Voyages and Travels vol 16

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Title: A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 16

Author: Robert Kerr

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Language: English

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A

GENERAL

HISTORY AND COLLECTION

OF

VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,

ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER:

FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND

PROGRESS

OF NAVIGATION, DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE,

BY SEA AND LAND,

FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE PRESENT TIME.

BY

ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN.

ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS.

VOL. XVI.

WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH:

AND T. CADELL, LONDON.

MDCCCXXIV.

[pg vi]

CONTENTS OF VOL. XVI.

CHAP. III. Transactions at Otaheite, and the Society Islands; and prosecution of the Voyage to the Coast of North
America, 1

SECT.

I. An Eclipse of the Moon observed. The Island Toobouai discovered. Its Situation, Extent, and
Appearance. Intercourse with its Inhabitants. Their Persons, Dresses, and Canoes described. Arrival at
Oheitepeha Bay, at Otaheite. Omai's Reception and imprudent Conduct. Account of Spanish Ships twice
visiting the Island. Interview with the Chief of this District. The Olla, or God, of Bolabola. A mad Prophet.
Arrival in Matavai Bay, 1

II. Interview with Otoo, King of the Island, Imprudent Conduct of Omai. Employments on Shore.
European Animals landed. Particulars about a Native who had visited Lima. About Oedidee. A Revolt in
Eimeo. War with that Island determined upon, in a Council of Chiefs. A human Sacrifice on that Account.
A particular Relation of the Ceremonies at the great Morai, where the Sacrifice was offered. Other
barbarous Customs of this People, 16

III. Conference with Towha. Heevas described. Omai and Oedidee give Dinners. Fireworks exhibited. A
remarkable Present of Cloth. Manner of preserving the Body of a dead Chief. Another human Sacrifice.
Riding on Horseback. Otoo's Attention to supply Provisions, and prevent Thefts. Animals given to him.
Etary, and the Deputies of a Chief, have Audiences. A mock Fight of two War Canoes. Naval Strength of
these Islands. Manner of conducting a War, 35

IV. The Day of Sailing fixed. Peace made with Eimeo. Debates about it, and Otoo's Conduct blamed. A
Solemnity at the Morai on the Occasion, described by Mr King. Observations upon it. Instance of Otoo's
Art. Omai's War-Canoe, and Remarks upon his Behaviour. Otoo's Present, and Message to the King of
Great Britain. Reflections on our Manner of Traffic, and on the good Treatment we met with at Otaheite.
Account of the Expedition of the Spaniards. Their Fictions to depreciate the English. Wishes expressed
that no Settlement may be made. Omai's Jealousy of another Traveller, 48

V. Arrival at Eimeo. Two Harbours there, and an Account of them. Visit from Maheine, Chief of the
Island. His Person described. A Goat stolen, and sent back with the Thief. Another Goat stolen, and
secreted. Measures taken on the Occasion. Expedition cross the Island. Houses and Canoes burnt. The
Goat delivered up, and Peace restored. Some Account of the Island, &c. 62

VI. Arrival at Huaheine. Council of the Chiefs. Omai's Offerings, and Speech to the Chiefs. His
Establishment in this Island agreed to. A House built, and Garden planted for him. Singularity of his
Situation. Measures taken to insure his Safety. Damage done by Cock-roaches on board the Ships. A
Thief detected and punished. Fireworks exhibited. Animals left with Omai. His Family. Weapons.
Inscription on his House. His Behaviour on the Ships leaving the Island. Summary View of his Conduct
and Character. Account of the two New Zealand Youths, 71

VII. Arrival at Ulietea. Astronomical Observations. A Marine deserts, and is delivered up. Intelligence
from Omai. Instructions to Captain Clerke. Another Desertion of a Midshipman and a Seaman. Three of
the chief Persons of the Island confined on that Account. A Design to seize Captains Cook and Clerke
discovered. The two Deserters brought back, and the Prisoners released. The Ships sail. Refreshments
received at Ulietea. Present and former State of that Island. Account of its dethroned King, and of the late
Regent of Huaheine, 87

VIII. Arrival at Bolabola. Interview with Opoony. Reasons for purchasing Monsieur de Bougainville's
Anchor. Departure from the Society Islands. Particulars about Bolabola. History of the Conquest of
Otaha and Ulietea. High Reputation of the Bolabola Men. Animals left there and at Ulietea. Plentiful
Supply of Provisions, and Manner of salting Pork on Board. Various Reflections relative to Otaheite and
the Society Islands. Astronomical and Nautical Observations made there, 99

IX. Accounts of Otaheite still imperfect. The prevailing Winds. Beauty of the Country. Cultivation. Natural
Curiosities. The Persons of the Natives. Diseases. General Character. Love of Pleasure. Language.
Surgery and Physic. Articles of Food. Effects of drinking Ava. Times and Manner of Eating. Connexions
with the Females. Circumcision. System of Religion. Notions about the Soul and a future Life. Various
Superstitions. Traditions about the Creation. An historical Legend. Honours paid to the King. Distinction
of Ranks. Punishment of Crimes. Peculiarities of the neighbouring Islands. Names of their Gods. Names of
Islands they visit. Extent of their Navigation, 110

[pg vii]

[pg viii]

X. Progress of the Voyage, after leaving the Society Islands. Christmas Island discovered, and Station of
the Ships there. Boats sent ashore. Great Success in catching Turtle. An Eclipse of the Sun observed.
Distress of two Seamen who had lost their Way. Inscription left in a Bottle. Account of the Island. Its Soil.
Trees and Plants. Birds. Its Size. Form. Situation. Anchoring Ground, 139

