Functional Finishes for Textiles: Improving Comfort, Performance and Protection PDF
Preview Functional Finishes for Textiles: Improving Comfort, Performance and Protection
NANOFINISHING OF TEXTILE MATERIALS T T I W P HE EXTILE NSTITUTE AND OODHEAD UBLISHING TheTextileInstituteisauniqueorganisationintextiles,clothingandfoot- wear. Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has individual and corporate members in over 90 countries. The aim of the Institute is to facilitate learning, recognise achievement, reward excellence and disseminate information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries. Historically, The Textile Institute has published books of interest to its membersandthetextileindustry.Tomaintainthispolicy,theInstitutehas enteredintopartnershipwithWoodheadPublishingLimitedtoensurethat Institute members and the textile industry continue to have access to high calibre titles on textile science and technology. Most Woodhead titles on textiles are now published in collaboration withTheTextileInstitute.Throughthisarrangement,theInstituteprovides anEditorialBoardwhichadvisesWoodheadonappropriatetitlesforfuture publication and suggests possible editors and authors for these books. Each book published under this arrangement carries the Institute’s logo. WoodheadbookspublishedincollaborationwithTheTextileInstitute are offered to Textile Institute members at a substantial discount. These books, together with those published by The Textile Institute that are still in print, are offered on the Elsevier website at http://store.elsevier.com/. TextileInstitutebooksstillinprintarealsoavailabledirectlyfromtheInsti- tute’s website at www.textileinstitutebooks.com. A list of Woodhead books on textile science and technology, most of which have been published in collaboration with The Textile Institute, can be found towards the end of the contents pages. Related Titles Functional Finishes for Textiles, 9780857098399 Protective Clothing, 9781782420323 High Performance Textiles and Their Applications, 9781845691806 Plasma technologies for textiles, 9781845690731 The Textile Institute Book Series NANOFINISHING OF TEXTILE MATERIALS MAJID MONTAZER TINA HARIFI An imprint of Elsevier WoodheadPublishingisanimprintofElsevier TheOfficers’MessBusinessCentre,RoystonRoad,Duxford,CB224QH,UnitedKingdom 50HampshireStreet,5thFloor,Cambridge,MA02139,UnitedStates TheBoulevard,LangfordLane,Kidlington,OX51GB,UnitedKingdom ©2018ElsevierLtd.Allrightsreserved. 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Practitionersandresearchersmustalwaysrelyontheirownexperienceandknowledgeinevaluating andusinganyinformation,methods,compounds,orexperimentsdescribedherein.Inusingsuch informationormethodstheyshouldbemindfuloftheirownsafetyandthesafetyofothers, includingpartiesforwhomtheyhaveaprofessionalresponsibility. Tothefullestextentofthelaw,neitherthePublishernortheauthors,contributors,oreditors,assume anyliabilityforanyinjuryand/ordamagetopersonsorpropertyasamatterofproductsliability, negligenceorotherwise,orfromanyuseoroperationofanymethods,products,instructions,or ideascontainedinthematerialherein. LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData AcatalogrecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheLibraryofCongress BritishLibraryCataloguing-in-PublicationData AcataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary ISBN:978-0-08-101214-7(print) ISBN:978-0-08-101250-5(online) ForinformationonallWoodheadpublicationsvisitour websiteathttps://www.elsevier.com/books-and-journals Publisher:MatthewDeans AcquisitionEditor:BrianGuerin EditorialProjectManager:JoshuaBayliss ProductionProjectManager:SojanP.Pazhayattil CoverDesigner:Limbert,Matthew TypesetbySPiGlobal,India 1 Introduction: Textile finishing 1.1 INTRODUCTION: TEXTILE FINISHING DEFINITION AND HISTORICAL OVERVIEW Through the literature review, we came up with two definitions of textile finishingbothofwhichhavebeenwidelyacceptedandused.Oneofthemis fromnarrowview,definingtextilefinishingasthefinalmanufacturingstep in the production of textile fabrics, where the final fabric properties are developed