Decanter Presents - The White List - 16 June 2022

134 Pages·2022·29 MB·English

NEW
presents...
The White List
Uncork the greatest white wines from across the globe
Plus
Muscadet
Sauvignon Blanc
Chardonnay
Chablis

ln
a
o
t
i
it
g
i
d
i
D Tasted Italian White Rioja
E
and rated favourites renaissance
Our experts share their From Prosecco to Pinot Grigio, Inside the revival of
N top Australian Rieslings discover the very best of Italy this Spanish classic
FIRST EDITIO

presents...
With summer just around the corner, there’s
nothing more appealing than a lightly perspiring
glass of white wine. In this brand-new bookazine
from the makers of Decanter magazine, discover
the wines worth trying today, from the classics in
France’s Muscadet, to the Spanish favourite of
Verdejo, often overlooked outside its home
country. Elsewhere, we reveal some of our
favourite hidden gems across the globe, from the
little-known Sauvignon Blanc producers making
waves in South Africa, to our expert’s choice of
Sonoma Chardonnay.
Subscribe to Decanter
Never miss an issue
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Part of the
bookazine series
DECANTER THE WHITE LIST
Contents
8 Vintage preview: Chablis 2020 28 Champagne rips up the rule book on rediscovering the capacity of
Favourable conditions meant the NV and MV – only one letter their grapes to produce wines of
pressure was off for producers, with different, but in the Champagne great character and excellent value
an abundance of good to excellent world the two signify daringly
50 Panel tasting: Verdejo
wines. The many Chablis admirers different conceptions of what a
Popular at home in Spain, Verdejo
of the world should make hay while ‘house blend’ can be. Is it just a
should be more widely appreciated
the sun shines premium-end fad or could non-
for its consistent quality and
14 Regional profile: Pouilly-Fuissé vintage be about to change forever? surprising diversity
The imminent release of its first 34 Producer profile: Château-Grillet
58 Prosecco on a high
officially recognised premier cru It’s one of those memorable names
Prosecco’s popularity shows no sign
wines marks the dawn of a new era that leaps out when you’re poring
of waning – and why would it?
for this much respected region of over wine maps, but those lucky
Buoyed by its unarguable success,
southern Burgundy. But will the enough to taste it can count
producers are adopting innovative
wines live up to the newly elevated themselves in a grateful wine-loving
styles to bring new flavours to fizz
status? We profile the area and meet minority. See what lies behind this
lovers everywhere
its winemakers legendary northern Rhône white
22 Muscadet’s crus communaux 38 New Spanish whites 62 Expert’s choice: Premium
Pinot Grigio
We’re all familiar with the The last two decades have witnessed
A group so well known that it’s
traditional Loire classic of Muscadet a creative revolution in Spain’s
become the default option on many
sur lie. But the real excitement in white wine production. The 10
a wine list. But Michael Garner’s
Muscadet today is to be found in its wines chosen here shine a light on
pick of £12-plus quality Pinot
‘cru communaux’ wines which take the producers, grapes and styles that
Grigios are rich, weighty and
the established practice of ageing are making waves today
voluptuous – anything but ordinary
wine on its lees to new levels. A 44 The white Rioja renaissance
superior style of Muscadet has 66 The art of blending
These 20 top barrel-matured whites
emerged from the top sites of this The two scenic, northeastern areas
show clearly how Rioja winemakers
historic region of Trentino-Alto Adige and
are placing an increased emphasis
Friuli-Venezia Giulia are at the
forefront of Italy’s top-level white
wine scene. Both regions produce
characterful blends that celebrate
their diverse terroir and get the best
from local plantings
72 Regional profile: Lugana
Visitors to Lake Garda’s scenic
shores have long enjoyed the dry
whites of its local DOC. And
recently the wines have soared in
popularity further afield, as drinkers
discover what the area’s unique soil
profile can produce
78 Panel tasting: Alsace Riesling
Showcasing the many varied grands
crus of this complex of wine regions,
14 this tasting reinforced the value of
Alsace’s classification system
86 Furmint: The journey continues
This versatile and characteristically
Hungarian grape has already found
6 | Decanter | The White List
66
a great favour among restaurant
wine buyers – seek out its food-
friendly charms to find out why
92 10 reasons to drink English
sparkling wine
Basking in the glow of critical
acclaim, English fizz no longer has
anything to prove. Have you
discovered one of wine’s great
success stories yet?
