HISTORY OF TEMPEH AND TEMPEH PRODUCTS (1815-2011): EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK

990 Pages·2016·13.42 MB·German

by  William Shurtleff

HISTORY OF TEMPEH 1
HISTORY OF TEMPEH
AND TEMPEH PRODUCTS
(1815-2011):
EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED
BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK
Compiled
by
William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi

2011
Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center
HISTORY OF TEMPEH 2
Copyright (c) 2011 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi
All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic,
or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews,
without written permission from the publisher.
Published by: Soyinfo Center
P.O. Box 234
Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA
Phone: [phone] Fax: [phone]
www.soyinfocenter.com [email protected]
ISBN 978-1-928914-39-6 (Tempeh)
Printed 9 Oct. 2011
Price: Available on the Web free of charge
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Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center
HISTORY OF TEMPEH 3
Contents
Page
Dedication and Acknowledgments.................................................................................................................................. 4
Introduction and Brief Chronology/Timeline, by William Shurtleff ......................................................................... 5
About This Book ........................................................................................................................................................... 11
Abbreviations Used in This Book ................................................................................................................................ 12
How to Make the Best Use of This Digital PDF Book - Search It! ........................................................................... 13
Map of Indonesia and Masked Lion Dancer ........................................................................................................ 15-16
History of Tempeh: 3,513 References in Chronological Order ................................................................................ 17
Contains 129 Photographs and Illustrations
Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ................................................................................................... 902
Last Page of Index ....................................................................................................................................................... 990
Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center
HISTORY OF TEMPEH 4
DEDICATION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Japanese translation and maps: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff.
This book is dedicated to Clifford W. Hesseltine, Hwa
L. Wang, and Keith H. Steinkraus (microbiologists); The We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at
Farm (Summertown, Tennessee) and KOPTI (Indonesia); Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in
Darwin Karyadi and Mary Astuti. collecting the documents, building the library, and producing
the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed:
Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore,
Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia
people from around the world who share a common interest, McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana
and in learning from them what is often the knowledge Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia
or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle
practice. We wish to give deepest thanks... Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt,
Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li,
Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman,
Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn
help to our research over the years, several stand out: Hsu.
University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park,
Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey. Maryland.
Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond,  For outstanding help on this tempeh book we thank:
California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller, Keith H. Steinkraus, Clifford W. Hesseltine, Seth Tibbott,
Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman. Amin Sweeney,Valerie Robertson, Allan & Susan Brown,
Cynthia Bates, Don Wilson, Laurie Sythe Paskin, Suzy
Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special Jenkins Viavant, Alexander Lyon, Betty Stechmeyer, Gordon
help on Slavic-language documents. McBride, Steve Demos, Sjon Welters, Michael Cohen, Luke
Lukoskie, Benjamin Hills, Gale Randall, Andy Schecter,
National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Lonnie Stromnes, Steve Fiering, Ike van Gessel, Sandor
Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry E. Katz, Mrs. & Mrs. Mustam, Manfred Warmuth, Robert
Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, Walker; Mary Astuti, Darwin Karyadi, Hermana, Flora Bwee
Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann, Hwa Yap, Ko Swan Djien, Bernd Drosihn, Kiku Murata,
Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson, Junko Ebata, Yasuko Torii, Makiko Kageura, Rustono, M.P.
Tanner Wray. Vaidehi.
Library of Congress: Ronald Jackson, Ronald Roache. Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon,
California, who has kept our computers up and running since
Lane Medical Library at Stanford University. Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web
would not have been possible.
Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library:
Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These,
Cartmill, Linda Barbero. of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff.
Harvard University’s Five Botanical Libraries (especially  This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the
Arnold Arboretum Library): Jill Gelmers Thomas. hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented
history of this subject.
French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California,
for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early
1980s.
Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center
HISTORY OF TEMPEH 5
INTRODUCTION
Brief Chronology/Timeline of Tempeh Worldwide. (Zentralblatt fuer Bakteriologie 14:623-27).