XI. Some Islands discovered. Account of the Natives of Atooi, who came off to the Ships, and their
Behaviour on going on Board. One of them killed. Precautions used to prevent Intercourse with the
Females. A Watering-place found. Reception upon landing. Excursion into the Country. A Morai visited
and described. Graves of the Chiefs, and of the human Sacrifices, there buried. Another Island, called
Oneeheow, visited. Ceremonies performed by the Natives, who go off to the Ships. Reasons for believing
that they are Cannibals. A Party sent ashore, who remain two Nights. Account of what passed on landing.
The Ships leave the Islands, and proceed to the North, 148

XII. The Situation of the Islands now discovered. Their Names. Called the Sandwich Islands. Atooi
described. The Soil. Climate. Vegetable Productions. Birds. Fish. Domestic Animals. Persons of the
Inhabitants. Their Disposition. Dress. Ornaments. Habitations. Food. Cookery. Amusements.
Manufactures. Working-tools. Knowledge of Iron accounted for. Canoes. Agriculture. Account of one of
their Chiefs. Weapons. Customs agreeing with those of Tongataboo and Otaheite. Their Language the
same. Extent of this Nation throughout the Pacific Ocean. Reflections on the useful Situation of the
Sandwich Islands, 172

XIII. Observations made at the Sandwich Islands, on the Longitude, Variation of the Compass and Tides.
Prosecution of the Voyage. Remarks on the Mildness of the Weather, as far as the Latitude 44° North.
Paucity of Sea Birds, in the Northern Hemisphere. Small Sea Animals described. Arrival on the Coast of
America. Appearance of the Country. Unfavourable Winds and boisterous Weather. Remarks on Martin
de Aguilar's River, and Juan de Fuca's pretended Strait. An Inlet discovered, where the Ship's anchor.
Behaviour of the Natives, 195

CHAP. IV. Transactions, amongst the Natives of North America; Discoveries along that Coast and the Eastern
Extremity of Asia, Northward to Icy Cape; and return Southward to the Sandwich Islands, 207

SECT.

I. The Ships enter the Sound, and moor in a Harbour. Intercourse with the Natives. Articles brought to
barter. Thefts committed. The Observatories erected, and Carpenters set to work. Jealousy of the
Inhabitants of the Sound to prevent other Tribes having Intercourse with the Ships. Stormy and rainy
Weather. Progress round the Sound. Behaviour of the Natives at their Villages. Their Manner of drying
Fish, &c. Remarkable Visit from Strangers, and introductory Ceremonies. A second Visit to one of the
Villages. Leave to cut Grass, purchased. The Ships sail. Presents given and received at parting, 207

II. The Name of the Sound, and Directions for Sailing into it. Account of the adjacent Country. Weather.
Climate. Trees. Other Vegetable Productions. Quadrupeds, whose Skins were brought for Sale. Sea
Animals. Description of a Sea-Otter. Birds. Water Fowl. Fish. Shell-fish, &c. Reptiles. Insects. Stones,
&c. Persons of the Inhabitants. Their Colour. Common Dress and Ornaments. Occasional Dresses, and
monstrous Decorations of wooden Masks. Their general Dispositions. Songs. Musical Instruments. Their
Eagerness to possess Iron and other Metals, 221

III. Manner of Building the Houses in Nootka Sound. Inside of them described. Furniture and Utensils.
Wooden Images. Employments of the Men. Of the Women. Food, Animal and Vegetable. Manner of
preparing it. Weapons. Manufactures and Mechanic Arts. Carving and Painting. Canoes. Implements for
Fishing and Hunting. Iron Tools. Manner of procuring that Metal. Remarks on their Language, and a
Specimen of it. Astronomical and Nautical Observations made in Nootka Sound, 239

IV. A Storm, after sailing from Nootka Sound. Resolution springs a Leak. Pretended Strait of Admiral de
Fonte passed unexamined. Progress along the Coast of America. Behring's Bay. Kaye's Island. Account
of it. The Ships come to an Anchor. Visited by the Natives. Their Behaviour. Fondness for Beads and
Iron. Attempt to plunder the Discovery. Resolution's Leak stopped; Progress up the Sound. Messrs Gore
and Roberts sent to examine its Extent. Reasons against a Passage to the North through it. The Ships
proceed down it to the open Sea 260

V. The Inlet called Prince William's Sound. Its Extent. Persons of the Inhabitants described. Their Dress.
Incision of the Under-lip. Various other Ornaments. Their Boats. Weapons. Fishing and hunting
Instruments. Utensils. Tools. Uses Iron is applied to. Food. Language, and a Specimen of it. Animals.
Birds. Fish. Iron and Beads, whence received, 279

VI. Progress along the Coast. Cape Elizabeth. Cape St Hermogenes. Accounts of Beering's Voyage very
defective. Point Banks. Cape Douglas. Cape Bede. Mount St Augustin. Hopes of finding a Passage up an

[pg ix]

[pg x]

[pg xi]

[pg xii]

Inlet. The Ships proceed up it. Indubitable Marks of its being a River. Named Cook's River. The Ships
return down it. Various Visits from the Natives. Lieutenant King lands, and takes Possession of the
Country. His Report. The Resolution runs aground on a Shoal. Reflections on the Discovery of Cook's
River. The considerable Tides in it accounted for, 291

