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SIXTH EDITION
LORRAINE NORDMANN
SIXTH EDITION
Beauty Therapy
T H E F O U N D A T I O N S
The Official Guide to Level 2 NVQ
L O R R A I N E N O R D M A N N
HABIA SERIES LIST
Hairdressing Beauty therapy
Student textbooks Beauty Basics: The Official Guide to Level 1 3e Lorraine Nordmann
Hairdressing and Barbering The Foundations: The Official Beauty Therapy – The Foundations: The Official Guide to Level 2
Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering NVQ at Level 2 7e VRQ 6e Lorraine Nordmann
Martin Green Beauty Therapy – The Foundations: The Official Guide to Level 2
Begin Hairdressing: The Official Guide to Level 1 3e Martin 5e Lorraine Nordmann
Green Professional Beauty Therapy – The Official Guide to Level 3 4e
Lorraine Nordmann
Hairdressing and Barbering The Foundations: The Official Guide
to Hairdressing and Barbering VRQ at Level 2 1e Martin Green The Pocket Guide to Key Terms for Beauty Therapy Lorraine
Nordmann and Marian Newman
Professional Hairdressing: The Official Guide to Level 3 7e Martin
Green and Leo Palladino The Official Guide to the City & Guilds Certificate in Salon
Services 1e John Armstrong with Anita Crosland, Martin
The Pocket Guide to Key Terms for Hairdressing Martin Green
Green and Lorraine Nordmann
The Official Guide to the City & Guilds Certificate in Salon Service
The Complete Guide to Make-Up 1e Suzanne Le Quesne
1e John Armstrong with Anita Crosland, Martin Green and
Lorraine Nordmann The Encyclopedia of Nails 1e Jacqui Jefford and Anne Swain
The Colour Book: The Official Guide to Colour for NVQ Levels 2 & The Art of Nails: A Comprehensive Style Guide to Nail Treatments
3 1e Tracey Lloyd with Christine McMillan-Bodell and Nail Art 1e Jacqui Jefford
eXtensions: The Official Guide to Hair Extensions 1e Theresa Nail Artistry 1e Jacqui Jefford
Bullock The Complete Nail Technician 3e Marian Newman
Salon Management Martin Green Manicure, Pedicure and Advanced Nail Techniques 1e Elaine
Men’s Hairdressing: Traditional and Modern Barbering 2e Almond
Maurice Lister The Official Guide to Body Massage 2e Adele O’Keefe
African-Caribbean Hairdressing 2e Sandra Gittens An Holistic Guide to Massage 1e Tina Parsons
The World of Hair Colour 1e John Gray Indian Head Massage 2e Muriel Burnham-Airey and Adele O’Keefe
The Cutting Book: The Official Guide to Cutting at S/NVQ Levels 2 Aromatherapy for the Beauty Therapist 1e Valerie Worwood
and 3 Jane Goldsbro and Elaine White
An Holistic Guide to Reflexology 1e Tina Parsons
Professional Hairdressing titles An Holistic Guide to Anatomy and Physiology1e Tina Parsons
The Essential Guide to Holistic and Complementary Therapy 1e
Trevor Sorbie: The Bridal Hair Book 1e Trevor Sorbie and Jacki
Helen Beckmann and Suzanne Le Quesne
Wadeson
The Spa Book 1e Jane Crebbin-Bailey, Dr John Harcup, and
The Art of Dressing Long Hair 1e Guy Kremer and Jacki Wadeson
John Harrington
Patrick Cameron: Dressing Long Hair 1e Patrick Cameron and
SPA: The Official Guide to Spa Therapy at Levels 2 and 3,
Jacki Wadeson
Joan Scott and Andrea Harrison
Patrick Cameron: Dressing Long Hair 2 1e Patrick Cameron and
Nutrition: A Practical Approach 1e Suzanne Le Quesne
Jacki Wadeson
Hands on Sports Therapty 1e Keith Ward
Bridal Hair 1e Pat Dixon and Jacki Wadeson
Encyclopedia of Hair Removal: A Complete Reference to
Professional Men’s Hairdressing: The Art of Cutting and Styling
Methods, Techniques and Career Opportunities, Gill Morris
1e Guy Kremer and Jacki Wadeson
and Janice Brown
Essensuals, the Next Generation Toni and Guy: Step by Step
The Anatomy and Physiology Workbook: For Beauty and
1e Sacha Mascolo, Christian Mascolo and Stuart Wesson
Holistic Therapies Levels 1–3. Tina Parsons
Mahogany Hairdressing: Step to Cutting, Colouring and Finishing
The Anatomy and Physiology CD-Rom
Hair 1e Martin Gannon and Richard Thompson
Beautiful Selling: The Complete Guide to Sales Success in the
Mahogany Hairdressing: Advanced Looks 1e Martin Gannon
Salon Rath Langley
and Richard Thompson
The Official Guide to the Diploma in Hair and Beauty Studies at
The Total Look: The Style Guide for Hair and Make-up Professional
Foundation Level 1e Jane Goldsbro and Elaine White
1e Ian Mistlin
The Official Guide to the Diploma in Hair and Beauty Studies at
Trevor Sorbie: Visions in Hair 1e Trevor Sorbie, Kris Sorbie and Higher Level 1e Jane Goldsbro and Elaine White
Jacki Wadeson
