Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook

235 Pages·2012·1.61 MB·English

Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook

Kitab al tabikh fi-l-Maghrib wa-l-Andalus fi `asr al-Muwahhidin, li-
mu'allif majhul.
The Book of Cooking in Maghreb and Andalus in the era of
Almohads, by an unknown author.
i
13th Century Al-Andalus Cookbook

Table of Contents

PREFACE...............................................................................................................................................................1
CHAPTER 1: HEALTHFUL COOKING.........................................................................................................................6
According to Hippocrates.................................................................................................................................6
On What Foods Should be Taken Alone and Should Not be Mixed with Other Foods...................................6
The Customs that Many People Follow in Their Countries.............................................................................6
Breads..............................................................................................................................................................7
Hygiene............................................................................................................................................................7
Basic Ingredients.............................................................................................................................................8
Utensils..........................................................................................................................................................10
Of the Utensils that Those Charged with Cooking or Pharmacy Must Have Ready.....................................10
How the Service of Dishes is Ordered, and Which is Fitting to be First, and Which Last.............................11
CHAPTER 2: DRINKS AND SYRUPS........................................................................................................................12
The Great Drink of Roots...............................................................................................................................12
The Little Drink of Roots: Way of Making It..................................................................................................12
Making Raison Drink......................................................................................................................................13
Recipe for Honey-Water................................................................................................................................13
Syrup of Aloe Wood: Way of Making It.........................................................................................................13
Syrup of Citron Leaves: Way of Making It....................................................................................................13
The Great Cheering Syrup: Way of Making It...............................................................................................14
A Syrup of [spiced] Honey.............................................................................................................................14
The Recipe for Making a Syrup of Julep [rosewater syrup]...........................................................................14
Syrup of Sandalwood: Way of Making It.......................................................................................................14
Formula for Making a Syrup of Mastic [and Mint]..........................................................................................15
Syrup of Mulberries: Way of Making It..........................................................................................................15
Syrup of Mint: Way of Making It....................................................................................................................15
Syrup of Fresh Roses, and the Recipe for Making It.....................................................................................16
A Recipe for Making It by Repetition.............................................................................................................16
Syrup of Dried Roses.....................................................................................................................................16
Syrup of Violets..............................................................................................................................................16
Manner of Making a Syrup of Maryût.............................................................................................................16
Syrup of Hyssop.............................................................................................................................................17
Syrup of Basil.................................................................................................................................................17
Syrup of Simple Sikanjabîn [vinegar syrup]...................................................................................................17
Syrup of Pomegranates.................................................................................................................................18
Syrup of Sour Grapes [verjuice].....................................................................................................................18
Syrup of Flowers of Isfitân [possibly isfinar --white mustard].........................................................................18
Syrup of Lavender [Halhâl]............................................................................................................................18
Syrup of Lemon..............................................................................................................................................18
A Syrup of Greens.........................................................................................................................................19
A Syrup which Dries Black Bile and Phlegm.................................................................................................19
Syrup of Jujubes............................................................................................................................................19
Syrup of Thistle..............................................................................................................................................19
Syrup of Tamarind.........................................................................................................................................20
Syrup of Carrots.............................................................................................................................................20
Syrup of Apples..............................................................................................................................................20
CHAPTER 3: PASTES [AND JAMS, JELLIES].............................................................................................................21
Carrot Paste [carrot jam]................................................................................................................................21
Green Walnut Paste [walnut jam]..................................................................................................................21
Quince Paste [quince jam and jelly]...............................................................................................................21
Paste of Honeyed Roses [rose jam]..............................................................................................................22
ii
13th Century Al-Andalus Cookbook

Violet Paste [violet jam]..................................................................................................................................22
Mint Paste [mint jam].....................................................................................................................................22
Tîqantast Paste [prickly pear jam]..................................................................................................................22
Qirsa'nat Paste [Thistle jam]..........................................................................................................................22
A Paste which Fortifies the Stomach, the Liver, and the Brain [seed paste].................................................23
Orange Paste [orange marmalade]...............................................................................................................23
Caraway Paste...............................................................................................................................................23
Recipe for Making Sinâb [mustard paste]......................................................................................................23
CHAPTER 4: MEDICINAL ELECTUARIES AND POWDERS...........................................................................................25
Electuary of Mint............................................................................................................................................25
Electuary of Aloe............................................................................................................................................25
Electuary of Cloves........................................................................................................................................25
Electuary of Musk..........................................................................................................................................25
Electuary of Ginger and Pepper.....................................................................................................................25
Electuary of Red Sandalwood........................................................................................................................26
Electuary of White Sandalwood.....................................................................................................................26
Powder to Dry the Lungs...............................................................................................................................26
Another Delicate Medicinal Powder...............................................................................................................26
Powders That Digest The Food.....................................................................................................................26
Spice Mixture.................................................................................................................................................26
CHAPTER 5: LIGHT DISHES FOR A WEAK STOMACH, AND MEDICINAL DISHES..........................................................27
Information About Weak Stomachs...............................................................................................................27
The Extraction of Meat Juice for Invalids [concentrated meat broth].............................................................27
A Dish which Reduces Appetite and Strengthens the Stomach....................................................................27
A Dish of Meat Juice [against fever]..............................................................................................................27
A Dish of Meat Juice Effective on the Day of Fever for Illness, after the Illness Decreases.........................28
Recipe of a Summer Dish of Praised Nutrition with Sour Grape Juice and Gourd.......................................28
Another Like It, a Summer Dish that Cools the Body....................................................................................28
Another Dish Which Strengthens the Stomach Before Heat.........................................................................29
Preparation of Tuffâhiyya, Apple Stew..........................................................................................................29
A Dish of Safarjaliyya, Good for the Stomach...............................................................................................29
Sikbâj of Veal, Used for Young People in Summer.......................................................................................29
A Dish Suitable for Autumn............................................................................................................................29
A Dish Made in Winter for Those with Cold Illnesses....................................................................................30
A Dish of Pullets Suitable for the Aged and Those with Moistness...............................................................30
Recipe for the Dish Mentioned by Al-Razi.....................................................................................................30
Recipe for Zîrbâja [sweet and sour soup, chicken, pigeon, dove, lamb].......................................................30
Jûdhâba Beneficial for the Cold and It Strengthens Coitus [mincemeat quiche]...........................................31
CHAPTER 6: BREADS...........................................................................................................................................32
Rafis [flat bread, loaf, also raghif]..................................................................................................................32
Leavened White or Semolina Bread..............................................................................................................32
Making Isfunj [leavened semolina egg bread]...............................................................................................32
Flaky Loaf [Khubza Muwarraqa]....................................................................................................................32
Loaf Kneaded with Butter...............................................................................................................................33
Recipe for Folded Bread from Ifriqiyya [Tunisia]............................................................................................33
Loaf Fried in Honey and Butter [honey, saffron loaf].....................................................................................34
A Recipe for Stuffed Sweet Breads [sugar-almond rolled loaf and fried pastries].........................................34
Making of Elegant Isfunja [sweet, buttery bread]...........................................................................................34
Recipe for Murakkaba Kutâmiyya [layered sweet buttery bread]..................................................................35
Recipe for Murakkaba Layered with Dates [sweet bread layered with dates]...............................................35
Recipe for Shabât with Fat [fried, flaky breads].............................................................................................36
Recipe for Mushahhada [pancakes]..............................................................................................................36
Simple Isfîriyâ [crepes]...................................................................................................................................37
The Making of Khabîs [starch and very thin starch crepes, warqas, phillo]..................................................37
Preparation of Khubaiz [starch] that is Made in Niebla [and starch crepes]..................................................38
Counterfeit Isfîriyâ [crepe] of Garbanzos [chickpea flour]..............................................................................39
iii
13th Century Al-Andalus Cookbook

Preparation of Muwarraqa Musammana [buttery, flaky, puff pastry dough]..................................................39
Preparation of Sanbûsak [stuffed, fried dumplings, samosas]......................................................................40
CHAPTER 7: THARÎDAS [BREAD PUDDINGS]............................................................................................................41
Tharîdas.........................................................................................................................................................41
The Perfect Tharîda [The Complete Tharîda]................................................................................................41
Vinegar Tharîda, Which is One of the Best...................................................................................................42
White Tharîda with Onion, called Kâfûriyya [Camphor-White]......................................................................42
A Green [Tharîda ] Dish Stuffed with Almonds..............................................................................................42
Fish Tharîda [fish in a green pond]................................................................................................................42
Tharîda Mudhakkar with Vinegar and Whole Onions....................................................................................43
Tharîda with Lamb and Spinach, Moist Cheese and Butter..........................................................................43
Tharîda in the Style of the People of Bijaya...................................................................................................43
Tharîda that the People of Ifriqiyya [Tunisia] Call Fatîr.................................................................................44
Tharîda Made with Fattened Chickens or with Well-Fed, Fattened Capons.................................................44