VII. Discoveries after leaving Cook's River. Island of St Hermogenes. Cape Whitsunday. Cape Greville.
Cape Barnabas. Two-headed Point. Trinity Island. Beering's Foggy Island. A beautiful Bird described.
Kodiak and the Schumagin Islands. A Russian Letter brought on Board by a Native. Conjectures about it.
Rock Point. Halibut Island. A Volcano Mountain. Providential Escape. Arrival of the Ships at
Oonalaschka. Intercourse with the Natives there. Another Russian Letter. Samganoodha Harbour
described, 306

VIII. Progress Northward, after leaving Oonalashka. The Islands Oonella and Acootan. Ooneemak.
Shallowness of the Water along the Coast. Bristol Bay. Round Island. Calm Point. Cape Newenham.
Lieutenant Williamson lands, and his Report. Bristol Bay, and its Extent. The Ships obliged to return on
account of Shoals. Natives come off to the Ships. Death of Mr Anderson; his Character; and Island
named after him. Point Rodney. Sledge Island, and Remarks on landing there. King's Island. Cape Prince
of Wales, the Western Extreme of America. Course Westward. Anchor in a Bay on the Coast of Asia,
323

IX. Behaviour of the Natives, the Tschutski, on seeing the Ships. Interview with some of them. Their
Weapons. Persons. Ornaments Clothing. Winter and Summer Habitations. The Ships cross the Strait, to
the Coast of America. Progress Northward. Cape Mulgrave. Appearance of Fields of Ice. Situation of
Icy Cape, the Sea blocked up with Ice. Sea-horses killed, and used as Provisions. These Animals
described. Dimensions of one of them. Cape Lisburne. Fruitless Attempt to get through the Ice at a
Distance from the Coast. Observations on the Formation of this Ice. Arrival on the Coast of Asia. Cape
North. The Prosecution of the Voyage deferred to the ensuing Year, 338

X. Return from Cape North, along the Coast of Asia. Views of the Country. Burney's Island. Cape
Serdze Kamen, the Northern Limit of Beering's Voyage. Pass the East Cape of Asia. Description and
Situation of it. Observations on Muller. The Tschutski. Bay of Saint Laurence. Two other Bays, and
Habitations of the Natives. Beering's Cape Tschukotskoi. Beering's Position of this Coast accurate. Island
of Saint Laurence. Pass to the American Coast. Cape Derby. Bald Head. Cape Denbigh, on a Peninsula.
Besborough Island. Wood and Water procured. Visits from the Natives. Their Persons and Habitations.
Produce of the Country. Marks that the Peninsula had formerly been surrounded by the Sea. Lieutenant
King's Report. Norton Sound. Lunar Observations there. Stæhlin's Map proved to be erroneous. Plan of
future Operations, 353

XI. Discoveries after leaving Norton Sound. Stuart's Island. Cape Stephens. Point Shallow-Water. Shoals
on the American Coast. Clerke's Island. Gore's Island. Pinnacle Island. Arrival at Oonalashka.
Intercourse with the Natives and Russian Traders. Charts of the Russian Discoveries, communicated by
Mr Ismyloff. Their Errors pointed out. Situation of the Islands visited by the Russians. Account of their
Settlement at Oonalashka. Of the Natives of the Island. Their Persons. Dress. Ornaments. Food. Houses
and domestic Utensils. Manufactures. Manner of producing Fire. Canoes. Fishing and Hunting
Implements. Fishes, and Sea Animals. Sea and Water Fowls, and Land Birds. Land Animals and
Vegetables. Manner of burying the Dead. Resemblance of the Natives on this Side of America to the
Greenlanders and Esquimaux. Tides. Observations for determining the Longitude of Oonalashka. 369

XII. Departure from Oonalashka, and future Views. The Island Amoghta. Situation of a remarkable Rock.
Strait between Oonalashka and Oonella repassed. Progress to the South. Melancholy Accident on board
the Discovery. Mowee, one of the Sandwich Islands, discovered. Intercourse with the Natives. Visit from
Terreeoboo. Another Island, called Owhyhee, discovered. The Ships ply to Windward to get round it. An
Eclipse of the Moon observed. The Crew refuse to drink Sugar-cane Beer. Cordage deficient in Strength.
Commendation of the Natives of Owhyhee. The Resolution gets to Windward of the Island. Her Progress
down the South-East Coast. Views of the Country, and Visits from the Natives. The Discovery joins.
Slow Progress Westward. Karakakooa Bay examined by Mr Bligh. Vast Concourse of the Natives. The
Ships anchor in the Bay, 402

CHAP. V. Captain King's Journal of the Transactions on Returning to the Sandwich Islands, 421

SECT.

I. Description of Karakakooa Bay. Vast Concourse of the Natives. Power of the Chiefs over the Inferior
People. Visit from Koah, a Priest and Warrior. The Morai at Kakooa described. Ceremonies at the
Landing of Captain Cook. Observatories erected. Powerful Operation of the Taboo. Method of Salting
Pork in Tropical Climates. Society of Priests discovered. Their Hospitality and Munificence. Reception of
Captain Cook. Artifice of Koah. Arrival of Terreeoboo, King of the Island. Returned by Captain Cook,

[pg xii]

[pg xiii]

[pg xiv]

421

II. Farther Account of Transactions with the Natives. Their Hospitality. Propensity to Theft. Description of
a Boxing Match. Death of one of our Seamen. Behaviour of the Priests at his Funeral. The Wood Work
and Images on the Morai purchased. The Natives inquisitive about our Departure. Their Opinion about the
Design of our Voyage. Magnificent Presents of Terreeoboo to Captain Cook. The Ships leave the Island.
The Resolution damaged in a Gale, and obliged to return, 434

