Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care PDF
Preview Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care
Dermatology SEcond EdItIon about the book… The Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care describes the main types of treatments available for the c HAnd BooK o F skin, nails and hair, and explains how they should be used, with clear language and extensive illustrations to highlight its points. This text is an indispensable resource, providing a wealth o of information for any professional in this field. coSMEtIc H S “Each chapter has an initial summary of contents, an overview and clearly labeled sections. Bullet points emphasize important issues. The chapters are well illustrated with excellent M A n pictures and simple diagrams. This book succeeds in all respects and the authors should be congratulated. It is well presented, clearly laid out, easily readable and authoritative. d E It applies science to cosmetic skin care and helps to debunk myth with rational argument based B SK In cAR E t on the literature. Every dermatology practice employing a cosmetic nurse should have a copy o of this book and should ensure it is read. It should be essential reading for beauty therapists I o and on the reading list for beauty therapy courses.” – DermNet (of the first edition) c K New features in the Second Edition: o S • updated information on active ingredients such as bleaching agents, retinoic acid, SEc o n d E d ItI o n F K and a-hydroxy acid • chapters on popular skin rejuvenation treatments such as botulinum toxin therapy, I fillers, and mesotherapy n • appendices on camouflaging disfiguring conditions, and nail fragility • increased emphasis on preventative measures c about the editors… A AVI SHAI is Senior Dermatologist, Soroka University Medical Center, Ben-Gurion University of R the Negev, Beer-Sheva, Israel. E HOWARD I MAIBACH is Professor of Dermatology at the San Francisco School of Medicine, University of California, San Francisco, California, USA. His other publications include Informa Healthcare’s Sensitive Skin Syndrome (2006), Bioengineering of the Skin: Skin Imaging and Analysis, Second Edition (2006), Copper and the Skin (2006), and Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics, Third Edition (2005). ROBERT BARAN is a dermatologist at the Nail Disease Centre, and former Head of the Shai Dermatology Unit, General Hospital, Cannes, France. His other publications include Informa • Healthcare’s Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology, Fourth Edition (2010), Onychomycosis, Second Maibach Edition (2006), The Nail in Differential Diagnosis (2006) and A Text Atlas of Nail Disorders, Third • Edition (2003). Baran Edited by H100026 Avi Shai Howard I. Maibach Robert Baran IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0 HANDBOOK OF COSMETIC SKIN CARE IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0 SeriesinCosmeticandLaserTherapy PublishedinassociationwiththeJournalofCosmeticandLaserTherapy Alreadyavailable 1. DavidJGoldberg FillersinCosmeticDermatology,ISBN9781841845098 2. PhilippeDeprez TextbookofChemicalPeels,ISBN9781841842954 3. CWilliamHanke,GerhardSattler,BorisSommer TextbookofLiposuction,ISBN9781841845326 4. PaulJCarniol,NeilSSadick ClinicalProceduresinLaserSkinRejuvenation,ISBN9780415414135 5. DavidJGoldberg LaserHairRemoval,SecondEdition,ISBN9780415414128 6. BenjaminAscher,MarinaLandau,BernardRossi InjectionTreatmentsinCosmeticSurgery,ISBN9780415386517 7. AviShai,RobertBaran,HowardMaibach HandbookofCosmeticSkinCare,SecondEdition,ISBN9780415467186 Forthcoming 8. JennyKim,GaryLask ComprehensiveAestheticRejuvenation:ARegionalApproach,ISBN9780415458948 9. NeilSadick,PaulCarniol,DeborshiRoy,LuitgardWiest IllustratedManualofInjectableFillers,ISBN9780415476447 10. PaulCarniol,GaryMonheit AestheticRejuvenationChallengesandSolutions:AGlobalPerspective,ISBN9780415475600 11. NeilSadick,DianeBerson,MaryLupo,ZoeDianaDraelos CosmeceuticalScienceinClinicalPractice,ISBN9780415471145 12. AnthonyBenedetto BotulinumToxinsinClinicalDermatology,SecondEdition,ISBN9780415476362 13. RobertBaran,HowardMaibach TextbookofCosmeticDermatology,FourthEdition,ISBN9781841847009 