Table Of ContentSurf Zone Mapping and Sensor System
Marshall D. Earle
Planning Systems, Inc.
40201 Highway 190 East
Slidell, LA 70461
phone: (985) 649-7252 fax: (985) 649-9679 email: MEarle@plansys.com
Contract number: N00014-05-C-0395
LONG-TERM GOALS
The long-term goals of this ONR Small Business Innovation Research (SBIR) Program Phase II effort
are to develop a Surf Zone (SZ) bottom drifter measurement system that is relatively invulnerable to
effects of breaking waves and that utilizes near bottom currents to provide drifter locomotion without
using its own power as well as to transition the technology to support nearshore research, including
model validations, and SZ naval operations. Several drifters deployed in a SZ would form a mobile SZ
measurement and mapping system. Developing a riverine drifter variant had been proposed as an
option. Near the end of FY06, there appears to be increasing naval interest in the riverine variant and
decreasing naval interest in the SZ variant.
OBJECTIVES
Objectives are: (1) harnessing SZ currents (e.g., undertow and rip currents) to move drifters throughout
and generally offshore of the SZ where they will return to the surface for data relay and optional reuse;
(2) measuring key data such as bathymetry, waves, and surf; and (3) tracking drifter locations so that
these data can be gridded for research and operational applications. Based on recent naval feedback, a
related objective is to develop a riverine variant that would measure currents, bathymetry, and other
data as it is transported along a river bed.
APPROACH
The approach is to design a barely negatively buoyant spherical drifter that is large enough (e.g.,
volleyball to basketball size) to accommodate sensors, a tracking system, and a system control and data
analysis microprocessor as it rolls over the bottom due to currents. For the SZ variant, the concept
employs new micro Inertial Measurement Units (IMU’s) for inertial tracking with acoustic tracking
updates considering SZ acoustic limitations. Drifters will be deployed manually beyond the swash
zone and will surface outside of the SZ where data will be relayed by radio or satellite. The riverine
variant will not employ acoustic tracking and will surface periodically for GPS position updates. The
riverine variant is easier to develop and much lower-cost than the SZ variant.
WORK COMPLETED
Under an earlier Phase I effort, techniques were developed to track drifters using new micro IMU’s
with acoustic tracking updates considering SZ acoustic limitations such as noise and bubble
attenuation. A preliminary design that considered size, weight and power limitations was developed.
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Surf Zone Mapping and Sensor System
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Preliminary data analysis methods to provide SZ bathymetry and wave information were programmed
and tested with simulated drifter tracks using bathymetry from the Field Research Facility (FRF),
Duck, NC. Figures 1 and 2 show external and cut-away views of the Phase I concept. Colors are used
to allow distinguishing components (e.g., the inner and outer hemispheres). The inner sphere is
gimbaled loosely within the outer sphere to maintain the acoustic tracking hydrophone roughly upright
as the barely negatively buoyant drifter rolls on the bottom. Simplified prototype drifters without
tracking instrumentation, environmental sensors, and data relay capabilities were built. One was used
successfully in the field at Eglin Air Force Base, FL.
Figure 1. External View of SZ Drifter. Figure 2. Cut-Away View of SZ Drifter.
The present Phase II effort started in August, 2005, but work was delayed due to our facility being
flooded by Hurricane Katrina’s storm surge. Three main parts of the development were completed.
First, the final mechanical design of the SZ variant (suitable for manufacturing) was finished. Final
design concepts are similar to earlier concepts. Improvements allow data to be retrieved from the
drifter and changing of the nitrogen cartridge that inflates a bladder to bring the drifter to the surface
without opening the watertight inner lower hemisphere. The acoustic tracking system was purchased
to assure that its hydrophone could be integrated. Final electronic design started and will be completed
in early FY07. Figure 3 shows the open inner hemisphere of the final design SZ variant.
Second, the initial version of the SZ variant’s data acquisition software was written in C language and
tested with simulated sensor inputs on an Onset Computer Tattletale Model 8 microprocessor. A
lower-cost and lower-power microprocessor could be used eventually. The software acquires and
stores data from the IMU, the periodically operated acoustic tracking system, a pressure sensor (used
for bathymetry and wave data), and a thermistor for measuring temperature.
Third, design concepts and a preliminary mechanical design were developed for the riverine variant.
This variant will be constructed as a single sphere. A variable displacement system will be used so
that the drifter can repeatedly surface and descend. This system will consist of a micro-hydraulic
pump with a coupled electric motor, directional control valve, and ten small hydraulic cylinders. The
cylinder rods are fixed to the sphere, and the cylinder tubes are allowed to move up and down through
the instrument base plate when hydraulic pressure is applied. Calculations show that buoyancy
changes are sufficient. GPS positions will be obtained when the drifter is at the surface. Without the
acoustic tracking system, more room will be available for batteries and sensors. Additional batteries
are needed compared to the SZ variant to allow for many ascents and descents through the water
column. As this variant will be used without personnel nearby after deployment, a two-way Iridium
satellite data link will be provided. Experiments with the upper hemisphere hole positions and sizes
will be performed to obtain a design that flushes sediment and debris. Figure 4 is a cut-away view of
the preliminary design riverine variant. Figure 5 shows the riverine variant when it is submerged.
Figure 6 shows the riverine variant when it is surfaced.
Figure 3. Open Inner Hemisphere Figure 4. Cut-Away View of
of Final Design SZ Variant. Preliminary Design Riverine Variant.
Figure 5. Riverine Variant when Figure 6. Riverine Variant when
Submerged. Surfaced.
