Frommer's Alaska

475 Pages·2003·3.61 MB·English

by  Charles P. Wohlforth

Alaska
2004
by Charles Wohlforth
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About the Author
Charles Wohlforthis a lifelong Alaskan who has been a writer and journalist since
1986. His Frommer’s Family Vacations in the National Parks covers parks all over the
United States based on insights from the Wohlforth family’s own camping experi-
ences. Wohlforth lives in Anchorage with his wife, Barbara, sons Robin and Joseph,
and daughters Julia and Rebecca. In April, Farrar, Straus and Giroux will publish
his new book about how Eskimos and scientists are learning about climate change
in the Arctic, titled The Whale and the Supercomputer. Wohlforth welcomes reader
questions and comments through his website, www.wohlforth.net.
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ISBN 0-7645-3891-8
ISSN 1042-8283
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5 4 3 2 1
Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Alaska 1
1 The Best of Alaska 5
1 The Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 9 The Best Encounters with
2 The Best Alaska Cruises . . . . . . . .8 Native Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
3 The Best Glaciers . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 10 The Best Community Museums
& Historic Sites . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
4 The Most Beautiful Drives
& Train Rides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 11 The Best Winter Destinations . . .13
5 The Best Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . .10 12 The Strangest Community
Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
6 The Best Tips for Cooking
Salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 13 The Best Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
7 The Best Bear Viewing . . . . . . . .11 14 The Best Bed & Breakfasts . . . . .15
8 The Best Marine 15 The Best Websites . . . . . . . . . . .16
Mammal Viewing . . . . . . . . . . .12
2 Planning Your Trip to Alaska 17
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .17 6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Alaska by the Numbers . . . . . . .18 7 Escorted Tour or Do-It-Yourself
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . .19 Independent Travel? . . . . . . . . .35
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 8 Planning an Outdoor Vacation . . .39
Native Art: Finding the A Salmon Primer . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Real Thing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 9 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .46
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 10 Getting There & Getting
Only-in-Alaska Events . . . . . . . .26 Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Alaska Calendar of Events . . . . .26 11 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . . .51
5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Fast Facts: Alaska . . . . . . . . . . .53
3 For International Visitors 56
1 Preparing for Your Trip . . . . . . . .56 Fast Facts: For the International
2 Getting to the United States . . . .61 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
4 Cruising Alaska’s Coast 65
1 Weighing Your Cruise Options . . .65 Shopping for Shore Tours . . . . . .71
2 The Best Cruise Experiences 4 The Small-Ship Cruise Lines . . . .74
inAlaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 Midsize Educational Cruising . . .79
3 Booking Your Cruise . . . . . . . . .70 5 The Big-Ship Cruise Lines . . . . . .79
iv CONTENTS
5 Southeast Alaska 86
1 Exploring Southeast Alaska . . . .87 7 Juneau:Forest Capital . . . . . . .142
2 Ketchikan:On the Waterfront . . .94 Fast Facts: Juneau . . . . . . . . . .145
Fast Facts: Ketchikan . . . . . . . . .98 A Juneau Walking Tour . . . . . .148
3 Misty Fjords National Remote Cabins on Foot . . . . . .157
Monument . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 A Day Trip to Tracy Arm . . . . . .159
The Coolest Flights . . . . . . . . .108 Quick Bites in Juneau . . . . . . .167
4 Wrangell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109 8 Glacier Bay National Park . . . . .168
Fast Facts: Wrangell . . . . . . . .112 9 Gustavus:Country Inns
5 Petersburg:Unvarnished & Quiet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173
Threshold to the Outdoors . . . .118 10 Haines:Eagles & the
Fast Facts: Petersburg . . . . . . .121 Unexpected . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177
6 Sitka:Rich Prize of Russian Fast Facts: Haines . . . . . . . . . .178
Conquest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 11 Skagway:After the