The word tempe appears to have originated in Central Java, 1912 – Dr. Ryoji Nakazawa, the great Japanese
in today’s Indonesia. It is not derived from Chinese (as are microbiologist, is the fi rst Japanese to study tempeh. He
the names of so many other Indonesian soyfoods) and it asks a person from Southeast Asia to bring him samples of
does not start with the prefi x tau or tao (as do tauci, tauco, tempeh and oncom (ontjom, made from peanut presscake);
taugé, taujiong, tahu, takua) (Astuti 1999, p. 2-15). he analyzes their microorganisms. He was working at the
Taiwan High Commissioner’s Offi ce Central Research
“In Javanese literature, the word kedelai (written as kedele Laboratory at the time.
in Javanese), was fi rst recorded in the Serat Sri Tanjung
manuscript, believed to have been written in the 12th or 13th 1926 – Dr. Nakazawa takes a research trip to Java and
centuries” (Astuti 1999, p. 3). Sumatra, where he collects 22 samples of soy tempeh and
oncom from various markets and small manufacturers. He
1815 – The earliest known reference to tempe is found in and Takeda analyze the microorganisms used and in 1928
the Serat Centhini manuscript. This document was fi rst cited publish “On the fi lamentous used to make ontjom and tempeh
for its early reference to tempe in History of Tempeh, by in the South Pacifi c,” in Japanese in Nihon Nogei Kagakkai
Shurtleff & Aoyagi (July 1984, p. 9; May 1985, p. 9), then in Shi (4:252-63).
The Book of Tempeh, 2nd ed., by Shurtleff & Aoyagi (1985,
p. 145, 169). The story in the manuscript is set in the reign 1931 – The fi rst English-language information about tempeh
of Sultan Agung (1613-1645) and the descriptions purport to appears in Vegetables of the Dutch East Indies, by J.J. Ochse
be of that time, so it is possible that tempeh existed in Java (p. 391). He describes the tempeh-making process in detail
in the early 1600s. and says that the mold used is Aspergillus oryzae.
A more detailed explanation and translation was given
by Astuti (1999, p. 4-15). 1936 – In about this year (according to van Veen 1962) a
group of missionaries from Travancore, a poor region of
1875 – The earliest known reference to tempe by a European southern India, wanted to make and introduce soy tempeh.
appears in the Javaansch-Nederduitsch Handwoordenboek, For 3 weeks van Veen gave them short courses in how to
by J.F.C. Gericke and T. Roorda. make tempeh. When the missionaries returned to Travancore
they made tempeh and it was fi ne “but the Indian population
1895 and 1896 – Two articles by the Dutchman H.C. did not have any interest in this unknown fermentation
Prinsen Geerligs (who lives in Java) usher in the era of product and the experiment failed.” This is the earlist known
scientifi c research on tempeh by European microbiologists introduction of tempeh to India.
and food scientists. The 1896 article (which is a German
translation of his 1895 Dutch-language article) is the fi rst to 1946 April – ENTI (Eerste Nederlandse Tempe Industrie),
spell the word “tempeh” (with an “h” on the end). It is also the fi rst tempeh-making company in Europe is founded by
the fi rst to give the name of the tempeh mold as Rhizopus a Dutch couple whose last name was Wedding; they had
Oryzae. learned how to make tempeh while living in Indonesia. The
But other early Western authors, especially the Dutch, origins and history of this company are shrouded in the mists
use the spelling témpé (Gericke and Rorda 1875; Heyne of time; it is not clear when they actually started (perhaps
1913) or tèmpé (Vorderman 1902; Stahel 1946). 1948) and when they started to sell the tempeh they made.
1900 – The Dutchman Dr. P.A. Boorsma, who lives in Java 1946 Dec. – The fi rst English-language article specifi cally
and did original laboratory tests, publishes the fi rst detailed about tempeh is written by Gerold Stahel, director of the
description (in Dutch) of the traditional Indonesian process Agricultural Experiment Station in Paramaribo, Surinam (a
for making Tempe kedeleh (soybean tempeh). Dutch colony). He wrote: “Here in Surinam, as in the East
Indies, most of the soybeans are consumed in this form.” This
1905 – Dr. Kendo Saito, a professor in the Plant Physiology was also the earliest known article about tempeh published in
Laboratory of the Botanical Institute at Tokyo Imperial the United States (in the Journal of the New York Botanical
University, fi rst describes (in German) and illustrates what Garden), and the earliest reference to tempeh in Latin
is today considered to be the main tempeh microorganism, America.
