Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology

393 Pages·2012·20.86 MB·english

by  Sadhan Chandra Ray

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Sadhan Chandra Ray
W
OODHEAD PUBLISHING INDIA PVT LTD
New Delhi ● Cambridge ● Oxford ● Philadelphia
Published by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd., G-2, Vardaan House, 7/28, Ansari Road
Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110002, India
www.woodheadpublishingindia.com
Woodhead Publishing Limited, 80 High Street, Sawston, Cambridge,
CB22 3HJ UK
Woodhead Publishing USA 1518 Walnut Street, Suite1100, Philadelphia
www.woodheadpublishing.com
First published 2011, Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
© Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd., 2012
This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded
sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission. Reasonable efforts have
been made to publish reliable data and information, but the authors and the
publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials. Neither
the authors nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with this publication,
shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or
alleged to be caused by this book.
Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any
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Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. for such copying.
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trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent
to infringe.
Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. ISBN: 978-93-80308-16-6
Woodhead Publishing Ltd. ISBN: 9780857091086
Typeset by Sunshine Graphics, New Delhi
Printed and bound by Replika Press, New Delhi
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The knitting technology has been playing a very vital role in our life style
since 1000 B.C. It not only produces fabrics and shaped garments for
apparel and household purposes but also for various technical end
applications. Knowledge developed in the past, particularly in the last 50
years in the field of knitting technology has contributed significantly to
the developments of state-of-the-art machinery on one hand and highly
sophisticated and specialised textile products on the other. The basic
principles of knitting technology as well as the recent developments in
knitting are now-a-days included in the syllabi of the textile related
undergraduate and postgraduate courses all over the country.
Prof. (Dr.) Sadhan Chandra Ray has written a textbook on
“Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology” to cater to the need
of the students, teachers and professionals dealing with knitting technology.
I appreciate the efforts of Prof. Ray for precisely covering the various
aspects of knitting technology in his book and Woodhead Publishing India
Pvt. Ltd. Delhi for publishing the book. Suggestions are invited from the
readers for the improvement of the book in future.
Kolkata Prof. (Dr.) Dhrubajyoti Chattopadhyay
August, 2011 Pro-Vice Chancellor (Academic)
University of Calcutta

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Clothing is one of our basic needs in life. The second most important
technique of manufacturing either clothing or clothing material is the
knitting. Apparently, knitting is a very simple technique of making fabric
or clothing, but it has complexity too. The more we study and the more we
research on knitting, more and more mysteries of knitting are being
unveiled and we become more confident to control the technology of
knitting for producing from simpler to complex fabrics for diversified
applications in addition to traditional apparels even at a very high speed.
Moreover, knowledge is now recognized as key input for future prosperity
of knitting like other production techniques. During my long teaching
experience I always have felt the need for a suitable text book on knitting
technology encompassing together all scientific information available in
other books and journals at one place in a form that is lucid and easily
comprehensible to students and researchers. So the basic aim of writing
this book was to precisely combine the fundamental principles of knitting
and related developments. It is hoped that this publication will fulfill the
need for an updated comprehensive publication which remained overdue
since long.
The book introduces the basic concepts of knitting to a student with no
exposure of knitting as well as the aspects of knitting science to a
postgraduate student or researcher for better understanding the knitting
technology and gaining an insight in to the mechanics of loop formation
in knitting. Emphasis has also been given on recent developments and
complicated things in knitting. Naturally, a number of ideas from previous
books and journals have been gained on this subject to enrich the present
book. I am indebted to all these authors.
Presently, knitting technology has been included in the syllabi of textile
technology and allied courses in various undergraduate and postgraduate
disciplines. Keeping in view the above mentioned requirements, I have
endeavoured to bring out the present textbook based on my experience of
teaching and research in this particular branch of textiles. I have attempted
to incorporate the following notable features in the text like basics of weft
and warp knitting, production of different knitted structures, latest
developments in knitting (machine, process and products), knitting science,
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mechanics of knitting, knitting related calculations, traditional and
objective measurements of knitted fabrics, concept of green business in
knitting, etc. For easy comprehension, the text has been supplemented by
illustrations, tables and photographs wherever possible as well as a
bibliography at the end. The book is intended for a wide spectrum of
readers, including students, researchers and academics, as well as
professionals in the clothing and textile industries.
I have personally gathered all the information, arranged those in a
particular sequence, typed the manuscript, prepared all the figures except
a few and repeatedly checked the whole matter in order to achieve good
quality with minimum errors. However, all the readers are requested to
suggest necessary corrections and modifications for upgrading the quality
of the book in future publication.
Finally, I would like to express my sincere gratitude to my numerous
teachers, students, friends, colleagues, well wishers and my family
members who have contributed directly or indirectly by way of their
inspiration, constructive suggestion and useful discussion for writing this
book.
Prof. Sadhan Chandra Ray
Department of Jute and Fibre Technology
Institute of Jute Technology
University of Calcutta
35, Ballygunge Circular Road
Kolkata 700019
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Foreword v
Preface vii
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1.1 Introduction to textile fabric 1
1.2 Introduction to knitting 2
1.3 History of knitting 2
1.4 Principle of hand knitting 3
1.5 Glimpses of knitting 4
1.6 Advantages of knitting 6
1.7 Reasons for the growth of knitting 7
1.8 Indian knitting industry 8
1.9 Comparison between weaving and knitting 10
References 11
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2.1 Classification of knitting 12
2.2 Classification of weft knitting machines 13
2.3 Classification of warp knitting machines 14
2.4 Comparison between weft knitting and warp knitting 17
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3.1 Introduction 19
3.2 Types of needles 19
3.3 Latch needle 20
3.4 Bearded needle 21
3.5 Compound or bi-partite needle 22
3.6 Manufacturing and specifications of latch needle 22
3.7 Sinker 24
3.8 Knitting cam system 27
3.9 Knitting action of the latch needle 30
3.10 Knitting action of the bearded needle 31
References 33
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4.1 Machine pitch and gauge 34
4.2 Loop 34
4.3 Face loop and back (reverse) loop 35
4.4 Single-faced structures and double-faced structures 36
4.5 Single jersey and double jersey fabrics 37
4.6 Courses, wales and stitch density 37
4.7 Loop length and course length 38
4.8 Different situations in loop formation 38
4.9 Stitch notation 39
4.10 Held loop 40
4.11 Tucking and tuck loop 40
4.12 Floating and float Loop (or missing and miss loop) 41
4.13 Drop or press-off stitch 42
4.14 Timing of knitting in circular double jersey machine 43
Reference 43
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5.1 Introduction to basic weft-knitted structures 44
5.2 Single jersey and double jersey knitting 44
5.3 Features of plain (single jersey) knitting (machine, process
and structure) 46
5.4 Features of rib knitting (machine, process and structure) 48
5.5 Features of interlock knitting (machine, process and structure) 49
5.6 Features of purl knitting (machine, process and structure) 50
5.7 Comparison between rib and interlock knitting 51
5.8 Comparison between rib and purl Knitting 51
5.9 Comparison of basic weft-knitted structures 51
5.10 Instability of plain loop 52
5.11 Some popular extended basic double jersey structures 55
References 55
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6.1 Relative technology with latch needle 56
6.2 Plating 58
6.3 Laying-in and inlaid structure 60
6.4 Fair isle technique 60
6.5 Fleecy fabric knitting 61
6.6 High pile or sliver knitted fabric production 62
6.7 Plush or terry fabric production 62
6.8 Yarn changer device or striper 64
6.9 Linking 65