The Grapevine from the science to the practice of growing vines for wine Patrick iland Peter dry tony Proffitt Steve tyerman © Patrick Iland Wine Promotions 2017 The Grapevine from the science to the practice of growing vines for wine i © Patrick Iland Wine Promotions 2017 First published in 2011 It is important that users of this book consider the ‘information’ Publisher carefully and use the ‘information’ in a way that is relevant to Patrick Iland Wine Promotions Pty Ltd their particular situation. PO Box 131, Campbelltown Adelaide, South Australia, Australia 5074 Acknowledgements Telephone: 0412090411 The figures and diagrams in the book are either redrawn or are +61 412090411 original works by Graeme Lavis. 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The Australian promotional material — The Australian Society of Viticulture Copyright Act 1968 (the Act) allows a maximum of one chapter and Oenology, The Grape and Wine Research and Development or 10% of this book, whichever is the greater, to be photocopied Corporation, Australia, The Australian Wine Research Institute by any educational institution for its educational purposes and The Australian Wine Industry Technical Conference Inc. provided that the educational institution (or body that administers it) has given a remuneration notice to Copyright We thank the staff of The Australian Wine Research Institute Agency Ltd (CAL) under the Act. Library for valuable assistance with sourcing literature material. National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication entry: Books by the same authors Iland, Patrick Viticulture Volume 1 Resources in Australia. (1988) B.G. Coombe Dry, Peter and P.R. Dry (Eds). (Australian Industrial Publishers: Adelaide, Proffitt, Tony Australia). Tyerman, Steve The Grapevine: from the science to the practice Viticulture Volume 2 Practices. (1992) B.G. Coombe and P.R. Dry of growing vines for wine (Eds) (Winetitles:Adelaide, Australia). Includes index Italian Winegrape Varieties in Australia - exploring the potential E-Version book ISBN:978-0-9946356-0-0 of Barbera, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Print version book ISBN: 978-0-9581605-5-1 Dolcetto and Arneis. (1999) A.D. McKay, G.J. Crittenden, P.R. Dry and W.J. Hardie (Winetitles:Adelaide, Australia). 1. Grapevines, 2. Grapes, 3. Viticulture, 4. Wine, 5. Title Chemical analysis of grapes and wine: techniques and concepts. Project co-ordinator: Judith Iland (2004) P. Iland, N. Bruer, G. Edwards, S. Weeks and E. Wilkes Designer and page layout: Judith Iland (Patrick Iland Wine Promotions:Adelaide, Australia). Photography: Patrick Iland Wine Promotions (except where indicated) Monitoring the winemaking process from grapes to wine: Text Editor: Margaret Cargill, SciWriting: Communicating techniques and concepts. (2004) P. Iland, N. Bruer, A. Ewart, Science Effectively in English, Adelaide. A. Markides and J. Sitters (Patrick Iland Wine Promotions: Printer: T K Print, Adelaide, Australia. Adelaide, Australia. Cover design: Graeme Lavis; photographs: (front) Mark Bottger and (back) Mardi Longbottom and Steve Tyerman Viticulture Volume 1 Resources, 2nd edition. (2004) P.R. Dry and Graphic designer: Graeme Lavis, Down South Design. B.G. Coombe (Eds) (Winetitles:Adelaide, Australia). Disclaimer Precision Viticulture – a new era in vineyard management and The information given in this publication is as accurate as wine production. (2006) T. Proffitt, R. Bramley, D. Lamb and possible at the time of printing. Patrick Iland Wine Promotions E. Winter (Winetitles:Adelaide, Australia). Pty Ltd makes no warranty, representation or guarantee that the information in this book is error free or that the information may Microbiological analysis of grapes and wine: techniques and be relied upon for any reason. Whilst every attempt has been concepts. (2007) P. Iland, P. Grbin, M. Grinberg, L. Schmidtke and made to exclude errors the publishers shall have no liability for: A. Soden in conjunction with the Interwinery Analysis Group. 1. Any decisions or action taken as a result of the ‘information’ (Patrick Iland Wine Promotions:Adelaide, Australia). provided therein. 