Washington, D.C. 2004 by Elise Hartman Ford Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers About the Author Elise Hartman Fordhas been a freelance writer in the Washington, D.C., area since 1985. Her writing has appeared in theWashington Post; Washingtonianmagazine; the London-based Bradman’s North America Guide, The Essential Guide to Business Travel; Ladies’ Home Journal, and other national, regional, and trade publications. In addi- tion to this guide, she is the author of Frommer’s Washington, D.C., from $80 a Day, Frommer’s Memorable Walks in Washington, D.C., and Unique Meeting, Wedding, and Party Places in Greater Washington. 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Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 Contents List of Maps v What’s New in Washington,D.C. 1 1 The Best of Washington,D.C. 4 1 Frommer’s Favorite D.C. 3 Best Dining Bets . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Site Seeing: The Best 2 Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Washington Websites . . . . . . . .12 2 Planning Your Trip to Washington,D.C. 16 1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .16 6 Specialized Travel Resources . . .28 2 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 7 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .33 Destination: Washington, Frommers.com: The Complete D.C.—Red Alert Checklist . . . . .18 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .34 3 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 8 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .35 Washington Calendar of 9 Getting Here . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Flying with Film & Video . . . . . .45 4 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .26 10 Recommended Reading . . . . . .47 5 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . .27 3 For International Visitors 49 1 Preparing for Your Trip . . . . . . .49 Fast Facts: For the International 2 Getting to the United States . . .55 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 3 Getting Around the United States . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 4 Getting to Know Washington,D.C. 62 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .71 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .69 Fast Facts: Washington, D.C. . . .77 5 Where to Stay 79 1 Capitol Hill/The Mall . . . . . . . . .82 4 Adams-Morgan . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . .86 5 Dupont Circle . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 2 Downtown,East of 16th 6 Foggy Bottom/West End . . . . .106 Street NW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 7 Georgetown . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109 3 Downtown,16th Street 8 Woodley Park . . . . . . . . . . . . .113 NW & West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 iv CONTENTS 6 Where to Dine 116 1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . .117 5 U Street Corridor . . . . . . . . . .142 2 Capitol Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . .119 6 Adams-Morgan . . . . . . . . . . .143 Dining at Sightseeing 7 Dupont Circle . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 8 Foggy Bottom/West End . . . . .151 3 Downtown,East of 16th 9 Georgetown . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154 Street NW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 A Spot of Tea . . . . . . . . . . . . .160 Vegetarian Times . . . . . . . . . .129 10 Glover Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161 Family-Friendly Restaurants . . .134 11 Woodley Park & 4 Downtown,16th Street Cleveland Park . . . . . . . . . . . .162 NW & West . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136 7 Exploring Washington,D.C. 165 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . .168 6 More Museums . . . . . . . . . . .202 Call Ahead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169 Museums of Special Interest . . .204 Openings and Closings . . . . . .170 7 Other Attractions . . . . . . . . . .211 1 The Three Houses of 8 Just Across the Potomac: Government . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170 Arlington . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214 2 The Major Memorials . . . . . . .178 9 Parks & Gardens . . . . . . . . . .217 3 The Smithsonian Museums . . .185 10 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .222 Museum Exhibits Scheduled Favorite Children’s for 2004 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190 Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222 4 Elsewhere on the Mall . . . . . .197 11 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .223 5 Other Government Agencies . . .200 12 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . .226 8 Shopping 228 1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .228 3 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . .230 2 Great Shopping Areas . . . . . . .228 Museum Shopping . . . . . . . . .243 9 Washington,D.C.,After Dark 246 1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . .247 Late-Night Bites . . . . . . . . . . .260 Washington Celebrates 3 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . .263 Tennessee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .251 Cheap Eats: Happy Hours to 2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . .255 Write Home About . . . . . . . . .264 D.C. Boogie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .259 Arlington Row . . . . . . . . . . . .266 CONTENTS v 10 Side Trips from Washington,D.C. 270 1 Mount Vernon . . . . . . . . . . . .270 Biking to Old Town Alexandria 2 Alexandria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .273 & Mount Vernon . . . . . . . . . .278 Appendix A:Washington,D.C.,in Depth 287 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288 Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288 Appendix B:Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 296 Index 299 General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .299 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . .306 Accommodations Index . . . . . .306 List of Maps D.C. Metropolitan Area 39 Georgetown Dining 155 Washington, D.C., at a Washington, D.C. Glance 66 Attractions 166 Major Metro Stops 72 Capitol Hill 171 Washington, D.C., The White House Area 177 Accommodations 84 The Mall 179 Adams-Morgan, Dupont Arlington National Circle & West End Cemetery 215 Accommodations 99 Rock Creek Park Area 219 Capitol Hill, Downtown & Washington, D.C., After Foggy Bottom Dining 126 Dark 248 Adams-Morgan & Dupont Circle Old Town Alexandria 275 Dining 145 For Caitlin and Lucy. An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Washington, D.C. 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s Memorable Walks in Washington, D.C. Frommer’s Washington, D.C., from $80 a Day Frommer’s Portable Washington, D.C. The Unofficial Guide to Washington, D.C. Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec- ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money Value Great values—where to get the best deals The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions