Weaving Arts of the North American Indian

230 Pages·2016·41.17 MB·English

by  Dockstader Frederick J.

Weaving
Arts
the
of
North American Indian
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By the same author:
THE KACHINA AND THE WHITE MAN
INDIAN ART IN NORTH AMERICA
INDIAN ART IN MIDDLE AMERICA
INDIAN ART IN SOUTH AMERICA
KUNST IN AMERIKA, 3 vol.
INDIAN ART OF THE AMERICAS
THE AMERICAN INDIAN IN GRADUATE STUDIES
GREAT NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS
Wcdving
Arts
the
of
North American
Indian
Frederick Dockstader
J.
Thomas
Y. Crowell
Established 1834
New
York
A JAMES KERY BOOK
J.
To the memory of
MATTHEW W. STIRLING
Scholar, humanist and athlete.
Above all, a warm-hearted friend who
gave generously of himself to all who
needed his help, and earned his respect.
All rights reserved. Nopart ofthis book maybeused or reproduced in any manner
whatsoever without written permission except in the case of brief quotations
embodied in critical articles and reviews. For information address Thomas Y.
Crowell, Publishers, 10 East 53rd Street, New York, N.Y. 10022. Published
simultaneously in Canada by Fitzhenry & Whiteside Limited, Toronto.
©
Copyright James Kery, Ltd. 1978
J.
First published in 1978
ISBN 3690-01739-1
Printed and bound in Spain by
Printer industria grafica, sa
Tusct, 19 Barcelona Sant Vicenc; dels Horts 1978
Deposiio Legal B.15226-1978
IJ
:
Contents
ListofColorPlates 7
Preface 9
The Fibers ofNative American Weaving
1
A Historical Background 13
2 The Warp ofTechnique:
Methodand Mannerin Weaving 53
3 The Social Weft:
Effects ofWeaving upon Indian Life 69
4 The Economic Brocade:
Trade and Commerce 97
5 The Web of the Fabric:
A Survey ofTextile Production by Region 107
6 The Contemporary Scene:
Influences, Personalities, and Markets Today 195
7 Conservation and Preservation:
How to Carefor Woven Textiles 207
Bibliography 210
Index 220
Wool Vallero hlanquct
The beginning of Navajo weaving? A woolen two-piece Vallero
blanket, suggesting the influence upon the Navajo "Chief's
Blanket" corner development, and the later zig/ag designs of
the weave. Rio Grande Valley, ca. 1850. 38x50 inches. Paul
Schmoike photo; Maxwell Museum of Anthropology.
List of Color Plates
1 Loosefinger-weave ceinturefleche Osage •33
2 Painted cotton mantafrom Painted Cave Arizona 34
3 Weaverwith backstrap loom Maya 35
4 Weaveratvertical loom Navajo 36
5 Painted buffalo hide robe Sioux 37
6 Modernwoolshawl Hopi 38
7 Embroidered cottonceremonial shawl Hopi 39
8 Brocaded Kachinadance sash Hopi 40
9 Modern brocaded shirt Hopi 41
10 Largewoven cotton shawl Acoma 42
11 Germantownsaddle blanket Navajo 43
12 Cotton shirtwith embroidered decoration Jemez 44
13 Old-stylewoman's wool dress Navajo 45
14 Phase ir'Chief's Blanket" Navajo 46
15 Phase Iir'Chief's Blanket" Navajo 47
16 Classic Ganado "Chief's Blanket" Navajo 48
17 Woman's style "Chief's Blanket" Navajo 81
18 Zoned design wool saddle blanket Navajo 82
19 Bayetawool blanket Navajo 83
20 Germantown table runner Navajo 84
21 Germantown "eyedazzler" rug Navajo 85
22 Germantown "eyedazzler" throw Navajo 86
23 Wool blanket Navajo 87
24 Wool blanket Navajo 88
25 Woolen "eyedazzler" Navajo 89
26 Two-piece woven serape Saltillo 90
27 Two Gray Hills rug Navajo 91
28 Tourist type rug Navajo 92
29 Pullcd-wefiweave blanket Navajo 93
30 "Gallupthrow" Navajo 94
31 Serrated-design rug Navajo 95
32 Classic "Chilkai blanket" Tlingit 96
33 Mountain-goatwool danceapron Tlingit 129
34 Wool shirt with otterfurtrim Tlingit 130
35 Mountain-goat wool shirt Tlingit 131
36 Carryingbasket and wool tumpline Salish 132
37 Cedar-bark blanket; Brown Bear design Kwakiutl 133
38 Cedar-bark cape; Eagle design Kwakiutl 134
39 Elkskin pouch with quill applique Chipewyan 135
40 Net headdress with feather fringe Karok 136
41 Ceremonial headdress with painted designs Karok 137
42 Woven cornhusk "sally bag" Nez Perce 138
43 Woven cornhusk twined wallet Nez Perce 139
44 Woman's twined-weave hat Nez Perce 140
45 Early pictorial design blanket Navajo 141
46 Modern Yei design rug Navajo 142
47 Woven wool Yei rug Navajo 143
48 Woven wool Yei floor runner Navajo 144
49 Modern pictorial rug; Cornstalk and Birds Navajo 177
50 Double-faced weave blanket Navajo 178
]
51 Woven wool pillow top Navajo 179
1
52 Modern Tees Nos Pos rug Navajo 180
]
53 Ganado weave rug Navajo 181
54 Modern "raised outline" weave Navajo 182
]
55 Detail of "raised outline" weave Navajo 183
56 Embroidered cotton vest Hopi 184
1
57 Zoned vegetal dye blanket Navajo 185
58 String yarn medicine pouch Potawatomi 186
59 Painted caribou-hide coat Naskapi 87
]
60 Woven belt with trade beads Iroquois 88
61 Woolen ceinture fleche Iroquois 89
'.
62 Contemporary woven costume Hopi 90
]
63 Man's ceremonial dance costume Hopi 91
1
Women
64 in European-style dress Navajo 92
]