2. Any omissions or inaccuracies in the ‘information’ or its A Taste of the World of Wine. (2009) P.G. Iland, P. Gago, interpretation. A. Caillard and P.R. Dry (Patrick Iland Wine Promotions: 3. Any loss of injury suffered by any person caused by the Adelaide, Australia). interpretation of use (either directly or indirectly) of the ‘information’. ii © Patrick Iland Wine Promotions 2017 Authors Patrick Iland OAM Peter Dry Dr Patrick Iland (BAppSc, Dr Peter Dry (BAgSc, MAgSc, MAgSc, PhD) has been PhD) has been a viticultural involved in wine education scientist for 40 years. He for over 35 years. He is a started his career in the SA former Senior Lecturer at The Department of Agriculture in University of Adelaide, 1970. His academic career Australia. Patrick has taught commenced at Roseworthy and researched in the areas of Agricultural College in 1975 wine chemistry, viticulture and continued at The and sensory evaluation. His University of Adelaide from research focused on the effects of viticultural practices on 1990. He retired from the University as Associate grape and wine quality and wine sensory properties. He, Professor in 2008. Since that time, he has been a part-time along with colleagues, developed the ‘berry colour’ viticulture consultant at the Australian Wine Research measure — a measure widely used in the viticulture Institute, where he has been able to continue his passion industry for determining the colour of black grapes. for the transfer of scientific and technical knowledge to Although retired, he retains his connection with the the grape and wine industry. University as a Visiting Research Fellow. Although his research has been wide-ranging, he is He is a past winner of the Stephen Hickinbotham perhaps best known for the development of the partial Memorial Trust Award (for his research on Pinot Noir rootzone drying (PRD) irrigation strategy—in 2001, this grapes and wines) and the Stephen Cole the Elder Award was named as one of the 100 most-important for Excellence in Teaching awarded by The University of technological innovations of the 20th century in Australia Adelaide. In 2007 he was awarded the Order of Australia by the Australian Academy of Technological Sciences and (OAM) for his services to the Australian wine industry. Engineering. This strategy evolved from initial research Patrick has a strong interest in and commitment to on the water stress physiology of the grapevine. He is the education. He and his wife Judith conduct a publishing author of many scientific and popular publications on business specialising in educational wine books. viticulture and wine. This is his sixth book as a co-author. Tony Proffitt Steve Tyerman Dr Tony Proffitt (BSc, MSc, Professor Stephen Tyerman PhD, Post-graduate Dip. in (BSc Hons, PhD, FAA) is a Viticulture) commenced his leading scientist in the field career in agricultural science of plant physiology. He was during the 1980s. He has elected as a Fellow of the worked in the technical, Australian Academy of consultancy, extension and Science in 2003. He has won educational sectors of the many awards for his Australian wine industry research, including, in 2007, since 1995. He spent five the prestigious Australian years with Southcorp Wines (now known as Treasury Research Council Professorial Fellowship. He has Wine Estates) and then joined AHA Viticulture, a researched nutrition, salinity and water relations in vineyard management and consultancy company based plants for some 25 years and published in journals such in the Margaret River region, Western Australia. Tony as Nature, Science and the Proceedings of the National continues to work as a consultant viticulturist. Academy of Sciences. He is best known for his work using and promoting the In 2001 Steve was appointed to the Wine Industry Chair Precision Viticulture suite of tools for vineyard of Viticulture at The University of Adelaide. Since then management. In 2006 he co-authored the book entitled he has led research on vine and berry water relations and ‘Precision Viticulture – a new era in vineyard vine drought tolerance. He teaches in all levels of management and wine production’. viticulture education in the School of Agriculture, Food and Wine at The University of Adelaide. Tony has a strong interest in education, having been employed as a lecturer in viticulture at Curtin University, Climate change impacts and adaptation in viticulture are Western Australia. He is the author of many scientific drivers for his research, and he is currently the papers and industry articles which have been published programme leader in Water for Primary Industries in a range of peer-reviewed and popular viticultural, Research Network within the National Climate Change agricultural and soil science journals. Adaptation Research Facility. iii © Patrick Iland Wine Promotions 2017 Contents 1 THE GRAPEVINE 5 BUD