The Official Guide to Foundation Learning in Hair and Beauty 1e
The Art of Hair Colouring 1e David Adams and Jacki Wadeson Jane Goldsbro and Elaine White
Beauty Therapy The Foundations – The © 2014, Cengage Learning EMEA
Oicial Guide to Level 2 NVQ, 6th Edition
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this work covered by the copyright herein
Lorraine Nordmann
may be reproduced, transmitted, stored or used in any form or by any means
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British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
ISBN: 978-1-4080-7112-0
Cengage Learning EMEA
Cheriton House, North Way, Andover, Hampshire, SP10 5BE
United Kingdom
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Printed in China by RR Donnelley
Print Year: 2015 Print Number: 02
Contents
Foreword xi
About the author xii
Acknowledgements xiii
Credit list xiv
About the book xvi
About the website xviii
Introduction xix
1 Introduction The structure of the skin 26
2
The epidermis 26
What is a NVQ? 4 The layers and zones of the epidermis 27
Qualification structure and requirements 4 The dermis 29
Units and outcomes 5 Skin appendages 33
Performance criteria – what you must do 6 Subcutaneous layer 35
Range – what you must cover 6 Hair 35
Knowledge and understanding 6 The structure of hair 36
Portfolio evidence 6 Types of hair 36
Career opportunities when qualified 7 The parts of the hair and related skin 37
Employment opportunities 8 Hair growth 39
Progression opportunities 9 The nails 42
Industry role models 11 The structure and function of the nail 42
2 Anatomy and Physiology Nail growth 45
18
The nervous system 45
Anatomy and physiology knowledge and understanding The central nervous system 46
requirements 20 Nerves 46
Anatomical terminology 21 Nerve impulses 47
The skin 21 The autonomic nervous system 48
Skin gender differences 21 The muscular system 49
Skin age differences 22 Facial muscles 50
Cells 22 The muscles of the hand and arm 56
Tissues 23 The muscles of the foot and lower leg 57
Functions of the skin 24 The bones 59
Protection 24 Bones of the head, neck, chest and shoulders 60
Heat regulation 24 Bones of the hand and arm 62
Absorption 25 The bones of the foot and lower leg 63
Secretion 25 The main constituents of blood 65
Sensation 25 Blood circulation 66
Excretion 26 The arteries of the arm and hand 68
Nutrition 26 The arteries of the foot and leg 68
v
vi CONTENTS
The lymphatic system 70 Malignant tumours 126
Lymph 70 Skin allergies 126
Lymph vessels 70
Lymph nodes 70 4 Selling Skills
132
Location of groups of lymph nodes 72
3 Health and Safety Unit Topic 133
78 The importance of product or services promotion 134
Unit Topic 79 Features and benefits 137
Legislation 80 Selling products 138
The Health and Safety at Work Act (1974) (HASAWA) 81 Product suitability 138
Hazards and risks 82 Techniques in selling 139
The Management of Health and Safety at Work Staff training 139
Regulations (1999) 83 Methods of promoting products and services 140
The Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) at Work The range of products 143
Regulations (2002) 83 Consumer protection legislation 143
The Workplace (Health, Safety and Welfare) Regulations Consumer Protection Act (1987) 143
(1992) 84 Consumer Safety Act (1978) 144
Manual Handling Operations Regulations (1992) 85 Prices Act (1974) 144
Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations Trade Descriptions Acts (1968 and 1972) 144
(PUWER) (1998) 86 Resale Prices Acts (1964 and 1976) 144
Health and Safety (Display Screen Equipment) Sale and Supply of Goods Act (1994) 144
Regulations (1992) 87 Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations (2004) 144
Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) Data Protection Act (DPA) (1998) 145
Regulations (2002) 87 Consumer Protection (Distance Selling) Regulations
Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations (2008) 89 (2000) 145
Electricity at Work Regulations (1989) 89 The Disability Discrimination Act (DDA) (1996) 145
Accidents 90 Equal opportunities policy 146
Reporting of Injuries, Diseases and Dangerous Professional codes of practice 146
Occurrences Regulations (RIDDOR) (1995) 90 Insurance 146
First aid 91 Informing clients about additional products or services 146
Disposal of waste 93 Use good communication techniques 147
Fire 93 Promotions 149
Other emergencies 96 Demonstration 150
