Water waves PDF
Preview Water waves
WATER WAVES THE WYKEHAM SCIENCE SERIES fors chooalnsd u niversities General Editors: ProfesSsiorNr e viMlolt tF,. R.S. CavendiPsrho fesosfoP rh ysics UniversoiftC ya mbridge R.N oakes G. FormerSleyn ioPrh ysiMcass ter UppinghaSmc hool broadetnh eo utlooofkt hes enigorra mmasrc hooplu pil To andt oi ntrodtuhceeu ndergradtuoat theep resesntta toef scienacsea universsittuyd iys t he aoifmt heW ykeham SciencSee riesE.a chb ooks eektso reinfotrhciels i nk betweesnc hooaln du niverslietvye alnsd,t hem aina uthor, a universtietayc hdeirs tinguiinst hheefid e ldi,sa ssisbtye d ane xperiensciexdt h-fsocrhmo olmaster. WATER WAVES � rbe-rU niversoiftW ye llington N. F.� Assisbtye d G.G hey WYKEHAMP UBLICAT(ILOONNSD OLNT)D (As ubsiodfTi aayrl&y oF rr anLctids) LONDONW INCHESTER & 1969 Firpsutb li1s9h6be9ydW ykehPaumb lic(aLtoinodLnotsnd ). © 196N9.F .B arbAelrrl.i grhetsse rNvoep adr.ot ft hpiusb lication mayb er eprodsutcoeirdnea, rd e trsiyesvtaoelrtm r,a nsmiinat ntye d, foromrb ya nmye anesl,e ctronic,p homteocchoarpneyiciconargld,,i ng, oro therwwiitsheto,hup etr ipoerr miosfts hiceoo np yroiwgnhetr . Covielrl ustbryca otuirootnfeK seyy stPorneAesg se nLctyd . 851009605 PrinitnGe rde Barti tbayiT na yloFrr anLctids. & CannHoonu se, MSatcrkeLleoitnn,d Wo.nC,. 2 Worwliddd ei striebxuctloutndhW,iee n sgt Heermni spIhnedrPieaa,k, i stan anJda pabnyA, s sociated BoLotdk.L ,oP nudbaolnniAd sn hdeorvse,r . PREFACE ocacsionnuamle riilctlarulas tiinot nhbseo oakr ien S Iu nits THE excewphtei ritems o rceov neniteoun stke n oatnssd e mai lseots h at distarnetcleiea nass impwlateyo d egroeflet asid teou na c ha.r Itn accorwdiatnwhch eas te etmosb et hper etsc eovnneinotnS,Iu nits arneo gti vaenn' si'nt hpel ursaotl h,a t tshepea kotsfae w xatv e havianp ge rioof2d 0s econnod2t,0 s ecoanndadsw ,a veleonfg th 300m erten,o 3t0 m0e ters.T he s' 'ha bse erne tahionweediv ne r spkeianogfm inust,mei lheosu,ar nsdd e groefae rswe h,i achrn eo t uniitnts h SeI s ytsem. Them athemaatrigcuatmlsew ,nh icahr em aincloyn finteod chap2ta enr3ds,a ssuamnae c uqaintwaintcchae l ctuol uetsxh tee nt ofk nowitnhdgei fferecnoteeiffinactlois f stihnaeen cdo sainnoedf powerosft hvea irablEex.pn oentfinuaclt iaornaesl usso ebdu t an expltainoiansg iviennt htee xSto.m oef t hfero mulsaheo uld preorplbyew ritwtietnth h es ymbfoolpr ra tidaielffr entiation 0 (sae xplaiinan f eoodt nobtuett)h o edr irnyad h abse erne taiinn ed ana tmtpett oa viodg ivitnogos traannga ep eparance to the mathecmsa.t i Welgltionn Juyl1 699 N. F. BARBER v LISTO F SYMBOLS Thes ymbolisn t uhse efdto eprxh ty sqiucaanlt airtaeisf el osl o:w s A and fovre rtaincdha orli zoanmtpalli toufpd aerst icle B motiionanw av(ehc a.p1 ) A foarc rostsi-osanerace(lhac a .p 32), anbd foarm pliitnut dwehosa rmomnoitci (ohcnas.p 4) a foarc ceertlaio(hnca .p1 2,) a fowra vsep eed c (anhd)f odre pitnwh a ter D g foarc crealtediuoteno g ravity fowra ve-bneuormr2 7Tj(vwealength) k L or foarl negtohrd istance I M or foarm ass m p foprr essure q fotrh sep eoefadp ratiwchleeqr2 