Frommer's San Antonio & Austin (2007) (Frommer's Complete)

354 Pages·2007·4.96 MB·English

by  David Baird

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San Antonio &
Austin
7th Edition
by David Baird
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_082997 ffirs.qxp 3/20/07 3:04 PM Page i
01_082997 ffirs.qxp 3/20/07 3:04 PM Page i
San Antonio &
Austin
7th Edition
by David Baird
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_082997 ffirs.qxp 3/20/07 3:04 PM Page ii
About the Author
When not traveling, David Bairdhangs his hat in Austin. Upon entering college he took a vow
of poverty and has faithfully kept it through a variety of pursuits, including anthropology and
travel writing. He’s something of a homebody but will occasionally rouse himself for an evening
out, always for the selfless purposes of research. He enjoys living in an area with plentiful Tex-Mex
food options and friendly natives. The findings of his fieldwork to date suggest that in central Texas
there is no shortage of either. These are only preliminary findings. More research is needed.
Published by:
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Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John
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of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their
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mentioned in this book.
ISBN: 978-0-470-08299-7
Editor: Cate Latting
Production Editor: Ian Skinnari
Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Anniversary Logo Design: Richard Pacifico
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
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Manufactured in the United States of America
5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
List of Maps viii
What’s New in San Antonio & Austin 1
1 The Best of San Antonio 5
1 The Most Unforgettable 5 The Best Things to Do
Travel Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 for Free (or Almost) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
2 The Best Splurge Hotels . . . . . . . . . . .6 6 Best Local Shopping Experiences . . . .8
3 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels . . .7 7 The Best Plunges into
4 The Most Unforgettable Dining Touristic Excess . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
2 Planning Your Trip to San Antonio 10
1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . . . . .23
2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . .10 10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Getting Through the Airport . . . . . . .26
What Things Cost in San Antonio . . .13 Flying with Film & Video . . . . . . . . . .28
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 11 Packages for the Independent
San Antonio Calendar of Events . . . .14 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 12 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .29
6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Ask Before You Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . .19 Tips for Digital Travel
Photography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . . . . .21
13 Recommended Reading . . . . . . . . . .32
Frommers.com: The Complete
Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Fast Facts: U.S. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
9 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . . . . .22
3 Suggested San Antonio Itineraries 38
1 The Best of San Antonio 3 The Best of San Antonio
in 1 Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 in 3 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
2 The Best of San Antonio
in 2 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
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iv CONTENTS
4 Getting to Know San Antonio 44
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 One-Day Ticket, Yeah! . . . . . . . . . . .51
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . .49 Fast Facts: San Antonio . . . . . . . . . .53
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
5 Where to Stay in San Antonio 56
Deal Well, Sleep Well . . . . . . . . . . . .57 4 Monte Vista Historic District . . . . . . .70
1 Best San Antonio Hotel Bets . . . . . . .57 5 Fort Sam Houston Area . . . . . . . . . . .71
2 Downtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 6 Northwest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
3 King William Historic District . . . . . . .67 7 West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . .69 8 North Central (Near the Airport) . . . .76
6 Where to Dine in San Antonio 78
1 Best San Antonio Dining Bets . . . . . .79 Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . . . . .90
2 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . . . . .80 6 Alamo Heights Area . . . . . . . . . . . . .91
3 Downtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 7 Northwest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
It’s Always Chili in San Antonio . . . .87 Frozen Assets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96
4 King William/Southtown . . . . . . . . . .87 8 Only in San Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . . .96
5 Monte Vista Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89
7 Exploring San Antonio 98
1 The Top Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 5 Special-Interest Sightseeing . . . . . .115
The Alamo: The Movie(s) . . . . . . . .103 6 Strolling Around Downtown
2 More Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 San Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117
3 Parks & Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112 Walking Tour: Downtown . . . . . . . .117
4 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113 7 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121
Old Movie Palaces 8 Staying Active . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122
of San Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114 9 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124
8 Shopping in San Antonio 126
1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Love Potion No. 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . .133
2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
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CONTENTS v
9 San Antonio After Dark 137
1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . . . . .137 3 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144
2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . . . . . .140 4 Movies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145
Conjunto: An American Classic . . . .143
10 The Best of Austin 147
1 Most Unforgettable Travel 5 The Best Things to Do for
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147 Free (or Almost) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