Tharîda Made with Garbanzo Water, Chicken, Cheese and Olives..............................................................44
Recipe for a Tharîdas oaked in the Fat [and Flesh] of Ten Fattened Chickens............................................45
Tharîda of Chicken.........................................................................................................................................45
Tharîda of Meat..............................................................................................................................................45
Tharîda of Meat and [Stuffed] Eggplants.......................................................................................................45
Tharîda of Zabarbada [onion]........................................................................................................................46
Tharîda of Meat with Turnips and Walnuts....................................................................................................46
Al-Ghassani's Tharîda....................................................................................................................................46
Tharîda of Lamb with Garbanzos [and Cheese]............................................................................................46
Tharîda with Heads of Swiss Chard..............................................................................................................47
Preparation of a Tharîda of Two Chickens, One Stuffed With the Other......................................................47
Recipe for Tharîda Shabât.............................................................................................................................48
Making Muhallabiyya [mincemeat, layered tharîda quiche]...........................................................................48
Tharîda of Khabîs [wheat starch] with Two Chickens [in honey]...................................................................49
Recipe for the Dish Mentioned by Al-Razi [veal tharîda]...............................................................................49
Recipe for Mu'allak [Mutton, milk and cheese]..............................................................................................50
CHAPTER 8: RICE, COUSCOUS, NOODLE… DISHES...............................................................................................51
Soldiers' Couscous [Kuskusû Fityâni]............................................................................................................51
Couscous Made with Crumbs of the Finest White Bread [Tharîda ]..............................................................51
Recipe for Fidaush [fresh pasta]....................................................................................................................51
Preparation of the Cooking of Itriyya [dried pasta].........................................................................................51
Preparation of Rice Cooked Over Water [in a double boiler].........................................................................52
How Rice Is Cooked in the East [oven cooked rice]......................................................................................52
Recipe for Rice Dissolved With Sugar [sweet rice pudding]..........................................................................52
Information about Harîsa According to its Kinds [savory meat puddings].....................................................53
The Method of Making It [Harîsa, savory wheat, meat mush].......................................................................53
Rice Harîsa [savory rice meat pudding].........................................................................................................54
Recipe for Harîsa Made with White Bread Crumbs Instead of Wheat [Tharîda , savory bread pudding].....54
Royal Jashîsha Which Provides Wholesome Nutrition [savory mush]..........................................................54
Good Jashîsha: It Fattens Thin Women and Men [wheat, rice, chickpea mush].........................................54
CHAPTER 9: NON-MEAT DISHES...........................................................................................................................56
The Making of Stuffed Eggs...........................................................................................................................56
Another Egg Dish [boiled eggs in a sauce]....................................................................................................56
Recipe of Fartûn [scrambled eggs cooked in a form]....................................................................................56
Stuffed Eggs...................................................................................................................................................56
Zabarbada [Zîrbâja] of Fresh Cheese [fondue]..............................................................................................57
Recipe for Mujabbana [cheese puffs]...........................................................................................................57
Recipe for Eggs Mujabbana [cheese puffs with egg pastry]..........................................................................58
Recipe for the Three-Part Mujabbana [cheese puffs]....................................................................................58
Recipe for a Semolina Mujabbana [cheese puffs with almonds]...................................................................58
Mujabbana [Cheese Pastry] of Raghîfs [flat breads].....................................................................................58
Recipe for Oven Cheese Pastry, Which We Call Toledan............................................................................59
iv
13th Century Al-Andalus Cookbook

Recipe for Qaijâta [layered cheese pastry]....................................................................................................59
Dish of Stuffed Eggplants [fried]....................................................................................................................59
A Dish of Eggplants with Saffron [fried eggplant]..........................................................................................60
A Dish of Eggplants [cassarole].....................................................................................................................60
Preparation of Musa'tar [Thyme] of Eggplants [cassarole]............................................................................60
Preparation of Arnabi [baked eggplant with thyme and saffron]....................................................................61
Description of Mahshi with Eggplants [cassarole].........................................................................................61
Preparing Mahshi with Eggplants and Cheese [cassarole]...........................................................................61
Recipe for Sprinkled [batter-fried] Eggplants.................................................................................................61
Recipe for the Fried Version of the Same [floured-fried]...............................................................................62
Eggplant Isfîriyâ [crepes or pancakes]...........................................................................................................62
A Vegetarian Version of the Same [eggplants] Prepared by Ibn Muthanna [whole eggplants].....................62
Recipe for the Same Dish, Browned Version [ratatouille]..............................................................................62
Recipe for the Boiled Version of It [eggplant halves].....................................................................................62
Three vegetable dishes from the cookbook of Ibrahim b. al-Mahdi...............................................................63
Recipe for a Dish of Gourd Resembling Fish [batter fried]............................................................................63
A Muzawwara [Vegetable Dish] Beneficial for Tertian Fevers and Acute Fevers.........................................63
Jannâniyya [the Gardener's Dish] [a vegetable omlette]...............................................................................63
CHAPTER 10: JEWISH DISHES..............................................................................................................................65
Jewish Partridge [stuffed]...............................................................................................................................65
A Jewish Dish of Partridge.............................................................................................................................65
A Jewish Dish of Chicken..............................................................................................................................65