completing the fabric performance along with imparting special functional properties. The other definition is wide, referring to any opera- tionforimprovingtheappearanceorvalueofafabricaftercomingoutofthe loomorknittingmachine.Inthisregard,pretreatmentssuchasscouringand bleaching are also included in finishing step. Generally, it is necessary to carryoutsomepreparatorytreatmentsbeforetheapplicationofotherfinish- ing processes to achieve the enhanced finishing effect. Considering these two traditional definitions, we believe that finishing is any form of proces- singonthetextilesubstratetopreparethetextileforfurtherprocessingorfor thecustomer.Inthisdefinition,textilesubstratecanbeinanyformranging fromfibers,flakes,webs,slivers,yarns,fabrics,garments,carpetstoanyother formoftechnicaltextiles.Regardlessofanydefinition,theobjectiveoffin- ishingistomakethetextilemoreacceptabletotheconsumerandtoachieve several goals, including preparation through purification, activation and functionalization, increased added value, enhanced quality, repeatability, variety, improved attractiveness by modification of appearance, changed handle, increased comfort, dimensional stability, protection, and improved performance. The first efforts for textile finishing concerned with the application of finishestonaturalfibers,includingcottonandwoolfiberstoimprovetheir resistance to creasingand their dimensional stability.Through thedecades, although considerable interest was still being shown in modern develop- ments of the former processes, introduction of man-made fabrics and their reputation over the years has encouraged the textile researchers to develop moremodernmethods.Undoubtedly,today’ssophisticatedmodernfinish- ing methods are a development of former simple operations evolved over NanofinishingofTextileMaterials ©2018ElsevierLtd. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-101214-7.00001-7 Allrightsreserved. 1 2 NanofinishingofTextileMaterials theyearsfromhandmethods.Inpast,finishingproceduresweremainlycon- cerned with the traditional application of textiles, namely, dressing people. However,todaytextilefinishingaimsatconvertingatextilematerialintoa technicaltextilewithmultifunctionalproperties,providingthewearerwith comfort,enhancedperformance,andprotection.Withtoday’sseveralfunc- tional finishes, the only challenge is selection of the appropriate finish depending on the fiber type and the desired end use. In addition to global awareness of environmental issues that have arose since 1990s affecting the direction of textile finishing, several other factors canbetakenintoaccountasdrivingforceforthenewtrends.Theneedfor higher-qualityandhighervalue-addedproducts,increasedlevelsofautoma- tionandprocesscontrolinmachineryandequipment,andgreateremphasis oncostreductionbyminimizingtheuseofwaterandenergyareamongthe effective parameters (Bajaj,2002). Thus,new finishing methods have been developedasasolutiontotheenvironmentalissuesalongwithconsumerand process demand satisfaction. In spite of wide progress during the history of textile finishing, there has been always a greater demand for novel finishes that confer enhanced appearance, handle, esthetics, and performance to appeal to the consumer. Historically,manyreferencesdealingwiththesubjectoftextilewetpro- cessinghavebeenpublishedrangingfromthetextbooksdescribingpartic- ular aspects of bleaching and dyeing to volumes describing chemical finishing and processes that were important at the time they were written. LewinandSello(1984)wereamongthefirstwhotriedtoreviewthegeneral area of finishing especially chemical finishing up to the early 1980s within a series of books named Handbook of fiber science and technology. Lack of single-volumereferencebook,whichadequatelycoveredthefieldoffabric preparation and finishing, urged Tomasino (1992) to gather the related information in a book entitled Chemistry and technology of fabric preparation andfinishing.AbookwiththetitleTextileprocessingandproperties,preparation, dyeing,finishingandperformancewasthenwrittenbyVigo(1994),dealingwith allaspectsoftextileprocessing,modification,andperformance.Thefunda- mentalaspectsofchemistry,chemicaltechnology,andmachineriesinvolved