Wine Enthusiast - June 2022

142 Pages·2022·101.9 MB·English

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Winemag.com

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2017 VINTAGE 2018 VINTAGE 2019 VINTAGE
POINTS POINTS POINTS
SEPTEMBER 2019 SEPTEMBER 2020 NOVEMBER 2021
June/July 2022
56
Palms and vines
are the stars of Cover Photography by Ryan Struck,
the Central Coast Photography Assistant Baker Carroll
2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE/JULY 2022
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Wine Enthusiast – November 2021 Wine Enthusiast – November 2021 Wine Enthusiast – November 2021 ©2
June/July 2022
16
Surf and
sniff
Departments
WINEMAG.COM
10 Napa and Sonoma Winemakers
Love Luxury Sauivgnon Blanc.
Is Anyone Buying?
BY MARIA C. HUNT
OUT & ABOUT
18 22
12 Wine Paris 2022, Villa Sparina
Wine Dinner, Laurent-Perrier
Summer- Yellow envy
Wine Dinner
ready pour
THE CRUSH 
16 California coastal wine
producers talk surf and wine 
18 A show-stopping drink for your
summer gatherings  
20 Petit Verdot may be small, but
it’s going places 
22 Uncover Vin Jaune, the
hallmark of Jura Columns Buying Guide
24 Vegas goes all-in on its wine
94 Burgundy
destinations  IN THIS ISSUE
119 Portugal
26 Keep cool with summer no-
8 The Paradox of 120 Spain
cook meals and wine pairings 
Rediscovering California   122 Emilia-Romagna
28 These farmers are growing BY JACQUELINE STRUM  123 Tuscany
coffee in an unlikely place
124 Austria
VIEWPOINT 
30 This creamy papaya gazpacho 126 Germany
will make your heart sing 126 Washington
38 Small but Mighty
127 Oregon
32 Q&A with Ann Noble, inventor BY VIRGINIE BOONE
129 California
of the Wine Aroma Wheel 
LAST DROP  131 New York
34 Get carried away with lambic 34
132 Argentina
baskets  136 How Breast Cancer Changed
133 Australia
36 Pop bottles with popcorn My Relationship with Wine  A basket
134 Spirits
BY CARRIE HONAKER and a
135 Beer case
4| WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE/JULY 2022
WineArtEstate.com
VOLUME 35, NUMBER 4
Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree
MANAGING EDITOR, PRINT John Capone MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL Emily Saladino
EDITORIAL DESIGN TASTING CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
SENIOR EDITOR, DIGITAL ART DIRECTOR ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR EUROPEAN EDITOR SPIRITS
Dylan Garret Monica Simon Fiona Adams Roger Voss Kara Newman
SENIOR EDITOR, PRINT DIGITAL DESIGNER SENIOR TASTING COORDINATOR ITALIAN EDITOR BEER
Stacy Briscoe Eric DeFreitas Craig Chamberlain Kerin O’Keefe John Holl
DIGITAL EDITOR VISUALS PRODUCER ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR WINE FOOD
Kristen Richard Jesse Reiter Cody Wexler Virginie Boone, Mike DeSimone, Nils Bernstein
Jim Gordon, Anna Lee C. Iijima,
ASSISTANT EDITOR, DIGITAL ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER SOCIAL Jeff Jenssen, Matt Kettmann, TRAVEL
J’nai Gaither Tom Arena Lauren Mowery
Christina Pickard, Sean P. Sullivan,
DIRECTOR OF SOCIAL MEDIA
ASSISTANT EDITOR, PRINT Jesica Vargas, Aleksandar Zecevic
Elyse Estrella
Jacy Topps
SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST
DIGITAL EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
Marco Bruno
Jaime Brown
COMMUNITY COORDINATOR
Ruya Kirac
EDITORIAL OFFICES HEADQUARTERS CALIFORNIA EUROPE ITALY PACIFIC NORTHWEST
200 Summit Lake Drive Virginie Boone, vboone@wine Roger Voss Kerin O’Keefe Sean P. Sullivan,
Valhalla, NY 10595 enthusiast.net; Jim Gordon, jgordon@ [email protected] kokeefe@ wineenthusiast.net [email protected]
TEL: [phone] wineenthusiast.net; Matt Kettmann,
[email protected] [email protected]
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL ADVERTISING Greg Remillard ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Sherrill Flaum