e= u2+ v2+ w2 foarr addiiaslt ance r t fotri me forret cangrcu olmapeonntosfp rativcellteoy c i u,v ,w forre ctancgoumnlpeaonrot fps os ition x,y ,z Theg reseykmo bluss eidnt htee axrt:e (lapha)a na fnogirln re a dmieaans ure 0: or( edlttao) deans omtacelh la nogrde ie ffrence � 8 (tehtaf)o arna ngle e 7T( pif)o3 r. .1..4 1>( phfio)tr h vee clioptoyt eentxipallai intn hetede xt VI CONTENTS Prfaece v Chatper LOOKINAGT WAVES 1 1 The waviesn ot wtahteea rc-celearnadtt hifeoa nl se verlt-isceaetkhiseni gme psiltd -egauesstihmneo gt ion inaw ave-stpheeoe fwd a vetsi-daenstd s unamis Chpaetr THE MOTIONO F FRICTIONLESS 2 A FLUID 20 Physidcesaw lista hn' ideawloidrz-letdhi'ed eflauli d thec ircultahteio-orwnea mveasr ea ni rtraotional mot-itohnev ecliotpyot entialt-orh eopwrn tea sne incomprfleusiisdnim abtlhee matics Chpaetr THES PEEODF WAA VE-TARIN 36 3 Ivnentia n'gts eadsyt a'-t geuessian fgo rmula-the seapratoifvo anr i-aabf lroemsufloapr r seusre-testing thfero mulaf-roam ufloawr a voevs earfl aste a-bed the oeftn hdme a thematics Chpaetr MAKINGU PW AVEP ATTERNS 56 4 Wavegso itnhgse a mwea y-wagvoeison pgop siwtaey s wavecsr oisnsg-wabvteewse efno uwra l-lsseicihne s lkaes-rotwaatviensg- wianv ersae ctanbgsauilnar circwualvaerrs i-ppolrse usr,f taecnesw iaovne s Chpaetr GROUPOSF W AVES 76 5 Thec duoubshe avioofau g rr ooufpw avesf-roam ula fotrh ger ovuepcl ioty-ttrhaeov fes lw eilntl h Neo rth Atlantitcr-asvweefllrlloi mn gC apteoC oHrwonarlnl swemlolv itnhgr otuigdshat lr eamst-rsawveefllrllo imn g AustrtaoCl aiilaf orniean-etrihgnewy a v-eosbserving waveasts ae-wavienss itdhseee (ait nernwaalv es) wavceosm iansgrh eo-rreafctoifwo anv es vii MOREA BOUTS EAW AVES 120 Chapter 6 Hows ewaa vecsa ns hakteh eo ceabnde -detecting micrsomsse-itbheteao ft hseu rf-intvehinedt oeifaan g correlcaoffiteceiinotnm- esauricnogr trieolnass-utrhfe baeta ntdh seu rges Chpaetr THEW AKEO FA SHPI 7 118 Howw avsepsr efarodmc ean- teraecwha vcer easctc eler ates-constthrpeuta ctteoirfnnt g h wea koefa s hip thec ritsipceaielnd s halwlaotwe r-wtahvee -making resisttoaas nhcirepi -pwpalkeae rsae h enaodbt,e hind thsem oothl etbfrytaas chki wpa-vreisd insgt roenam s thwei nd tahtneid -d ceawna veemse rfgreot mh pel ace whetrhee byr e?a-kg oodbye A Posptts cri 104 SujbceItn dex 141 ThWey keShearmi es 134 Siceena cnTde cohlnolg ica VIll CHAPTER 1 lookiantgw aves peopswlietm h roburgeha wkaievnsg.T hey ddoiwvunen der SOME eacwha vaen sdw itmh roausig tph a sosveestr h em. Other rpaebcooepta ltseh rotuhgsehu rtfh,o uognwheo uslcda rcely thiintpk o ssible. Fig1.. 1P.eo pdloei nsgo methwiintgwh a ves. Otheurssseu -rbfrodatsor idtehw ea evs.P eopfleaeen lu rge to dos omtehiwnigtw ha v.e s Sompee oplliekt eoa rgaubeo wuatv easn,d itsha ib so ofko r peopwlheol itkoea rgaubeo tuhte m. Whatia sw ave? Ify ouw attchhse e far otmh seh oyroeuc asno mettirmaeacs e wave awlalay s itc tho em ienfs r otmh oep esne aF.i rals ot ngo fl ine shadsocwu ndgdt iowatrhdlesa ntdh,ea nno bviroiudsog fwe a ter 1 2
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