14. DavidJGoldberg,AlexanderLBerlin DisordersofFatandCellulite,ISBN9780415477000 15. KenBeer,MaryLupo,VicNarurkar,WendyRoberts CosmeticBootcampPrimer,ISBN9781841846989 IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0 HANDBOOK OF COSMETIC SKIN CARE S E C O N D E D I T I O N Edited by Avi Shai MD DepartmentofDermatology,SorokaUniversityMedicalCenter, Ben-GurionUniversity,Beer-Sheva,Israel Howard I. Maibach MD DepartmentofDermatology,UniversityofCalifornia,SanFrancisco SchoolofMedicine,SanFrancisco,California,U.S.A. Robert Baran MD NailDiseaseCenter,Cannes,France LineillustrationsprovidedbyMichalYerushalmi-Rahamim IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0 (cid:2)C 2009InformaUKLtd FirstpublishedintheUnitedKingdomin2009byInformaHealthcare,TelephoneHouse,69-77PaulStreet,London EC2A4LQ.InformaHealthcareisatradingdivisionofInformaUKLtd.RegisteredOffice:37/41MortimerStreet, LondonW1T3JH.RegisteredinEnglandandWalesnumber1072954. Tel:+44(0)2070175000 Fax:+44(0)2070176699 Website:www.informahealthcare.com Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmitted, inanyformorbyanymeans,electronic,mechanical,photocopying,recording,orotherwise,withouttheprior permission of the publisher or in accordance with the provisions of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988orunderthetermsofanylicencepermittinglimitedcopyingissuedbytheCopyrightLicensingAgency,90 TottenhamCourtRoad,LondonW1P0LP. Althougheveryefforthasbeenmadetoensurethatallownersofcopyrightmaterialhavebeenacknowledgedin thispublication,wewouldbegladtoacknowledgeinsubsequentreprintsoreditionsanyomissionsbroughtto ourattention. Althougheveryefforthasbeenmadetoensurethatdrugdosesandotherinformationarepresentedaccurately inthispublication,theultimateresponsibilityrestswiththeprescribingphysician.Neitherthepublishersnorthe authorscanbeheldresponsibleforerrorsorforanyconsequencesarisingfromtheuseofinformationcontained herein.Fordetailedprescribinginformationorinstructionsontheuseofanyproductorprocedurediscussed herein,pleaseconsulttheprescribinginformationorinstructionalmaterialissuedbythemanufacturer. ACIPrecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary. LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData Dataavailableonapplication ISBN-13:9780415467186 ISBN-10:0415467187 DistributedinNorthandSouthAmericaby Taylor&Francis 6000BrokenSoundParkway,NW,(Suite300) BocaRaton,FL33487,USA WithinContinentalUSA Tel:1(800)2727737;Fax:1(800)3743401 OutsideContinentalUSA Tel:(561)9940555;Fax:(561)3616018 Email:[email protected] Bookordersintherestoftheworld PaulAbrahams Tel:+44(0)2070174036 Email:[email protected] (cid:2)r CompositionbyAptara ,Inc. PrintedandboundinIndiabyReplikaPressPvtLtd. IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0 Contents Contributors .... ix NotesfortheReader .... xi Acknowledgments .... xii 1. CosmeticsandCosmeticPreparations:BasicDefinitions . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 AviShai,RobertBaran,andHowardI.Maibach 2. SkinStructure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 AviShai,RobertBaran,andHowardI.Maibach 3. PrinciplesinthePreparationofMedicalandCosmeticProducts . . . . . . . 14 SimaHalevyandAviShai 4. SkinMoistureandMoisturizers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 AviShai,HowardI.Maibach,andRobertBaran 5. SkinCleansing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 AviShaiandHowardI.Maibach 6. CreamsandLiquidEmulsionsforFacialCleansing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 AviShai,HowardI.Maibach,andRobertBaran 7. FacialCleansingMasks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 AviShai,HowardI.Maibach,andRobertBaran 8. SkinAgingandItsManagement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 AviShai,HowardI.Maibach,andRobertBaran 9. Acne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 AlexZvulunov 10. SunandtheSkin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 DafnaHallel-Halevy 11. NetworksofBloodVesselsontheSkin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 MosheLapidoth 12. Cellulite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 RonYaniv 13. InjectionLipolysis:ANewMethodofBodyContouring . . . . . . . . . . . 