Winemaking: From Grape Growing to Marketplace

496 Pages·2002·17.967 MB·English

by  Richard P. Vine PhD, Ellen M. Harkness MS, Sally J. Linton (auth.)

WINEMAKING
WINEMAKING
FROM GRAPE GROWING
TO MARKETPLACE
SECOND EDITION
Richard P. Vine, PhD
Purdue Unlverslty
West Lafayette, Indiana
lilen M. Harkness, MS
Purdue Unlverslty
West Lafayette, Indiana
and
SalIy J. Unton
Purdue Unlverslty
West Lafayette, Indiana
Springer Science+Business Media, LLC
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Vine, Richard P.
Winemaking: from grape growing to marketplaceIRichard P. Vine, Ellen M.
Harkness, anei Sally J. Linton.-2nd ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references anei index.
ISBN 978-1-4613-5215-0 ISBN 978-1-4615-0733-8 (eBook)
DOI 10.1007/978-1-4615-0733-8
1. Wine and wine making. 1. Harkness, E. M. (Ellen M). II. Linlon, Sally J. m. TItle.
TP548 .V4844 2002
663'.2-dc21
2002024122
o
2002 Springer Science+B usiness Media New York
Originally published by Kluwer Academic / Plenum Publishers. New York in 2002
Softcover reprint of the hardcover 2nd edition 2002
AII rights reserved This work may nOI be transJated or copied in whole or in part without
the written pennission ofthe publisher (Springer Science+8usiness Media, LLC),
except for brief excerpts in connection with revit.-ws or scholarly analysis. Vse in connection
with any fonn of infonnation storage and retrieval, electronic adaptat ioD, computer software,
Of by similar or dissimiJar methodology now know or hereafter developed is forbidden.
The use in this publication oftrade narnes, trademarks, service marks and similar terms,
even if the are not identified as such, is not to be taken as an expression of opinion as to
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PREFACE
Over the past several decades, consumer interest in the fine vintage wines produced
by small "boutique" vintners across the United States has grown to rival that of
many European estates. This attention continues to intensify, especially for the truly
good wines that are reasonably priced. Consumers are, however, unforgiving
especially wine enthusiasts. Second-class wines do not succeed just because a
vintner is new. The methods and controls essential to vintners in the production and
marketing of top-grade wines have advanced. This second edition of Winemaking
has updated and, in some cases, completely revised the material associated with
these disciplines.
Fine wine is much like other art forms, as it is the infinite variability of factors
pertaining to the subject that renders it so complex-and able to attract buyer's
attention. Hundreds of different vine varieties are cultivated around the world,
and no doubt an even greater number of fruit and berry cultivars. Andwith the
addition of such factors as terroir (soil and climate attributes) changing every
vintage season, varied vineyard cultivation and harvesting techniques, advancing
production technology, dynamic markets, and overall operational philosophy, one
can easily understand the enormous breadth and depth of variation that exists.
This diversity generates an unimaginable number of different wine possibilities.
One need only visit a fine wine shop in a large city to see hundreds of different
v
vi Preface
wines for sale, yet these are still only a very small percentage of what the entire
world vinifies every vintage. Since the first edition of Winemaking, the world of
commercial wine has gotten not only better but bigger.
In larger wineries one can usually find viticulturists (grape-growing technolo
gists), food chemists, enologists (winemaking technologists), recordkeepers, mar
keting specialists, and other well-trained professionals who respond and supervise
within their respective fields of expertise. For the small estate vintner, the com
prehension and responsibility of wine production, administration, and marketing
usually weigh heavily, often entirely, on the owner and his or her family. The pre
face to the first edition of Winemaking stated that it was not necessary for the small
winery vintner to have advanced degrees in the physical and business sciences.
While this remains true, the second edition addresses the reality of a bigger and
better wine industry placing greater demands upon start-up vintners. A solid aca
demic background generally helps in carrying out the increasing administrative,
production, and marketing functions necessary for managing a successful new
winery.
One should fully understand the integral involvement of the Bureau of Alcohol,
Tobacco, and Firearms (ATF) in the permits and regUlations that must be complied
with in operating a winery. Part 240 of Title 27 of the Code of Federal Regulations
(CFR) is a source often quoted in this book to outline the application, documen
tation, and reporting forms and procedures necessary for vintners in the start-up
and operation of a sound, legal, business. Further, each state has supplemental
requirements with which vintners must be in compliance.
The second edition of Winemaking remains in design a foundation text on
