Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care

308 Pages·2009·3.03 MB·English

by  Avi Shai

Dermatology
SEcond
EdItIon
about the book…
The Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care describes the main types of treatments available for the
c HAnd BooK o F
skin, nails and hair, and explains how they should be used, with clear language and extensive
illustrations to highlight its points. This text is an indispensable resource, providing a wealth
o
of information for any professional in this field.
coSMEtIc
H
S
“Each chapter has an initial summary of contents, an overview and clearly labeled sections.
Bullet points emphasize important issues. The chapters are well illustrated with excellent M A
n
pictures and simple diagrams. This book succeeds in all respects and the authors should
be congratulated. It is well presented, clearly laid out, easily readable and authoritative. d
E
It applies science to cosmetic skin care and helps to debunk myth with rational argument based B SK In cAR E
t
on the literature. Every dermatology practice employing a cosmetic nurse should have a copy o
of this book and should ensure it is read. It should be essential reading for beauty therapists
I o
and on the reading list for beauty therapy courses.” – DermNet (of the first edition)
c
K
New features in the Second Edition: o
S
• updated information on active ingredients such as bleaching agents, retinoic acid, SEc o n d E d ItI o n
F
K
and a-hydroxy acid
• chapters on popular skin rejuvenation treatments such as botulinum toxin therapy, I
fillers, and mesotherapy n
• appendices on camouflaging disfiguring conditions, and nail fragility

• increased emphasis on preventative measures c
about the editors… A
AVI SHAI is Senior Dermatologist, Soroka University Medical Center, Ben-Gurion University of R
the Negev, Beer-Sheva, Israel.
E
HOWARD I MAIBACH is Professor of Dermatology at the San Francisco School of Medicine,
University of California, San Francisco, California, USA. His other publications include Informa
Healthcare’s Sensitive Skin Syndrome (2006), Bioengineering of the Skin: Skin Imaging and
Analysis, Second Edition (2006), Copper and the Skin (2006), and Cosmeceuticals and Active
Cosmetics, Third Edition (2005).
ROBERT BARAN is a dermatologist at the Nail Disease Centre, and former Head of the Shai
Dermatology Unit, General Hospital, Cannes, France. His other publications include Informa •
Healthcare’s Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology, Fourth Edition (2010), Onychomycosis, Second
Maibach
Edition (2006), The Nail in Differential Diagnosis (2006) and A Text Atlas of Nail Disorders, Third
•
Edition (2003).
Baran
Edited by
H100026
Avi Shai
Howard I. Maibach
Robert Baran
IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0
HANDBOOK OF
COSMETIC
SKIN CARE
IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0
SeriesinCosmeticandLaserTherapy
PublishedinassociationwiththeJournalofCosmeticandLaserTherapy
Alreadyavailable
1. DavidJGoldberg
FillersinCosmeticDermatology,ISBN9781841845098
2. PhilippeDeprez
TextbookofChemicalPeels,ISBN9781841842954
3. CWilliamHanke,GerhardSattler,BorisSommer
TextbookofLiposuction,ISBN9781841845326
4. PaulJCarniol,NeilSSadick
ClinicalProceduresinLaserSkinRejuvenation,ISBN9780415414135
5. DavidJGoldberg
LaserHairRemoval,SecondEdition,ISBN9780415414128
6. BenjaminAscher,MarinaLandau,BernardRossi
InjectionTreatmentsinCosmeticSurgery,ISBN9780415386517
7. AviShai,RobertBaran,HowardMaibach
HandbookofCosmeticSkinCare,SecondEdition,ISBN9780415467186
Forthcoming
8. JennyKim,GaryLask
ComprehensiveAestheticRejuvenation:ARegionalApproach,ISBN9780415458948
9. NeilSadick,PaulCarniol,DeborshiRoy,LuitgardWiest
IllustratedManualofInjectableFillers,ISBN9780415476447
10. PaulCarniol,GaryMonheit
AestheticRejuvenationChallengesandSolutions:AGlobalPerspective,ISBN9780415475600
11. NeilSadick,DianeBerson,MaryLupo,ZoeDianaDraelos
CosmeceuticalScienceinClinicalPractice,ISBN9780415471145
12. AnthonyBenedetto
BotulinumToxinsinClinicalDermatology,SecondEdition,ISBN9780415476362
13. RobertBaran,HowardMaibach
TextbookofCosmeticDermatology,FourthEdition,ISBN9781841847009
14. DavidJGoldberg,AlexanderLBerlin
DisordersofFatandCellulite,ISBN9780415477000
15. KenBeer,MaryLupo,VicNarurkar,WendyRoberts
CosmeticBootcampPrimer,ISBN9781841846989
IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0
HANDBOOK OF
COSMETIC
SKIN CARE
S E C O N D E D I T I O N
Edited by
Avi Shai
MD
DepartmentofDermatology,SorokaUniversityMedicalCenter,
Ben-GurionUniversity,Beer-Sheva,Israel
Howard I. Maibach
MD
DepartmentofDermatology,UniversityofCalifornia,SanFrancisco
SchoolofMedicine,SanFrancisco,California,U.S.A.