98 Expert’s choice: 102
Sonoma Chardonnay
Whether it’s leaner styles or the
richer ‘old-school’ ones that you
prefer, Sonoma’s unique climate
provides the ideal conditions for
quality Chardonnay 112 Panel tasting: Australian Riesling Zealand’s Chardonnay producers in
102 South African Sauvignon Blanc: Safe to say, these Clare and Eden recent years
10 top producers Valley dry Rieslings were a big hit 124 Top sweet wines around the world
Sit up and take notice: South Africa with the judges, offering just the There is something magical about
is blazing a trail in the New World, right combination of fruity and the wine world’s sweetest creations.
making site-expressive Sauvignon zesty freshness From grapes left out on mats to dry
Blanc. The local winemakers’ respect 120 Expert’s choice: New Zealand in the sun through the to the ‘noble
for the terroir has seen a growing Chardonnay 2020 rot’ of botrytis, explore the
number turning out Sauvignons High scores for the 18 excellent versatility of these unctuous treats
that speak confidently of their wines selected here reflect the huge – and you really don’t have to wait
origins. Here are 10 names to watch progress that’s been made by New until Christmas every year!
Decanter | The White List | 7
FRANCE
Chablis
2020
Favourable conditions meant the pressure was off for grateful
producers, with an abundance of good to excellent wines. The many
Chablis admirers of the world should make hay while the sun shines…
REPORT ANDY HOWARD MW
8 | Decanter | The White List
CHABLIS 2020
C
hablis 2020 continues a run of very fine
vintages in this key Burgundy appellation. Chablis: know your vintages
The word most heard during my recent
2020
visit to Chablis was ‘classic’. While 2020 may not Early but high-quality which lacked a bit of concentration
quite have the linear acidity of 2014, there are a lot vintage with typical Chablis drive but had plenty of fruit purity. Stone
of similarities with 2017, another classic year. and freshness. Along with 2017, the fruit characters more evident, less
Although 2020 was a very early vintage, it was best since 2014. A vintage to buy, classic, relatively early drinking.
not a particularly hot one and managed to avoid and to keep the top wines carefully
2017
the dramatic heat spikes of 2018 and 2019. My for drinking over 5-10 years. A fine vintage, plenty of
high tasting scores suggested that this is a vintage acidity, floral and mineral notes, and
2019
which can be rated at least four stars, with a wide Some spikes of heat, but a lot more drive and intensity than in
incidence of five-star wines. the grapes were very concentrated either 2016 or 2018. Vintage to keep.
Domaine Séguinot Bordet’s Jean-François giving Chablis wines with weight
2016
Bordet, president of the BIVB Chablis and the acidity to support the ripe Beset by frost and hail
commission, says ‘it was a very classic vintage’. fruit. Best sites will keep many years. damage – very low yields as a result.
Olivier Bailly (Domaine Billaud-Simon) echoes Decent wines were made but acidity
2018
that verdict, confirming: ‘2020 is more like 2014 Big harvest with a dry, hot quite low; all but the best premiers
and 2017 than 2018 or 2019.’ Vincent Dauvissat, summer leading to ripe grapes crus and grands crus need drinking.
whom I visited while he was dashing around in
the cellar moving wines between barrels, stopped
Decanter
long enough to describe the year as a ‘magnificent’ combined with freshness and approachability. vintage
vintage. On a visit to Domaine François Raveneau, These wines will provide some excellent short- ratings: Chablis
Isabelle Raveneau reconfirmed the general view, term drinking before many of the best Chablis
2020 HHHHH
noting that 2020 was ‘more classic than 2019’. are ready. Nearly all the AP Chablis I tasted
showed a distinct step up in concentration, with 2019 HHHHH
RECIPE FOR SUCCESS more pronounced acidity, apple (sometimes pear) 2018 HHHHH
Following the reduced crop in 2019, and the fruit notes and a distinctly mineral edge.
