Basics Fashion Design: Fashion Drawing

178 Pages·2009·24.6 MB·English

by  John Hopkins

SIF AVABK5 Cover FD 17.08 ED_ 8/28/09 12:52 PM Page 1
BASICS BASICS
Publisher’s note
FASHION DESIGN FASHION DESIGN
John Hopkins
05 05
Ethical practice is well known, taught Featured topics The Basics Fashion Designseries JB John Hopkinsis Head of Fashion and
and discussed in the domains of a brief history from AVA Publishing’s Academia ohas Textiles at Winchester School of Art,
medicine, law, science and sociology athrte sfuasphpiloiens s aknedtc mhaterials imprint comprises a collection of n Hoics F FASHION University of Southampton, in the UK.
but was, until recently, rarely working drawings titles that, together, cover the key pa He studied fashion at Central Saint
discussed in the terms of the Applied sketchbooks elements of fashion design: kinsh Martins College of Art and Design,
fashion proportions sio
Visual Arts. Yet design is becoming drawing from life Research and Design, Textiles and n London, before graduating with a
an increasingly integral part of creating poses Fashion, Construction, Developing D DRAWING masters degree in fashion design.
e
our everyday lives and its influence heads, faces and hair a Collection, Fashion Drawingand s Soon after graduating fromSaint
hands, legs and feet ig
on our society ever-more prevalent. Knitwear. The series provides an n Martins he gained extensive
drawing men 0
understanding garments essential introduction to the subject 5 professional experience as a
AVA Publishing believes that our
fashion flats and forms a comprehensive womenswear designer with Jaeger
world needs integrity; that the technical specifications
reference tool for students and and Burberry, where he worked for
ramifications of our actions upon vector graphics and bitmaps
fashion software anyone interested in the art of over ten years, as well as working as
others should be for the greatest
collage and mixed media fashion design. n v a freelance illustrator for the Fashion
happiness and benefit of the greatest digital colouring
a popular or the latest style to produce an image by Service in London and New York.
number. We do not set ourselves fabric rendering of clothing, hair, decoration making lines and marks
fashion illustration To become a successful fashion
out as arbiters of what is ‘good’ or or behaviour on paper
presentation boards designer you will need to develop John’s teaching career began in the
‘bad’, but aim to promote discussion mood boards
your drawing skills, but for any United States, where he served as
in an organised fashion for an development boards F
line-up sheets career in fashion it is important to A Chair of Fashion at Savannah College
individual’s understanding of their
digital presentations have an understanding of the basic S of Art & Design. During this time he
own ethical inclination. portfolios H
principles of good fashion drawing. extended his international experience
templates I
By incorporating a ‘working with O working with illustrators and designers
ethics’ section and cover stamp Featured contributors Basics FashionDesign: Fashion N before returning to the UK to take up
Petra Börner
on all our titles, AVA Publishing aims Drawingprovides a visually D his position as Programme Leader
Lovisa Burfitt
to help a new generation of students, Cecilia Carlstedt orientated introduction to the subject R for Fashion at Winchester, where he
educators and practitioners find Stephanie Finnan by considering the different styles, A continues to share his knowledge and
Holly Mae Gooch W
a methodology for structuring their techniques and approaches used in expertise to support and encourage
Richard Haines
I
thoughts and reflections in this Elmaz Hüseyin the fashion industry. Packed with N design students and develop his
vital area. Helena Kruczynska interviews and work by talented G research interests in fashion.
Wendy Plovmand
designers and illustrators, this book
Tomek Sowacki
Sandra Suy will both inform and inspire you.
Howard Tangye
Luis Tinoco
ISBN-13: 978-2-940411-15-3
ava publishing sa
[email protected]
www.avabooks.ch
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£17.95
1st Proof Title: (AVA):BFD: Fashion Drawing UK
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BASICS
FASHION DESIGN
John Hopkins
05
FASHION
DRAWING
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An AVA Book
Published by AVA Publishing SA
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Copyright © AVA Publishing SA 2010
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without
permission of the copyright holder.
ISBN 978-2-940411-15-3
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Design by Sifer Design
Cover illustration by Cecilia Carlstedt
Production by AVA Book Production Pte. Ltd., Singapore
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All reasonable attempts have been made to trace, clear and credit the
copyright holders of the images reproduced in this book. However, if any
credits have been inadvertently omitted, the publisher will endeavour to
incorporate amendments in future editions.
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2 / 3
1 Illustration by Lovisa Burfitt.
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Contents
Introduction 6
How to get the most out of this book 8
Drawing to communicate
your ideas 10 The fashion figure 48 Technical drawings 78
A brief history 12 Understanding fashion Understanding garments 80
Art supplies for drawing 20 proportions 50 Drawing fashion flats 84
The fashion sketch 24 Drawing from life 52 Drawing technical
Working drawings 30 Creating poses 56 specifications 88
Sketchbooks 36 Fashion heads, Vector graphics
faces and hair 60 and bitmaps 90
Interviews Arms, hands,
Elmaz Hüseyin 42 legs and feet 66 Interview
Lovisa Burfitt 44 Drawing men 70 Tomek Sowacki 94
Interview
Howard Tangye 74
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4 / 5
Colouring and rendering 96 Presentation formats 120 Fashion portfolios 148
Colour for fashion 98 Fashion illustration 122 What is a fashion portfolio? 150
Fabric rendering 104 Presentation boards 126 Digital portfolios 154
Collage and mixed media 110 Digital presentations 134
Digital colouring Interview
and rendering 112 Interviews Stephanie Finnan 156
Cecilia Carlstedt 136
Interview Luis Tinoco 140