III. Suspicious Behaviour of the Natives, on our Return to Karakakooa Bay. Theft on Board the
Discovery, and its Consequences. The Pinnace attacked, and the Crew obliged to quit her. Captain
Cook's Observations on the Occasion. Attempt at the Observatory. The Cutter of the Discovery stolen.
Measures taken by Captain Cook for its Recovery. Goes on Shore to invite the King on Board. The King
being stopped by his Wife and the Chiefs, a Contest arises. News arrives of one of the Chiefs being killed
by one of our People. Ferment on this Occasion. One of the Chiefs threatens Captain Cook, and is shot
by him. General Attack by the Natives. Death of Captain Cook. Account of the Captain's Services, and a
Sketch of his Character, 446

IV. Transactions at Owhyhee subsequent to the Death of Captain Cook. Gallant Behaviour of the
Lieutenant of Marines. Dangerous Situation of the Party at the Morai. Bravery of one of the Natives.
Consultation respecting future Measures. Demand of the Body of Captain Cook. Evasive and insidious
Conduct of Koah and the Chiefs. Insolent Behaviour of the Natives. Promotion of Officers. Arrival of two
Priests with Part of the Body. Extraordinary Behaviour of two Boys. Burning of the Village of Kakooa.
Unfortunate Destruction of the Dwellings of the Priests. Recovery of the Bones of Captain Cook.
Departure from Karakakooa Bay, 460

V. Departure from Karakakooa in Search of a Harbour on the South-East Side of Mowee. Driven to
Leeward by the Easterly Winds and Current. Pass the Island of Tahoorowha. Description of the South-
West Side of Mowee. Run along the Coasts of Ranai and Morotoi to Woahoo. Description of the North-
East Coast of Woahoo. Unsuccessful Attempt to Water. Passage to Atooi. Anchor in Wymoa Bay.
Dangerous Situation of the Watering Party on Shore. Civil Dissensions in the Islands. Visit from the
contending Chiefs. Anchor off Oneeheow. Final Departure from the Sandwich Islands, 492

A

GENERAL HISTORY,

AND

COLLECTION

OF

VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.

PART III. BOOK III.

(CONTINUED.)

CHAPTER III.

TRANSACTIONS AT OTAHEITE, AND THE SOCIETY ISLANDS;

AND PROSECUTION OF THE VOYAGE TO THE COAST OF

NORTH AMERICA.

SECTION I.

[pg xv]

[pg xvi]

[pg 1]

An Eclipse of the Moon observed.—The Island Toobouai discovered.—Its Situation, Extent, and
Appearance.—Intercourse with its Inhabitants.—Their Persons, Dresses, and Canoes described.—
Arrival at Oheitepeha Bay, at Otaheite.—Omai's Reception and imprudent Conduct.—Account of
Spanish Ships twice visiting the Island.—Interview with the Chief of this District.—The Olla, or

God, of Bolabola.—A mad Prophet.—Arrival in Matavai Bay.

Having, as before related,1 taken our final leave of the Friendly Islands, I now resume my narrative of the voyage. In the
evening of the 17th of July, at eight o'clock, the body of Eaoo bore N.E. by N., distant three or four leagues. The wind
was now at E., and blew a fresh gale. With it I stood to the S., till half an hour past six o'clock the next morning, when a
sudden squall, from the same direction, took our ship aback; and, before the sails could be trimmed on the other tack,
the main-sail and the top-gallant sails were much torn.

The wind kept between the S.W. and S.E., on the 19th and 20th, afterward, it veered to the E., N.E., and N. The night
between the 20th and 21st, an eclipse of the moon was observed as follows, being then in the latitude of 22° 57-1/2' S.:

Apparent time, A.M.

H.M.S.

Beginning, byMr King, at
0 32 50}

Mr Bligh, at
0 33 25} Mean long. 186° 57-1/2'.

Myself, at
0 33 35}

End, by
Mr King at
1 44 56} Mean long. 186° 28-1/2'.

Mr Bligh at
1 44 6} Time keep. 186° 58-1/2'.

Myself, at
1 44 56}

The latitude and longitude are those of the ship, at 8h 56m a.m., being the time when the sun's altitude was taken for
finding the apparent time. At the beginning of the eclipse, the moon was in the zenith, so that it was found most
convenient to make use of the sextants, and to make the observations by the reflected image, which was brought down
to a convenient altitude. The same was done at the end, except by Mr King, who observed with a night telescope.
Although the greatest difference between our several observations is no more than fifty seconds, it, nevertheless,
appeared to me that two observers might differ more than double that time, in both the beginning and end. And, though
the times are noted to seconds, no such accuracy was pretended to. The odd seconds set down above, arose by
reducing the time, as given by the watch, to apparent time.

I continued to stretch to the E.S.E., with the wind at N.E. and N., without meeting with any thing worthy of note, till
seven o'clock in the evening of the 29th, when we had a sudden and very heavy squall of wind from the N. At this time
we were under single reefed topsails, courses, and stay-sails. Two of the latter were blown to pieces, and it was with
difficulty that we saved the other sails. After this squall, we observed several lights moving about on board the
Discovery, by which we concluded, that something had given way; and, the next morning, we saw that her main-top-
mast had been lost. Both wind and weather continued very unsettled till noon, this day, when the latter cleared up, and
the former settled in the N.W. quarter. At this time, we were in the latitude of 28° 6' S., and our longitude was 198° 23'
E. Here we saw some pintado birds, being the first since we left the land.