Rhizopus oligosporus. He did not, however, mention tempeh
Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center
HISTORY OF TEMPEH 6
1944 – Dr. Masahiro Nakano (age 37), one of Dr. ancestry, in Albany California (Shurtleff & Aoyagi, History
Nakazawa’s youngest but eventually best-known students of Tempeh (HOT) 1985, p. 39).
of microbiology, goes to Japan’s National Food Research
Institute (NFRI) (Shokuryo Kenkyujo) in Tokyo and creates 1963 – “Investigations of tempeh, an Indonesian food,” by
a Department of Applied Micro-biology. After World War II Hesseltine et al. is the fi rst scientifi c article to investigate
(starting in about 1946) Dr. Nakano and his student, Teruo many different tempeh cultures (including 26 strains of
Ohta, introduce tempeh to Japan. They are the fi rst to make Rhizopus) and to select one strain (NRRL 2710) as being best
and serve tempeh in Japan and they wrote numerous articles suited for making tempeh from soybeans. They later fi nd it
about this food (Nakano 1959; Ohta, Ebine & Nakano 1964; is also best for making tempeh from cereal grains, and from
Ohta 1965, Nakano 1967, Ohta 1971; Watanabe, Ebine & mixtures of both. This strain soon becomes the fi rst choice of
Ohta 1971, etc.). tempeh makers, big and small, in North America. This 1963
article also contains the fi rst detailed discussion of tempeh
1950 June – P.M.L. Tammes (in Dutch) gives the fi rst starter culture in English.
detailed discussion of Indonesian starter culture (ragi) and
how ragi is used to make tempeh. 1964 May – The use of perforated plastic bags and tubes
as containers for tempeh fermentation is fi rst proposed by
1950 – Van Veen and Schaefer are the fi rst to spell the word Martinelli and Hesseltine in an article in the journal Food
“tempeh” in an English-language article. The fi nal “h” was Technology. This new idea and new technology is quickly
added prevent the word from being pronounced “temp.” transferred to tempeh makers in Java, where it becomes
The new spelling quickly caches on. Steinkraus et al. (1960) widely used.
are the fi rst in the United States to spell it “tempeh.” Most
Westerners feel that correct pronunciation is more important 1964 May – KO Swan Djien of Indonesia presents a 17-page
than correct spelling. However most Indonesians now spell paper titled “Tempe, a fermented food from soybeans,” at
the word “tempe,” which is the correct spelling in their the International Symposium on Oilseed Protein Foods, held
language. May 11-16 in Tokyo, Japan. It contains the most complete
information seen to date on tempeh, especially tempe in
1958 – Scientifi c research on tempeh in the United States Indonesia. The section titled “Preparation of tempe” contains
begins when Ms. Bwee Hwa YAP of Indonesia begins to the fi rst tempe recipes seen in English. Three common ways
work with Dr. Keith H. Steinkraus, a top microbiologist, and of cooking tempeh are given, with ingredients (but no exact
his Cornell group at Geneva, New York. The fi rst of their amounts) and procedure; no recipe names are given. It is also
many pioneering papers is published in Dec. 1960. the earliest known reference to the use of okara in making
tempe.
1959 Jan. – Firma E.S. Lembekker is founded in In this document, Ko is the fi rst to signal what he hopes
Amsterdam; it is Europe’s 2nd earliest tempeh maker. will be the beginning of a new image for tempe Indonesia:
“But there is no doubt that the time will come when
1960 – Scientifi c research on tempeh at the USDA Northern Indonesians will be proud of their tempe, in the same way
Regional Research Laboratory in Peoria, Illinois, begins as the Japanese are proud of their sake, the French people of
when KO Swan Djien arrives from Indonesia to study their wine, Italians of their macaroni, Indians of their curry,
industrial fermentation. Dr. Hesseltine, another world-class Russians of their caviar, the Dutch of their cheese, etc.”
microbiologist, encourages him to start by studying the Unfortunately, the paper was never published.