Insurance 97 Client suitability 151
Personal health, hygiene and presentation 97 Targets 151
Suggestions for personal presentation 98 Productivity 151
General rules for employees 98 Gaining client feedback 152
Ethics 99
Diet, exercise and sleep 100 5 Professional Development
154
Posture 100
Personal hygiene 101 Unit Topic 155
Hygiene and infection control in the workplace 104 Personal performance at work 156
Skin diseases and disorders 107 Example: Beauty therapy code of conduct
Bacterial infections 108 requirements 157
Viral infections 110 Job roles and responsibilities 158
Infestations 112 Client care 160
Fungal diseases 114 Communication skills 161
Sebaceous gland disorders 115 Avoiding client dissatisfaction 163
Pigmentation disorders 118 Complaints 164
Vascular (circulatory) disorders 120 Dealing with client dissatisfaction or complaint 165
Cellular naevi or moles 122 Improving your performance 166
Skin disorders involving abnormal cellular growth 125 Setting targets 167
CONTENTS vii
Personal effectiveness against targets set 169 Consultation 228
Being positive about non-positive feedback 169 Contra-indications 232
Developing confidence and experience within Preparing the client 233
the job role 170 Cleansing 234
Effective teamwork 170 Cleansing preparations 234
Punctuality 172 Cleansing service 238
Working under pressure 172 Toning 243
Absence from work 172 Toning preparations 243
Grievances 175 Application 245
Blotting the skin 246
6 Reception Moisturizing 246
178
Moisturizers for daytime use 247
Unit Topic 179 Moisturizers for night-time use 249
First impressions 180 Specialist skin service products 249
Reception area 181 Contra-indications 251
Data Protection Act (DPA) (1998) 184 Advice on home use 253
The receptionist duties 184 Warming the skin 254
The importance of good communication 186 Removing skin blockages – extraction 257
Telephone communication 188 Tools and equipment 258
Transferring calls 189 Sterilization and disinfection 258
Taking messages 189 Service application 259
Listening skills 190 Mask service 261
Dealing with a dissatisfied client or complaint 191 Setting masks 261
Appointments 191 Non-setting masks 263
Bookings 191 Contra-indications 264
Dealing with appointment problems 195 Tools and equipment 265
The payment point 196 Mask service 265
Types of payment points 196 Facial massage 268
Equipment and materials required 197 Reception 269
Security at the payment point 198 Massage manipulations 269
Methods of payment 199 Tools and equipment 271
Loyalty cards 202 After the massage 277
Advice on home care 277
7 Facials Specialist facial service 277
204
Aftercare 279
Unit Topic 205
Caring for the skin 206 8 Eyebrows and Lashes
Threats to the skin 210 282
Internal 210 Unit Topic 283
External 211 Eyebrow shaping 284
Skincare services 214 Preparing the work area for eyebrow shaping 284
Skin types 214 Tools and equipment 285
Basic types 215 Specialist tools and equipment 285
Additional skin conditions 218 Setting up the work area 286
The sex of the client 220 Sterilization and disinfection 287
The age of the skin 220 Client care, consultation and communication 287
Differences in skin 221 Reception requirements 287
Preparing the work area for facial service 225 Client arrival 287
Tools and equipment 225 Consultation 288
Client care, consultation and communication 227 Choosing an eyebrow shape 289
Reception requirements 227 H ow to measure the eyebrows to decide length 291
Client arrival 228 Contra-indications 292
viii CONTENTS
Contra-actions 295 Concealing blemishes 347
Aftercare advice 298 Applying concealer to blemishes 348
Permanent eyebrow and eyelash tinting 299 How to apply concealer to disguise skin pigmentation
The development of colour 300 disorders 349
Preparing the work area for permanent tinting 300 Foundation 351
Tools and equipment 300 Types of foundation 352
Setting up the work area 301 Foundation colour 355
Sterilization and disinfection 301 Applying foundation 357
Reception requirements 302 Contouring 358
Skin sensitivity (patch) test 303 Contour cosmetics 358
Client care, consultation and communication skills 303 How to apply powder blushers 359
Contra-indications 304 How to apply cream blushers 360
Contra-actions 305 How to apply liquid blushers 360
Tint the eyebrows and lashes 305 Face shapes 360
Tinting the eyelashes 306 Features 362
Tinting the eyebrows 308 Face powder 363
Aftercare advice 310 Types of face powder 363
