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Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology PDF

393 Pages·2012·20.86 MB·english
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(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:4)(cid:9)(cid:6)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:5) (cid:6)(cid:5)(cid:13)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:14)(cid:8)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:15)(cid:4)(cid:12)(cid:16)(cid:4)(cid:15)(cid:9)(cid:9)(cid:15)(cid:4)(cid:17)(cid:12)(cid:9)(cid:8)(cid:14)(cid:18)(cid:4)(cid:19)(cid:10)(cid:19)(cid:17)(cid:20) (cid:2)(cid:2)(cid:2) (cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:5)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:6) (cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:15)(cid:9)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:2)(cid:5)(cid:13)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:2)(cid:10)(cid:10)(cid:2)(cid:5)(cid:17)(cid:13)(cid:10)(cid:9)(cid:15)(cid:18)(cid:5)(cid:19)(cid:11)(cid:19)(cid:17)(cid:20) Sadhan Chandra Ray W OODHEAD PUBLISHING INDIA PVT LTD New Delhi ● Cambridge ● Oxford ● Philadelphia Published by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd., G-2, Vardaan House, 7/28, Ansari Road Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110002, India www.woodheadpublishingindia.com Woodhead Publishing Limited, 80 High Street, Sawston, Cambridge, CB22 3HJ UK Woodhead Publishing USA 1518 Walnut Street, Suite1100, Philadelphia www.woodheadpublishing.com First published 2011, Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. © Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd., 2012 This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the authors and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials. Neither the authors nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book. Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. The consent of Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. does not extend to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for resale. Specific permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. for such copying. Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent to infringe. Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. ISBN: 978-93-80308-16-6 Woodhead Publishing Ltd. ISBN: 9780857091086 Typeset by Sunshine Graphics, New Delhi Printed and bound by Replika Press, New Delhi (cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:7) The knitting technology has been playing a very vital role in our life style since 1000 B.C. It not only produces fabrics and shaped garments for apparel and household purposes but also for various technical end applications. Knowledge developed in the past, particularly in the last 50 years in the field of knitting technology has contributed significantly to the developments of state-of-the-art machinery on one hand and highly sophisticated and specialised textile products on the other. The basic principles of knitting technology as well as the recent developments in knitting are now-a-days included in the syllabi of the textile related undergraduate and postgraduate courses all over the country. Prof. (Dr.) Sadhan Chandra Ray has written a textbook on “Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology” to cater to the need of the students, teachers and professionals dealing with knitting technology. I appreciate the efforts of Prof. Ray for precisely covering the various aspects of knitting technology in his book and Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. Delhi for publishing the book. Suggestions are invited from the readers for the improvement of the book in future. Kolkata Prof. (Dr.) Dhrubajyoti Chattopadhyay August, 2011 Pro-Vice Chancellor (Academic) University of Calcutta (cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:4) Clothing is one of our basic needs in life. The second most important technique of manufacturing either clothing or clothing material is the knitting. Apparently, knitting is a very simple technique of making fabric or clothing, but it has complexity too. The more we study and the more we research on knitting, more and more mysteries of knitting are being unveiled and we become more confident to control the technology of knitting for producing from simpler to complex fabrics for diversified applications in addition to traditional apparels even at a very high speed. Moreover, knowledge is now recognized as key input for future prosperity of knitting like other production techniques. During my long teaching experience I always have felt the need for a suitable text book on knitting technology encompassing together all scientific information available in other books and journals at one place in a form that is lucid and easily comprehensible to students and researchers. So the basic aim of writing this book was to precisely combine the fundamental principles of knitting and related developments. It is hoped that this publication will fulfill the need for an updated comprehensive publication which remained overdue since long. The book introduces the basic concepts of knitting to a student with no exposure of knitting as well as the aspects of knitting science to a postgraduate student or researcher for better understanding the knitting technology and gaining an insight in to the mechanics of loop formation in knitting. Emphasis has also been given on recent developments and complicated things in knitting. Naturally, a number of ideas from previous books and journals have been gained on this subject to enrich the present book. I am indebted to all these authors. Presently, knitting technology has been included in the syllabi of textile technology and allied courses in various undergraduate and postgraduate disciplines. Keeping in view the above mentioned requirements, I have endeavoured to bring out the present textbook based on my experience of teaching and research in this particular branch of textiles. I have attempted to incorporate the following notable features in the text like basics of weft and warp knitting, production of different