tempeh fermentation; he knows tempeh well but has never
studied it. The fi rst of their many pioneering papers was 1969 – Handelsonderneming van Dappern is founded in the
published in 1961. Netherlands by Robert van Dappern, with the help of his
Dutch father (Herman), his Indonesian mother (Aveline),
1960s – Another center of tempeh research in Japan develops and Dutch-Indonesian wife. He paid the Dutch-Indonesian
during the early 1960s at the Food and Nutrition Laboratory, sailor (who had founded Firma ENTI) a substantial sum of
in the Faculty of Science of Living, at Osaka City University. money to teach him how to make tempeh. By 1970 they
Early research there (on antioxidants in tempeh) is done were making tempeh in a small warehouse in Rotterdam. By
by Dr. Kiku Murata, Dr. Hideo Ikehata, and co-workers. 1972 or 1973 they moved the thriving company to Kerkrade,
Between 1964 and 1980 Dr. Murata is the senior author of in southern Holland near the family home in Heerlen, and
eight publications on tempeh and co-author of fi ve others. started mass production. By mid-1982 the company was
making 6,000 to 8,000 lb/week of tempeh, making it the
1961 – The fi rst commercial tempeh shop in North American, largest tempeh manufacturing company in the world. In 1983
Joy of Java Tempe, is opened by Mary Otten, of Indonesian the company was renamed Tempe Production Inc. By early
Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center
HISTORY OF TEMPEH 7
1984 production had increased to 13,200 pounds a week. the differences between good and bad tempeh (with photos
showing each). It gives four recipes, including one for a
1970 – Cooking the Indonesian Way, by Alec Robeau, is “Tempe burger.” This is the earliest known reference to that
published in New South Wales, Australia. It contains four term. This leafl et was distributed with Cynthia’s tempeh
named tempe recipes, with the amount of each ingredient starter and “Fermentation Funnies” (cartoons designed to
given: Sajur oblok, Sajur gudek, Sajur kangkung, and Tempe help introduce tempeh). Thus in 1976, the Farm became
goreng. These are the world’s fi rst real tempeh recipes in a source of commercial tempeh starter (powdered, pure
English. culture), made by Cynthia Bates at the Tempeh Lab.
1972 Feb. – Introduction of Soybeans for Human Nutrition, 1976 Aug. – America’s fi rst Soy Deli, established in the
Republic of Zambia, by Dr. Thio Goan Loo, a 51-page report, Farm Food Company’s storefront restaurant in San Rafael,
is published jointly by the Government of The Netherlands California, features tempeh in Tempeh Burgers, Deep-fried
and the Republic of Zambia. A description of workshops held Tempeh Cutlets, and Tempeh with Creamy Tofu Topping.
at 8 places in Zambia in Aug. and Sept. 1971, it introduces The fi rst tempeh dishes sold in an Americans-style restaurant,
tempeh, tofu, soymilk, and other soyfoods to Zambia. This they are made from tempeh produced by Don Wilson in the
is the 2nd earliest reference to tempeh in Africa. The author is rear of the building (HOT, p. 44).
Senior Technologist at the Royal Tropical Institute, Dep. of
Agricultural Research. Amsterdam. It includes a recipe for 1976 – A.I. Nelson and L.K. Ferrier at the University of
making “Soy Steak (Tempeh)” at home. Illinois, Department of Food Science, develop a low-tech,
build-it-yourself soybean dehuller and hull separator. It
1972 – The Farm, a large spiritual community of several works well for making tempeh, is not patented, and was fi rst
thousand “hippies” in Summertown, Tennessee, starts used commercially in Feb. 1981 by Soyfoods Unlimited, Inc.
making tempeh for its members. Alexander Lyon is the in California. Also in Feb. 1981 an article about it by Steve
pioneer, soon joined by many other Farm residents. They Fiering (illustrated by Akiko Aoyagi) appeared in Soyfoods
start the fi rst Caucasian (though non-commercial) tempeh magazine.
shop in North America. They play a key role popularizing
tempeh in the United Sates and Canada (The Farm 1977 Jan. – A media blitz for tempeh begins in the United
Vegetarian Cookbook 1975). States with major articles in Organic Gardening (circulation
1.35 million), Mother Earth News, and East West Journal
1975 Feb. – Gale Randall starts the Indonesian Tempeh Co., (July 1978).
the fi rst Caucasian-run commercial tempeh shop in North
America, in Unadilla, Nebraska, making Soy- and Wheat- 1977 early – The Farm (Summertown, Tennessee) starts
Soy tempeh (HOT, p. 49). selling America’s fi rst commercial tempeh starter. It is made
by Cynthia Bates. In 1977 when Farm Foods was founded,
1975 Feb. – The Farm Vegetarian Cookbook, is published it took over marketing of the tempeh starter. They also sold
by The Farm (Summertown, Tennessee, 128 p.). It contains America’s fi rst Tempeh Kit, made at The Farm.