RESULTS
During Phase I, development of the preliminary design proved that the system is feasible from
mechanical and electronic engineering perspectives. Use of preliminary data analysis methods with
simulated drifter tracks and FRF SZ bathymetry data showed that wave and bathymetry information in
pressure data could be separated (via Fast Fourier Transform filtering) to provide non-directional wave
spectra and derived wave parameters as well as bathymetry data along drifter tracks. Gridding
methods were tested showing that gridded bathymetry needed for many applications can be extracted
from track data. Preliminary analysis of spatial sampling variability effects on SZ bathymetry
estimation indicated that suitable data can be obtained. Limited field tests at a barred beach during low
wave conditions with a simplified drifter confirmed that it rolls over the bottom due to longshore
currents and undertow with undertow moving it offshore. The inner sphere moved reasonably
independently of the outer sphere and remained approximately upright most of the time while the outer
sphere rotated during transport by near-bottom currents. Figures 7 and 8 show deploying the drifter
and recovering it by kayak after it surfaced beyond the SZ.
Figure 7. Deploying the Drifter. Figure 8. Recovering the Drifter.
During Phase II (FY06), main accomplishments were completing the SZ variant final mechanical
design, writing its data acquisition software, and developing the riverine variant preliminary design as
summarized under Work Completed. During FY07 (subject to funding), the following work is
planned: complete SZ variant electronic design, build and field test “operational” SZ variants,
complete riverine variant final mechanical and electronic designs, and build and field test “operational”
riverine variants.
IMPACT/APPLICATIONS
The importance of Very Shallow Water (VSW) and the Surf Zone (SZ), VSW/SZ, for naval littoral
operations is well-known. Ocean dynamic conditions (e.g., waves, surf, longshore currents, rip
currents, and undertow) and bathymetry may vary significantly in space and time. Bathymetry is
important as a key input to numerical models used to determine dynamic conditions. Bathymetry
uncertainties are a modeling error source that could be minimized. The technology will also support
nearshore processes research in general. Emphasis is being placed on the system being portable and
easily operated so that SZ data can be collected when and where it is needed rather than only at the few
locations where nearshore processes experiments usually are conducted. Because the system will be
able to measure near bottom properties, including currents, it could be useful for sediment transport
studies. ONR suggested that a drifter’s drag might be adjusted so that its path would be similar to
drifting of near bottom biota. An application of major public interest would be rip current studies and
development of better rip current predictions. Each year rip currents cause over 100 drownings and
account for about 80% of all beach water rescues nationally.
There is increasing naval interest in real-time measurement of coastal riverine and estuary bathymetry,
currents, water levels, temperatures, water physical properties and other characteristics. In these
environments, especially denied areas, personnel would only be used to deploy drifters that would
scuttle after needed data are collected and relayed. The riverine variant will address these applications.
There are also hydrology applications for being able to monitor conditions along rivers.
TRANSITIONS
Initial transitions would be use of the SZ variant to: (1) support naval littoral VSW/SZ operations, and
(2) assist in ONR sponsored field research toward better understanding of SZ processes. Field research
results also would support naval operations. An example is validating SZ numerical models that could
be used operationally. Initial transitions would be use of the riverine variant by Naval Special Warfare
(NSW) Groups, NSW Environmental Reconnaissance Teams (ERT’s), and SEAL Teams. Potential
sponsors and users include: the Commander, Naval Meteorological and Oceanographic Command
(CNMOC), the U.S. Naval Oceanographic Office (NAVO), components of the Naval Sea Systems
Command (NAVSEA) such as the Coastal Systems Station (CSS), NSW Groups, ONR, and the U.S.
Army Corps of Engineers (USACE).
RELATED PROJECTS
SZ research performed at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography (Professor Robert Guza), the Naval
Research Laboratory – Stennis Space Center [Dr. Todd Holland, Dr. Nathaniel Plant (now at ONR),
and Dr. William Schmidt], and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (Dr. Steve Elgar) is related.
A near-surface GPS-tracked SZ drifter was developed by a Scripps / Woods Hole team (Schmidt et al.,
2003). Dr. Holland’s group is involved in extracting data from SZ video data. Phase II field tests may
be at Eglin Air Force Base, FL, where they have installed instrumentation. Dr. Plant performed recent
research enabling analysis of spatial sampling variability effects on estimation of SZ bathymetry data
(e.g., Plant et al., 2002). Collaboration will also be sought to participate in future field experiments at
the FRF, Duck, NC.
There have been many uses of surface and bottom drifters in rivers although in most cases the drifters
were not instrumented and were used simply as Lagrangian drifters to infer currents. Development of
the real-time profiling riverine variant is apparently a new concept with little related work.
REFERENCES
Earle, M.D., Surf Zone (SZ) mapping and sensor system, ONR SBIR Phase I Final Report, Neptune
Sciences, Inc., 57 pp., 29 October, 2004.
Earle, M.D., Surf Zone (SZ) mapping and sensor system, ONR SBIR Phase I Option Final Report,
Neptune Sciences Division, Planning Systems Inc., 12 pp., 31 March 2005.
Plant, N.G., K.T. Holland, and J.A. Puleo, Analysis of the scale of errors in nearshore bathymetric
data, Marine Geology, 191, 71-86, 2002.
Schmidt, W.E., B.T. Woodward, K.S. Millikan, R.T. Guza, B. Raubenheimer, and S. Elgar, A GPS-
tracked surf zone drifter, J. Atmospheric and Oceanic Tech., 20, 1069-1075, 2003.
