What Shall I Say of Clothes?: Theoretical and Methodological Approaches to the Study of Dress in Antiquity PDF
Preview What Shall I Say of Clothes?: Theoretical and Methodological Approaches to the Study of Dress in Antiquity
WHAT SHALL I SAY OF CLOTHES? SELECTED PAPERS ON ANCIENT ART AND ARCHITECTURE SERIES EDITOR MIREILLE M. LEE Number 3 What Shall I Say of Clothes? Theoretical and Methodological Approaches to the Study of Dress in Antiquity WHAT SHALL I SAY OF CLOTHES? Theoretical and Methodological Approaches to the Study of Dress in Antiquity edited by Megan Cifarelli and Laura Gawlinski Archaeological Institute of America Boston, MA 2017 WHAT SHALL I SAY OF CLOTHES? Theoretical and Methodological Approaches to the Study of Dress in Antiquity Copyright 2017 by the Archaeological Institute of America All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by means of any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permit- ted by the 1976 Copyright Act or in writing from the publisher. Requests for permission should be addressed in writing to The Archaeological Institute of America, 656 Beacon Street, 6th Floor, Boston, MA 02215-2006 USA. ISBN 978-1-931909-34-1 Library of Congress Control Number: 2016960593 Printed in the United States on acid-free paper. Contents Acknowledgments vii Introduction ix Part 1. Getting Dressed Kiersten Neumann 3 Gods among Men: Fashioning the Divine Image in Assyria Josephine A. Verduci 25 Early Iron Age Adornment within Southern Levantine Mor- tuary Contexts: An Argument for Existential Significance in Understanding Material Culture Part 2. Being Dressed Alissa M. Whitmore 47 Fascinating Fascina: Apotropaic Magic and How to Wear a Penis Eric Beckman 67 Color-Coded: The Relationship between Color, Iconography, and Theory in Hellenistic and Roman Gemstones Alexis Q. Castor 83 Surface Tensions on Etruscan and Greek Gold Jewelry Megan Cifarelli 101 Costly Choices: Signaling Theory and Dress in Period IVb Hasanlu, Iran Part 3. Dress and Identity Ayşe Bursalı, Rana Özbal, Emma Baysal, Hadi Özbal, Barış Yağcı 123 Neolithic Blue Beads in Northwest Turkey: The Social Signi- ficance of Skeuomorphism 143 Neville McFerrin Fabrics of Inclusion: Deep Wearing and the Potentials of Materiality on the Apadana Reliefs 161 Laura Gawlinski Theorizing Religious Dress 179 Elizabeth Wueste The Costumes of Late Antique Honorific Monuments: Conformity and Divergence within the Public and Political Sphere 203 Maura K. Heyn Western Men, Eastern Women? Dress and Cultural Identity in Roman Palmyra 221 List of Contributors Acknowledgments The editors of this volume would like to thank the Editori- al Board of Selected Papers in Ancient Art and Architecture for selecting the papers presented at the 2016 Annual Meet- ing of the Archaeological Institute of America, and Series Editor Mireille Lee for entrusting us with it. We are grateful to the AIA and the Kress Foundation, which funds this se- ries, for allowing this volume to include papers presented at ASOR. The opportunity to cross disciplinary and geographi- cal boundaries has made this volume much richer. List of Contributors Emma L. Baysal is a lecturer in prehistory at Trakya Univer- sity (Edirne, Turkey). She is a specialist in prehistoric person- al ornaments whose research interests include the technolo- gies of ornament manufacture, long-distance contacts traced through ornaments, and social implications of their use. She currently works at a number of prehistoric sites in Turkey. Eric Beckman is a Ph.D. candidate in classical studies at In- diana University Bloomington. He currently holds an intern- ship at the J. Paul Getty Museum, Malibu. His work focuses on Greek literature and Roman material culture, including interplays between art and text, ekphrasis, early astronomy and cosmology, and Hellenistic and Roman gemstones. Ayşe Bursalı is pursuing an MA in prehistoric archaeology at Koç University (Istanbul, Turkey). She is the cofounder, editor, and contributing author of the archaeology website Arkeofili. She is the manager of the Anatolian Weights and Measures Collection at the Pera Museum in Istanbul. Megan Cifarelli is currently professor and chair of Art His- tory at Manhattanville College in Purchase, NY. She is an art historian whose work ranges from Assyrian relief sculptures to dress items from the first millennium B.C.E. in northwest- ern Iran, with a theoretical focus on gender, identity, and em- bodied experience. Laura Gawlinski is associate professor and chair of Classical Studies at Loyola University Chicago. Her research involves combining epigraphy and archaeology to investigate how an- cient Greek religion was practiced. She is active in fieldwork and has been associated with the excavations of the Athenian Agora since 1995. Maura Heyn is an associate professor in the Department of Classical Studies at The University of North Carolina at Greensboro. She has published on various aspects of Pal- myrene portraiture, and her research focuses on funerary art Contributors as a method used by provincial inhabitants to create social identities for themselves after Roman conquest. Neville McFerrin received her Ph.D. in classical art and ar- chaeology from the University of Michigan. She is currently a Visiting Assistant Professor in the Department of Classics, Philosophy, and Religion at Sweet Briar College. Her ongo- ing work focuses on the interactions between power, gender, and dress in Pompeii. Kiersten Neumann is curator and research associate at The Oriental Institute of the University of Chicago, having re- ceived her Ph.D. from the University of California, Berkeley with a dissertation on the Neo-Assyrian temple. She special- izes in Mesopotamian visual culture and built environments, with a focus on sensory experience, ritualized practice, and cultural modes of viewing and representation. Hadi Özbal is professor emeritus of chemistry and the direc- tor of the Archaeometry Research Center at Boğaziçi Univer- sity (Istanbul, Turkey). He has been conducting archaeomet- ric investigations on archaeometallurgy and ancient residues across sites in Turkey for the past three decades and has been working at Barcın Höyük since the project began in 2007. Rana Özbal is assistant professor of archaeology at Koç Uni- versity (Istanbul, Turkey) in the Department of Archaeology and History of Art and a specialist of the prehistory of Ana- tolia. After serving as field director in the excavation of the sixth-millennium levels at Tell Kurdu (Hatay, Turkey) she co-directed the Barcın Höyük Project (Bursa, Turkey) be- tween 2007 and 2015. Josephine Verduci completed her Ph.D. in archaeology (2016) at the University of Melbourne, titled “Metal Jewel- lery of the Southern Levant and its Western Neighbours: Cross-Cultural Influences in the Early Iron Age Eastern Mediterranean.” She is a Research Fellow of the Australian Institute of Archaeology (AIA) and has published several pa- pers on Aegean and Near Eastern archaeology. Alissa Whitmore (Ph.D. University of Iowa) is an archaeolo- gist who has taught at the University of Iowa and Des Moines Area Community College. In her dissertation, she catalogued artifacts from Roman public and military bathhouse drains 222
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