a section titled “Tempeh” (p. 60-62). This book played an
important role in introducing tempeh, soyfoods, and a vegan 1978 June – Robert Walker starts making Canada’s fi rst
diet to America. It is The Farm’s earliest publication that tempeh at a commercial kitchen his home in Port Perry,
contains a tempeh recipe (Indonesian Fried Tempeh). Canada. His inspiration came from an article titled “Tempeh,
a new health food opportunity,” by Robert Rodale published
1976 May – Mother Earth News publishes an article about in July 1977 in Prevention magazine. By early 1983 there
tempeh. This and a number of subsequent magazine articles were fi ve tempeh companies in Canada. All were quite small,
listed the USDA’s Northern Regional Research Lab. (Peoria, making less than 200 pounds of tempeh a week.
Illinois) as America’s only source of tempeh starter. Over
the next few years the Peoria group sent out some 25,000 1979 Feb – White Wave of Boulder, Colorado, launches
tempeh starter cultures and instructions and instructions for Soya Rice Tempeh, America’s fi rst multi-grain tempeh and
making tempeh, free of charge, to people and organizations the fi rst to contain rice.
requesting them; by 1981 the number sent out had reached
35,000. 1979 early – There are 13 commercial tempeh shops in
operation in the United States, 1 in Canada, and 4 in Europe
1976 July – “Tempe,” by Cynthia Bates, a 4-panel (blue (all in the Netherlands) (Shurtleff & Aoyagi 1979, p. 148-
on white) leafl et is published at The Farm in Summertown, 49).
Tennessee. It describes how to make 5 pounds of tempe, and
Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center
HISTORY OF TEMPEH 8
1979 March 11 – KOPTI, the Cooperative of Tempe and is the former manager of the Living Culture Department at
Tofu producers of Indonesia is founded, with Achmad Rouzi Ann Arbor Biological Center, Inc. (in Michigan) (Soyfoods,
Noor as director in Jakarta. By 1983 KOPTI had over 28,000 summer 1980, p. 4). In July 1981 GEM Cultures launches
members in Java; 72% of these ran home industries (HOT, p. Powdered Tempeh Starter (PTS).
26).
1980 Dec. – Turtle Island Soy Dairy, founded by Seth
1979 April – In Sri Lanka, from April to June, 1979, Dr. Tibbott, starts making soy tempeh inside the Hope Co-op in
Thio Goan Loo, a Chinese-Indonesian stationed at the Forest Grove, Oregon. Their next two products, launched
Royal Tropical Institute in Amsterdam, taught many people, in June 1981 are Tempehroni (herb-seasoned tempeh in
especially those associated with the Soyafoods Research sausage-like rolls), and Five Grain Tempeh (with soybeans,
Center at Gannoruwa, how to make and serve tempeh. rice, millet, sunfl ower seeds and sesame seeds); this is
America’s 1st herbed tempeh and America’s 2nd multi-grain
1979 June – Farm Foods (in Lanark, Ontario, Canada) starts tempeh (but America’s 1st multi-grain with three or more
making and selling tempeh. The main tempeh makers are grains). In Feb. In June 1981 – Soyfoods Unlimited launched
Susan and Allan Brown. They learned how to make tempeh a Soy & Rice Tempeh (using brown rice).
and tempeh starter at The Farm in Summertown, Tennessee.
1980 – The earliest known tempeh companies start in
1979 July – The Book of Tempeh, by Shurtleff & Aoyagi, Australia. The fi rst two to start were Dharma, part of Earth
is published by Harper & Row (New York City, 160 p.). Foods in Waverly, run by Swami Veetdharma, and a small
The world’s fi rst book devoted entirely to tempeh in any shop at Bodhi Farm, New South Wales, run by John Seed.
language.
