How to use, adapt, and design sewing patterns

144 Pages·2010·32 MB·english

by  Hollahan

H
Making clothes is fun, fashionable, and thrifty— O
L
L
but how can you fi nd a pattern that fi ts you just A
H
right? And how can you adjust it if it doesn’t? A
N
This book shows you how to get the most from
sewing patterns—from choosing the right size
H
to understanding all the different markings and o
w
translating fl at shapes into wearable garments.
t
o
You will learn how to change the shaping,

U
length, and detailing to suit your own body s
e
shape, taste, and style. ,

A
d
Once you understand how to adapt a store-bought a
p
pattern you are well on your way to designing
t
,

your own clothes. You’ll understand how to a
n
make a new pattern out of a ready-made store- d

D
bought one, or draft your own from scratch.
e
s
The techniques in this book can be used with ig
n
patterns of all shapes, sizes, and styles, and
S
e
by dressmakers of all skill levels.
w
i
n
from store-
Lee Hollahan is a lecturer at the University of the West of England teaching g
pattern cutting in fashion and fashion textiles. After graduating from Brooks
P bought patterns
College, Lee went to work in Southern California for swimsuit and sportswear a
manufacturers before moving to Europe. Once in England, she worked for a t to drafting your own:
t
number of retail labels in London while running her own freelance companies e
making costumes for TV, fi lm, and stage. r a complete guide
n
s to fashion sewing
with confi dence
LEE HOLLAHAN
UUSSPP BBaarrrroonnss ccoovv CCOORRRR22__..iinndddd 11 3rd Proof Title: USP-How to use Adapt and design sewing patterns Barrons edn : 27994 1111//2200//0099 33::2299::0066 PPMM
Job No: CPJ1109-054/4028 Q175
Job No: CPJ1109-37 / 4255 US Text
2nd Proof Title: USP How To Use, Adapt & Design Sewing Patterns : 27994 Q175
How to
Use,
Adapt,
and
Design
Sewing
Patterns
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How to
Use,
Adapt,
and
Design
Sewing
Patterns
Lee Hollahan
UUSSPP 000011--000077 ccoorrrreeccttiioonnss__..iinn dddd 33 JJoobb NNoo:: CCPPJJ11110099--3377 // 44225555 US Text 1111//1177//0099 1122::5511::1144 PPMM
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A QUARTO BOOK
First edition for the United States, its territories and
dependencies, and Canada published in 2010 by
Barron’s Educational Series, Inc.
Copyright © 2010 by Quarto Inc.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means
without the written permission of the copyright owner.
All inquiries should be addressed to:
Barron’s Educational Series, Inc.
250 Wireless Boulevard
Hauppauge, NY 11788
www.barronseduc.com
ISBN-13: 978-0-7641-4425-7
ISBN-10: 0-7641-4425-1
Library of Congress Control Number: 2009938892
QUAR.USP
Conceived, designed, and produced by:
Quarto Publishing plc
The Old Brewery
6 Blundell Street
London N7 9BH
Senior editor: Lindsay Kaubi
Additional text: Sandra Wilson
Copy editor: Liz Dalby
Art editor and designer: Susi Martin
Art director: Caroline Guest
Design assistant: Saffron Stocker
Photographer: Philip Wilkins
Illustrator: Sha Tahmasebi, Chris Taylor, Katie Buglass
Picture researcher: Sarah Bell
Creative director: Moira Clinch
Publisher: Paul Carslake
Color separation in Singapore by PICA Digital Pte Ltd
Printed in Singapore by Star Standard Industries (PTE) Ltd
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
About this book 6 Chapter 4: Designing your
own patterns 63
Creating your own pattern 64
Chapter 1: Tools and materials 9
Using pattern blocks 66
Essential equipment 10
Making and fitting a toile 68
Choosing fabrics 14
Advanced pattern alterations 72
Chapter 2: All about Designing patterns 80
commercial patterns 19
Simple dart manipulation 84
Why use a commercial pattern? 20
Styling sleeves and cuffs 88
How to measure accurately 22
Styling skirts 93
Buying a commercial pattern 26
Styling dresses 96
Understanding your pattern 28
Collar styles 100
Preparing a commercial pattern 30
Facings and waistbands 105
Preparing your fabric 34
Pocket styles 108
Pinning, marking, and cutting out 42
Chapter 5: The pattern blocks 111
Chapter 3: Altering a pattern 47
US SIZE 6 pattern blocks 112
Simple alterations for
US SIZE 8 pattern blocks 114
commercial patterns 48
US SIZE 10 pattern blocks 116
Simple bodice alterations 50
US SIZE 12 pattern blocks 118
Simple sleeve alterations 56