Petra Börner 116 Sandra Suy 144
Conclusion 160
Templates 162
Further resources 166
Acknowledgements and picture credits 168
Working with ethics 169
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Introduction 6 / 7
1 Fashion designer and
‘I don’t know where I’m going until I actually sit down illustrator Lovisa Burfitt
describes her drawing style
and draw.’
as ‘very fast and restless’.
Jean Muir
Drawing may be described as an evolutionary process that
is fundamental to communicating ideas. This is also true of
fashion drawing, with its distinctive nuances and associations
with style. The exciting breadth and diversity of what
constitutes fashion drawing today is testimony to the
creative vision of fashion designers and fashion illustrators
alike. It reflects the range and scope of media now available,
from a simple graphite pencil to sophisticated CAD programs.
Basics Fashion Design: Fashion Drawingprovides a visually
orientated introduction to the different drawing styles,
techniques and approaches that are taught at colleges and
used extensively in the fashion industry. The first part of the
book addresses the basic principles of good fashion drawing,
including the importance of the ubiquitous fashion sketch in
communicating an idea. Understanding fashion proportions in
relation to the anatomy of the standing figure is considered in
chapter two. The following chapter introduces the distinctive
nature and purpose of fashion ‘flats’ and the linear drawing
processes of individual garments. The role of computers to
support and enhance the drawing process is also considered
and compared to more traditional hand-rendering techniques.
The second part of the book covers drawing enhancements,
including colour rendering as an important aspect of fashion
artwork, collage and mixed media techniques. Finally, fashion
drawings for presentation formats and fashion portfolios are
explained and visually illustrated.
Perhaps the most defining characteristic of the fashion
drawing process, and particularly the fashion sketch, is that
it should enable the designer or illustrator to express him or
herself. It should give rise to a personal drawing style, much
like we have our own handwriting styles. Drawing can take
time to establish and a lifetime to perfect. However, it’s worth
perfecting and it does get better with practice!
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How to get the most out of this book
This book is a visually orientated introduction to fashion drawing
and illustration. Each chapter provides numerous examples of the
different drawing styles, techniques and approaches that are taught
on fashion courses and used within the industry.
Throughout the book there are interviews with talented designers
and illustrators, each of which offers a different perspective on
drawing styles as well as an insight into the fashion industry.
Clear navigation Captions
Each chapter has a clear These provide image
heading to allow readers details and commentary
to quickly locate areas of to guide the reader in the
interest. exploration of the visuals
displayed.
Drawing to communicate your ideas 20 / 21
Art supplies for drawing Pencils and charcoal
Setting up your workspace to enable you to draw is a fundamental 1 Example of working Pencils are among the most versatile are well-suited to most papers and
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people draw on a flat surface but it is worth considering whether to of grades, but most people work
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the best way to approach drawing. Arranging your art supplies on pencils can be useful for producing working with pencil since it offers
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on your drawing. Finally, relax and enjoy the experience. adding tonal values. It’s always worth paper sizes. Newsprint is well-suited
experimenting with pencil drawing, for charcoal, allowing its deeper tonal
especially when starting out. Pencils values to come through.
1
Drawing to communicate your ideas A brief history >Art supplies for drawing > The fashion sketch
g Examples Introductions
win Imagery accompanying Special section introductions
a the content, visually outline basic concepts that
Dr describing fashion will be discussed.
on drawing styles and
shi techniques.
a
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8 / 9
Headings Additional information
These enable the reader to Box-outs elaborate on
break down text and refer techniques discussed in
quickly to topics of interest. the main text.
Colouring and rendering 102 / 103
Colour forecasting
Selecting colours – or, more develop ‘lab dips’ and ‘strike-offs’ for Trendstop, Peclers, Li Edelkoort for 1–8 Colour forecasting and Lab dips
specifically, the right colours for a printed textiles. Additionally, the Trend Union and Promostyl, among catwalk trend images from A process whereby a fabric
particular season – is crucial in the global fashion industry is served by a others, are well-respected authorities Trendstop. swatch is test dyed to meet
fashion industry and can mean the network of trend and fashion on colour, each producing a variety an exact colour standard.
difference between success and forecasting companies that provide of specialist reports for their fashion Lab dips are reviewed in a
failure in terms of a label’s image and detailed colour analysis, colour clients. They also employ fashion- light box under controlled
sales. Fashion designers will often direction and market-trend research orientated illustrators who contribute lighting conditions and
visit their suppliers to discuss colours for fashion and interiors up to two to their publications with hand-drawn may be analysed with a
for the coming season and will work years in advance of the selling illustrations alongside CAD artwork spectrometer.
closely with their textile partners to season. Companies such as and colour presentation flats.
Strike-offs
A strike-off is a small run of
screen-printed fabric, which
is used to test the integrity of
the screen for accuracy and
colour trueness. It also refers
to fabric that is printed in
new colours or on new
grounds with existing screens
before a production run.
1–2 4
5–6
Colouring and rendering 3 7–8 Colour for fashion > Fabric rendering his book
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