2 The Best Splurge Hotels . . . . . . . . .148 6 The Best Ways to Spend
3 The Best Moderately One Free Hour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
Priced Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 7 The Best Outdoor Activities . . . . . .150
4 The Most Unforgettable 8 The Best Places to Hang
Dining Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 with Locals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
11 Planning Your Trip to Austin 152
1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . .152 4 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157
2 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152 5 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . . . .158
Austin Calendar of Events . . . . . . .153 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . . . .159
What Things Cost in Austin . . . . . .155 6 Recommended Reading . . . . . . . . .159
3 Tips for Travelers with
Special Needs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156
12 Suggested Austin Itineraries 161
1 The Best of Austin in 1 Day . . . . . .161 3 The Best of Austin in 3Days . . . . . .165
2 The Best of Austin in 2 Days . . . . . .164
13 Getting to Know Austin 167
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .172 Fast Facts: Austin . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177
14 Where to Stay in Austin 180
1 Best Austin Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . .181 5 I-35 Corridor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190
2 Downtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182 6 Northwest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191
3 South Austin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187 7 Westlake/Lake Travis . . . . . . . . . . . .194
It Pays to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188 Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . . . . .195
4 Central . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188 8 At the Airport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196
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vi CONTENTS
15 Where to Dine in Austin 197
1 Best Austin Dining Bets . . . . . . . . .197 Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . . . .213
2 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . . . .198 6 East Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214
3 Downtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 7 Northwest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .215
Grocery Store Dining . . . . . . . . . . .205 8 Westlake/Lake Travis . . . . . . . . . . . .216
4 South Austin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 9 Only in Austin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .217
5 Central . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210 Reel Barbecue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218
Veggie Heaven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212
16 Exploring Austin 220
1 The Top Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . .220 5 Strolling Around the
Going Batty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .225 University of Texas . . . . . . . . . . . . .238
2 More Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227 Walking Tour: UT Austin . . . . . . . .238
3 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236 6 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243
4 Special-Interest Sightseeing . . . . . .237 7 Staying Active . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .246
8 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248
17 Shopping in Austin 250
1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . . . . . .250 2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .254
First Thursdays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .254
18 Austin After Dark 265
But There Are No Limits Smoking in Austin’s Clubs . . . . . . .273
on the Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .266 3 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .274
1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . . . . .266 4 Films . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .276
2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . . . . . .270 Celluloid Austin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .277
Label It Successful—
Austin’s S×SW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271
19 Touring the Texas Hill Country 278
1 Boerne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .279 Bats & Ostriches Along a Back
A Taste of Alsace in Texas . . . . . . .282 Road to Fredericksburg . . . . . . . . . .289
2 Bandera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .283 4 Fredericksburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290
3 Kerrville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286 Wine Not? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .292
A Bit of Old England Going Back (in Time)
in the Old West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .287 to Luckenbach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .295
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CONTENTS vii
5 Lyndon B.Johnson Country . . . . . . .296 7 San Marcos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .303
6 The Northern Lakes . . . . . . . . . . . .298 8 New Braunfels & Gruene . . . . . . . .306
Driving the Bluebonnet Trail . . . . . .300
Appendix A:San Antonio & Austin in Depth 311
1 San Antonio Past & Present . . . . . .311 2 Austin Past & Present . . . . . . . . . . .316
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .312 Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .317
Did You Know? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .316
Appendix B:Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 322
Index 325
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .325 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . .337
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . .336
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List of Maps
San Antonio & Austin 3 Austin at a Glance 170
The Best of San Antonio in Downtown Austin
1, 2 & 3 Days 40 Accommodations 183
San Antonio at a Glance 46 Greater Austin Accommodations &
Downtown San Antonio Dining 192
Accommodations 61 Downtown Austin Dining 201
Greater San Antonio Accommodations SoCo Dining 207
& Dining 72
Downtown Austin Attractions 221
Downtown San Antonio Dining 83
Greater Austin Attractions 222
Downtown San Antonio
Walking Tour: The University
Attractions 99
of Texas 239
Greater San Antonio Attractions 100
Downtown Austin Shopping 251
Walking Tour: Downtown
Greater Austin Shopping 252
San Antonio 119
Austin After Dark 267
Downtown San Antonio
The Texas Hill Country 280
Shopping 127
Fredericksburg 291
Greater San Antonio Shopping 128
The Northern Lakes 299
The Best of Austin in 1, 2 &
3 Days 162 The Bluebonnet Trail 301