102 FranzHasengschwandtner 14. Inflammation,Dermatitis,andCosmetics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 AriehIngberandAviShai IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0 vi CONTENTS 15. SkinTumors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 AviShaiandDanielVardy 16. ActiveIngredientsinCosmeticPreparations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 GilYosipovitch 17. RetinoicAcid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 AviShai,HowardI.Maibach,andRobertBaran 18. (cid:2)-HydroxyAcids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 RonYanivandStanleyLevy 19. (cid:3)-HydroxyandPolyhydroxyAcids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 StanleyLevy,AviShai,andHowardI.Maibach 20. BleachingandBleachingPreparations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 AviShai,RobertBaran,andHowardI.Maibach 21. Astringents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 AviShai,RobertBaran,andHowardI.Maibach 22. PreparationsUsedinDermatology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 MarceloH.Grunwald 23. Liposomes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 AlexZvulunov 24. ChemicalSkinPeeling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 JosefShiri 25. LaserandLightTreatmentsinDermatologyandTheir CosmeticApplications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 MosheLapidoth 26. FillersandSoftTissueAugmentation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 InesVernerandChristopherRowlandPayne 27. CosmeticUseofBotulinumToxin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 InesVernerandChristopherRowlandPayne 28. Mesotherapy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 EvangelineB.HandogandEncarnacionR.Legaspi-Vicerra 29. CamouflagingSkinLesionsandOtherDisfiguringConditions . . . . . . . 212 VictoriaL.Rayner 30. HairStructureandItsCare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 EmiliaHodak 31. Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 AviShai,RobertBaran,andHowardI.Maibach 32. HairConditioners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 ItzchakShelkovitz-Shilo IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0 CONTENTS vii 33. MethodsforTemporaryHairRemoval . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 ZehavaLaver 34. PermanentHairRemoval:Electrolysis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 ZehavaLaver 35. Nails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 MarinaLandauandRobertBaran Appendix1. ApplyingCosmeticPreparationstotheFaceandNeck .... 266 Appendix2. CamouflagingDisfiguringConditions .... 268 Appendix3. FragileNails .... 271 Appendix4. Glossary .... 273 Index .... 283 IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0 IHBK035-FM IHBK035-Shai May9,2009 16:39 CharCount=0 Contributors RobertBaran EmiliaHodak NailDiseaseCenter ProfessorofDermatology Cannes TelAvivUniversity France SeniorDermatologist DepartmentofDermatology MarceloH.Grunwald RabinMedicalCenter ProfessorofDermatology Petah-Tikva Ben-GurionUniversity Israel SeniorDermatologist DepartmentofDermatology AriehIngber SorokaUniversityMedical ProfessorofDermatology Center TheHebrewUniversity Beer-Sheva Chairman,DepartmentofDermatology Israel HadassahMedicalCenter SimaHalevy Jerusalem ProfessorofDermatology Israel Ben-GurionUniversity Chairman,Departmentof MarinaLandau Dermatology SeniorDermatologist SorokaUniversityMedicalCenter DepartmentofDermatology Beer-Sheva IchilovMedicalCenter Israel TelAviv DafnaHallel-Halevy Israel Lecturer,Ben-Gurion University MosheLapidoth SeniorDermatologist SeniorDermatologist DepartmentofDermatology HeadofLaserCenter SorokaUniversityMedicalCenter RabinMedicalCenter Beer-Sheva Petah-Tikva Israel Israel EvangelineB.Handog ZehavaLaver Vice-Chair,DepartmentofDermatology SeniorDermatologist AsianHospitalandMedicalCenter GeneralHealthFund Philippines TelNordau FranzHasengschwandtner TelAviv NetworkLipolysis-Scientific&Medical Israel Director MedicalDirectorofSpa-ClinicandTherapy EncarnacionR.Legaspi-Viverra Center Consultant,Dr.VictorR.Potenciano BadLeonfelden MedicalCenter Austria Philippines
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