTEIN One Fish, Two Fish CHRIS BIANCO Digging in the Dirt MARK BITTMAN That's Entertainment RAYMOND BLANC Extra, Extra! HESTON BLUMENTHAL Found in Translation DANIEL BOULUD Blanc Cassis ANTHONY BOURDAIN Ready for My Close-Up JIMMY BRADLEY Skull Man ANDREW CARMELLINI And the Winner Is . . . DAVID CHANG The Noodle Whisperer TOM COLICCHIO The Swim Club
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