A Jewish Dish of Chicken [with stuffing]........................................................................................................66
A Stuffed, Buried Jewish Dish [cassarole].....................................................................................................66
A Jewish Dish of Eggplants Stuffed with Meat..............................................................................................67
CHAPTER 11: FISH DISHES...................................................................................................................................68
Advice on Fish Dishes in Their Varieties.......................................................................................................68
Recipe for Large Fish Such as Qabtûn and Fahl and Those Similar to Them..............................................68
Green Tafâyâ [stew] of Fish...........................................................................................................................68
Basbâsiyya, a Fennel Dish............................................................................................................................68
White Tafâyâ [stew] of the Same...................................................................................................................69
Recipe for Fish in the Style of Jimli................................................................................................................69
Another Version of the Same.........................................................................................................................69
Dish made with Sarda [Pilchard], One of the Good Classes of Fish.............................................................69
Recipe for Munashshâ, a Dish Made with Starch..........................................................................................70
Fish Murawwaj...............................................................................................................................................70
Mahshi of Mixed Fish.....................................................................................................................................70
Sprinkled Fish [batter fried fish].....................................................................................................................71
Meatballs and Patties [Ahrash] of Fish..........................................................................................................71
Burâniyya of Fish...........................................................................................................................................71
Preparing Fish Roe........................................................................................................................................71
A Pie of Sea or River Fish..............................................................................................................................72
A Dish of Large Fish......................................................................................................................................72
Making Fresh Fish with Eggs.........................................................................................................................72
Tortoise or Mullet Pie.....................................................................................................................................73
CHAPTER 12: SAUSAGE, MEATBALLS, MEAT PATTIES, MEATLOAFS........................................................................74
Recipe for Mirkâs [Merguez Sausage]...........................................................................................................74
Mirkâs with Fresh Cheese.............................................................................................................................74
Recipe for an Extraordinary Sausage............................................................................................................74
Recipe for Eggplant Mirkâs............................................................................................................................74
The Making of Another Marrow [sausage].....................................................................................................75
The Making of Another Marrow [sausage].....................................................................................................75
Meatball Dish.................................................................................................................................................75
Recipe for Meatballs Used in Some Dishes, such as Tafâyâ [stew], Jimli, and Others................................75
A Dish of Meatballs........................................................................................................................................76
Another Dish of Meatballs..............................................................................................................................76
v
13th Century Al-Andalus Cookbook

A Similar Mutajjan with Meat Balls [meatball omelet]....................................................................................76
Preparation of Meatballs from Chicken Breasts............................................................................................76
Preparation of Meatballs from Any Meat You Wish.......................................................................................76
Recipe for Making Ahrash [Fried Flattened Meatballs]..................................................................................76
A Type of Ahrash [small meat patty]..............................................................................................................77
Recipe for Making Ahrash [small meat patty]................................................................................................77
Meatballs and Patties [Ahrash] of Fish..........................................................................................................77
A Recipe of Isfîriyâ [small meat patty]...........................................................................................................77
To Make Isfîriyâ [small meat patty]................................................................................................................78
Isfîriyâ [small meat patty] in the Manner of the Market Folk..........................................................................78
Another Dish [ground meat, meatballs, sausages]........................................................................................78
The Making of Qâdûs [meatloaf]....................................................................................................................79
A Qâdûs with Meatballs [meatloaf with meatballs]........................................................................................79
Preparing Râhibi [Meatloaf], the Monk's Dish................................................................................................80
How to Make Râhibi [Meatloaf]......................................................................................................................80
Another Râhibi [Meatloaf] Recipe..................................................................................................................80
Another Râhibi [Meatloaf] Dish of the Same With [Onion] Drippings............................................................80
Râhibi [Meatloaf] in a Tajine [round clay casserole]......................................................................................81
CHAPTER 13: LAMB DISHES.................................................................................................................................82
Recipe for a Good Dish..................................................................................................................................82
Fresh [Green] Beans With Meat, Called Fustuqiyya [Pistachio]....................................................................82
To Make Isfîriyâ [small meat patty]................................................................................................................82
Isfîriyâ [small meat patty] in the Manner of the Market Folk..........................................................................82
Another Dish [ground meat, meatballs, sausages]........................................................................................83
Roast Lamb....................................................................................................................................................83
Lamb Roast Badî'i..........................................................................................................................................84
Ram Roast with Its Skin.................................................................................................................................84
