Frommer's Portable Berlin

193 Pages·3·4.63 MB·English

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P O R T A B L E
Berlin
3rd Edition
by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince
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“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
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ranges.”
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Contents
List of Maps vi
1 The Best of Berlin 1
1 Frommer’s Favorite Berlin Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
2 Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
3 Best Dining Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
2 Planning Your Trip to Berlin 6
1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
The Euro, the U.S. Dollar, the British Pound &
the Canadian Dollar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
What Things Cost in Berlin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Berlin Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
7 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
3 Getting to Know Berlin 29
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Berlin Today & Tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Fast Facts: Berlin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
4 Where to Stay 48
1 On or Near the Kurfürstendamm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
2 Near the Memorial Church & Zoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57
3 In Grunewald . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
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4 In Charlottenburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
5 In Berlin-Mitte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
5 Where to Dine 69
1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69
2 Near the Kurfürstendamm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
3 Near the Memorial Church & Zoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77
4 Near the Tiergarten . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
5 In Greater Charlottenburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79
6 In Grunewald . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
7 In Berlin-Mitte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81
6 Exploring Berlin 91
Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91
1 The Top Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92
The Best Sightseeing Deal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
2 Exploring Berlin-Mitte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
3 Other Architectural Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
4 The Parks & Zoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116
5 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
6 Sports & Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120
7 A Walking Tour of Berlin 123
Walking Tour:From the Site of the
Berlin Wall to Unter den Linden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123
8 Shopping 133
1 The Top Shopping Streets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133
2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
Treasures in the Barn District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136
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9 Berlin After Dark 144
1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144
2 Theater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145
The Love Parade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
3 The Club & Music Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147
Life Is a Cabaret in Berlin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148
4 Gay & Lesbian Berlin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
5 The Bar & Cafe Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154
6 A Casino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160
10 Side Trips from Berlin 161
1 Potsdam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161
2 The Spreewald . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .168
Index 171
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178
Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178
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List of Maps
Germany 8 Attractions in
Berlin at a Glance 36 Charlottenburg 93
Berlin U-Bahn & Attractions Around the
S-Bahn 40 Tiergarten 99
Where to Stay in Western Attractions in
Berlin 50 Berlin-Mitte 109
Where to Stay in From the Site of the Former
Berlin-Mitte 63 Wall to Unter den Linden
125
Where to Dine in Western
Berlin 72 Saxony & Thuringia 163
Where to Dine in Potsdam 165
Berlin-Mitte 83
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ABOUTTHEAUTHORS
Veteran travel writers Darwin Porter and Danforth Prince have written
numerous best-selling Frommer’s guides, notably to Germany, France, Italy,
England, and Spain. Porter, who was bureau chief for the Miami Herald
when he was 21, wrote the first Frommer’s guide to Germany and has trav-
eled extensively in the country. Prince, who began writing with Porter in
1982, worked for the Paris bureau of the New York Times.
ANINVITATIONTOTHEREADER
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels,
restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us
about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in
upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d
love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Portable Berlin, 3rd Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
ANADDITIONALNOTE
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—
and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call
ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors,
and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while
traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to
stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras,
purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
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FROMMER’SSTARRATINGS,ICONS& ABBREVIATIONS
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked
for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating
system.In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions
to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly.
Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three
stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are
rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars
(must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat
point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that
separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their
trips more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
FROMMERS.COM
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www.frommers.comfor travel information on more than 3,000 destinations.
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rent trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find
the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can
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1
The Best of Berlin
A
s every year of the new millennium goes by, the reunited city of
Berlin more firmly establishes itself as the capital of the Germany of
the 21st century.
Berlin was almost bombed out of existence during World War II,
its streets reduced to piles of rubble, its parks to muddy swampland.
But the optimistic spirit and strength of will of the remarkable
Berliners enabled them to survive not only the wartime destruction
of their city, but also its postwar division, symbolized by the Berlin
Wall. Today, structures of steel and glass tower over streets where
before only piles of rubble lay, and parks and gardens are again lush.
Before the war, the section of the city that became East Berlin was
the cultural and political heart of Germany, where the best muse-
ums, the finest churches, and the most important boulevards lay.
The walled-in East Berliners turned to restoring their important
museums, theaters, and landmarks (especially in the Berlin-Mitte
section), while the West Berliners built entirely new museums and
cultural centers. This contrast between the two parts of the city is
still evident today, though east and west have more or less come
together within the immense, fascinating whole that is Berlin.
1 Frommer’s Favorite Berlin Experiences
• Strolling along Unter den Linden and the Kurfürstendamm:
You can’t know Berlin until you’ve strolled the Ku’damm, that
glossy, store-lined showcase of Western capitalism, and Unter
den Linden, the Prussian centerpiece of the Berlin-Mitte dis-
trict. See chapters 6 and 7.
• Kneipen Crawling:This is the Berlin version of “pub crawling.”
Whether you want breakfast or a beer at 4am, there’s always a
Kneipe waiting to claim you, no matter what neighborhood
you’re in. See “The Bar & Café Scene” in chapter 9.
• A Touch of Culture: The baton of the late Herbert von Kara-
jan is no longer raised, but the Berlin Philharmonic is still one
of the world’s leading orchestras. See p. 144.