1981 Jan. – Pacifi c Tempeh introduces the world’s 2nd
1979 Sept. – The Tempeh Works, founded by Michael tempeh burger – but the fi rst made and marketed on a large
Cohen in Greenfi eld, Massachusetts, starts making and scale; they quickly become very popular and widely imitated.
selling tempeh. It is the fi rst U.S. company to set up shop The company also sells the world’s fi rst vacuum-packed
in a commercial building strictly for the purpose of making tempeh. In March 1982 they develop a handsome full-color
tempeh. By Sept. 1981 The Tempeh Works was making poster advertising their tempeh burger.
6,800 pounds/week of tempeh.
1981 Jan. – Paul’s Tofu & Tempeh is in operation at 155
1980 March – Tempeh Production: A Craft and Technical Archway Rd., Highgate, London – the fi rst European tempeh
Manual, by Shurtleff and Aoyagi is published by the authors shop outside of the Netherlands.
(176 p.). It describes how to start and run a commercial
tempeh manufacturing company on any of six different 1981 Jan. – Soyanews (in Sri Lanka) introduces tempeh
scales. It is the fi rst such book written in the Western world. to its many readers, with a description of how to make
tempeh at home plus many recipes. Sun-dried tempeh came
1980 June – Noble Bean, founded by Allan and Susan to be called “soya karawala,” karawala being a popular
Brown, starts making tempeh in the heart of Toronto’s type of dried fi sh, which tempeh apparently was found to
Chinatown. They bought Robert Walker’s equipment. In resemble in texture and fl avor. By May 1981, tempeh starter
June 1985 they moved to R.R. 1, McDonalds Corners (near was available at SFRC (Soybean Foods Research Centre
Elphin), Ontario, Canada. Today they are Canada’s largest (at Gannoruwa). Soya Soya Karawala was fi rst introduced
tempeh maker. commercially in 1982, the fi rst of about 7 commercial
tempeh products made in Sri Lanka. Many subsequent
1980 Aug. – Island Spring (in Vashon, Washington) articles about tempeh were published in Soyanews.
introduces the world’s fi rst commercial “Tempeh Burgers.”
They are made on a small scale in individual round petri 1981 – Starting this year and for the next decade, Dr.
dishes. M.P. Vaidehi (of the Department of Rural Home Science,
University of Agricultural Sciences at Bangalore, India) did
1980 Aug. – Pacifi c Tempeh is started in Emeryville, a great deal to introduce tempeh to Indian villages and to
California, by Travis Burgeson. promote its use. She made her own tempeh, then did a study
serving tempeh curry and tempeh chips to 100 villagers and
1980 June – GEM Cultures, started by microbiologists 100 urban consumers. The two products were well received
Gordon McBride (PhD) and Betty Stechmeyer in Fort Bragg, (Vaidehi 1981; Vaidehi 1993).
California, becomes the fi rst source of “Living Tempeh
Starter” (LTS) in both Kit and Professional sizes. Gordon 1981 Feb. 15 – Valerie, John and Gary Robertson start to
Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center
HISTORY OF TEMPEH 9
make tempeh at Soyfoods Unlimited Inc. in their $100,000
state-of-the American-art plant in San Leandro, California. In 1984 July – In Japan the Tempe Research Society (Tenpe
June 1981 they launch Soy & Rice Tempeh and in Sept. 1981 Kenkyu-Kai) is founded in Tokyo by various friends of
Tempeh Burgers (marinated, non-fried, vacuum packed). By tempeh (incl. Dr. Kiku Murata and Mrs. Yasuko Torii)
Oct. 1982 they are running beautiful full-page color ads for as a membership organization (with annual dues) to
the burgers under the slogan “All the Sizzle.., None of the provide a forum for ongoing investigation, discussion and
Steak” in Vegetarian Times and East West Journal. popularization of tempeh. The proceedings of each meeting
were distributed to members.
1982 May – About 19,055 pounds of tempeh are being made
each week in the United States; a year later that amount has 1984 Nov. – Tempehworks, Inc. (Greenfi eld Massachusetts)
increased by 34% to 25,590 pounds (Soyfoods Industry and launches Lightlife Meatless Fakin’ Bacon (made from
Market, by Soyfoods Center). tempeh). The fi rst marinated tempeh strip, and a best-seller, it
was renamed Marinated Smoky Tempeh Strips in about April
1982 July - Cyril and Elly Cain start making tempeh in 1997.
Australia at Beancoast Soyfoods, Maroochydore, Quensland.