2017 HHHHH
exceedingly difficult 2016 vintage (devastated by Premier cru Chablis adds more ageability and
bouts of frost and hail), the weather in 2020 was a lot more terroir influence, with the top climats 2016 HHHHH
generally kind to Chablis producers. Winter saw showing very strongly. Montmains and Vaillons
plenty of rainfall to boost water reserves and the were impressive, while on the right bank of the
mild start to the year encouraged early budburst, Serein, Mont de Milieu and Vaulorent shone, the
although producers feared the worst when latter showing why it is regarded by many as
temperatures plummeted at the end of March comparable to Chablis grand cru. As expected,
and early April. Bailly said he had spent seven the wines from Montée de Tonnerre lived up to
nights in his vineyards lighting frost-protection their lofty reputation, and these will be wines to
candles (bougies), but fortunately damage was enjoy after a few years’ bottle age, and then over
slight and only affected the lowest sites. the next decade. Bailly advises that premier cru
A warm April was followed by soaring from 2020 should be aerated in a decanter for at
temperatures in May, which encouraged a rapid least an hour if they are broached within the first
successful flowering. Summer was warm and dry, two to three years following the vintage.
with July experiencing virtually no rain. However,
due to ample water reserves, few vines were IN IT FOR THE LONG TERM
More great
adversely affected. Occasional showers in August Finally, Chablis grand cru delivers extra levels of
Chablis?
freshened up the vines and the growth cycle was concentration, excellent ageing potential and
completed 15-20 days earlier than normal in the additional layers of texture via a greater use of In addition to the 33
past 20 years, with harvest starting on 24 August. oak, with Les Clos and Les Preuses perhaps the wines shown here, for
Raveneau described 2020 as an ‘easy’ vintage, most memorable of all the wines I have tasted. tasting notes and scores
because producers had sufficient time to make 2020 is a very fine vintage which is not easy to on 147 more top Chablis
careful decisions on what to do, and when. Louis compare to other years. Although very early, the 2020 wines tasted by
Moreau agreed that the conditions allowed dry weather and absence of heat spikes meant Andy Howard MW for
producers to make the best choices in both the that grape quality and health was exceptional. Decanter, including 11
vineyard and at harvest time. Yields were slightly impacted by the dry weather, more top-scoring wines
It appears that overall quality is not only high, but this only appears to have added to the vitality at 95pts and above, go to
but also homogenous across quality tiers, of the wines. Demand for Chablis is high, and decanter.com/premium
vineyard sites and both banks of the Serein river. consumers should undoubtedly take the
Petit Chablis was very successful, with many opportunity to stock up on 2020 and enjoy over
wines showing an attractive stone fruit character the next decade; it really is hard to go wrong. ▶
Decanter | The White List | 9
FRANCE
January releases: Howard’s 33 of the best Chablis 2020s
NB: many retailers’ allocations are as yet unconfirmed – prices and stockists are given where available, and similarly for alcohols
1 WINE OF THE VINTAGE & elegance in the same glass. Lovely purity on
TOP QUALITY PRODUCER the nose with wildflowers and a hint of ripe
Domaine François Raveneau, peach. The palate is concentrated yet still
Grand Cru Les Clos 98 very precise with citrus acidity and a long,
From 40- to 50-year-old vines. A forceful lingering mineral finish. Drink 2022-2028
nose displaying intriguing smoky notes.
