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Computer Technology for Textiles and Apparel PDF

385 Pages·2011·3.5 MB·English
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Computer technology for textiles and apparel © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing The Textile Institute is a unique organisation in textiles, clothing and footwear. Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has individual and corporate members in over 90 countries. The aim of the Institute is to facilitate learning, recognise achievement, reward excellence and disseminate information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries. Historically, The Textile Institute has published books of interest to its members and the textile industry. To maintain this policy, the Institute has entered into part- nership with Woodhead Publishing Limited to ensure that Institute members and the textile industry continue to have access to high calibre titles on textile science and technology. Most Woodhead titles on textiles are now published in collaboration with The Textile Institute. Through this arrangement, the Institute provides an Editorial Board which advises Woodhead on appropriate titles for future publication and suggests possible editors and authors for these books. Each book published under this arrangement carries the Institute’s logo. Woodhead books published in collaboration with The Textile Institute are offered to Textile Institute members at a substantial discount. These books, together with those published by The Textile Institute that are still in print, are offered on the Woodhead website at www.woodheadpublishing.com. Textile Institute books still in print are also available directly from the Institute’s website at www.textileinstitute- books.com. A list of Woodhead books on textile science and technology, most of which have been published in collaboration with The Textile Institute, can be found towards the end of the contents pages. © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 121 Computer technology for textiles and apparel Edited by Jinlian Hu Oxford Cambridge Philadelphia New Delhi © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited, 80 High Street, Sawston, Cambridge CB22 3HJ, UK www.woodheadpublishing.com Woodhead Publishing, 1518 Walnut Street, Suite 1100, Philadelphia, PA 19102-3406, USA Woodhead Publishing India Private Limited, G-2, Vardaan House, 7/28 Ansari Road, Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110002, India www.woodheadpublishingindia.com First published 2011, Woodhead Publishing Limited © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 The authors have asserted their moral rights. This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the authors and the publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials. Neither the authors nor the publisher, nor anyone else associated with this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book. Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfi lming and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from Woodhead Publishing Limited. The consent of Woodhead Publishing Limited does not extend to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for resale. Specifi c permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing Limited for such copying. Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identifi cation and explanation, without intent to infringe. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-1-84569-729-7 (print) ISBN 978-0-85709-360-8 (online) ISSN 2042-0803 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (print) ISSN 2042-0811 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (online) The publisher’s policy is to use permanent paper from mills that operate a sustainable forestry policy, and which has been manufactured from pulp which is processed using acid-free and elemental chlorine-free practices. Furthermore, the publisher ensures that the text paper and cover board used have met acceptable environmental accreditation standards. Typeset by Toppan Best-set Premedia Limited, Hong Kong Printed by TJI Digital, Padstow, Cornwall, UK © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 Contents Contributor contact details xi Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xv Introduction xxiii Part I Computer-based technology for textile materials 1 1 Digital technology for yarn structure and appearance analysis 3 B. G. Xu, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong 1.1 Introduction 3 1.2 Measurement of yarn evenness 4 1.3 Analysis of yarn hairiness 5 1.4 Measurement of yarn twist 9 1.5 Recognition of yarn snarl 11 1.6 Analysis of yarn blend 14 1.7 Grading of yarn appearance 16 1.8 Future trends 19 1.9 Conclusions 20 1.10 Acknowledgement 20 1.11 References 20 2 Digital-based technology for fabric structure analysis 23 B. Xin, Shanghai University of Engineering Science, China and J. Hu, G. Baciu and X. Yu, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong 2.1 Introduction 23 2.2 Background and literature review 24 2.3 The digital system for weave pattern recognition 27 v © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 vi Contents 2.4 Theoretical background for weave pattern analysis 29 2.5 Methodology for active grid model (AGM) construction and weave pattern extraction 35 2.6 Conclusions 42 2.7 References 42 3 Computer vision-based fabric defect analysis and measurement 45 A. Kumar, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong 3.1 Introduction 45 3.2 Fabric