DORMANCY 1.1 Introduction 1 5.1 Introduction 76 1.2 Taxonomic classification 1-2 5.2 The phases of dormancy 76-77 1.3 Wild vines 2 5.3 The course of dormancy 77-78 1.4 Domestication of the vine 2-4 5.4 Shoot trimming experiments 78 1.5 Spread of vines around the world 4 5.5 Chilling requirement for breaking 1.6 The first/early wines 4-6 of dormancy 78-80 1.7 Modern wines 6 5.6 Control of dormancy 80 1.8 Breeding programmes 6 5.7 Long term bud dormancy 80 1.9 Adaptive and survival mechanisms 7-10 5.8 Practical applications 80-82 1.10 Describing the development of the Chapter summary 82 grape berry 10-11 1.11 The grapevine in the future 11 Chapter summary 11 6 FLOWERING AND FRUITSET 6.1 Flowering 83-84 6.2 Pollination 84 2 GRAPEVINE STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION 6.3 Fertilisation 84 2.1 Introduction 13 6.4 Fruitset 85 2.2 Nomenclature of the shoot and bud 14 6.5 Types of fruitset 85-86 2.3 The shoot of the current season 15-27 6.6 Regulation of fruitset 86 2.4 Trunk and arms 28 6.7 Types of berries in a bunch 2.5 Roots 29-31 of a seeded variety 86 Chapter summary 31 6.8 ‘Normal’ and ‘Poor Fruitset’ 87 6.9 Quantification of reproductive performance 87-88 6.10 Factors affecting flowering/fruitset 88 3 GRAPEVINE GROWTH 6.11 Practices to improve fruitset 88-89 3.1 Vegetative and reproductive Chapter summary 89 growth cycles 33-35 3.2 Budburst 36-40 3.3 Shoot growth 40-43 7 PHOTOSYNTHESIS 3.4 Leaves 44 7.1 Photosynthesis, photorespiration 3.5 Tendrils 44 and respiration 91-93 3.6 Berry development 44-48 7.2 Measurement of leaf 3.7 Trunk and arms 49 photosynthetic activity 93-94 3.8 Roots 49-52 7.3 Factors affecting leaf photosynthesis 94-106 3.9 Biomass partitioning 52 7.4 Whole-vine photosynthesis 106-107 3.10 Phenology 52-54 Chapter summary 107 3.11 Estimating vineyard yield 55-57 3.12 Forecasting vineyard yield 58 Chapter summary 59 8 BERRY COMPOSITION 8.1 Introduction 110 8.2 Content and concentration 111-112 4 DEVELOPMENT OF INFLORESCENCE PRIMORDIA 8.3 Water 113 4.1 Introduction 63 8.4 Carbohydrates 114-119 4.2 The process of inflorescence 8.5 Organic acids 120-131 primordium development 63-66 8.6 Phenolic compounds 132-141 4.3 Hormonal regulation of inflorescence 8.7 Volatile aroma compounds 142-149 primordium initiation and development 66-67 8.8 Inorganic cations and anions 150-151 4.4 Environmental factors affecting inflorescence 8.9 Nitrogen compounds 151-152 primordium initiation and development 67-69 8.10 General discussion 152 4.5 Non-environmental factors affecting Chapter summary 153 initiation and development of inflorescence primordia 69-70 4.6 Some practical notes 70-71 9 MOLECULAR BIOLOGY 4.7 Methods for determining ‘potential 9.1 Introduction 162 bunches’ in buds 71-73 9.2 Genes 162 Chapter summary 73 9.3 Applications to viticulture 162-165 9.4 Plant genomics 165 Chapter summary 165 iv © Patrick Iland Wine Promotions 2017 Contents 10 VINES, GRAPES AND WINES 12 CLIMATE AND THE VINE 10.1 Wine style and quality 167 12.1 Introduction 233 10.2 Grape ripeness 167-168 12.2 Macroclimate — differences 10.3 Grape quality 168 between regions 233-235 10.4 Achieving specifications 168 12.3 Mesoclimate — differences between 10.5 Matching vines, grapes and wines 168 sites within a region 235-236 10.6 Predictors of grape and wine 12.4 Microclimate — differences within style/quality 168-174 canopies 236-239 10.7 A protocol for matching vines, 12.5 Case studies 239-247 grapes and wines 175-177 12.6 Canopy management 247 Chapter summary 177 12.7 Leaf removal in the bunch zone 248-252 Vineyard Assessment Sheet 178 12.8 Shoot thinning/removal 252 Describing grapevine canopies 12.9 Training systems 252 and berry sensory attributes 179-182 12.10 Severe weather conditions 253-254 12.11 Temperature conditions during 11 WATER, SOIL AND THE VINE berry ripening 254-256 11A Water, soil and the vine — at the vine level Chapter summary 256-257 11A.1 Water movement throughout the vine 184 11A.2 Water potential 184-186 11A.3 Water movement into and out of leaves 186-190 13 SOURCES AND SINKS 11A.4 The role of stomates in water movement 190-195 13.1 Transport of compounds throughout 11A.5 Properties of the xylem 195-197 the vine 262 11A.6 Varietal differences 197-198 13.2 Translocation 262-264 11A.7 Water movement into and 13.3 Concepts and practices 265-277 out of berries 199-200 Chapter summary 278 11B Water, soil and the vine — at the vineyard level 11B.1 Introduction 201 14 THE VINE AND ITS ENVIRONMENT 11B.2 Evapotranspiration 201 14.1 Introduction 282 11B.3 When does the vine require water? 