A wall of concentration on the palate, Domaine Séguinot-Bordet,
with vibrant tree fruit, white flowers, great 1er Cru Fourchaume 94
acidity, intense focus and a long, mineral £20-£30.99 Bon Coeur, Co-op, Frazier’s,
aftertaste. Despite the power it’s not showy, Montrachet, The Wine Centre
but is terroir-driven with total purity, and for The Séguinots’ roots in Maligny date back
the long haul. Drink 2024-2040 Alcohol 13% to 1590. This is a complete Fourchaume
from Jean-François Bordet which balances
2 TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Albert richness, concentration and intensity with
Camille and
Bichot, Domaine Long-Depaquit, Laurent Schaller fresh acid, lovely mineral undertow and
Moutonne, Grand Cru Monopole 97 complexity of flavour. Disarmingly
As hoped for, another fantastic example of marked flinty and mineral aromas, while drinkable already, it has potential to age
Moutonne, with intensity of pear and apple the palate is intense and concentrated. You and become memorable in three to four
fruit and a faint tropical edge. Despite the can feel, taste and breathe the terroir here. years. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 12.5%
concentration, the fruit is pure and the A precise premier cru with wonderful purity
focused acidity keeps the palate fresh and and the structure to age for a decade or Roland Lavantureux,
wanting more. The oak is barely noticeable, more. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13% 1er Cru Vau de Vey 94
and the wine finishes with a chalky, dry note Roland founded the domaine in 1978, with
which adds even more to the appeal. Very, TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Domaine sons Arnaud and David now running the
very classy. Drink 2023-2037 Alc 13% Vincent Dauvissat Grand Cru Les Clos business. Based in Lignorelles, the domaine
96
covers 21ha. Of this, 0.95ha is within Vau de
3 TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Domaine Dauvissat’s Les Clos lives up to its grand cru Vey, consisting of vines averaging 35 years
William Fèvre, Grand Cru Les Clos 97 billing with great power and concentration of age. A full, fleshy and dramatic Vau de
Fèvre’s largest grand cru, with 4ha located evident. Subtle orange-box notes on the Vey, with ripeness and generosity of fruit
higher up in Les Clos, meaning this is cooler- palate, a hint of peach and apricot, kept in check by the climat’s freshness.
climate, with much more chalk than matched with driving apple acidity and Maturation of 50% of the blend was in old
Kimmeridgian. Half of the vines were fresh, salty, chalky notes. The purity and oak, which has added a touch of spiciness
planted by William Fèvre’s father in the clarity of the wine are both so impressive. and extra intrigue to the palate. Very
1940s. Perfect balance between precision, Drink 2024-2037 Alc 13% impressive. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 12.5%
concentration, acidity and ripe fruits, with
oak that’s not at all apparent. A fresh, Domaine Bernard Defaix, 5 TOP QUALITY PRODUCER
glorious wine. Drink 2025-2040 Alc 13.5% Grand Cru Vaudésir 94 Samuel Billaud, Vieilles Vignes,
Still very youthful (tasted a tank sample); 1er Cru Séchet 94
TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Domaine there is clearly a lot of potential here. Fresh £39 House of Townend, Lay & Wheeler, Montrachet
Billaud-Simon, Grand Cru Les Preuses acidity matches the beautifully ripe fruit One of the special Samuel Billaud cuvées,
96
characters on the palate, yet this is not at all the old vines really adding lots of extra
POA Bancroft overblown, and the wine seems lighter on density and concentration. Green apple on
From 70-year-old vines, a part was matured the palate than the 13.5% alcohol. The the palate, with a touch of red berry fruit as
in old casks, the rest in vats. Powerful, restrained wood is barely perceptible. well. Powerful and complex, with great
complex, but also refined and understated. Could move to 95pts once bottled. Classy. purity and a fine, mineral aftertaste.
Crisp, vibrant acidity, subtle wood notes and Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13.5% Will age very well. Drink 2023-2028
a lingering, mineral finish. A touch of the
iron fist in a velvet glove. Drink 2024-2032 4 TOP QUALITY PRODUCER TOP VALUE Albert Bichot,
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Domaine Long-Depaquit,
Domaine François Raveneau, 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 94 1er Cru Les Vaucopins 93
1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 96 POA Berkmann Wine Cellars Showing a steely edge to balance the
POA Haynes Hanson & Clark As expected from the master Brocard, this slightly exotic, stone fruit characters on the
One of Raveneau’s jewels in the crown, this is a very fine expression of Montée de nose, this is another classy Chablis from
is a stunning Montée de Tonnerre, with Tonnerre which marries power and Long-Depaquit. A premier cru with plenty of
10 | Decanter | The White List