A Dish of Auhashi of Fat Ram........................................................................................................................84
Roast Lamb, which was made for the Sayyid Abu al-'Ala in Ceuta...............................................................84
Roast Ram Breast [flank]...............................................................................................................................85
Another Kind of Lamb Breast.........................................................................................................................85
Another Extraordinarily Good Lamb Breast...................................................................................................85
Dish of Lamb With Truffles.............................................................................................................................86
Stuffing Lamb with Cheese............................................................................................................................86
Dish of Chestnuts with Lamb.........................................................................................................................86
The making of Badî'i, the Remarkable Dish...................................................................................................86
Recipe for Barmakiyya [meat pie]..................................................................................................................87
Stuffed Lamb Breast in the Oven...................................................................................................................87
A Dish With Prunes [Ijjâs]..............................................................................................................................87
Baqliyya Mukarrara [spinach and lamb].........................................................................................................88
A Baqliyya of Ziryab's.....................................................................................................................................88
Safarjaliyya, a Dish Made With Quinces [lamb, veal]....................................................................................88
Tuffâhiyya, a Dish Made With Apples [lamb, veal, chicken, squab]..............................................................88
Preparing Tuffâhiyya [Apple Stew] with Eggplants [and lamb]......................................................................89
A Pie [Mukhabbazah] of Lamb.......................................................................................................................89
Recipe for the Roast of Kings........................................................................................................................89
Simple White Tafâyâ [stew], Called Isfîdhbâja..............................................................................................90
Recipe for White Tafâyâ [stew]......................................................................................................................90
Recipe for White Tafâyâ [stew] with Almonds...............................................................................................90
Recipe for Fried Tafâyâ [stew], Which Was Known in Morocco as Tâhashast.............................................90
Another Kind of Tafâyâ [stew]: the Eastern Style.........................................................................................90
The Making of Another Marrow [sausage].....................................................................................................91
The Making of Another Marrow [sausage].....................................................................................................91
Tharîda with Lamb and Spinach, Moist Cheese and Butter..........................................................................91
Tharîda in the Style of the People of Bijaya...................................................................................................91
Tharîda of Lamb with Garbanzos [and Cheese]............................................................................................92
vi
13th Century Al-Andalus Cookbook

A Jewish Dish of Eggplants Stuffed with Meat [lamb]....................................................................................92
Recipe for Zîrbâja [sweet and sour soup, chicken, pigeon, dove, lamb].......................................................92
CHAPTER 14: BEEF, MUTTON, KID, RABBIT DISHES...............................................................................................94
Royal Sanhâji [Beef cassarole]......................................................................................................................94
The Dish Misri [Egyptian Beef or Mutton oven dish]......................................................................................94
A Dish Praised in Springtime for Those with Fullness and Those with Burning Blood [chicken, partridge,
quail, veal]......................................................................................................................................................94
Safarjaliyya, a Dish Made With Quinces [lamb, veal]....................................................................................94
Tuffâhiyya, a Dish Made With Apples [lamb, veal, chicken, squab]..............................................................95
The Dish Jimli [Beef or Mutton]......................................................................................................................95
The Dish Mukhallal [Beef or Mutton, a vinegar dish].....................................................................................95
Preparing Râhibi [Meatloaf], the Monk's Dish................................................................................................96
How to Make Râhibi [Meatloaf, mutton, veal]................................................................................................96
Another Râhibi [Meatloaf] Recipe..................................................................................................................96
Another Râhibi [Meatloaf] Dish of the Same With [Onion] Drippings............................................................96
Râhibi [Meatloaf] in a Tajine [round clay casserole, mutton, veal]................................................................96
Honey [Mutton] Recipe [with sweet dumplings].............................................................................................97
Preparing Saqlabiyya [Dish of the Saqaliba] [Mutton]...................................................................................97
Qar'iyya, a Dish of Gourd [Mutton].................................................................................................................98
The Dish Sinâbi [Mustard Mutton]..................................................................................................................98
Stuffed and Roast Mutton; Called "The Complete" [or "The Inclusive"]........................................................98
Recipe for the Dish Known as Maghmûm [Veiled] [Mutton]..........................................................................98
Recipe for Small Birds Made of Sheep's Meat [Mutton]................................................................................99
Complete Jimliyya [Mutton]............................................................................................................................99
Making Baqliyya with Eggplants [Mutton, layered cassarole]........................................................................99
Mu'allak and Maqlû [Mutton]..........................................................................................................................99
Recipe for Mu'allak [Mutton, milk and cheese]..............................................................................................99
Recipe for Maqlû [Mutton, cooked in milk]..................................................................................................100
The Preparation of Bilâja [Mutton, boil, fry and roast].................................................................................100
Muthallath with Heads of Lettuce [Mutton]..................................................................................................100
Preparation of Burâniyya [Mutton with Eggplant, boil, fry, bake]...............................................................100
Preparing The Complete Burâniyya [Mutton with lamb and eggplant].......................................................101
A Dish of Eggplants Without Vinegar [Mutton and Eggplant].....................................................................101
Preparing Tabâhaja of Burâniyya [Eggplant Mutton dish]..........................................................................101