inspection for quality assurance 46 3.3 Fabric defect detection methods 49 3.4 Fabric defect classifi cation 52 3.5 Fabric properties and color measurement using image analysis 59 3.6 Conclusions and future trends 60 3.7 Acknowledgments 61 3.8 References 62 Part II Modelling and simulation of textiles and garments 67 4 Key techniques for 3D garment design 69 Y. Zhong, Donghua University, China 4.1 Introduction 69 4.2 Sketch-based garment design 70 4.3 Surface fl attening for virtual garments 73 4.4 Online garment-shopping system: problems and solutions 80 4.5 Challenges and future trends 90 4.6 Sources of further information 91 4.7 References 91 5 Modelling and simulation of fi brous yarn materials 93 X. Chen, University of Manchester, UK 5.1 Introduction 93 5.2 Modelling and simulation of yarns 94 5.3 Weave modelling 103 5.4 Geometrical modelling of woven fabrics 105 5.5 Finite element (FE) modelling of woven fabrics 113 5.6 Future development of textile modelling 119 5.7 Acknowledgements 120 5.8 References and further reading 120 © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 Contents vii 6 Digital technology and modeling for fabric structures 122 G. Baciu, E. Zheng and J. Hu, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong 6.1 Introduction 122 6.2 Background on woven fabric structure 123 6.3 Fabric geometry structure models 124 6.4 Fabric weave pattern 126 6.5 Description and classifi cation of regular patterns 126 6.6 Description and classifi cation of irregular patterns 128 6.7 Weave pattern and fabric geometry surface appearance 131 6.8 Experimental pattern analysis 131 6.9 Methodology 132 6.10 Results and discussion 135 6.11 Acknowledgment 144 6.12 References 144 7 Modeling ballistic impact on textile materials 146 M. S. Risby, National Defence University, Malaysia and A. M. S. Hamouda, Qatar University, Qatar 7.1 Introduction 146 7.2 Computational aspects 150 7.3 Numerical modeling of single and multiple layer fabric 160 7.4 Conclusions 166 7.5 References and further reading 168 8 Modeling and simulation techniques for garments 173 S.-K. Wong, National Chiao Tung University, Taiwan 8.1 Introduction 173 8.2 Model development 174 8.3 Computer graphics techniques for garment structure and appearance 178 8.4 Rendering of garment appearance and model demonstration for garments 183 8.5 Considerations for real-time applications 188 8.6 Advanced modeling techniques 191 8.7 Future developments in simulating garment materials 192 8.8 Conclusions and sources of further information and advice 193 8.9 References 195 © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 viii Contents Part III Computer-based technology for apparel 201 9 Human interaction with computers and its use in the textile apparel industry 203 G. Baciu and S. Liang, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong 9.1 Introduction 203 9.2 Principles of human computer interaction (HCI) 204 9.3 Methods for improving human interaction with computers for textile purposes 207 9.4 Future trends 211 9.5 Conclusions 217 9.6 Acknowledgment 217 9.7 References 217 10 3D body scanning: Generation Y body perception and virtual visualization 219 M.-E. Faust, Philadelphia University, USA and S. Carrier, University of Quebec at Montreal, Canada 10.1 Introduction 219 10.2 Literature review 221 10.3 Methodology 231 10.4 Results and fi ndings 233 10.5 Conclusions and recommendations 239 10.6 Limitations 239 10.7 Future studies 240 10.8 References 240 11 Computer technology from a textile designer’s perspective 245 H. Ujiie, Philadelphia University, USA 11.1 Introduction 245 11.2 Role of computer technology in textile design 247 11.3 Main computer technologies in textile design 248 11.4 Benefi ts and limitations of computers for textile design 254 11.5 Future trends 256 11.6 Sources of further information and advice 257 11.7 References 257 12 Digital printing technology for textiles and apparel 259 D. J. Tyler, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK 12.1 Introduction 259 12.2 Review of digital printing technology 260 © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011 Contents ix 12.3 Global developments in digital printing technology 263 12.4 Colour technology and colour management 266 12.5 Three stages of computing for digital printing 272 12.6 Future trends 277 12.7 Conclusions 279 12.8 Sources of further information and advice 279 12.9 Acknowledgements 280 12.10 References 280 13 Approaches to teaching computer-aided design (CAD) to fashion and textiles students 283 P. C. L. Hui, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong 13.1 Introduction 283 13.2 Review of approaches to teaching computer-aided design (CAD) 283 13.3 Challenges presented by each approach 287 13.4 Case study 289 13.5 Areas for improvement in teaching computer-aided design (CAD) 293 13.6 Conclusions 294 13.7 References 294 14 Three-dimensional (3D) technologies for apparel and textile design 296 C. L. Istook, North Carolina State University, USA, E. A. Newcomb, North Carolina Agricultural & Technical State University, USA and H. Lim, Konkuk University, South Korea 14.1 Introduction 296 14.2 Applications of three-dimensional (3D) human body modeling 297 14.3 Technologies of human body modeling in three-dimensions (3D) 299 14.4 Development of the body surface 304 14.5 Animation 308 14.6 Generic vs individualized body models 310 14.7 Virtual try-on technologies 313 14.8 Conclusions 319 14.9 References 320 © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011

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