Woven fabric structure design and product planning

166 Pages·2015·13.232 MB·English

by  Hayavadana, J

Woven Fabric Structure Design and Product
Planning
© 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
© 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
Woven Fabric Structure
Design and Product Planning
J. Hayavadana

WOODHEAD PUBLISHING INDIA PVT LTD
New Del hi, India
© 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
CRC Press Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
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© 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
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Version Date: 20150518
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The book is specially dedicated to
My God
My Parents
My Wife Dr. M. Vanitha MD
&
My Son J. Arvind

© 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
© 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
Contents
Dedication v
Preface xvii
1 Introduction to fabric structure 1
1.1 The process of fabric formation 2
1.2 Important parts of loom 3
1.2.1 Heald shafts 3
1.2.2 Sley or lay 4
1.2.3 Shuttle 4
1.2.4 Shuttle box 4
1.3 Picker 4
1.3.1 Reed 4
1.3.2 Warp beam 5
1.3.3 Back beam 5
1.3.4 Breast beam 5
1.3.5 Cloth beam 5
1.3.6 Passage of warp through loom 5

1.4 General features of fabric 10
1.4.1 Group I: Classification with respect to
threads per unit area 10
1.4.2 Group II: Classification with respect to weave 11
1.5 Elements of fabric 11
1.5.1 Body vs selvedge 12
1.5.2 Face vs back 12
1.5.3 Warp and weft 13
1.5.4 Width and weight 13
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viii Contents
1.5.5 Expression of weight 13
1.5.6 Weave 15
1.5.7 Threads/unit area (reed  pick) and cover 15
1.5.8 Yarn crimp (woven fabric) 15
1.6 Fabric shrinkage 16
1.6.1 Method of notation of structure or design 17
1.7 Weave repeat 19
1.7.1 Selection of reed and its importance 20
1.8 Elements of fabric structure 21
1.9 D esign or interlacement fashion (discussion is
with respect to weaving only) 21
1.9.1 Draft or drawing plan or drawing in draft 21
1.9.2 Lifting plan or peg plan 22
1.9.3 Type of relation among elements of fabric
structure 23
1.10 Construction of elements of fabric structure 23
1.10.1 Construction of draft from design 23
1.10.2 Notation for draft calculation of number
of heald shafts and methods of draft indication 23
1.10.3 Construction of design from draft and peg plan 24
1.10.4 Construction of peg plan from design and draft
(Fig. 1.10) 25
1.10.5 Construction of draft from design and peg plan 26

1.11 Types of draft in weaving 27
1.12 Straight draft 27
1.12.1 Point draft 28
1.12.2 Skip draft 29
1.13 Broken draft 30
1.13.1 Sateen draft 30
1.13.2 Divided draft 30
1.13.3 Grouped draft 31
1.13.4 Curved drafts 31
© 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
Contents ix
1.13.5 Combined draft 31
1.14 Practical aspects of fabric designing 32
1.15 Illustrative example for calculations in weaving 34
1.16 Exercises for students 35
Multiple choice questions; select the correct answer: 36
Write answers to the following in 2 or 3 sentences: 38
Essay type questions; write answers to the following: 38
References 39
2 Classification of weaves and study of plain weave 41
2.1 Characteristics of weaves 41
2.2 Classification of weaves 42
2.2.1 Classification of single-layered fabrics 42
2.3 R ib and cord effects in plain weave
(without weave modification) 45
2.4 Modifications of plain weave 45
2.4.1 Necessity 45
2.4.2 Modification of plain in warp way – warp rib
[Figs. 2.1(a)–(f)] 45
2.4.3 Weaving arrangement 47
2.4.4 Applications of warp rib 47
2.4.5 Commercial significance of ribs production 47
2.4.6 Production of weft rib or moreen
[Figs. 2.2(a)–(d′)] 48

2.4.7 Hair cords 49
2.5 Matt, hopsack or basket weaves and fabrics 50
2.5.1 Modification of matt: fancy matt and stitched
hopsack (Figs. 2.4–2.7) 51
2.6 Poplin and repp fabrics 52
2.7 Figured repps 52
2.8 Classification of plain cloths 53
2.8.1 Basis of classification of plain cloths 53
2.8.1.1 Based on construction 53
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x Contents
2.8.1.2 Based on weight 54
2.8.1.3 Based on cover factor 54
2.8.1.4 Based on weight factor 54
2.9 Approximately square plain cloths 54
2.9.1 Light-weight square plain cloths 55
2.9.1.1 Cotton dairy cloth 55
2.9.1.2 Cotton cheesecloth 55
2.9.1.3 Cotton cloth for electrical insulation 55
2.9.1.4 Cotton tracing cloth 56
2.9.1.5 Cotton filter cloth 56
2.9.1.6 Cotton typewriter ribbon fabric 56
2.9.1.7 Bleached linen cambric 56
2.9.1.8 Spun viscose dress fabric 56
2.9.1.9 Filament nylon blouse and
lingerie fabric 57
2.9.1.10 Filament nylon overall fabric 57
2.9.2 Medium-weight square plain cloths 57
2.9.2.1 Cotton sheeting 57
2.9.3 Heavy-weight square plain fabrics 58
2.9.3.1 Light-weight cotton duck 58
2.9.3.2 Heavy-weight cotton duck 58
2.9.3.3 Thorn-proof tweed 58

2.9.4 Warp-faced plain cloths 58
2.9.4.1 Terylene shirting 59
2.9.4.2 Acetate dress poult 59
2.9.4.3 Cotton poplin 59
2.9.4.4 Cotton canvas for sports shoes 60
2.9.4.5 Cotton canvas for conveyor belts 60
2.9.5 Weft-faced plain cloth 60
2.9.5.1 Cotton limbric 60
2.9.5.2 Cotton casement cloth 60
© 2015 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.