202 14.2 Climate change 282-285 11B.4 Soil water (moisture) content 202-203 14.3 Terroir 285-288 11B.5 The concept of ‘vine water stress’ 203 14.4 Precision Viticulture (PV) 288-292 11B.6 Irrigation scheduling 203-206 14.5 Organic and biodynamic viticulture 292-293 11B.7 Irrigation studies 207-212 14.6 The vine and its neighbours 294 11B.8 Limiting water availability to 14.7 Material other than grapes (MOG) 295 vine roots 213-214 14.8 Vine diseases 295 11B.9 Conserving water 215 Chapter summary 296 11B.10 Soil salinity 216-217 11B.11 Soil health 217-218 11B.12 Nutrition 218-221 15 PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER 11B.13 Rootstocks 221 15.1 Putting it all together 300-301 11C Water use efficiency 11C.1 Physiological water use efficiency 222 INDEX 302-310 11C.2 Economic water use efficiency 222 11C.3 Components of the ‘vine water use’ equation 222-223 Chapter summary 224-225 In the text the symbol ? indicates a question and the symbol a practical consideration. v © Patrick Iland Wine Promotions 2017 Preface The Grapevine from the science to the practice of growing vines for wine The objective of this book is to provide a link between scientific principles and the practice of viticulture. It is concerned with providing knowledge, asking questions and stimulating thought and discussion about the growing of grapes for the making of wine. ‘The Grapevine: from the science to the practice of growing vines for wine’ aims to promote sound and creative thinking, to stimulate the reader to seek more knowledge and to imagine what it means. It is primarily intended to be a text for undergraduate and postgraduate students. However, it will also be of great interest to anyone involved in grape and wine production because it covers the basic principles of the molecular, physiological, biochemical and practical aspects of growing vines for wine. Our aim is to link principles with practical applications and outcomes. Extensive literature reviews provide a snapshot of current knowledge. New developments, in both research and practice, are discussed. Many diagrams and photographs are included. The material is based on research studies, field trials and the opinions of the authors and industry personnel. We include this mix of knowledge as we believe that it promotes consideration of the most useful ways to link science and practice. We encourage readers to refer to the original papers (and references therein) to gain a sound understanding of the topics of interest to them. The criterion for selection of the case studies was that each study should provide an example of an application of knowledge that links some aspect of vine growth or berry composition with wine composition or wine sensory properties. Many factors — including climatic conditions, soil properties and management practices — influence grapevine growth and function. As a consequence, general principles should be evaluated with a regional or site focus. We call this approach ‘thinking about the sense of place of a piece of knowledge’. We acknowledge the many scientists, technical personnel and students who have studied the vine in order to investigate its molecular, physiological and biochemical functions and the connection of its grapes with a wine. ‘The Grapevine: from the science to the practice of growing vines for wine’ represents a selection of their work. Be conscious of the past, thoughtful of the present and imaginative for the future. We dedicate this book to Dr Bryan Coombe (AM, MAgSc, PhD), former Reader in Horticultural Science, The University of Adelaide and one of the world’s leading viticultural scientists. His research focused on the growth and development of the grapevine, especially the grape berry. His work has been an inspiration to many viticultural scientists world-wide, including the authors of this book. vi © Patrick Iland Wine Promotions 2017 1. The grapevine 1.1 INTRODUCTION The genus Vitis is distinguished from most of the other Studies of fossilised leaves suggest that ancestors of the genera of the Vitaceae family by having petals which grapevine were present during the Jurassic period, 181 remain joined at the top and detach from the base to fall million years ago (Thomas and van Heeswijck 2004). At together as a ‘calyptra’ or ‘cap’ (Thomas and van that time dinosaurs roamed the land. Much has changed Heeswijck 2004). since then. Humans now dominate the earth, and in many The 14 genera contain about 700 species worldwide, countries