1985 March – The Book of Tempeh, 2nd ed., by Shurtleff and
1983 Feb. – Pacifi c Tempeh introduces Tempeh Lite, Aoyagi published by Harper & Row (New York City, 175 p).
America’s fi rst commercial okara tempeh; it contains 25% Appendix A, “A brief history of tempeh East and West” (p.
by weight of brown rice. Low in cost and high in fi ber, it is 145-56) is greatly expanded and updated (based largely on
marketed like fi sh sticks. History of Tempeh, 1984, 1985), as is Appendix B, “Tempeh
makers in the West” (listed alphabetically by state in the
1983 July – Travis Burgeson sells Pacifi c Tempeh to Quong USA and by country overseas). Marusan-Ai, which started
Hop & Co., a large manufacturer of tofu and soymilk that making tempeh in Japan in 1983, is now the world’s largest
had not previously made tempeh. Pacifi c Tempeh was kept tempeh manufacturer, making 15,148 lb (6,885 kg) per week
as the brand name for Quong Hop’s line of tempeh products. (p. 155).
By Jan. 1984 production has risen to 7,000 pounds a week,
making Quong Hop the largest tempeh manufacturer in the 1985 Sept. – The Tempeh Works is renamed Tempeworks,
United States, followed by White Wave (CO), then Soyfoods Inc., gets large loans, and introduces its fi rst non-tempeh
Unlimited (CA), then The Tempeh Works (MA). product – Tofu Pups: The Uncommon Dog (a meatless hot
dog whose main ingredient is tofu).
1983 – Starting this year, fi ve organizations deserve the
lion’s share of the credit for commercializing tempeh in 1986 Dec. 1 – White Wave of Boulder, Colorado, acquires
Japan: Torigoe Flour Milling Co. (started making and Soyfoods Unlimited, Inc. Each of the three Robertsons
selling tempeh in June 1983, the fi rst company in Japan to ended up owning 1% of White Wave. With this acquisition,
do so), the National Food Research Institute (NFRI), The White Wave becomes the largest tempeh maker in the United
Japan Natto Association, Marukin Foods, and Marusan-Ai States.
(Shurtleff & Aoyagi 1985, p. 153-55).
1987 April 1 – Tempehworks, Inc. is renamed Lightlife
1984 Jan. – In the United States, 53 companies are Foods, Inc. The company now makes Tempehworks Tempeh,
producing 34,675 pounds of tempeh each week at an average Tofu Pups (meatless hot dogs) and Cookie Heaven (ready to
retail price of $2.50 per pound; this is the equivalent of $4.96 bake cookie batter).
million per year (HOT, p. 59).
1987 – The Plenty Canada Soya Utilization Project (related
1984 March – Tempeh Cookery, edited by Colleen Pride, to but separate from The Farm in Tennessee) starts to play an
is published by The Book Publishing Co. (Summertown, important part in introducing tempeh to Sri Lanka.
Tennessee; 127 p.). America’s fourth popular book about
tempeh, it is the fi rst with full-page color photos. It becomes 1987 Sept. – Centro de Soya, Soy Dairy in San Bartolo,
a perennial best-seller. Solola, Guatemala, starts making the fi rst commercial
tempeh (named “Tempi”) in Latin America outside of
1984 July – History of Tempeh: A Fermented Soyfood from Surinam (a Dutch colony). The tempeh is made by Amado
Indonesia, by Shurtleff and Aoyagi, is published by the del Valle and his business
authors (81 pages, 375 references). A slightly revised 2nd partner, Philippe. Members of The Farm (Summertown,
edition is published in May 1985 (91 p.). Much of the above Tennessee) are instrumental in starting and maintaining this
history is documented in these books. company, and in introducing this product. By the mid-1990s
Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center
HISTORY OF TEMPEH 10
this company was renamed Alimentos San Bartolo.
2009 April – The Soybean Company in Kerkrade,
1991 Oct. – Jiangdou Nutritive Food Factory (Jongdou, Netherlands (founded by Robert van Dappern but now
Jiangsu province, China) introduces the earliest known owned by Angelo Croci, an Italian) is now the largest tempeh
commercial tempeh in China. Founded by Dong Min- maker in The Netherlands and in Europe. The company is
Sheng of the Dept. of Food Science, Nanjing Agricultural making about 15,000 lb/week of soy tempeh.