Dish of Eggplant [Mutton and eggplant]......................................................................................................102
Jûdhâba Beneficial for the Cold and It Strengthens Coitus [mincemeat quiche]........................................102
Roast in a Tajine [Kid].................................................................................................................................102
Tabâhaja, Which is Fried Meat [Kid]...........................................................................................................103
Another Tabâhajiyya [Kid]...........................................................................................................................103
Another Tabâhajiyya [Kid]...........................................................................................................................103
Another Tabâhajiyya [Kid with nuts and pomegranate]..............................................................................103
Another with Pistachios and Sugar [Kid].....................................................................................................103
The Making of Qâdûs [meatloaf, kid]..........................................................................................................104
A Dish of Hare.............................................................................................................................................104
Recipe for Roast Hare................................................................................................................................104
Stuffed Rabbit.............................................................................................................................................105
Qanûra of Rabbit in a Frying-Pan, which is Notable...................................................................................105
An Extraordinary Stuffed Rabbit.................................................................................................................105
CHAPTER 15: GENERIC MEAT DISHES...............................................................................................................107
Information About Baqliyyat [Vegetable Dishes] and Mukhaddarat [Greened Dishes]..............................107
Sweetened Mukhallal [a vinegar dish]........................................................................................................107
Note on the Kinds of Roast.........................................................................................................................107
Stuffed Burâniyya [eggplant].......................................................................................................................108
Another Type of Mahshi [stuffed eggplant].................................................................................................108
Another Recipe for the Same [eggplant].....................................................................................................109
A Remarkable Stuffed Mutajjan [meat omlette]..........................................................................................109
vii
13th Century Al-Andalus Cookbook

Sanhâji [stew of everything]........................................................................................................................109
A Roast of Meat..........................................................................................................................................110
Another Roast of Meat................................................................................................................................110
Recipe for a Pot-Roast, Good for the Old, the Moist of Body and Moist Stomachs...................................110
A Dish Made with Khabîs [starch]...............................................................................................................110
A Dish of Sikbâj, Praised for its Nutritive Value [vinegar dish]...................................................................110
Recipe for Khubaiz with Meat [starch, honey-saffron]................................................................................111
A Sicilian Dish [onion-meat dish]................................................................................................................111
Preparation known as Hashîshiyya, a Grassy Dish [bird in dough]............................................................111
Preparation of Chestnut Qaliyya.................................................................................................................112
Preparing Covered Tabâhajiyya [Tabahajiyya Maghmuma, meat-onion dish]...........................................112
Dish of Meat With Pistachio........................................................................................................................112
Preparing the Servants' Dish [baked meat omlette]...................................................................................112
Eggplant Dish Known as the Arabic [egg and meat]..................................................................................112
A Dish of Eggs with Meat............................................................................................................................113
Another Badî'I [meat omlette].....................................................................................................................113
A Remarkable Tajine [meat omlette]..........................................................................................................113
Dish Prepared With Fried Eggplant............................................................................................................113
Dish with Truffles and Meat........................................................................................................................114
Preparing Liftiyya [a Dish of Turnips] with Walnuts and Sugar...................................................................114
Meat Soup with Cabbage............................................................................................................................114
Persian Muthallath......................................................................................................................................114
Preparing a Dish With Cardoon [artichoke]................................................................................................115
Preparing a Dish of Cardoons with Meat [artichokes]................................................................................115
Preparation of Baqliyya of Asparagus........................................................................................................115
Preparing Asparagus with Meat Coating....................................................................................................115
Making Baqliyya of Asparagus....................................................................................................................116
Preparing Mallow With Jerked Meat...........................................................................................................116
Preparing the Dish Dictated by Abu Ishaq..................................................................................................116
Making 'Umâniyya [or possibly 'Ammâniyya]..............................................................................................116
Meat Roasted Over Coals...........................................................................................................................116
Preparing Maslûq al-Saqâliba, Boiled Dish of the Saqaliba [tripe].............................................................116
Al-Ghassani's Tharîda.................................................................................................................................117
Sa'tariyya, a Thyme-flavored Dish..............................................................................................................117
Rashîdiyya..................................................................................................................................................117
A Good Dish................................................................................................................................................118
A Roast of Stuffed Shimâs [oven omlette]..................................................................................................118
Preparation of Plain Liftiyya Also [turnip stew]............................................................................................118
Recipe for White Karanbiyya......................................................................................................................118
Recipe for Clarified [or Repeated] Liftiyya..................................................................................................119
