Table Of Content

$24.95 Can. $36.95 Woodworkers are only as good as the hand tools they use—and the only way to get the most out of them is to know the essentials about them: Which ones you can't do without or that do a certain job better than others. What techniques they're best for. How to keep yours in top condition. That's why this guide is vital to every craftsman who wants to work on wood with confidence. The importance of precision is unrivaled—and marking and measuring tools are the foundation of accuracy, from awls to trammel points. Also critical are saws. What's out there? Which ones should you use when? Understand the terms used to describe them, their teeth, and their cutting action. Only hand-planing or scraping can produce the "burnished patches" we all appreciate in wood as opposed to the smooth, artificial surfaces of plastic laminates. Shaping tools are also special because no machine can duplicate their results. When it's time to fine-tune a joint, that's when you reach for a chisel. To make that smooth round-over on a cabriole leg, only (continued on back flap) Production Staff Design: Sandy Freeman Illustrations: Triad Design Group, Ltd. Cover Design: Karen Nelson Copy Editor: Barbara Mcintosh Webb Photography: Christopher J. Vendetta Page Layout: Sandy Freeman Cover Photo: Bill Milne Index: Nan Badgett Library of Congress The written instructions, photographs, illustra- Cataloging-in-Publicah'on Data Available tions,and projects in this volume are intended for the personal use of the reader and may be reproduced for that purpose only. Any other use, especially commercial use, is forbidden under law without the written permission of the copyright holder. Every effort has been made to ensure that all the Published by Sterling Publishing Company, Inc. information in this book is accurate. However, 387 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10016 due to differing conditions, tools, and individ- c2001 by Rick Peters usul skill, the publisher cannot be responsible for Distributed in Canada by Sterling Publishing any injuries, losses, or other damages which Canadian Manda Group may result from the use of information in this one antic Avenue, Suite 105 book. Toronto Ontario, Canada M6K 3E7 distributed in Great Britain and Europe by PLC, Wellington House, 125 Strand, WC2R OBB, England Distributed in Australia by Capricorn Link Pry. ltd. Windsor, NSW 2756 Australia China reserved : •: :r3-666i-o • • •:.•;*• '•. ',.« ,p -\ *-» "% •• 1 1 - • • •• *' • • * *s ' -r -' \ '• • «# " / CONTENTS Acknowledgments... 4 Introduction... 5 MEASURING AND MARKING TOOLS... 6 CUTTING TOOLS... 38 SMOOTHING TOOLS... 58 SHAPING TOOLS... 106 A ASSEMBLY TOOLS... B8 • CLAMPING TOOLS... IS6 V SHARPENING TOOLS... 172 Appendix: Restoring Old Hand Tools... 188 Index... 190 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS For all their help, advice, and support, I offer special thanks to: Christopher Vendetta, ace photographer, for taking such beautiful photographs in less than desirable conditions (my dusty workshop) and under such tight deadlines. William Warner, antique tool aficio nado, for allowing Chris and me to come into his home and photograph just a tiny portion of his incredible tool collection. All of the luscious tools shown in the begin ning of each chapter are from Williams collection. Sandy Freeman, book designer extraor David Sendall with American Tool dinaire, whose exquisite art talents are Companies, Inc., manufacturers of such evident on every page of this book. trusted names as Marples, Record, Irwin, and Quick-Grip, for supplying numerous Barb Webb, copyediting whiz, for ferret products, photos, illustrations, and tech ing out mistakes and gently suggesting nical information. corrections. John Economaki of Bridge City Tool Greg Kopfer with the Triad Design Works for lending me just a small portion Group for his superb illustrations. of the fabulous measurement and layout Heartfelt thanks to my family: Cheryl, tools they manufacture. Lynne, Will, and Beth, for putting up with Tom Lie-Nielsen of Lie-Nielsen Tool the craziness that goes with writing a book works, Inc., for supplying me with some of and living with a woodworker: late nights, his world-class planes, saws, and scrapers. short weekends, wood everywhere, noise (Sure, I'm sending them back, Tom. They're from the shop, and sawdust footprints in in the mail—really.) the house. Jessica Burtt with DMT (Diamond And finally, words can't express my Machining Technology, Inc.) for supplying gratitude to my wife, Cheryl, for taking off photos, product, and technical information the rough edges and smoothing out the on their most excellent diamond stones. manuscript. Thanks, Love. INTRODUCTION My love of hand tools began when my and 11,1 received my first power tools, a mom gave me a tool set for my sixth birth Black & Decker jigsaw and finish sander day. You may even know it—the classic (now collectors' items; still have them, too). Popular Mechanics blue-handled tools in Although now I have a fully equipped the wood case. Man, I loved that set. Even shop that rivals Norm's, I still love my hand though it was almost