Fast Facts: Sitka . . . . . . . . . . .131 Gold Rush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185
Rent a Floathouse . . . . . . . . . .140 Fast Facts: Skagway . . . . . . . .188
6 Anchorage & Environs 195
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199 5 Getting Outside . . . . . . . . . . . .224
Fast Facts: Anchorage . . . . . . .203 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231
2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .203 7 Anchorage Nightlife . . . . . . . . .232
Three Exceptional Downtown 8 Out from Anchorage:Turnagain
B&Bs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 Arm & Portage Glacier . . . . . . .234
Affordable Rooms Near the Tidal Wave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .235
Airport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209 Gone But Not Forgotten . . . . .236
3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .210 9 Out from Anchorage:Girdwood
4 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . .215 & Mount Alyeska . . . . . . . . . . .238
Walking Tour: Downtown 10 Out from Anchorage:The
Anchorage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216 Matanuska & Susitna Valleys . . .241
7 The Kenai Peninsula & Prince William Sound 244
1 Exploring the Kenai Peninsula 5 Seward:Gateway to Resurrection
& Prince William Sound . . . . . .246 Bay & Kenai Fjords . . . . . . . . .260
2 The Seward Highway:A Road Fast Facts: Seward . . . . . . . . . .263
Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248 6 Kenai Fjords National Park . . . .269
State Parks Cabin 7 Cooper Landing:Road
Reservations . . . . . . . . . . . . . .249 Meets River . . . . . . . . . . . . . .275
Why All the Dead Trees? . . . . .250
8 Kenai/Soldotna & Sterling:
3 Chugach National Forest: Giant Salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . .277
Do-It-Yourself Wilderness . . . . .251 Fast Facts: Kenai
4 Whittier:Dock on the Sound . . .256 &Soldotna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .279
CONTENTS v
9 Kenai National Wildlife 11 Halibut Cove:Venice on
Refuge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284 Kachemak Bay . . . . . . . . . . . .302
10 Homer:Cosmic Hamlet by 12 Valdez . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .304
the Sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286 Fast Facts: Valdez . . . . . . . . . .306
Fast Facts: Homer . . . . . . . . . .290 13 Cordova:Hidden Treasure . . . . .312
Getting Your Fish Home . . . . . .296 Fast Facts: Cordova . . . . . . . . .315
8 The Denali National Park Region 320
1 Planning a Visit to the Park . . .322 5 Activities Within the Park . . . . .340
The Denali Highway: The 6 Attractions & Activities Outside
Drivable Denali . . . . . . . . . . . .324 the Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .341
2 Park Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . .327 First to the Top of Mount
Train Choices . . . . . . . . . . . . .329 McKinley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .342
Fast Facts: Denali National 7 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .344
Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .331 8 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .349
3 Denali by Shuttle Bus . . . . . . . .332 9 Denali Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . . .351
The Alaska-Ohio Name Game, 10 Talkeetna:Back Door to
Round 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .333 Denali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .351
4 Denali on Foot:Day Hiking Fast Facts: Talkeetna . . . . . . . .352
& Backpacking . . . . . . . . . . . .338 11 Denali Wilderness Lodges . . . .355
9 The Alaskan Interior 358
1 Exploring the Interior . . . . . . . .359 Dawson City & Eagle: Detour
Alaska’s Highways a la Carte . . .360 Into History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .390
2 Fairbanks:Alaska Heartland . . . .362 Fast Facts: Tok . . . . . . . . . . . .392
Fast Facts: Fairbanks . . . . . . . .365 Fast Facts: Delta Junction . . . . .394
Seeing the Aurora Borealis . . . .367 6 The Glenn Highway . . . . . . . . .395
3 Chena Hot Springs Road . . . . .382 7 Copper Center & the
Richardson Highway . . . . . . . .397
4 The Dalton Highway . . . . . . . .386
8 Wrangell–St.Elias National
5 The Alaska Highway . . . . . . . .389
Park & Kennecott . . . . . . . . . .398
10 The Bush 406
1 Exploring the Bush . . . . . . . . .407 5 The Pribilof Islands:Birder’s
2 Kodiak:Wild Island . . . . . . . . .409 Paradise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .422
Fast Facts: Kodiak . . . . . . . . . .410 6 Nome:Arctic Frontier Town . . .423