Basbâsiyya [a dish of fennel]......................................................................................................................119
Safarjaliyya, a Dish Made With Quinces [lamb, veal].................................................................................119
Tuffâhiyya, a Dish Made With Apples [lamb, veal, chicken, squab]...........................................................120
Preparing Narjisiyya [Narcissus-stew] With Carrots...................................................................................120
Preparation of Sanbûsak [stuffed, fried dumplings, samosas]...................................................................120
Tafâyâ [green stew]....................................................................................................................................120
Covered Tafâyâ [green stew]......................................................................................................................121
Stuffed Tafâyâ [green stew]........................................................................................................................121
Tafâyâ [stew] Saqlabiyya [Slav stew, white]...............................................................................................121
A Dish of Murri from Any Meat You Wish...................................................................................................121
Burâniyya [stuffed eggplant].......................................................................................................................121
A Remarkable Dish in Which is Safîriyya of Eggs......................................................................................122
A Dish With Eggplants................................................................................................................................122
Jimliyya.......................................................................................................................................................122
Green Dish..................................................................................................................................................122
Dish of Meat with Walnuts and Mastic........................................................................................................123
viii
13th Century Al-Andalus Cookbook

Dish of Meat with Cauliflower......................................................................................................................123
Safarjaliyya, a Quince Dish.........................................................................................................................123
Dish Known as Mulahwaj [the Hasty Dish].................................................................................................123
Himmasiyya [a garbanzo dish, hummus with meat]...................................................................................124
Stuffed Asparagus [meat wrapped asparagus dish]...................................................................................124
Another Good Dish.....................................................................................................................................124
Recipe for a Good Dish Covered With Pine-nuts.......................................................................................125
To Make the Dish Asfar [The Yellow Dish].................................................................................................125
On the Making of Marrow............................................................................................................................126
The Making of Marrow Without Marrow, Which No One Will Suspect.......................................................126
The Making of a Good Marrow, Which Will Not Be Doubted......................................................................126
CHAPTER 16: CHICKEN DISHES.........................................................................................................................127
Making a Green Hen [cilantro chicken].......................................................................................................127
A Dish of Chicken [spicy, nut chicken]........................................................................................................127
Farrûj Maghlûq, a Closed Dish of Chicken.................................................................................................127
A Chicken Pie..............................................................................................................................................127
Chicken Breasts [with almonds]..................................................................................................................128
A Jointed Hen, Veiled [oven roasted] and this dish with partridge is also extraordinary [chicken, partridge]
....................................................................................................................................................................128
Another Dish Like That with Saffron [chicken, partridge]............................................................................128
Another Like Dish [chicken, partridge]........................................................................................................128
Spit Roasted Chicken with Stuffed Eggplants............................................................................................129
Recipe for a Dish of Chicken or Partridge with Quince or Apple................................................................129
Tajine of Birds' Giblets [giblet omelet].........................................................................................................129
A Dish of Fried Chicken [with omelet].........................................................................................................130
Lamtûniyya [spit roasted fowl, with garlic nut sauce]..................................................................................130
A Coral Dish of Chicken..............................................................................................................................130
Recipe for "Hunchbacked" Chicken............................................................................................................131
A Pie of Pullets or Starlings........................................................................................................................131
Recipe for a Dish of Pullet or Partridge......................................................................................................132
A Reddish-Brown Dish of Chicken..............................................................................................................132
Palace Chicken with Mustard......................................................................................................................133
Farrûj Mubarrad, Ginger and Lavender Chicken........................................................................................133
A Dish of Chicken with Mild Wine...............................................................................................................133
Recipe for a Stuffed Hen Without Bones [stuffed chicken skin].................................................................133
An Extraordinary Dish of Chicken [coal roasted, with sauce, meatballs and sausages]............................134
Recipe for Making Jûdhâba [aromatic roast chicken].................................................................................134
Dish of Chicken When it is Roasted...........................................................................................................135
Dish of Chicken or Whatever Meat You Please [sausage of chicken, partridge].......................................136
Bedouin Chicken [simple dish]....................................................................................................................136
Dish of Stuffed Chicken [or Pullet]..............................................................................................................136
Recipe for Roast Chickens [and other fowl]................................................................................................137
Hen Roasted in a Pot in the Oven [the bread oven]...................................................................................137
Hen Roasted in a Pot at Home...................................................................................................................137
Chicken Called Madhûna, Greased [roast, spicy].......................................................................................137
Cooked Fried Chicken................................................................................................................................138
The Green Dish Which Umm Hakima Taught [with cilantro]......................................................................138