around the world people cultivate the vine and although Thomas and van Heeswijck (2004) suggest that use its fruit to make an alcoholic drink called wine. this is a conservative estimate. There are up to 70 species in the genus Vitis, including Vitis vinifera (the wine 1.2 TAXONOMIC CLASSIFICATION grape), Vitis labrusca, Vitis aestivalis, Vitis riparia, Vitis Scientists classify plants and animals into groupings rupestris, Vitis cinerea and Vitis champinii. More strictly according to the similarities of their characteristics. The ‘speaking’ they are ecospecies, since there are no genetic system for the grapevine is shown in Figure 1.1. barriers within the genus and the species are inter-fertile. The grapevine belongs to the order of Rhamnales. Each species represents the outcome of adaption to There are three families in the order of Rhamnales — specific environmental conditions. Vitaceae, Rhamnaceae and Leeaceae. Vitaceae are The system for naming a species is to name the genus characterised by the presence of tendrils and first, followed by the name of the species, e.g. Vitis inflorescences opposed to the leaves. vinifera. This is often shortened to V. vinifera. When There are up to 14 genera in the Vitaceae family accuracy is required, it is written as Vitis vinifera L., (depending on which classification is used). The genera where the letter refers to the name of the person after include Vitis, Cissus (the largest) and Muscadinia. whom the species is named. In this case the L. refers to the botanist Linnaeus, who first studied the vinifera The grapevine belongs to the order of Rhamnales species in 1735 (Robinson 2006). and the family Vitaceae. The majority of the varieties used for fruit, juice or wine derive from wild forms. The word cultivar or cultivated variety is used when the variety has been domesticated by humans. In this book we use the term ‘variety’ when referring to the cultivated varieties used THE GRAPEVINE FAMILY TREE in modern viticulture. ORDER Rhamnales FAMILY Vitaceae Rhamnaceae Leeaceae GENUS Vitis Cissus Muscadinia There are up to 70 species in the genus Vitis. SPECIES Vitis vinifera Vitis labrusca Vitis riparia Vitis rupestris VARIETY/CULTIVAR Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Grigio Cabernet Sauvignon There are thousands of different varieties in the 777 MV6 CLONES species Vitis vinifera. Figure 1.1 The botanical classification of the grapevine showing some examples of species, varieties and clones. 1 © Patrick Iland Wine Promotions 2017 The grapevine Most of the world’s wine 1.3 WILD VINES is made from grapes The progenitors of Vitis vinifera are thought to have been of the species Vitis vinifera. a bushy form that grew in open habitats. They had small bunches with small red or purple/black coloured berries. More than 800 varieties of Vitis vinifera are regularly Wild vines grew in many countries. Some regions were used to make wine. Amongst the best known varieties are named because of the wild vines growing there, e.g. the Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Grenache, Chardonnay and first Greek settlers in southern Italy called this area Riesling. These varieties, plus some others, are grown in Oenotria — the land of (staked) vines — and when the many countries around the world and are often referred Viking adventurers visited the east coast of North to as ‘international’ varieties. Some grapevines are less America they called the area Vineland. known outside their homeland and exist in local regions, When a berry, with a mature seed inside, fell to the e.g. Viognier in the Rhône, France; Fiano in Campania, ground, under favourable conditions the seed would Italy; Grüner Veltliner in the Wachau and Kamptal germinate and grow into a seedling. Grapevines do not regions of Austria; Tempranillo in Spain; and Saperavi in breed true from seeds and therefore when seedlings Georgia. They are often referred to as ‘traditional’ or grow, sometimes the new vine is similar to the parent ‘local’ varieties. Recently, wine consumers around the vine, but more often it is distinctly different, so much so world have shown an interest in the wines of traditional that a new variety is formed. In the wild, new varieties varieties and many are now being planted outside their would have arisen as a result of chance crossings (see homeland. With time these will join the ranks of the so- below). Over time, many new varieties evolved. In called ‘international’ group — some, it could be argued, modern viticulture, because of the