Women’s Work: How Culinary Cultures Shaped Modern Spain PDF
Preview Women’s Work: How Culinary Cultures Shaped Modern Spain
HOW CULINARY CULTURES SHAPED MODERN SPAIN K R WWW O OO W M EN’S RE BECCA ING RAM WOMEN’S WORK WOMEN’S WORK How Culinary Cultures Shaped Modern Spain Rebecca Ingram vanderbilt university press Nashville, Tennessee Copyright 2022 Vanderbilt University Press All rights reserved First printing 2022 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Ingram, Rebecca, 1977- author. Title: Women’s work : how culinary cultures shaped modern Spain / Rebecca Ingram. Description: Nashville, Tennessee : Vanderbilt University Press, [2022] | Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers: LCCN 2022005479 (print) | LCCN 2022005480 (ebook) | ISBN 9780826504890 (paperback) | ISBN 9780826504906 (hardcover) | ISBN 9780826504913 (epub) | ISBN 9780826504920 (pdf) Subjects: LCSH: Food habits—Spain. | Cooking—Spain—History. | Women—Spain—Social conditions—History. | Social role—Spain—History. | Spain—Social life and customs. | Feminism—Spain. Classification: LCC GT2853.S7 I54 2022 (print) | LCC GT2853.S7 (ebook) | DDC 394.1/20946—dc23/eng/20220215 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2022005479 LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2022005480 In memory of Helen Christine Nelms Windham CONTENTS Acknowledgments ix Introduction 1 Emilia Pardo Bazán: Culinary Nationalist 1 and Ambivalent Feminist 15 Frivolous and Feminist: Carmen de Burgos’s 2 Culinary-Political Platform 44 Mythologies of Culinary Modernity: 3 Gregorio Marañón and Nicolasa Pradera 77 Cooking and Civic Virtue: Women, Work, 4 and Barcelona 109 Conclusion: Feminist Food Studies and Spain 139 Notes 148 Bibliography 182 Index 00 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS One summer in the mid-nineties, I was sitting in the air conditioning in my Grandmama’s dining room. Calling it a dining room makes it seem grander than it actually was. Her house was a very modest one (the air conditioning was a recent upgrade), originally with only two bedrooms and no indoor plumbing, that she and my grandfather shared with two maiden aunts dur- ing the early years of their marriage. The kitchen was galley style. Any over- night visitors were always woken at six in the morning by the banging pots as she put clean dishes away or took them out to get started on the proj- ect of the day. Breakfast was usually eggs, a bit of meat (bacon or smoked sausage), and toasted white bread. Grandmama thought it was special to make pancakes for her grandchildren. But I always preferred her biscuits, made with White Lily flour and butter-flavored Crisco. Ingredients were never measured; she made them by feel as her hand combined the flour and the fat and then she added buttermilk a little at a time. One day that summer Grandmama was cleaning out an old cabinet. She tasked me with coming up with what we should have for supper, something that used what was left of an economy pack of ground beef from the local Piggly Wiggly. Rifling through all the papers and assorted church cook- books from the cabinet, I came upon a recipe pamphlet that looked old. On closer inspection it was a book of recipes that came with a gas range, one that she and Grandpa had bought new from Sears & Roebuck in the 1960s. Sure that I would find a tasty recipe for something new in that book, I paged through the recipes. I don’t recall details now. But I do remember the feeling of how that recipe booklet and the instructions within it placed me as a reader in a different time. Grandmama and I had a conversation about them. I asked her what she had cooked from it, if anything—she really only followed reci- pes for baking. We paged through the book. And she reminisced about the ix
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