Analysis of Twentieth Century Apparel Production Compared to Twenty-First Century Apparel ... PDF
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Analysis Of Twentieth Century Apparel Production Compared To Twenty-First Century Apparel Production by Kelly Baker A THESIS submitted to Oregon State University University Honors College in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Honors Baccalaureate of Science in Apparel Design and Chemistry (Honors Scholar) Presented November 19, 2015 Commencement June 2016 AN ABSTRACT OF THE THESIS OF Kelly Baker for the degree of Honors Baccalaureate of Science in Apparel Design and Chemistry presented on November 19, 2015. Title: Analysis Of Twentieth Century Apparel Production Compared To Twenty-First Century Apparel Production Abstract approved: _____________________________________________________________________ Elaine L. Pedersen Apparel fashion is a daily component of society that transcends generations and cultures. The purpose of my research was to analyze the garment structure and construction of two separate but comparable garments in style, function, and content - one from the 1910s and one from 2015. Using the New Brunswick Artifact Analysis Method, I compared and contrasted a c.1915 armistice blouse to a 2015 dress shirt, focusing on the apparel production processes needed to manufacture each blouse. I determined that the 1910s garment was hand stitched, predominantly made out of a cotton plain weave fabric, and was created during the transition to ready-to-wear apparel in the U.S. In contrast, the 2015 shirt was machine-sewn, made out of a blend of 70% cotton/30% lyocell plain weave fabric, and manufactured in China with more advanced technology and machinery than was available in the 1910s. Comparing the two blouses overall, the transition to twenty-first century production retained much of the basic mechanism machinery used in 1910s apparel production, though it was improved upon; however, many elements that originated with the RTW industry are still retained in 2015, such as the structure, the motivation behind it, and the labor intensiveness. Key Words: Twentieth Century Apparel Production, Twenty-First Century Apparel Production, New Brunswick Artifact Analysis, Material Culture, Armistice Blouse Corresponding e-mail address: [email protected] ©Copyright by Kelly Baker November 19, 2015 All Rights Reserved Analysis Of Twentieth Century Apparel Production Compared To Twenty-First Century Apparel Production by Kelly Baker A THESIS submitted to Oregon State University University Honors College in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Honors Baccalaureate of Science in Apparel Design and Chemistry (Honors Scholar) Presented November 19, 2015 Commencement June 2016 Honors Baccalaureate of Science in Apparel Design and Chemistry project of Kelly Baker presented on November 19, 2015. APPROVED: Elaine L. Pedersen, Mentor, representing College of Business Kathy Mullet, Committee Member, representing College of Business Leslie Davis Burns, Committee Member, representing College of Business Toni Doolen, Dean, University Honors College I understand that my project will become part of the permanent collection of Oregon State University, University Honors College. My signature below authorizes release of my project to any reader upon request. Kelly Baker, Author Table of Contents List of Tables ....................................................................................................................... i List of Figures ..................................................................................................................... ii CHAPTER I – INTRODUCTION .................................................................................. 1 Purpose of the Study ..................................................................................................... 2 Assumptions ................................................................................................................... 2 Definitions ...................................................................................................................... 2 CHAPTER II – REVIEW OF LITERATURE .............................................................. 8 Twentieth Century Apparel ......................................................................................... 8 1910s Women’s Fashions ....................................................................................... 8 1910s Garment Characteristics ................................................................... 9 1910s Garment Textiles, Colors, and Embellishments ............................. 10 Factors Affecting 1910s Fashion .............................................................. 12 Overview of Women’s Fashions Post 1910s ........................................................ 13 Twentieth Century Apparel Production: 1910s ....................................................... 21 RTW vs. Handmade .............................................................................................. 21 Dressmaking ............................................................................................. 21 Transition to RTW .................................................................................... 24 Adoption of RTW ..................................................................................... 28 Manufacturing ........................................................................................... 30 Labor and Organization of Production ..................................................... 31 Influence of RTW ..................................................................................... 34 Twenty-First Century Apparel .................................................................................. 35 2015 Women’s Fashions ....................................................................................... 36 Rising Trends ............................................................................................ 37 Declining Trends ....................................................................................... 37 Textiles and Colors ............................................................................................... 38 Twenty-First Century Apparel Production: 2015 ................................................... 39 RTW Production ................................................................................................... 39 Roles Within the RTW Industry ............................................................... 45 Globalization/Sourcing ......................................................................................... 46 Globalization ............................................................................................. 48 Globally Manufactured T-Shirt Example ................................................. 51 Summary ...................................................................................................................... 54 CHAPTER III – PROCEDURE .................................................................................... 56 Population and Sample ............................................................................................... 56 Selection of Time Period ...................................................................................... 56 Selection of 1910s Garment .................................................................................. 57 Selection of 2015 Garment ................................................................................... 58 Artifact Analysis Method ........................................................................................... 60 1910s Garment ...................................................................................................... 65 2015 Garment ........................................................................................................ 67 CHAPTER IV – FINDINGS .......................................................................................... 71 New Brunswick Artifact Analysis: c. 1915 Armistice Blouse ................................. 72 Observable and Supplementary Data .................................................................... 72 Material ..................................................................................................... 72 Construction .............................................................................................. 75 Function .................................................................................................... 80 Provenance ................................................................................................ 81 Value ......................................................................................................... 82 Everlane’s Cotton Lawn Shirt ................................................................................... 83 Observable and Supplementary Data .................................................................... 83 Material ..................................................................................................... 83 Construction .............................................................................................. 86 Function .................................................................................................... 89 Provenance ................................................................................................ 90 Value ......................................................................................................... 90 Assessment of the c. 1915 Armistice Blouse vs. Everlane’s Cotton Lawn Shirt ... 91 Comparative Data ................................................................................................. 91 Material ..................................................................................................... 91 Construction .............................................................................................. 92 Function .................................................................................................... 92 Provenance ................................................................................................ 92 Value ......................................................................................................... 93 Commonalities and Disparities ............................................................................. 94 Commonalities .......................................................................................... 94 Disparities ................................................................................................. 97 Summary ...................................................................................................................... 99 CHAPTER V – CONCLUSIONS ................................................................................ 102 Conclusions ................................................................................................................ 103 Implications ............................................................................................................... 106 Limitations ................................................................................................................. 111 REFERENCES .............................................................................................................. 114 APPENDICES ............................................................................................................... 121 APPENDIX A ................................................................................................................ 122 Photos of c. 1915 Armistice Blouse .......................................................................... 122 c. 1915 Armistice Blouse POM ................................................................................ 126 Detail POM ................................................................................................................ 128 APPENDIX B ................................................................................................................ 130 Photos of 2015 Everlane Cotton Lawn .................................................................... 130 2015 Everlane Cotton Lawn POM .......................................................................... 133 Detail POM ................................................................................................................ 135 APPENDIX C ................................................................................................................ 137 Comprehensive Responses to the New Brunswick Artifact Analysis Checklist of Questions .................................................................................................................... 137 APPENDIX D ................................................................................................................ 153 FLEUR de LIS Hand-Made Blouse Ads ................................................................. 153 APPENDIX E ................................................................................................................ 157 Similar Extant “Armistice” Blouses ........................................................................ 157 1900-1915 Extant Blouses ......................................................................................... 159
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