knitted structures, latest developments in knitting (machine, process and products), knitting science, (cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:9)(cid:9) (cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:4) mechanics of knitting, knitting related calculations, traditional and objective measurements of knitted fabrics, concept of green business in knitting, etc. For easy comprehension, the text has been supplemented by illustrations, tables and photographs wherever possible as well as a bibliography at the end. The book is intended for a wide spectrum of readers, including students, researchers and academics, as well as professionals in the clothing and textile industries. I have personally gathered all the information, arranged those in a particular sequence, typed the manuscript, prepared all the figures except a few and repeatedly checked the whole matter in order to achieve good quality with minimum errors. However, all the readers are requested to suggest necessary corrections and modifications for upgrading the quality of the book in future publication. Finally, I would like to express my sincere gratitude to my numerous teachers, students, friends, colleagues, well wishers and my family members who have contributed directly or indirectly by way of their inspiration, constructive suggestion and useful discussion for writing this book. Prof. Sadhan Chandra Ray Department of Jute and Fibre Technology Institute of Jute Technology University of Calcutta 35, Ballygunge Circular Road Kolkata 700019 (cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:9) Foreword v Preface vii (cid:10) (cid:11)(cid:6)(cid:2)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:2)(cid:6)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:13)(cid:14)(cid:13)(cid:12)(cid:15)(cid:14)(cid:6)(cid:16)(cid:8) (cid:10) 1.1 Introduction to textile fabric 1 1.2 Introduction to knitting 2 1.3 History of knitting 2 1.4 Principle of hand knitting 3 1.5 Glimpses of knitting 4 1.6 Advantages of knitting 6 1.7 Reasons for the growth of knitting 7 1.8 Indian knitting industry 8 1.9 Comparison between weaving and knitting 10 References 11 (cid:17) (cid:4)(cid:15)(cid:14)(cid:9)(cid:9)(cid:2)(cid:18)(cid:2)(cid:16)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:2)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:5)(cid:18)(cid:13)(cid:19)(cid:6)(cid:2)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:2)(cid:6)(cid:12) (cid:10)(cid:17) 2.1 Classification of knitting 12 2.2 Classification of weft knitting machines 13 2.3 Classification of warp knitting machines 14 2.4 Comparison between weft knitting and warp knitting 17 (cid:20) (cid:21)(cid:8)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:13)(cid:19)(cid:6)(cid:2)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:2)(cid:6)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:8)(cid:15)(cid:8)(cid:22)(cid:8)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:13)(cid:14)(cid:6)(cid:23)(cid:13)(cid:15)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:24)(cid:13)(cid:18)(cid:5)(cid:25)(cid:22)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:2)(cid:5)(cid:6) (cid:10)(cid:26) 3.1 Introduction 19 3.2 Types of needles 19 3.3 Latch needle 20 3.4 Bearded needle 21 3.5 Compound or bi-partite needle 22 3.6 Manufacturing and specifications of latch needle 22 3.7 Sinker 24 3.8 Knitting cam system 27 3.9 Knitting action of the latch needle 30 3.10 Knitting action of the bearded needle 31 References 33 (cid:31) (cid:27)(cid:5)(cid:10)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:10)(cid:12) (cid:2) (cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:4)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:10)(cid:4)(cid:6)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:9)(cid:13)(cid:5)(cid:9)(cid:14)(cid:4)(cid:15)(cid:10)(cid:9)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:13)(cid:10)(cid:10)(cid:13)(cid:5)(cid:17) (cid:18)(cid:2) 4.1 Machine pitch and gauge 34 4.2 Loop 34 4.3 Face loop and back (reverse) loop 35 4.4 Single-faced structures and double-faced structures 36 4.5 Single jersey and double jersey fabrics 37 4.6 Courses, wales and stitch density 37 4.7 Loop length and course length 38 4.8 Different situations in loop formation 38 4.9 Stitch notation 39 4.10 Held loop 40 4.11 Tucking and tuck loop 40 4.12 Floating and float Loop (or missing and miss loop) 41 4.13 Drop or press-off stitch 42 4.14 Timing of knitting in circular double jersey machine 43 Reference 43 (cid:19) (cid:20)(cid:7)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:21)(cid:9)(cid:14)(cid:4)(cid:15)(cid:10)(cid:22)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:13)(cid:10)(cid:10)(cid:4)(cid:23)(cid:9)(cid:12)(cid:10)(cid:6)(cid:24)(cid:21)(cid:10)(cid:24)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:12) (cid:2)(cid:2) 5.1 Introduction to basic weft-knitted structures 44 5.2 Single jersey and double jersey knitting 44 5.3 Features of plain (single jersey) knitting (machine, process and structure) 46 5.4 Features of rib knitting (machine, process and structure) 48 5.5 Features of interlock knitting (machine, process and structure) 49 5.6 Features of purl knitting (machine, process and structure) 50 5.7 Comparison between rib and interlock knitting 51 5.8 Comparison between rib and purl Knitting 51 5.9 Comparison of basic weft-knitted structures 51 5.10 Instability of plain loop 52 5.11 Some popular extended basic double jersey structures 55 References 55 (cid:25) (cid:26)(cid:27)(cid:11)(cid:4)(cid:9)(cid:12)(cid:28)(cid:4)(cid:21)(cid:13)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:10)(cid:4)(cid:6)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:23)(cid:9)(cid:10)(cid:4)(cid:21)(cid:29)(cid:5)(cid:13)(cid:30)(cid:24)(cid:4)(cid:12) (cid:19)(cid:25) 6.1 Relative technology with latch needle 56 6.2 Plating 58 6.3 Laying-in and inlaid structure 60 6.4 Fair isle technique 60 6.5 Fleecy fabric knitting 61 6.6 High pile or sliver knitted fabric production 62 6.7 Plush or terry fabric production 62 6.8 Yarn changer device or striper 64 6.9 Linking 65

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