bigger than me, I'd tote tools and I use them every chance I get. it around the house "fixing" things. One of Occasionally, I'll build something com the first things I "fixed" was a coffee table in pletely by hand just to slow things down the front room that was too high for me. and "connect" with the wood. Working Out came the ruler to carefully measure 6" wood with hand tools for me has always up from the bottom of each leg. Then I used been a joyful experience that I just don't get my very own saw to lop off each leg at the from power tools. It's very personal—the mark: a lot of work, but I was the "man" for feel of the wood as it responds to the tools the job. Heck, I even sanded the bottom of edge. There's nothing quite like it. each leg before flipping the table back over If you haven't had the chance to build (no simple task when something entirely by you're six). hand, especially if you Mom, needless to say, start with a rough-sawn was not impressed. The plank and hand-plane it, saw went away. And over I heartily recommend it. the next few weeks, so Even if it looks awful in did almost everything the end (like my first else, one tool at a time, dovetailed box—yikes!), until I was left with a ruler and a try square you'll be glad you made the effort. If noth (do you know how much neat stuff is inside ing else, it will give you a profound appreci a toaster?). Anyway, my passion for tools was ation for cabinetmakers of yore. You might so strong and so obvious that I often even get hooked. received tools instead of toys as gifts at Just stay away from the coffee table. Christmas or birthdays. My brother Jim gave me my first real toolbox: a blue metal Rick Peters union-made box. I still have it. At ages 10 Fall 2001 "...for the strength and durability of any structure, independent of the material, depends on precision, and any inaccuracy not only frequently impairs outward beauty, but produces, in a corresponding degree, a real want of firmness and stability." BLACKIE & SONS (1853) MEASURING and MARKING TOOLS In woodworking, doing a project "by the numbers" isn't a mark of mediocrity, or same old same old; it's absolutely vital. The "numbers" involved, of course, are the dimensions of the wood being worked. When you don't measure and lay out with precision—as Mr. Blackie notes—you can end up with a piece that lacks not only beauty but also durability. Your shop tools might be the finest and sharpest available. But if you can't both measure and mark accurately those tools are virtually worthless. Look at the rosewood, ivory and brass in the photo at left—this wasn't mere indulgence. Woodworkers of yore knew that these quality materials were worth the relative high cost at the time (just one of these beauties could have cost a couple of months' worth of wages). Our predecessors in the craft understood the importance of buying quality to create quality And like famed cabinetmakers Blackie & Sons, they knew full well the impor tance of precision. There are lots of steps involved in crafting a fine piece with confidence—and every one relies on going "by the numbers." Clockwise from top left: an "American Combined Level and Grade Finder," patented in 1904; a handmade 24" panel gauge; a folding rule No. 15, made by C. S. Co.; calipers (brass with steel legs); Stanley No. 5 trammel points; a 71/2" combined try and miter square, made by Stanley Tools; a Stanley No. 7 scratch awl; Henry Disston and Sons' mortise gauge; and a Stanley No. 40 ivory and German silver caliper rule. MARKING TOOLS If you were to ask most woodworkers what the foundation of accuracy is, they'd likely say the ruler, the tape measure, or the square. But I've always felt it's the marking tools you choose. Granted, the rule, tape measure, and square are essential to precision; but without a clean, crisp marking tool, all their accuracy is for naught. Pencils The most common marking tool in the shop is a pencil (top photo). A carpenter's pencil is not suitable for intricate layout work; with its thick lead and cumbersome body, it's best left for initial layout of rough boards. Many wood workers use a standard No. 2 pencil for their layout work. This is certainly better than a car penter's pencil, but it can still add significant errors to your work. The reason is that the line thickness varies as the lead wears (middle draw ing). This might seem trivial, but it's not. NO. 2 PENCIL Say, for example, you're laying out dovetails for a set of drawers. If you use a standard pencil, the lead will wear considerably. Unless you con stantly sharpen it, you can introduce anywhere from 1/32" to 1/16" of error from start to finish (no wonder those dovetails don't fit!). My choice for MECHANICAL all-around layout work is a mechanical pencil PENCIL with a 5mm lead. This leaves a crisp, even line— even as it wears. Marking knives When accuracy is para mount, I reach for a marking knife (bottom photo). As long as it's sharp, a marking knife produces an extremely fine line on a board. On the plus side, this can help guide a chisel or saw during a cut. The downside to this is that cutting into the wood can leave marks that may need to be removed later.