On the 31st, at noon, Captain Clerke made a signal to speak with me. By the return of the boat which I sent on board
his ship, he informed me, that the head of the main-mast had been just discovered to be sprung, in such a manner as to
render the rigging of another top-mast very dangerous; and that, therefore, he must rig something lighter in its place. He
also informed me, that he had lost his main-top-gallant-yard, and that he neither had another, nor a spar to make one,
on board. The Resolution's sprit-sail top-sail yard which I sent him, supplied this want. The next day, he got up a jury
top-mast, on which he set a mizen-top-sail, and this enabled him to keep way with the Resolution.

The wind was fixed in the western board, that is, from the N., round by the W. to S., and I steered E.N.E. and N.E.,
without meeting with anything remarkable, till eleven o'clock in the morning of the 8th of August, when land was seen,
bearing N.N.E., nine or ten leagues distant. At first, it appeared in detached hills, like so many separate islands; but, as
we drew nearer, we found that they were all connected, and belonged to one and the same island. I steered directly for
it, with a fine gale at S.E. by S.; and at half-past six o'clock in the afternoon, it extended from N. by E., to N.N.E. 3/4
E., distant three or four leagues.

The night was spent standing off and on; and at day-break the next morning, I steered for the N.W., or lee-side of the
island; and as we stood round its S. or S.W. part, we saw it every where guarded by a reef of coral rock, extending, in
some places, a full mile from the land, and a high surf breaking upon it. Some thought that they saw land to the
southward of this island; but, as that was to the windward, it was left undetermined. As we drew near, we saw people
on different parts of the coast, walking, or running along the shore, and in a little time after we had reached the lee-side
of the island, we saw them launch two canoes, into which above a dozen men got, and paddled toward us.

I now shortened sail, as well to give these canoes time to come up with us, as to sound for anchorage. At the distance
of about half a mile from the reef, we found from forty to thirty-five fathoms water, over a bottom of fine sand. Nearer

[pg 2]

[pg 3]

[pg 4]

in, the bottom was strewed with coral rocks. The canoes having advanced to about the distance of a pistol-shot from
the ship, there stopped. Omai was employed, as he usually had been on such occasions, to use all his eloquence to
prevail upon the men in them to come nearer; but no entreaties could induce them to trust themselves within our reach.
They kept eagerly pointing to the shore with their paddles, and calling to us to go thither; and several of their
countrymen who stood upon the beach held up something white, which we considered also as an invitation to land. We
could very well have done this, as there was good anchorage without the reef, and a break or opening in it, from
whence the canoes had come out, which had no surf upon it, and where, if there was not water for the ships, there was
more than sufficient for the boats. But I did not think proper to risk losing the advantage of a fair wind, for the sake of
examining an island that appeared to be of little consequence. We stood in no need of refreshments, if I had been sure
of meeting with them there; and having already been so unexpectedly delayed in my progress to the Society Islands, I
was desirous of avoiding every possibility of farther retardment. For this reason, after making several unsuccessful
attempts to induce these people to come alongside, I made sail to the N., and left them, but not without getting from
them, during their vicinity to our ship, the name of their island, which they called Toobouai.

It is situated in the latitude of 23° 25' S., and in 210 37' E. longitude. Its greatest extent, in any direction, exclusive of
the reef, is not above five or six miles. On the N.W. side, the reef appears in detached pieces, between which the sea
seems to break upon the shore. Small as the island is, there are hills in it of a considerable elevation. At the foot of the
hills, is a narrow border of flat land, running quite round it, edged with a white sand beach. The hills are covered with
grass, or some other herbage, except a few steep rocky cliffs at one part, with patches of trees interspersed to their
summits. But the plantations are more numerous in some of the vallies, and the flat border is quite covered with high,
strong trees, whose different kinds we could not discern, except some cocoa-palms, and a few of the etoa. According
to the information of the men in the canoes, their island is stocked with hogs and fowls, and produces the several fruits
and roots that are found at the other islands in this part of the Pacific Ocean.

We had an opportunity, from the conversation we had with those who came off to us, of satisfying ourselves, that the
inhabitants of Toobouai speak the Otaheite language, a circumstance that indubitably proves them to be of the same
nation. Those of them whom we saw in the canoes were a stout copper-coloured people, with straight black hair, which
some of them wore tied in a bunch on the crown of the head, and others flowing about the shoulders. Their faces were
somewhat round and full, but the features, upon the whole, rather flat, and their countenances seemed to express some
degree of natural ferocity. They had no covering but a piece of narrow stuff wrapped about the waist, and made to pass
between the thighs, to cover the adjoining parts; but some of those whom we saw upon the beach, where about a
hundred persons had assembled, were entirely clothed with a kind of white garment. We could observe, that some of
our visitors in the canoes wore pearl shells hang about the neck as an ornament. One of them kept blowing a large
conch-shell, to which a reed near two feet long was fixed; at first, with a continued tone of the same kind, but he
afterward converted it into a kind of musical instrument, perpetually repeating two or three notes, with the same
strength. What the blowing the conch portended, I cannot say, but I never found it the messenger of peace.