grape growing, wine making, and wine marketing from which both would-be and
established vintners can advance to more comprehensive texts. Winemaking will
also continue to serve independent wine wholesalers, distributors, retailers, and
restaurateurs as a reference from which to understand the rationale of methods
employed by estate vintners. Advanced amateur wine makers will also find this
book a handy guide in their cellars. Similarly, wine connoisseurs can find value
in its promotion of a deeper understanding of wine craftsmanship. Overall, this
book should bridge the ever-widening gap between the art and science in the entire
world of wine.
Everyone having more than a casual interest in wine should own a copy of the
second edition of Winemaking. Its low price can be repaid many times over by its
wealth of easy-to-read, updated information for beginners trying to understand the
ways that wine is made by experts.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The authors would like to thank Purdue University for its generous support in the
preparation oft his book. In particular, Dr. Victor Lechtenberg, Dean ofA griculture,
and Dr. Randy Woodson, Associate Dean of Agriculture, have given of their time,
energies and resources to help realize this project.
Dr. Phil Nelson, Purdue Department Head of Food Science has also given us
sound advice, along with comprehensive assistance, without which this work would
not have been possible. Dr. Richard Linton was a tireless reader and critic in the
advancement of this second edition. As with almost every book authored in an
academic community, much is owed to all the enthusiastic students who contribute
far more than is generally thought about. Thank goodness for their boundless
energy.
We are grateful to the Indiana Wine Grape Council for its many contributions
toward creating Winemaking: From Vineyard to Marketplace. Council President
Bill Oliver, Jr., previous Council President Jim Butler, and all members of the
Council provided both material and inspirational influences. Special gratitude goes
to Indiana vintner Dave Gahimer, who redesigned the cellar record forms presented
throughout this book.
Similarly, the Indiana Wine Guild, from which the initial need for this book was
first identified, must be recognized. Special thanks go to Bill Oliver, Sr., and Ben
vii
viii Acknowledgments
Sparks for their leadership in the rebirth ofc ommercial winegrowing in midwestern
America. Indiana Wine Guild President David Lundstrom continues this guidance
and has been an essential resource for us.
Most of all, we would like to thank our families and friends, who excused us
from considerable personal quality time to create this manuscript.
To all of you, we are deeply grateful.
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION xix
1 HISTORY OF WINE IN AMERICA 1
Eastern America 2
Western America 9
National Prohibition \3
American Wine in the 20th Century and the New Millennium 17
The American Wine Booms 19
2 VITICULTURE (GRAPE GROWING) 24
Site Selection 26
Climate 26
Soils 27
The Vine 27
Cultivar Selection 30
Vitis vinifera 31
Major Vitis vinifera White Varieties 31
Chardonnay 31
Sauvignon Blanc 31
Johannisberg Riesling 32
Semillon 33
ix
X Contents
Gewurztraminer 33
Muscat de Frontignan 33
Pinot Blanc 33
Sylvaner 33
Pinot Grigio 34
Major Vilis vinifera Red Varieties 34
Cabernet Sauvignon 34
Merlot 34
Pinot Noir 34
Gamay 35
Sangiovese 35
Nebbiolo 36
Zinfandel 36
Syrah 36
Cabernet Franc 36
Mourvedre 37
Petite Sirah 37
Vitis labrusca 37
Major Vilis labrusca White Wine Varieties 37
Catawba 37
Delaware 37
Niagara 38
Major Vilis labrusca Red Wine Varieties 38
Concord 38
Ives 39
Vilis riparia 39
Vilis rotundifolia 40
Hybrids and Grafting 40
French-American Hybrids 41
Major French-American Hybrid White Wine Cultivars 41
SeyvalBlanc 41
Vidal Blanc 42
Vignoles 43
Major French-American Hybrid Red Wine Cultivars 43
Chambourcin 43
Chancellor 43
Marechal Foch 43
Vineyard Establishment 43
Cost and Value 43
Start-Up 46
Labor Costs 46
Equipment Costs 46
Variable Costs 46
Fixed Costs 46
Budget 47
Site Preparation 57
Contents xi
Vineyard Layout 57
Planting 57
Vine Training 59
Trellising 59
Training Systems 59
Weed Control 61
Herbicide Injury 62
Vineyard Management 63
Pruning 63
Pest Control 65
Diseases 65
Insects 69
3 WINE MICROBIOLOGY 71
Fermentation 71
Yeasts 73
Native Yeasts 73
Yeast Spoilage 74
Yeast Identification 77
Commercial Yeasts 78
Optimizing Must Conditions 78
Preparation of Starter Cultures 79
Stuck Fermentations 79
Bacteria 80
Lactic Acid Bacteria 80
Malolactic Fermentation 83
Commercial Malolactic Fermentation Cultures 84
Encouraging Malolactic Fermentation 84
Monitoring Malolactic Fermentation 85
Preventing Malolactic Fermentation 85
Acetic Acid Bacteria 85
Monitoring Vinegar Spoilage 87
Controlling Vinegar Spoilage 87
Molds 88
The Microbiological Workplace 89
Equipment 90
Factors Affecting Microbial Growth 92
Microbial Spoilage 93
Juice and Must 93
Juice Concentrates 93
Bulk Wine 94
Bottled Wine 94
Wine Preservatives 96
Sulfur Dioxide 96
Sorbic Acid 96
Benzoic Acid 97
Fumaric Acid 97