US SIZE 14 pattern blocks 120
Simple skirt alterations 57
US SIZE 16 pattern blocks 122
Simple dress alterations 60
US SIZE 18 pattern blocks 124
Simple pants alterations 61
Chapter 6: Core sewing techniques 127
Glossary 140
Index 142
Credits 144
UUSSPP 000011--000077 ccoorrrreeccttiioonnss__..iinn dddd 55 JJoobb NNoo:: CCPPJJ11110099--3377 // 44225555 US Text 1111//1177//0099 1122::5511::2233 PPMM
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6
About this book
14 Tools and materials Choosing fabrics 15
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and adapting commercial sewing Upisnes wwehiegnh tcsu itntsintgea dde onifm . Ccesehnoaesnmucsrkiseds e atohrn fedt hgs eeoin pgsmethranaiptimncegh,s s aa.antn dd Mdoicerso nfiboet rc ldinragp oers c wreealls, ea.nd Tvrineah frtelyeh cecdt osesl aopomren noe dift d,idn siurgoep coicotnuino th n sao.ilwllk p cliigeachnet s
patterns to suit your body, and then
moves on to explain how to create UUSSPP 000088--001177 ccoorrrreeccttiioonnss__..iinndddd 1144 1111//1166//0099 66::4337::2544 PPMM UUSSPP 000088--001177 ccoorrrreeccttiioonnss__..iinndddd 1155 1111//2244//0099 1122::3216::0563 PPMM
Tools and materials (pages 9–17)
your own patterns using the pattern
Here you’ll find a useful guide to the essential pattern
blocks provided in chapter 5. cutter’s tools and materials and the different types of thread
available. There is also a directory of fabric types, with
comprehensive information on fabric qualities and uses.
Use
22 All about commercial patterns How to measure accurately 23
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10 CB shoulder to waist 161⁄2in (42cm)
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15 CB waist to floor 41in (104cm)
16 Upper arm 131⁄2in (34cm)
17 Arm length 221⁄4in (56.5cm)
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60 Altering a pattern Simple dress alterations(cid:129) Simple pants alterations 61
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amount front and back.
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need to make some alterations
in order to get the perfect fit. In DressL eSbnhegofotrhrteee nnaeeltdde rddarrteeiossnss 2 Draw a pencil line.
this chapter, you’ll learn how to
make the most commonly used
alterations to commercial
patterns in order to improve 2dr eMsesa bsyu.re the amount to shorten the 3 Draw a parallel pencil line. 4am Mouanket, aa ncdre saesceu, rfeo lidt wdiothw nta tphee. required gwo3rn iatA heinl iigtt ahlninpe eterh ,.s eCTid roFiem,t .ho eorr fC fp Btah,te tae enrnxd c pseiesecscu eprsea tptohe ert hme Pants made shorter Pants made longer
the fit of your garments.
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A b o u t t h i s b o o k 7
80 Designing your own patterns Designing patterns 81
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Padding out a dress form to your own size
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using the pattern blocks provided with the book,
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111166 The pattern blocks US SIZE 10 pattern blocks 111177
A 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 --8 BFraocnkt 9 bb ooddiiccee10 --11 BFraocnkt1 2ss kkiirrtt13 -14 Sleev15e 16 1Up7 aSt tSeI18Zr nE b10l1o9 cks20 Sscea2e1l ep augpe 2t h26 e6 pfoart2 t3ien rsnt rbulc2o4tci oknss. o25n how2 6t o 27 28 29 30 31 A
The pattern blocks B B
(pages 111–125) C Grain line (cid:129) 8in (20cm) C
Ipna tthteisrn s ebcloticokns yfoour ’all fsinkidrt ,b asic DE S1 csaqluea: r1e s iqnuchare = Fold line DE Tlahide obulot cokns aa rger id
F F with squares that
bodice, and sleeves in U.S. G G represent 1in
sizes 6–18 (U.K. 8–20). Scale H Grain line H (2.5cm), so that
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in the previous chapter to P Grain line (cid:129) 8in (20cm) P
design your own patterns. Q Q
R R
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
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The different pattern pieces are color
The numbered grid helps you to keep
coded, so that it’s easy for you to
track of where you are when transferring
scale up the specific piece you need.
your design to pattern paper.
128 Core sewing techniques Core sewing techniques 129
Core sewing Plain seam Flat-fell seam
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