Their canoes appeared to be about thirty feet long, and two feet above the surface of the water, as they floated. The
fore part projected a little, and had a notch cut across, as if intended to represent the mouth of some animal. The after
part rose, with a gentle curve, to the height of two or three feet, turning gradually smaller, and, as well as the upper part
of the sides, was carved all over. The rest of the sides, which were perpendicular, were curiously incrustated with flat
white shells, disposed nearly in concentric semicircles, with the curve upward. One of the canoes carried seven, and the
other eight men, and they were managed with small paddles, whose blades were nearly round. Each of them had a
pretty long outrigger; and they sometimes paddled, with the two opposite sides together so close, that they seemed to
be one boat with two outriggers, the rowers turning their faces occasionally to the stern, and pulling that way, without
paddling the canoes round. When they saw us determined to leave them, they stood up in their canoes, and repeated
something very loudly in concert, but we could not tell whether this was meant as a mark of their friendship or enmity. It
is certain, however, that they had no weapons with them, nor could we perceive with our glasses that those on shore
had any.2

After leaving this island, from the discovery of which future navigators may possibly derive some advantage, I steered to
the N. with a fresh gale at E. by S., and, at day-break in the morning of the 12th, we saw the island of Maitea. Soon
after, Otaheite made its appearance; and at noon, it extended from S.W. by W. to W.N.W.; the point of Oheitepeha
bay bearing W., about four leagues distant. I steered for this bay, intending to anchor there, in order to draw what
refreshments I could from the S.E. part of the island, before I went down to Matavai, from the neighbourhood of which
station I expected my principal supply. We had a fresh gale easterly, till two o'clock in the afternoon, when, being about
a league from the bay, the wind suddenly died away, and was succeeded by baffling light airs from every direction, and
calms by turns. This lasted about two hours. Then we had sudden squalls, with rain, from the E. These carried us before
the bay, where we got a breeze from the land, and attempted in vain to work in to gain the anchoring-place. So that at
last about nine o'clock, we were obliged to stand out, and to spend the night at sea.

When we first drew near the island, several canoes came off to the ship, each conducted by two or three men; but, as
they were common fellows, Omai took no particular notice of them, nor they of him. They did not even seem to
perceive that he was one of their countrymen, although they conversed with him for some time. At length, a chief whom
I had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, who chanced to be now at this corner of the island, and
three or four more persons, all of whom knew Omai before he embarked with Captain Furneaux, came on board. Yet

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there was nothing either tender or striking in their meeting. On the contrary, there seemed to be a perfect indifference on
both sides, till Omai, having taken his brother down into the cabin, opened the drawer where he kept his red feathers,
and gave him a few. This being presently known amongst the rest of the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was
entirely turned, and Ootee, who would hardly speak to Omai before, now begged that they might be tayos (friends),
and exchange names. Omai accepted of the honour, and confirmed it with a present of red feathers, and Ootee, by way
of return, sent ashore for a hog. But it was evident to every one of us, that it was not the man, but his property, they
were in love with. Had he not shewn to them his treasure of red feathers, which is the commodity in greatest estimation
at the island, I question much whether they would have bestowed even a cocoa-nut upon him. Such was Omai's first
reception amongst his countrymen. I own, I never expected it would be otherwise; but still I was in hopes that the
valuable cargo of presents with which the liberality of his friends in England had loaded him, would be the means of
raising him into consequence, and of making him respected, and even courted by the first persons throughout the extent
of the Society Islands. This could not but have happened, had he conducted himself with any degree of prudence; but,
instead of it, I am sorry to say that he paid too little regard to the repeated advice of those who wished him well, and
suffered himself to be duped by every designing knave. From the natives who came off to us, in the course of this day,
we learnt that two ships had twice been in Oheitepeha Bay, since my last visit to this island in 1774, and that they had
left animals there such as we had on board. But, on farther enquiry, we found they were only hogs, dogs, goats, one
bull, and the male of some other animal, which, from the imperfect description now given us, we could not find out.
They told us that these ships had come from a place called Reema, by which we guessed that Lima, the capital of Peru,
was meant, and that these late visitors were Spaniards. We were informed that the first time they came, they built a
house, and left four men behind them, viz. two priests, a boy or servant, and a fourth person called Mateema, who was
much spoken of at this time, carrying away with them, when they sailed, four of the natives; that, in about ten months,
the same two ships returned, bringing back two of the islanders, the other two having died at Lima, and that, after a
short stay, they took away their own people; but that the house which they had built was left standing.

The important news of red feathers being on board our ships, having been conveyed on shore by Omai's friends, day
had no sooner begun to break, next morning, than we were surrounded by a multitude of canoes, crowded with people,
bringing hogs and fruits to market. At first, a quantity of feathers, not greater than what might be got from a tom-tit,
would purchase a hog of forty or fifty pounds weight. But, as almost every body in the ships was possessed of some of
this precious article of trade, it fell in its value above five hundred per cent. before night. However, even then, the
balance was much in our favour, and red feathers continued to preserve their superiority over every other commodity.
Some of the natives would not part with a hog, unless they received an axe in exchange; but nails and beads, and other
trinkets, which, during our former voyages, had so great a run at this island, were now so much despised, that few
would deign so much as to look at them.

There being but little wind all the morning, it was nine o'clock before we could get to an anchor in the bay, where we
moored with the two bowers. Soon after we had anchored, Omai's sister came on board to see him. I was happy to
observe, that, much to the honour of them both, their meeting was marked with expressions of the tenderest affection,
easier to be conceived than to be described.