unpredictability of the have already reached this status. types of vines that result from cross-pollination and For many years all species grew on the same continent, germination of seedlings, grapevines are not normally but the breaking of the intercontinental bridge, about 60 propagated in this way. To obtain a vine that is identical million years ago, and the formation of the Eurasian and to the mother vine the vine must be propagated American continents, gave rise to the evolution of two vegetatively, e.g. a section of a shoot (a cutting) is taken, distinct races of Vitis. Only one species, Vitis vinifera, grown in a nursery to develop roots and then planted in evolved in Eurasia, in the area known today as the the vineyard. Middle East. Several species, including Vitis labrusca, Vitis riparia and Vitis rupestris, evolved in North 1.4 DOMESTICATION OF THE VINE America. It is thought that the cultivation of the grapevine began Varieties are further divided into clones. Clones are during the Neolithic period (7000 to 5000 BC) in the sub-types within a variety. If, over time, a mutation region of Asia Minor between the Black and Caspian occurs in the cell of a bud on a shoot on a vine, and this Seas. Prehistoric people would have gathered berries shoot is taken as a cutting for planting in a new vineyard, from wild vines in the forests. At some time or other they the vine that arises from that cutting will be slightly would have established permanent villages and planted a different to all the other vines. A new clone of that collection of wild vines close to their villages to make it variety has been formed. Varieties which have been more convenient to collect the berries. These plantings cultivated for many years are likely to have more clones formed the first vineyards. Vineyards are now found in than those cultivated for less time, because there has most countries around the world. been a greater opportunity for mutations to occur in the In the wild, all species of Vitis are normally dioecious, vineyards of the older varieties. Pinot Noir, Shiraz/Syrah i.e. they have separate male and female plants. The vines and Riesling are varieties with many clones. Within a with flowers with only male parts cannot bear fruit. The variety some clones are more favoured than others as vines with flowers with only female parts can only bear they are regarded as being more suitable for the fruit if the female flower is fertilised by pollen from a production of quality wines with distinctive characters, nearby male vine. Chance cross-fertilisations would have e.g. clone 777 is one of the favoured Pinot Noir clones in occurred from time to time (giving rise to new varieties). Burgundy and elsewhere around the world. There were, however, some vines which had perfect The traditional scheme of classification places varieties flowers (hermaphrodites — where female and male parts into groups (proles), based on the similarities of vine exist on the same flower) and these vines were able to characteristics found in particular regions. There are bear fruit without any interaction with a nearby vine. It three proles. Proles pontica comprises varieties found in is likely that these were the types of vines that the the countries around the Aegean and Black Seas, Proles Neolithic people selected to plant near their villages, as occidentalis are those found in Western Europe and Proles these vines would have been more reliable in producing orientalis are those found in the Middle East, Iran, fruit than other vines. Afghanistan and nearby areas. Today, genetic studies are used to determine groupings, e.g. Aradhya et al. (2003) Figure 1.2 (Opposite page) Vines in the La Chapelle vineyard of Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Hermitage, France. The wine from the vineyard is named analysed the genetic diversity of 222 cultivated (Vitis after the small chapel at the summit of the hill. It was built in 1235 by a vinifera) and 22 wild (V. vinifera spp. sylvestris) grape knight, Chevalier Gaspard de Stérimberg. The knight had been wounded in 1224 during the Albigeois’ crusade, and sought permission from Queen accessions — multivariant relationships revealed 16 Blanche de Castille to establish a hermitage on this slope. The site is genetic groups structured into three clusters. planted exclusively to Syrah. The site and its wine ‘La Chapelle’ provide a memory of the knight (photograph P.G. Iland). 2 © Patrick Iland Wine Promotions 2017 The grapevine 3 © Patrick Iland Wine Promotions 2017