University, the product is named “Tempeh.”
2011 – Pasteurizing tempeh by using vacuum sealing for
1997 April – Dakini Health Foods Pvt. Ltd. of Pune / Puna, longer refrigerated shelf life. This has been taking place
India, starts making the fi rst commercial tempeh in India. since the mid-1990s, but it has been steadily improved.
The very successful company, founded and run by Seemo Refrigerated tempeh has a better texture and fl avor than
(Mr. H. Shapiro from Israel) and Khairava (Mrs. J. Spaelstra frozen tempeh, and requires much less energy use.
from the Netherlands) also makes two types of tahini, peanut
butter, hummus, and (in Aug. 1999) tofu (“soymilk paneer”). 2011 – People are increasingly becoming aware of the
They came to India to be at the ashram of Sri Rajneesh many important benefi ts of fermented foods and fermented
(Osho) in Pune. soyfoods, and of a “whole foods, plant-based diet.”
1997 – Mary Astuti (PhD, Gadjah Mada University, 2011 Oct. – Lightlife Foods, Inc. of Turner Falls,
Yogyakarta, Indonesia) presents a superb paper on the Massachusetts, is by far the biggest tempeh maker in the
“History of the development of tempeh,” with much new United States, followed by Turtle Island Foods, Inc. of Hood
information on the early history of tempeh, tempeh starter, River, Oregon, then by Hain (“Where good brands go to die”
and soybeans in Indonesia; it was published in 1999 (The – which now makes Westsoy Tempeh, which was originally
Complete Handbook of Tempe, p. 2-15). made by Steve Demos of White Wave and is probably still
made at the former White Wave plant in Boulder, Colorado),
1997 July – “Current state of the North American tempeh then (in the natural foods market) Surata Soyfoods (Oregon),
market,” by Seth Tibbott (founder and owner of Turtle Island Northern Soy / Soyboy (Rochester, New York), Rhapsody
Foods) is published in Reinventing the Hidden Miracle of (Vermont), Wildwood Natural Foods (Pulmuone, southern
Tempeh, Proceedings of an International Tempe Symposium California, made by Turtle Island), Bountiful Bean (Madison,
held in Bali, Indonesia (p. 28-35). It gives a good update of Wisconsin), Central Soyfoods (Lawrence, Kansas), 21st
tempeh history and the tempeh market in the USA from 1985 Century Foods (Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts), Sweet Earth
to May 1997. (Birmingham, Alabama), M Café, and Hearty Vegan (Texas).
2000 July 14 – Conagra, one of the world’s largest 2011 – How big is the market for tempeh in the United
food companies (with annual sales of more than $25 States?
billion), acquires Lightlife Foods, Inc., of Turners Falls, First, in the natural foods channel / market: Total sales of
Massachusetts. refrigerated meat alternatives for the year ending Aug. 2011
were at least $51.6 million.
2000 – Rustono, who was born in Java, Indonesia, starts to 19.3% of this was refrigerated tempeh (up 14.0% over the
make tempeh in Japan – but he sells it only to Indonesians. previous year).
He lives in a Japanese village about an hour’s drive from Second, in the mainstream / mass market (including
Kyoto with his wife and two children. On 3 Oct. 2003 he conventional supermarket chains): Sales of refrigerated meat
starts to make tempeh in Otsu, Japan – and for the fi rst time alternatives for the year ending Aug. 2011 were at least $65.9
starts selling it to Japanese. He soon becomes known as the million.
“King of tempeh.” (Sudiarno 2008; Rustono Oct. 2011). 4.47% of this was refrigerated tempeh (up 14.1% over the
previous year).
2009 March – Turtle Island (Oregon) launches the fi rst line
of marinated tempeh strips in three fl avors. Smoky Maple 2011 – Interest in and research on tempeh in the United
Bacon was added to this in March 2010. Turtle Island was States and Europe has enhanced the image of tempeh in
already in mass supermarkets in the southeastern United Indonesia.
States, but by mid-2011 the tempeh products were added
as line extensions in those accounts – especially in Florida,
North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia, in that order.
The Sesame Garlic and the Smoky Maple fl avors are the best
sellers in the line.
Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center