Artificial eyelashes 311 How to apply powder 364
Preparing the work area for artificial eyelashes 312 Bronzing products 365
Tools and equipment 312 Types of bronzing product 365
Setting up the work area 312 The eyes 365
Sterilization and disinfection 313 Eyeshadow 365
Reception requirements 313 How to apply eyeshadow 366
Client care, consultation and communication skills 314 Eyeliner 367
Contra-indications 316 Eyebrow colour 368
Contra-actions 317 Mascara 369
Preparing the client 317 Eye make-up for the client who wears glasses 371
Applying individual flare lashes 317 How to apply corrective eye make-up 371
Applying strip lashes 319 The eyelashes 373
How to remove individual eyelashes 321 The lips 374
How to remove strip lashes 322 Lip liner 374
How to recurl strip lashes 323 Lipstick 374
Aftercare advice 323 Lip gloss 375
9 Make-up Lip stain 375
328
Lip balm 375
Unit Topic 329 How to apply corrective lip make-up 375
Make-up services 330 How to apply lipstick 376
Preparing the work area for make-up services 331 Finishing the service 378
Tools and equipment 332 Aftercare advice 378
Specialist tools and equipment 333 The client’s needs 379
Sterilization and disinfection 336 Day make-up 379
Client care, consultation and communication 337 Evening make-up 380
Reception requirements 337 Special occasion make-up 380
Client arrival 338 Photographic make-up 380
Consultation 339 Make-up to suit skin and hair colouring 381
Contra-indications 340 Make-up for the mature skin 383
Contra-actions 342
Preparing the client 342 10 Instruction in Skincare
Applying make-up products 345 and Make-up
390
The make-up sequence 345
Age of the client 346 Unit Topic 391
Concealer 347 Make-up instruction 392
CONTENTS ix
Preparing the work area for instruction in skincare and Reception requirements 460
make-up 392 Consultation 461
Tools and equipment 393 Service plan 461
Sterilization and disinfection 393 Skin and nail disorders of the feet 462
Client care, consultation and communication 394 Preparing the client 466
Reception requirements 394 Cutting and filing toenails 469
Consultation 394 Removing hard skin 470
Communication skills 396 Foot and nail services 471
Contra-indications and contra-actions 396 Foot and lower leg massage 474
Preparing the client 397 Nail polish application 476
Instruction and application of skincare and make-up 398 Aftercare advice 477
Use of diagrams 399
Verbal explanation 399 13 Wax Depilation
482
Use of written instructions 400
Deliver Make-Up Instruction: Step-By-Steps 401 Unit Topic 483
Evaluating the instruction provided 404 Hair removal methods 484
Other methods of hair removal 486
11 Manicure Permanent methods of hair removal 488
408
H air regrowth following temporary methods of hair
Unit Topic 409 removal 488
Preparing the work area for manicure 410 Preparing the work area for wax depilation 489
Tools and equipment 413 Tools and equipment 489
Sterilization and disinfection 416 Types of wax 490
Client care, consultation and communication 417 Basic equipment 491
Reception requirements 417 Sterilization and disinfection 492
Consultation 418 Client care, consultation and communication 493
Skin and nail disorders of the hands 419 Reception requirements 493
Service plan 426 Consultation 495
Preparing the client 427 Contra-indications 496
Filing 431 Contra-actions 499
Buffing 433 Preparing the client 501
Cuticle work 434 Warm wax techniques 503
Hand and nail services 435 Providing a half-leg wax service 504
Warm-oil service 435 Full-leg service 507
Exfoliating service 435 How to provide a bikini line service 507
Hand service mask 436 Providing an underarm service 508
Paraffin wax service 436 How to provide an eyebrow service 511
Thermal mitts 437 Aftercare and advice 512
Hand and forearm massage 439 Hot waxing 514
Nail polish application 442 Equipment and materials 514
Styles of polish application 442 Providing hot wax service 514
Manicure for a male client 446 Sugaring and strip sugar 516
Aftercare 448 Reception requirements 516
Exercises for the hands 449 Tools and equipment 516
Providing a strip sugar service 518
12 Pedicure Disposable applicator roller waxing systems 518
454
Unit Topic 455 14 Spa
Preparing the work area for pedicure 457 522
Tools and equipment 458 Unit Topic 523
Sterilization and disinfection 460 Spa services 524
Client care, consultation and communication skills 460 General effects of spa therapy services 525