This moving scene having closed, and the ship being properly moored, Omai and I went ashore. My first object was to
pay a visit to a man whom my friend represented as a very extraordinary personage indeed, for he said that he was the
god of Bolabola. We found him seated under one of those small awnings which they usually carry in their larger canoes.
He was an elderly man, and had lost the use of his limbs, so that he was carried from place to place upon a hand-
barrow. Some called him Olla, or Orra, which is the name of the god of Bolabola, but his own proper name was Etary.
From Omai's account of this person, I expected to have seen some religious adoration paid to him. But, excepting some
young plantain trees that lay before him, and upon the awning under which he sat, I could observe nothing by which he
might be distinguished from their other chiefs. Omai presented to him a tuft of red feathers, tied to the end of a small
stick; but, after a little conversation on indifferent matters with this Bolabola man, his attention was drawn to an old
woman, the sister of his mother. She was already at his feet, and had bedewed them plentifully with tears of joy.

I left him with the old lady, in the midst of a number of people who had gathered round him, and went to take a view of
the house said to be built by the strangers who had lately been here. I found it standing at a small distance from the
beach. The wooden materials of which it was composed seemed to have been brought hither, ready prepared, to be set
up occasionally; for all the planks were numbered. It was divided into two small rooms; and in the inner one were a
bedstead, a table, a bench, some old hats, and other trifles, of which the natives seemed to be very careful, as also of
the house itself, which had suffered no hurt from the weather, a shed having been built over it. There were scuttles all
around, which served as air holes; and, perhaps, they were also meant to fire from with muskets, if ever this should have
been found necessary. At a little distance from the front stood a wooden cross, on the transverse part of which was cut
the following inscription:

Christus vincit.

And on the perpendicular part (which confirmed our conjecture that the two ships were Spanish),

Carolus III. imperat. 1774.

On the other side of the post I preserved the memory of the prior visits of the English, by inscribing,

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Georgius Tertius Rex,
Annis 1767,
1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777.

The natives pointed out to us, near the foot of the cross, the grave of the commodore of the two ships, who had died
here while they lay in the bay the first time. His name, as they pronounced it, was Oreede. Whatever the intentions of
the Spaniards in visiting this island might be, they seemed to have taken great pains to ingratiate themselves with the
inhabitants, who, upon every occasion, mentioned them with the strongest expressions of esteem, and veneration.

I met with no chief of any considerable note on this occasion, excepting the extraordinary personage above described.
Waheiadooa, the sovereign of Tiaraboo (as this part of the island is called), was now absent; and I afterward found that
he was not the same person, though of the same name with the chief whom I had seen here during my last voyage; but
his brother, a boy of about ten years of age, who had succeeded upon the death of the elder Waheiadooa, about
twenty months before our arrival. We also learned that the celebrated Oberea was dead; but that Otoo and all our
other friends were living.

When I returned from viewing the house and cross erected by the Spaniards, I found Omai holding forth to a large
company; and it was with some difficulty that he could be got away to accompany me on board, where I had an
important affair to settle.

As I knew that Otaheite, and the neighbouring islands, could furnish us with a plentiful supply of cocoa-nuts, the liquor
of which is an excellent succedaneum for any artificial beverage, I was desirous of prevailing upon my people to
consent to be abridged, during our stay here, of their stated allowance of spirits to mix with water. But as this stoppage
of a favourite article, without assigning some reason, might have occasioned a general murmur, I thought it most prudent
to assemble the ship's company, and to make known to them the intent of the voyage, and the extent of our future
operations. To induce them to undertake which with cheerfulness and perseverance, I took notice of the rewards
offered by parliament to such of his majesty's subjects as shall first discover a communication between the Atlantic and
Pacific Oceans, in any direction whatever, in the northern hemisphere; and also to such as shall first penetrate beyond
the 39th degree of northern latitude. I made no doubt, I told them, that I should find them willing to co-operate with me
in attempting, as far as might be possible, to become entitled to one or both these rewards; but that, to give us the best
chance of succeeding, it would be necessary to observe the utmost economy in the expenditure of our stores and
provisions, particularly the latter, as there was no probability of getting a supply any where, after leaving these islands. I
strengthened my argument by reminding them that our voyage must last at least a year longer than had been originally
supposed, by our having already lost the opportunity of getting to the north this summer. I begged them to consider the
various obstructions and difficulties we might still meet with, and the aggravated hardships they would labour under, if it
should be found necessary to put them to short allowance of any species of provisions, in a cold climate. For these very
substantial reasons, I submitted to them whether it would not be better to be prudent in time, and rather than to run the
risk of having no spirits left, when such a cordial would be most wanted, to consent to be without their grog now, when
we had so excellent a liquor as that of cocoa-nuts to substitute in its place; but that, after all, I left the determination
entirely to their own choice.

I had the satisfaction to find that this proposal did not remain a single moment under consideration; being unanimously
approved of immediately, without any objection. I ordered Captain Clerk to make the same proposal to his people,
which they also agreed to. Accordingly we stopped serving grog, except on Saturday nights, when the companies of
both ships had full allowance of it, that they might drink the healths of their female friends in England, lest these, amongst
the pretty girls of Otaheite, should be wholly forgotten.3

The next day, we began some necessary operations; to inspect the provisions that were in the main and fore-hold; to
get the casks of beef and pork, and the coals out of the ground tier, and to put some ballast in their place. The caulkers
were set to work to caulk the ship, which she stood in great need of, having at times made much water on our passage
from the Friendly Islands. I also put on shore the bull, cows, horses, and sheep, and appointed two men to look after
them while grazing; for I did not intend to leave any of them at this part of the island.