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ADVERTISING MARKETING WINE ENTHUSIAST COMPANIES
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WEB DEVELOPMENT
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Wine Enthusiast (ISSN 1078.3318) is published monthly except January with combined issues in February/March, June/July and August/September and an extra issue in December. Wine Enthusiast may
also publish occasional extra issues. Subscriptions are $34.95 (International: Canada $59.95; Foreign $89.95). ©2022 Wine News, Inc. 200 Summit Lake Drive, Valhalla, NY 10595. Periodical postage paid
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6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE/JULY 2022
Vintner, Youngest of
Five Crazy Brothers
www.tributewine.com
WINE ENTHUSIAST (OCTOBER 2021 ISSUE) SCORE AWARDED TO VINTAGE 2018 CABERNET SAUVIGNON. TRY OUR LATEST RELEASE. • © 2022 TRIBUTE WINERY, GLEN ELLEN, CA
inthis issue
THE PARADOX OF
REDISCOVERING
CALIFORNIA
Seeing the Golden State in a new light just
takes some glasses.
S
plash into the universe of wine and it’s nearly impossible
to avoid becoming, sometimes hopelessly, smitten with
California. With its diverse climates and terroir, incredible
bounty of locally grown and foraged food with which to pair
and easygoing ambiance, there’s almost always something new
to discover—or rediscover. In our June/July double issue, we spend as much
time in the legendary regions as we do the new, up-and-coming ones. And we
fi nd new reasons to fall in love with the Golden State all over again.
We all know Napa Cab, but where do we fi nd the source of its magic?
Contributing Editor Virginie Boone climbs the heights of the Mayacamas to
explore its wonders (page 40). This mountain range that stretches between
Napa and Sonoma creates the conditions for, as Boone says, “deliriously
delicious” Cabernet.
Farther north, we appreciate the small but mighty region of Anderson
Valley, hidden in the fog of Mendocino (page 48). Contributing Editor Jim This passionate
Gordon deft ly describes how this tiny, one-mile-wide region produces
community of
enormously elegant Pinot Noir at several boutique, family-owned estates.
winemakers
Moving south, we fi nd renewed vigor in some once-dormant and all-but-
experimenting
forgotten parts of the Central Coast. Contributing Editor Matt Kettmann
together has
investigates the exciting growth of Chalone, York Mountain and Santa Clara
Valley as they return to their winemaking heritage (page 56). This passionate palpable energy.
community of winemakers experimenting together has palpable energy.
Then, there are the California coastal winemakers who have learned more
than you might expect through their devotion to surfi ng the same wild Pacifi c
waves that infl uence their wines (page 15).
Outside of California, we take a look at the centuries-long history of the
estates that give Portugal’s Alentejo region its unique character (page 64) and
U
explore how Chilean and Argentinian winemakers are also looking to the past ES
R
A
to create more modern styles for the future (page 72). L
U
A
Beyond the vine, Spirits Editor Kara Newman rounds up glorious P
M:
O
greenmarket-driven drinks (page 76), while Contributing Editor Anna Lee T
T
O
C. Iijima delves into the art of Japanese barbecue (page 84) and the vast range B
K;
C
of drink pairings to best complement the fare. U
R
T
It’s no secret that in California fresh experiences abound. We’ve only S
N
JACQUELINE STRUM A
scratched the surface, even in a double issue, as we continue to take EDITOR & PUBLISHER W.E. Media P: RY
inspiration from our West Coast winemaking friends from farm to glass. @jackistrum TO
8| WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE/JULY 2022