in the various pretreatment processes of textiles were also discussed by Karmakar (1999) in a book entitled Chemical technology in the pre-treatment processes of textiles, trying to keep the readers abreast of the latest advances inthefielduntil1999.Since2000,therehavebeenanumberofbookspub- lishedwithintheareaoftextilefinishingbutwithmorespecificinformation, for instance, based on the textile substrate, functionalities, or applications Introduction:Textilefinishing 3 (HorrocksandAnand,2000).AbookentitledAdvancesinthedyeingandfin- ishingoftechnicaltextileseditedbyGulrajani(2013)containedasectionmainly dealing with advances in finishing techniques, the use of nanotechnology andspecialtypolymersin technicaltextiles. Lastbutnotleastwasthebook entitled Functional finishes for textiles edited by Paul (2015), focusing on the importantfinishesandfinishingtechniquestoimprovethetextilescomfort and performance properties. In spite of extensive research on the nanofinishing of textile materials over the last years, comprehensive reference book pointing out different aspectsofnanotechnologyintextilefinishingwaslacking.Thecurrentbook isparticularlyaimedatfillingthisgapbyaddressingdifferentfunctionalities impartedintotextilesthroughnanotechnologyincorporation,fromfamous antibacterialactivitytomorecomplexpropertiesincludingmagnetism,con- ductivity,andwaveprotection.Thisbookdiscussesnotonlytheadvantages but also the drawbacks of this fast-emerging technology, trying to propose solutionstotackletheinvolvedlimitations.Themainfocusofthebookwill be on recent nanofinishing developments categorized based on property. Development of new functionalities along with improvement in existing functionssuchasenhanceddurabilityandlessdetrimentaleffectonhandfeel willbedealtwith,enablingtoextendtheapplicationareasoftextiles.Chap- terswillbeorganizedbasedondifferentfunctionalpropertiesimpartedinto textiles through nanofinishing treatments, each containing the relevant nanomaterials, application methods, recent case studies, advantages, disad- vantages, and challenges. A chapter will be also devoted to health, safety, and environmental aspects, which are of considerable importance not only to the manufacturers and operators, but also to the end users. 1.2 TEXTILE FINISHING CLASSIFICATION Textilefinishingcanbeclassifiedondifferentbases,whicharebrieflyshown in Fig. 1.1. Based on the performance and functionality of the finished textiles, esthetic finishes modify the appearance, hand, or drape of the fabrics such asmercerizing,napping,shearing,softening,stiffening,whilefunctionalfin- ishes improve the performance properties of the fabrics, including antibac- terial, crease resistance, antistatic, water repellant, flame retardant, and soil release. Theotherclassificationisbasedonthefinishingmedia,whichcomprise wet and dry methods. In wet methods, the chemical finish is a solution or 4 N a n o fin ish in g o f T e Textile finishing classification xtile M a te Nature Performance Permanence Functionality Environmental Media rials concern Mechanical Temporary Physical Permanent Monofunctional Chemical Aesthetic Friendly Wet - Durable Bifunctional Bio Functional Unfriendly Dry - Semidurable Multifunctional Nano - Nondurable Nanobio Fig.1.1 Textilefinishingdifferentclassifications. Introduction:Textilefinishing 5 emulsionofthefinishinwaterororganicsolvents,eachofwhichhasitsown prosandcons.Althoughlowcost,accessibility,safety,notoxicity,andneu- tralitymadewateraversatilemedia,itsuffersfromhighboilingtemperature, evaporation latent heat, and surface tension. On the other hand, use of organic solvents to apply chemical finishes is limited due to the high cost, possibletoxicity,andflammability,thoughtheybenefitfromlowerboiling temperature, evaporation latent heat, and surface tension. Indryfinishing,insteadofimmersingthefabricinwaterorsolvent-based chemicals,gasesandplasmaaremainlyused.Drymethodsaremoreenergy- efficientandenvironment-friendlyapproachescomparedwithwetmethods. Some finishing treatments are temporary, which are used when only temporarypropertiesarerequiredsuchassizingthewarpyarntowithstand the rigors of weaving. The warp size is then removed during the process called desizing. On the other hand, there are permanent finishes, which are grouped into durable, semidurable, and nondurable finishing. Durable finishesarethosethatundergorepeatedlaunderingsordrycleaningswithout losingeffectiveness.Semidurablefinisheslastthroughmorethan5–10wash- ing cycles after which the properties diminish. Nondurable finishing in which the effect disappears after the first usage and wash is used when the finishedtextiletypicallyisnotwashedordrycleanedorincaseofdisposable technical textiles. Finishing can be also classified based on the number of functionalities imparted into the finished textile. Monofunctional finishing is when only onepropertyisimpartedintothetextilesubstratesuchasanticreasefinishing of cotton. Through bifunctional finishes, two functionalities are simulta- neously provided such as softening and anticrease. Moreover, finishing can be multifunctional bringing several features into the finished textile, mainlyprovidedbynanotechnology.Forinstance,finishingofcottonfabric with TiO nanoparticles and silicone softener in presence of 1,2,3,4- 2 butanetetracarboxylic acid as a crosslinker provides simultaneous softness, anticrease, self-cleaning, UV protection, antibacterial, and flame-retardant properties(HarifiandMontazer,2012).Besides,thesynergisticeffectofdif- ferent finishing components will result in several enhanced properties. Oneoftheimportantclassificationsoftextilefinishingcameupafterthe global concerns about the environmental and human safety issues. In this regard, several attempts have been made to reduce the negative impacts of unfriendly finishes or to replace them with more environment-friendly finishingagentsortechniques.Forinstance,N-methylol-basedagentshave long been used by the textile industry as durable press finishes producing 6 NanofinishingofTextileMaterials wrinkle-resistant cotton fabrics. However, because they release formalde- hyde either from treated fabrics or during finishing processes, their use in textileindustriesislimited.Formaldehydehasbeenidentifiedtohaveimpact onhumanhealthandtheenvironment.Forthispurpose,manyeffortshave been done to reduce the formaldehyde released from the finished fabrics. These efforts range from after-washing the finished fabric and use of formaldehyde scavengers to developing nonformaldehyde reactants such as polycarboxylic acids (Harifi and Montazer, 2012). Inadditiontotheintroductionofmoreenvironment-friendlychemicals, physical finishing methods have been also developed to get over the envi- ronmentalpollutionproblemsassociatedwithchemicalmethods.Themost versatile physical methods include plasma, laser, ultrasonic irradiation, microwave (MW), radiofrequency (RF), and UV irradiation techniques. Themostcommontextilefinishingclassificationisbasedonthenatureof finish as mechanical, physical, chemical, bio, nano, and nanobio finishing. 1.2.1 Mechanical finishing Mechanical finishing is mainly dealt with the application of mechanical treatments,includingfriction,tension,compression,temperature,andpres- suretoimprovetheappearance,performance,andhandpropertiesoftextile substrates imparting luster, smoothness, softness, and dimension change (Kumar and Sundaresan, 2013). The most common mechanical finishing methods are as follows. 1.2.1.1 Calendaring Oneofthemechanicalfinishingtreatmentsiscalendaringinwhichthefabric passes between heated rotating rollers (smooth or engraved) under con- trolled time, temperature, and pressure. The result will be soft handle, reduced thickness, reduced yarn slippage along with improved luster. 1.2.1.2 Raising Thegoalofraisingistoremoveindividualfiberendstothesurfaceoffabric toproducesoftandsmoothhandle,whichisdonewithwire-coveredrolls.If abrasive-covered rolls are used, the surface with short piles will result in shade change. 1.2.1.3 Decatizing Decatizingisdoneusingaperforatedrollerimmersedinhotwaterorblown with water vapor to improve the stability, luster, and hand of fabric.
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