3 Katmai National Park . . . . . . . .415 Fast Facts: Nome . . . . . . . . . . .425
Fast Facts: Katmai . . . . . . . . . .417 7 Kotzebue:Big Village . . . . . . . .428
4 Unalaska/Dutch Harbor: Fast Facts: Kotzebue . . . . . . . .430
Aleutian Boomtown . . . . . . . . .418 8 Barrow:Way North . . . . . . . . .432
Fast Facts: Unalaska/ Fast Facts: Barrow . . . . . . . . . .434
Dutch Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . .420 9 Prudhoe Bay:Arctic Industry . . .436
vi CONTENTS
Appendix:Alaska in Depth 438
1 Natural History:Rough Drafts 3 The People:Three Ways to Win
& Erasures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .439 an Argument in Alaska . . . . . . .449
2 Politics & History:Living a The Iditarod . . . . . . . . . . . . . .451
Frontier Myth . . . . . . . . . . . . .445
Index 456
List of Maps
Alaska 6 Anchorage 196
Southeast Alaska 89 Downtown Anchorage 205
Downtown Ketchikan 95 Downtown Anchorage Walking
Wrangell 111 Tour 217
Petersburg 119 The Kenai Peninsula & Prince
William Sound 245
Sitka 129
Seward 261
Downtown Juneau Walking
Tour 149 Homer 287
Juneau Beyond Downtown 153 Valdez 305
Downtown Juneau 163 Cordova 313
Glacier Bay National Park 169 Denali National Park 323
Haines 179 Greater Fairbanks 363
Skagway 187 Downtown Fairbanks 375
Acknowledgments
I couldn’t put together a book such as this without a lot of help in covering Alaska’s great
distances and tracking its fast-changing visitor businesses. This is my seventh edition, and
over the years so many friends have contributed their knowledge and support that the
book seems to belong to a great community. A few had a special part this year, the reli-
able core team of researchers whom I would trust with any assignment: Kris Capps,
Catherine Curtis, Karen Datko, Kathryn Gerlek, Tom Morphet, Kate Ripley, Jed Smith,
Sharon Stockard, and Kathleen Tessaro. Many other friends and family members helped
with this and previous editions, and I’m grateful to all of them.
—Charles Wohlforth
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Alaska 2004
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Alaska Cruises & Ports of Call
Alaska for Dummies
Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
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What’s New in Alaska
Here are the latest happenings in Adventures & Tours (& 888/355-
Alaska, region by region. 6288 or 907/677-1225; www.askmatt.
com), run by a young guy (Matt) who
PLANNING YOUR TRIP For
knows a lot about activities such as
more planning information, see chap-
charter fishing.
ters 2 and 3.
You’ll also find a new explanation of
Prices and crowding are down at
bird-watching opportunities, which is
Alaska’s visitor destinations. A lack of
an increasingly popular reason to come
customers always drives bargains, and
to Alaska. I have included statewide
it has been easy to save money for the
birding tours in chapter 2 and day
last two years. In 2003, even the pub-
trips or self-guided birding in individ-
lished “rack rates” started coming
ual towns where these opportunities
down at some establishments and
are available. Anchorage has a great
were stable at most others after years
new birding tour available from Bird
of routine hikes. At Denali National
Watching Tours of Anchorage Alaska
Park, visitation was strikingly down,
(&888/334-7282or 907/248-7283;
meaning it was easier to get reserva-
www.anchoragebirding.com).
tions in campgrounds and on the crit-
Another increasingly popular style
ical shuttle buses. Bad news for Alaska
of travel is to rent an RV, and there are
businesses, good news for visitors.
more and more ways to do so, includ-
In 2003, the parent company of the
ing relatively affordable one-way
biggest provider of escorted land tours
rental to Alaska from Seattle or other
became the owner of the second
cities. I have covered those options in
biggest, too. Carnival Cruise Lines,
chapter 2, in the Skagway section of
already owner of Holland America,
chapter 5 and in chapter 6, on
bought Princess (contact information
Anchorage. In addition, it is now pos-
for each is in chapters 2 and 4). The
sible to rent a camper on a four-wheel-
two brands will continue to be oper-
drive truck that you can drive over the
ated separately, but presumably the
gravel rural highways, such as the Dal-
competition that seemed to drive the
ton or the Denali. See “Equipped for
excellence of both companies will be
the Backroads” in chapter 9; the busi-
lessened.
ness doing these rentals is GoNorth
Readers seem to appreciate my
Alaska Adventure Travel Center, at
listing of Alaska travel agents and
3500 Davis Rd. in Fairbanks (&866/
independent trip planners in chapter
236-7272 or 907/479-7272; www.
