A CRITICAL CULTURAL STUDY OF LIVED EXPERIENCES AND SOCIETAL IMPLICATIONS OF

169 Pages·2017·2.6 MB·English

by  Nikkie Perry

Running head: A CRITICAL CULTURAL STUDY OF LIVED EXPERIENCES AND
SOCIETAL IMPLICATIONS OF THE 21ST CENTURY NATURAL HAIR
MOVEMENT

Towson University
Office of Graduate Studies

A Critical Cultural Study of Lived Experiences and Societal Implications
of the 21st Century Natural Hair Movement

by
Kahleeka “Nikkie” Perry
A thesis
Presented to the faculty of
Towson University in partial fulfillmen t
of the requirements for the degree
Master of Science
Department of Mass Communication and Communication Studie s

Towson University
Towson, Maryland 21252

December 2017
CRITICAL CULTURAL STUDY OF THE 21ST CENTURY NATURAL HAIR
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Thesis Approval Page

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Acknowledgements

Completion of this thesis project has truly been a labor of love. I would like to extend my
sincere gratitude to the following individuals for their participation, efforts, and positive
energy.
First, I would like to thank God for giving me the strength, the will, and the mental
capacity needed to complete this assignment. You provided me with the tools necessary
to persevere despite the many challenges and obstacles that I encountered during this
process.
I would like to thank the 13 women who participated in the research study. Thank you for
your candor and vulnerability. I am extremely humbled that you entrusted me with your
deeply personal and, at times, emotional experiences. I hope that your voices are well
represented and that others may find acceptance and comfort through your experiences.
Your contributions made this experience incredibly worthwhile.
I would especially like to thank my entire thesis committee for your direction and
valuable insight. Thank you for challenging me in ways I never thought possible, to
explore meanings beyond the surface , to evoke critical thought, and dynamic
perspectives.
Thank you to my wonderful friends, family, and co-workers. You were my support
system throughout this entire process. You encouraged me when it seemed like I could
not go on. I thank you for your patience, and believing in me, when at times, I did not
believe in myself.
To Mommy, Daddy, and Stacey, I hope I have represented you well… I carry you
everywhere.
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CRITICAL CULTURAL STUDY OF THE 21ST CENTURY NATURAL HAIR
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Abstract

A Critical Cultural Study of Lived Experiences and Societal Implications
of the 21st Century Natural Hair Movement

Kahleeka “Nikkie” Perry

st
The natural hair movement of the 21 century emerged as a declaration by African-
American women to embrace and celebrate their natural hair textures. Through a critical
cultural study, this project demonstrated the divide that exists between the dominant
American culture and the natural hair movement. Three research questions were used to
investigate this phenomenon: (1) how do African-American women negotiate their
understanding of natural hair? (2) how do African-American women feel about their
experiences of natural hair? and (3) how are African-American women influenced by
mass media messages about natural hair? Using a qualitative mixed-methods approach,
eight major themes were revealed: colorism, good vs. bad hair, journey, identity,
microaggression, self-esteem, bonding, and social media usage. Findings showed that
certain societal norms continue to influence how African-American women perceive
natural hair. Suggested topics for future research include perceptions of natural hair based
on generational and geographic/regional differences.
Keywords: African-American women, Black women, Black feminism, culture, identity,
natural hair, oppositional code, perceptions, respectability, society, standards of beauty,
stereotypes.
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Table of Contents
Page
List of Tables vii
List of Appendices viii
Introduction 1
1.1 Research Study Outline 1
1.2 Researcher Statement 3
1.3 A Historical Perspective: The Natural Hair Movement 7
Literature Review & Theoretical Perspectives 13
2.1 Black Feminist Perspectives 14
2.2 Intersectionality 20
2.3 Double-Consciousness 27
2.4 Cultural Studies Theory 30
2.5 Encoding and Decoding Theory 37
2.6 Themes 54
2.7 Research Questions 54
Methods and Materials 57
3.1 Research Design 57
3.2 Procedure 61
3.3 Results/Discussion 68
Implications 98
Limitations 103
Appendices 105
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Table of Contents (cont.)
Page
Bibliography 134
Curriculum Vita 158

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List of Tables

Table Page
1 Participant Demographic Information Chart 61
2 Participant Interview Chart 63
3 Word Frequency Chart – Textual Analysis 65
4 Word Frequency Chart – Personal Interviews 67

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List of Appendices

Appendices Page
A Nikkie Perry Hair Photos 105
B The Politics of Fear Magazine Cover Image 106
C Transatlantic Slave Trade Photo Image 107
D Madame C.J. Walker Product Ad Image 108
E Curly Kit Product Ad Image 109
F Nola Darling Photo Image 110
G Nancy Lee Grahn Tweet Image 111
H U.S. Army Female Unauthorized Hairstyles Images 112
I Andre Walker Hair Typing System Image 113
J Crème of Nature Product Ad Image 114
K Cantu Product Ad Image 115
L SheaMoisture Facebook Apology Image 116
M Good Hair Movie Poster Image 117
N Arta Product Ad Image 118
O Kodak Camera Product Ad Image 119
P Super Curl Product Ad Image 120
Q Textual Analysis Instructions/Questions 121
R Personal Interview Questions 122
S Natural Hair Registration Form 124
T Facebook Study Recruitment Post 125

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List of Appendices (cont.)

Appendices Page
U Study Recruitment Flyer 126
V Codebook 127
W IRB Approval Letter 132
X Informed Consent Form Sample 133

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Introduction
Research Study Outline
This study begins with a brief historical perspective about the history of natural,
Afro-textured hair. The historical perspective provides readers with background
information as to how natural, Afro-textured hair has been perceived in both mainstream
society and within Black culture over the last four hundred years through evidence of
depictions and images circulated from historical archives and in mass media, most
notably in television, film and advertising.
The study examined multiple theoretical frameworks. Initially, the author uses
Black feminist perspectives, intersectionality, double consciousness, cultural studies and
encoding/decoding theories to examine the data. Next, the researcher highlighted the
complex and, sometimes, controversial relationship that exists between the natural hair
movement of the 21st century, the African-American/Black female experience and use of
new forms of media and technology within the larger American society. Lastly, the
theoretical frameworks served as the foundation from which the research questions were
developed and were later answered through examination and analysis.
The researcher then moved on to predict that several patterns and themes would
emerge from the conducted personal interviews based on the responses and lived
experiences of study participants. Next, the study identified three research questions to
serve as the basis for investigation. The qualitative method of textual analysis and
personal interviews were used to answer the research questions as part of the results and
discussion sections.
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