A Dish of Pullet [with coriander]..................................................................................................................138
Chicken Covered With Walnuts and Saffron..............................................................................................138
Another Dish Covered with Ground Almonds.............................................................................................138
Another Dish, Which Is Covered with Cilantro Juice..................................................................................139
Dish with Pine Nuts.....................................................................................................................................139
Another Dish, Covered with Pistachio........................................................................................................139
Jaldiyya of Chicken [sweet].........................................................................................................................139
Chicken Dish With Wine [or honey, steeped in spiced]..............................................................................139
Another Chicken Dish.................................................................................................................................140
ix
13th Century Al-Andalus Cookbook

Tharîda of Chicken [boiled chicken on bread]............................................................................................140
Mukhallal of Chicken and So Forth [a vinegar dish]...................................................................................140
Preparation of Meatballs from Chicken Breasts.........................................................................................140
Recipe for Zîrbâja [sweet and sour soup, chicken, pigeon, dove, lamb]....................................................140
Recipe for Kâfûriyya, a dish made with Camphor and Lemons [chicken, pidgeon, dove].........................141
Maghmûm, The Veiled [oven roasted] Dish [lemon chicken, pigeon, goose].............................................141
The Making of Mu'affara which is also Called Munashshiya [false chicken]..............................................142
Recipe for Murûziyya [sweet and sour chicken].........................................................................................142
Recipe for Ja'fariyya [gold colored dish].....................................................................................................142
Recipe for Jullâbiyya, a Dish with Julep [candied chicken]........................................................................142
The Making of Rafî', a Fine Dish [chicken and meatballs]..........................................................................143
The Recipe of ibn al-Mahdi's Maghmûm [roast chicken]............................................................................143
Abbasid Chicken [stuffed chicken]..............................................................................................................143
The Preparation of Jaldiyya [Leathery fowl, raison sauce, goose, hen, capon].........................................144
Recipe for Thûmiyya, a Garlicky Dish.........................................................................................................144
A Chicken called Ibrâhîmiyya [sweet and sour saffron chicken].................................................................145
Mahshi, a Stuffed Dish [chicken, pigeon, dove, small birds, lamb].............................................................145
A Chicken Dish [stuffed chicken skin and meat dish].................................................................................145
The Making of Stuffed Chicken [stuffed, roated chicken]...........................................................................146
Recipe for Farrûj Mubarrad, Omelet Chicken [boiled chicken with omlette]...............................................146
A Stuffed Dish of Chicken [Cooked] in the Oven........................................................................................147
Chicken In the Oven [roast chicken]...........................................................................................................147
Recipe for an Extraordinary Chicken Dish [honey chicken with almond stuffing, with meatballs and
sausages]....................................................................................................................................................147
Tharîda of Khabîs [wheat starch] with Two Chickens [in honey]................................................................148
A Hen Roasted in the Oven [simple, garlic and coriander].........................................................................148
Egyptian Chicken........................................................................................................................................148
A Chicken Known as Zukaira [stuffed chicken skin and meat dish]...........................................................149
Recipe for the Chicken Dish known as Sabâhi [of morning].......................................................................149
Recipe for Barmakiyya [calzone or empanada, chicken, pigeons, small birds, lamb]................................149
A Dish Praised in Springtime for Those with Fullness and Those with Burning Blood [chicken, partridge,
quail, veal]...................................................................................................................................................150
Tuffâhiyya, a Dish Made With Apples [lamb, veal, chicken, squab]...........................................................150
Recipe for a Dish of Goose and Stuffing [stuffed skin, chicken, goose].....................................................150
A Jewish Dish of Chicken...........................................................................................................................151
A Jewish Dish of Chicken [with a stuffing]..................................................................................................152
CHAPTER 17: OTHER FOWL DISHES..................................................................................................................153
Tajine with Cheese [small birds, pigeon]....................................................................................................153
Recipe for Kâfûriyya, a dish made with Camphor and Lemons [chicken, pidgeon, dove].........................153
Maghmûm, The Veiled [oven roasted] Dish [lemon chicken, pigeon, goose].............................................153
Stuffed Monkey-Head [layered dish, pigeon]..............................................................................................153
The Making of a Dish of Small Birds [simple dish]......................................................................................154
The Making of a Dish of Pigeons, Doves, or White Starlings [fowl in meatloaf, pigeon, dove, starling]....154
A Dish of Young Pigeons [sweet fowl, pigeon]...........................................................................................155
Recipe for Zîrbâja [sweet and sour soup, chicken, pigeon, dove, lamb]....................................................155
A Preparation of Remarkable Pigeons [Bûjûn, stuffing coverd pigeons]]...................................................155
'Ujja [frittata] of Pigeons..............................................................................................................................156
Recipe for a Dish of Olives [partridge]........................................................................................................156
Recipe for a Dish of Partridge.....................................................................................................................156
Jewish Partridge [stuffed]............................................................................................................................157
A Jewish Dish of Partridge..........................................................................................................................157
Recipe for a Dish of Partridge with Honey [with egg-white coating]...........................................................157
Recipe for a Dish of Pullet or Partridge......................................................................................................158
A Recipe for Roast Partridge......................................................................................................................158
Partridge......................................................................................................................................................158
Another Partridge Dish................................................................................................................................159