WHITE MOUNTAIN A CULTURAL ADVENTURE THROUGH THE HIMALAYAS ROBERT TWIGGER To Nonaka Iku Sensei To all Mothers of Invention and Mothers of inventors Contents List of Maps PART 1 Demons PART 2 Pundits PART 3 1904 PART 4 Going Higher PART 5 Nagas Acknowledgements Select Bibliography Index Maps The Himalayas Nanda Devi Tantric Map of the Himalayas The Explorations of Nain Singh, 1865–7 The British Expedition to Lhasa, 1904 The North Face of Everest The South Face of Everest Nagaland and its Environs In your country you may be a great lord, a tax collector or a substantial landowner. Here, you are nothing. Even I, the ruler of this whole province, am nothing. Only the gods rule here. Tibetan Garpon or Viceroy, Western Tibet, 1936 All India is full of holy men stammering gospels in strange tongues, shaken and consumed in the fires of their own zeal; dreamers, babblers and visionaries, as it has been from the beginning and will continue to the end. Rudyard Kipling Only much later on, when I had already journeyed to all the continents, did I sense that adventure is not made up of distant lands and mountain tops, rather it lies in one’s readiness to exchange the domestic hearth for an uncertain resting-place. Reinhold Messner Watch out for the yak without horns, since he butts hardest. Ladakhi proverb PART I Demons
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