2, so I have added more specialty
paratours.net).
operators: Alaska Private Lodgings,
(&866/435-3873 or 907/235-3873; All drivers should take note of a
new road report service offered by the
www.alaskabandb.com) which puts
Alaska Department of Transportation.
travelers into bed and breakfasts and
The service can be reached at &511
unique lodgings on complete custom
in Alaska or http://511.alaska.gov.
itineraries; and AskMatt Alaskan
2 WHAT’S NEW
Check on construction and road con- large enclosure of rainforest vegetation
ditions before any long drive to avoid where eagles can learn to fly again.
delays. Visitors walk through a tube in the
The state passed a new 10% car enclosure and look through one-way
rental tax, which brings the tax on car glass. The admission has gone up to
rentals in many communities near the $12 for adults. All the work at the
20% range, and almost to 30% at the Forest Service’s Starrigavan Camp-
Anchorage airport. I have listed car ground is complete; it’s among the
rentals outside of the airport in best in Alaska.
Anchorage to allow you to avoid at There has been a change in the line-
least 10% of the taxes. The legislature up of the best lodgings and dining
narrowly turned down a sales tax, but in Juneau. An old favorite, the
by the summer season of 2004, a state Blueberry Lodge, has stopped taking
sales tax could be in effect. guests, but I have added Alaska’s
Colors of Nature photography Capital Inn (& 888/588-6507 or
tours is no long in operation. 907/586-6507; www.alaskacapitalinn.
com), a historic luxury B&B a block
THE SOUTHEAST For more, see
from the State Capitol building. For
chapter 5.
a great casual dinner in a spectacular
A new, catamaran-hull fast ferry is
dining room on the dock, try the
due to be completed for the summer
Twisted Fish Co. Alaskan Grill,
season in 2004, drastically cutting the
at 550 S. Franklin St. (& 907/463-
Alaska Marine Highway System’s run
5033). Pizzeria Roma (& 907/723-
time between Juneau and Sitka.
4658), at the waterfront next to The
In Ketchikan there is a cool new
Hanger, makes great pie.
way to get to town from the airport,
Transportation to Gustavus has
which is on Gravina Island (which
changed: the boat now is called the
has no bridge). Tongass Water Taxi
(& 907/209-8294) can take you all Glacier Bay Ferry (&800/820-2628
the way downtown for less than the or 907/586-8687; www.auknutours.
cost of a cab. A couple of new restau- com) and runs only 4 days a week,
rants in town: Steamers (&907/225- leaving from downtown Juneau
1600), a nice place on the cruise instead of Auke Bay; moreover, it goes
ship dock that was recently resur- to the Glacier Bay National Park
rected; and Bar Harbor Restaurant, a headquarters at Bartlett Cove instead
cute family-run place in a little house of the Gustavus dock. This is all in
at 2813 Tongass Ave. (& 907/225- flux, however, so call ahead.
2813). In Haines, the line-up of unusual
In Petersburg, the famous Tent museums seems to grow every year.
City Campground and the Bear Ifyou make an odd museum pilgrim-
Necessities Guesthouse did not age, don’t miss the new Hammer
open in 2003. The Northern Lights Museum, at 108 Main St., across from
Restaurant at 203 Sing Lee Alley the bank (& 907/766-2374). It has
(& 907/772-2900), has changed nothing but hammers. I’ve dropped
hands again; no word on changes, but the Fireweed Bakery, which was not
there certainly will be food available in always open consistently, and added
this prime location. Wild Strawberry, 138 2nd Ave. S.
An exciting addition in Sitka: the (&907/766-3608), where a commer-
Alaska Raptor Center (& 907/747- cial fishing family serves its own catch.
8662; www.alaskaraptor.org) has com- Skagway seems to be in the process
pleted its flight rehabilitation center, a of being erased by excessive tourism