Robert Baran
MD
NailDiseaseCenter,Cannes,France
LineillustrationsprovidedbyMichalYerushalmi-Rahamim
IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0
(cid:2)C 2009InformaUKLtd
FirstpublishedintheUnitedKingdomin2009byInformaHealthcare,TelephoneHouse,69-77PaulStreet,London
EC2A4LQ.InformaHealthcareisatradingdivisionofInformaUKLtd.RegisteredOffice:37/41MortimerStreet,
LondonW1T3JH.RegisteredinEnglandandWalesnumber1072954.
Tel:[phone]
Fax:[phone]
Website:www.informahealthcare.com
Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmitted,
inanyformorbyanymeans,electronic,mechanical,photocopying,recording,orotherwise,withouttheprior
permission of the publisher or in accordance with the provisions of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act
1988orunderthetermsofanylicencepermittinglimitedcopyingissuedbytheCopyrightLicensingAgency,90
TottenhamCourtRoad,LondonW1P0LP.
Althougheveryefforthasbeenmadetoensurethatallownersofcopyrightmaterialhavebeenacknowledgedin
thispublication,wewouldbegladtoacknowledgeinsubsequentreprintsoreditionsanyomissionsbroughtto
ourattention.
Althougheveryefforthasbeenmadetoensurethatdrugdosesandotherinformationarepresentedaccurately
inthispublication,theultimateresponsibilityrestswiththeprescribingphysician.Neitherthepublishersnorthe
authorscanbeheldresponsibleforerrorsorforanyconsequencesarisingfromtheuseofinformationcontained
herein.Fordetailedprescribinginformationorinstructionsontheuseofanyproductorprocedurediscussed
herein,pleaseconsulttheprescribinginformationorinstructionalmaterialissuedbythemanufacturer.
ACIPrecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary.
LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData
Dataavailableonapplication
ISBN-13:9780415467186
ISBN-10:0415467187
DistributedinNorthandSouthAmericaby
Taylor&Francis
6000BrokenSoundParkway,NW,(Suite300)
BocaRaton,FL33487,USA
WithinContinentalUSA
Tel:[phone];Fax:[phone]
OutsideContinentalUSA
Tel:[phone];Fax:[phone]
Email:[email protected]
Bookordersintherestoftheworld
PaulAbrahams
Tel:[phone]
Email:[email protected]
(cid:2)r
CompositionbyAptara ,Inc.
PrintedandboundinIndiabyReplikaPressPvtLtd.
IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0
Contents
Contributors .... ix
NotesfortheReader .... xi
Acknowledgments .... xii
1. CosmeticsandCosmeticPreparations:BasicDefinitions . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
AviShai,RobertBaran,andHowardI.Maibach
2. SkinStructure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
AviShai,RobertBaran,andHowardI.Maibach
3. PrinciplesinthePreparationofMedicalandCosmeticProducts . . . . . . . 14
SimaHalevyandAviShai
4. SkinMoistureandMoisturizers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
AviShai,HowardI.Maibach,andRobertBaran
5. SkinCleansing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
AviShaiandHowardI.Maibach
6. CreamsandLiquidEmulsionsforFacialCleansing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
AviShai,HowardI.Maibach,andRobertBaran
7. FacialCleansingMasks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
AviShai,HowardI.Maibach,andRobertBaran
8. SkinAgingandItsManagement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
AviShai,HowardI.Maibach,andRobertBaran
9. Acne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
AlexZvulunov
10. SunandtheSkin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
DafnaHallel-Halevy
11. NetworksofBloodVesselsontheSkin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
MosheLapidoth
12. Cellulite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
RonYaniv
13. InjectionLipolysis:ANewMethodofBodyContouring . . . . . . . . . . . 102
FranzHasengschwandtner
14. Inflammation,Dermatitis,andCosmetics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
AriehIngberandAviShai
IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0
vi CONTENTS
15. SkinTumors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
AviShaiandDanielVardy
16. ActiveIngredientsinCosmeticPreparations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
GilYosipovitch
17. RetinoicAcid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
AviShai,HowardI.Maibach,andRobertBaran
18. (cid:2)-HydroxyAcids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
RonYanivandStanleyLevy
19. (cid:3)-HydroxyandPolyhydroxyAcids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
StanleyLevy,AviShai,andHowardI.Maibach
20. BleachingandBleachingPreparations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
AviShai,RobertBaran,andHowardI.Maibach
21. Astringents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
AviShai,RobertBaran,andHowardI.Maibach
22. PreparationsUsedinDermatology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
MarceloH.Grunwald
23. Liposomes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
AlexZvulunov
24. ChemicalSkinPeeling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
JosefShiri
25. LaserandLightTreatmentsinDermatologyandTheir
CosmeticApplications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
MosheLapidoth
26. FillersandSoftTissueAugmentation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
InesVernerandChristopherRowlandPayne
27. CosmeticUseofBotulinumToxin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
InesVernerandChristopherRowlandPayne
28. Mesotherapy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
EvangelineB.HandogandEncarnacionR.Legaspi-Vicerra
29. CamouflagingSkinLesionsandOtherDisfiguringConditions . . . . . . . 212
VictoriaL.Rayner
30. HairStructureandItsCare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
EmiliaHodak
31. Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
AviShai,RobertBaran,andHowardI.Maibach
32. HairConditioners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
ItzchakShelkovitz-Shilo
IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0
CONTENTS vii
33. MethodsforTemporaryHairRemoval . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
ZehavaLaver
34. PermanentHairRemoval:Electrolysis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
ZehavaLaver
35. Nails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
MarinaLandauandRobertBaran
Appendix1. ApplyingCosmeticPreparationstotheFaceandNeck .... 266
Appendix2. CamouflagingDisfiguringConditions .... 268
Appendix3. FragileNails .... 271
Appendix4. Glossary .... 273
Index .... 283
IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0
IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0
Contributors
RobertBaran EmiliaHodak
NailDiseaseCenter ProfessorofDermatology
Cannes TelAvivUniversity
France SeniorDermatologist
DepartmentofDermatology
MarceloH.Grunwald
RabinMedicalCenter
ProfessorofDermatology
Petah-Tikva
Ben-GurionUniversity
Israel
SeniorDermatologist
DepartmentofDermatology
AriehIngber
SorokaUniversityMedical
ProfessorofDermatology
Center
TheHebrewUniversity
Beer-Sheva
Chairman,DepartmentofDermatology
Israel
HadassahMedicalCenter
SimaHalevy Jerusalem
ProfessorofDermatology Israel
Ben-GurionUniversity
Chairman,Departmentof MarinaLandau
Dermatology
SeniorDermatologist
SorokaUniversityMedicalCenter
DepartmentofDermatology
Beer-Sheva
IchilovMedicalCenter
Israel
TelAviv
DafnaHallel-Halevy Israel
Lecturer,Ben-Gurion
University MosheLapidoth
SeniorDermatologist SeniorDermatologist
DepartmentofDermatology HeadofLaserCenter
SorokaUniversityMedicalCenter RabinMedicalCenter
Beer-Sheva Petah-Tikva
Israel Israel
EvangelineB.Handog
ZehavaLaver
Vice-Chair,DepartmentofDermatology
SeniorDermatologist
AsianHospitalandMedicalCenter
GeneralHealthFund
Philippines
TelNordau
FranzHasengschwandtner TelAviv
NetworkLipolysis-Scientific&Medical Israel
Director
MedicalDirectorofSpa-ClinicandTherapy EncarnacionR.Legaspi-Viverra
Center Consultant,Dr.VictorR.Potenciano
BadLeonfelden MedicalCenter
Austria Philippines