During the two following days, it hardly ever ceased raining. The natives, nevertheless, came to us from every quarter,
the news of our arrival having rapidly spread. Waheiadooa, though at a distance, had been informed of it; and, in the
afternoon of the 16th, a chief, named Etorea, under whose tutorage he was, brought me two hogs as a present from
him, and acquainted me that he himself would be with us the day after. And so it proved; for I received a message from
him the next morning, notifying his arrival, and desiring I would go ashore to meet him. Accordingly, Omai and I
prepared to pay him a formal visit. On this occasion, Omai, assisted by some of his friends, dressed himself, not after
the English fashion, nor that of Otaheite, nor that of Tongataboo, nor in the dress of any country upon earth, but in a
strange medley of all that he was possessed of.

Thus equipped, on our landing, we first visited Etary, who, carried on a hand-barrow, attended us to a large house,
where he was set down, and we seated ourselves on each side of him. I caused a piece of Tongataboo cloth to be
spread out before us, on which I laid the presents I intended to make. Presently the young chief came, attended by his
mother, and several principal men, who all seated themselves at the other end of the cloth, facing us. Then a man, who

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sat by me, made a speech, consisting of short and separate sentences, part of which was dictated by those about him.
He was answered by one from the opposite side, near the chief. Etary spoke next, then Omai, and both of them were
answered from the same quarter. These orations were entirely about my arrival, and connexions with them. The person
who spoke last told me, among other things, that the men of Reema, that is, the Spaniards, had desired them not to
suffer me to come into Oheitepeha Bay, if I should return any more to the island, for that it belonged to them; but that
they were so far from paying any regard to this request, that he was authorised now to make a formal surrender of the
province of Tiaraboo to me, and of every thing in it; which marks very plainly that these people are no strangers to the
policy of accommodating themselves to present circumstances. At length, the young chief was directed by his attendants
to come and embrace me, and, by way of confirming this treaty of friendship, we exchanged names. The ceremony
being closed, he and his friends accompanied me on board to dinner.

Omai had prepared a maro, composed of red and yellow feathers, which he intended for Otoo, the king of the whole
island; and, considering where we were, it was a present of very great value. I said all that I could to persuade him not
to produce it now, wishing him to keep it on board till an opportunity should offer of presenting it to Otoo with his own
hands. But he had too good an opinion of the honesty and fidelity of his countrymen to take my advice. Nothing would
serve him but to carry it ashore on this occasion, and to give it to Waheiadooa, to be by him forwarded to Otoo, in
order to its being added to the royal maro. He thought by this management that he should oblige both chiefs; whereas
he highly disobliged the one, whose favour was of the most consequence to him, without gaining any reward from the
other. What I had foreseen happened, for Waheiadooa kept the maro for himself, and only sent to Otoo a very small
piece of feathers, not the twentieth part of what belonged to the magnificent present.

On the 19th, this young chief made me a present of ten or a dozen hogs, a quantity of fruit, and some cloth. In the
evening, we played off some fire-works, which both astonished and entertained the numerous spectators.

This day, some of our gentlemen in their walks found what they were pleased to call a Roman Catholic chapel. Indeed,
from their account, this was not to be doubted, for they described the altar, and every other constituent part of such a
place of worship. However, as they mentioned, at the same time, that two men who had the care of it, would not suffer
them to go in, I thought that they might be mistaken, and had the curiosity to pay a visit to it myself. The supposed
chapel proved to be a toopapaoo, in which the remains of the late Waheiadooa lay, as it were, in state. It was in a
pretty large house, which was inclosed with a low pallisade. The toopapaoo was uncommonly neat, and resembled one
of those little houses or awnings belonging to their large canoes. Perhaps it had originally been employed for that
purpose. It was covered and hung round with cloth and mats of different colours, so as to have a pretty effect. There
was one piece of scarlet broad-cloth, four or five yards in length, conspicuous among the other ornaments, which, no
doubt, had been a present from the Spaniards. This cloth, and a few tassels of feathers, which our gentlemen supposed
to be silk, suggested to them the idea of a chapel, for, whatever else was wanting to create a resemblance, their
imagination supplied; and, if they had not previously known that there had been Spaniards lately here, they could not
possibly have made the mistake. Small offerings of fruit and roots seemed to be daily made at this shrine, as some
pieces were quite fresh. These were deposited upon a whatta, or altar, which stood without the pallisades; and within
these we were not permitted to enter. Two men constantly attended night and day, not only to watch over the place, but
also to dress and undress the toopapaoo. For when I first went to survey it, the cloth and its appendages were all rolled
up; but, at my request, the two attendants hung it out in order, first dressing themselves in clean white robes. They told
me that the chief had been dead twenty months.

Having taken in a fresh supply of water, and finished all our other necessary operations, on the 22d, I brought off the
cattle and sheep which had been put on shore here to graze, and made ready for sea.

In the morning of the 23d, while the ships were unmooring, Omai and I landed to take leave of the young chief. While
we were with him, one of those enthusiastic persons whom they call Eatooas, from a persuasion that they are
possessed with the spirit of the divinity, came and stood before us. He had all the appearance of a man not in his right
senses; and his only dress was a large quantity of plantain leaves, wrapped round his waist. He spoke in a low
squeaking voice, so as hardly to be understood, at least not by me. But Omai said that he comprehended him perfectly,
and that he was advising Waheiadooa not to go with me to Matavai; an expedition which I had never heard that he
intended, nor had I ever made such a proposal to him. The Eatooa also foretold that the ships would not get to
Matavai that day. But in this he was mistaken; though appearances now rather favoured his prediction, there not being a
breath of wind in any direction. While he was prophesying, there fell a very heavy shower of...