Volvo S40 & V40 Service and Repair Manual PDF
Preview Volvo S40 & V40 Service and Repair Manual
VOLVO S40 & V40 1996 to Mar 2004 (N registration onwards) Petrol Haynes Service and Repair Manual Contents LIVING WITH YOUR VOLVO S40 & V40 Safety first! Page 0*5 Introduction Page 0«6 Roadside repairs Introduction Page 0*7 If your car won't start Page 0*7 Jump starting Page 0*8 Identifying leaks Page 0*9 Towing Page 0*9 Wheel changing Page 0*10 Weekly checks Introduction Page 0*11 Underbonnet check points Page 0»11 Engine oil level Page 0*12 Coolant level Page 0*12 Brake and clutch fluid level Page 013 Power steering fluid level Page 0*13 Battery Page 0*14 Electrical systems Page 0*14 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0*15 Screen washer fluid level Page (M6 Wiper blades Page 0»16 Lubricants and fluids Page 0*17 Tyre pressures Page 0*17 MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Servicing specifications Page 1 *2 Maintenance schedule Page 1 *3 Maintenance procedures Page 1 *5 Contents REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems Engine in-car repair procedures (except GDI) Page 2A*1 Engine in-car repair procedures (GDI) Page 2B*1 Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2C*1 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3*1 Fuel system - except GDI engine Page 4A*1 Fuel system - GDI engine Page 4B*1 Exhaust and emission control systems Page 4C*1 Starting and charging systems Page 5A*1 Ignition system Page 5B*1 Transmission Clutch Page 6*1 Manual transmission Page 7A*1 Automatic transmission Page 7B*1 Driveshafts Page 8*1 Brakes and suspension Braking system Page 9*1 Suspension and steering Page 10*1 Body equipment Bodywork and fittings Page 11*1 Body electrical systems Page 12*1 Wiring diagrams Page 12*26 REFERENCE Dimensions and weights Page REF*1 Conversion factors Page REF*2 Buying spare parts Page REF*3 Vehicle identification Page REF*3 General repair procedures Page REF*4 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF*5 Audio unit anti-theft system - precaution Page REF*5 Tools and working facilities Page REF*6 MOT test checks Page REF*8 Fault finding Page REF-12 Glossary of technical terms Page REF*19 Index Page REF-23 0-6 Introduction The range received a major facelift in May 2000, with new lights and bumpers, suspension revisions, 2.0 litre variable valve timing engines, and a new 5-speed automatic transmission. A further facelift in April 2002 resulted in a new-look Volvo radiator grille and other minor changes. Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations, the S40A/40 should prove reliable and economical. The engine compartment is well-designed, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible. Your Volvo S40 & V40 manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and The Volvo S40/V40 was introduced into the of the petrol engine was introduced, initially servicing, and give a logical course of action UK in May of 1996 as a replacement for the in Saloon models only. Towards the end of 400 series. The S40/V40 range was 1997, two turbocharged petrol engines were and diagnosis when random faults occur. developed jointly with Mitsubishi, and is built also introduced; the high-powered 1855 cc However, it is hoped that you will use the along with its sister car, the Mitsubishi engine (fitted to the T4 model) and a low- manual by tackling the work yourself. On Carisma, at the NedCar plant in Holland. At its pressure turbo version of the 1948 cc simpler jobs it may even be quicker than launch, the S40 Saloon and V40 Estate engine. booking the car into a garage and going there models were available with a choice of either In March 1998, the first models with the twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most 1.8 litre (1731 cc) or 2.0 litre (1948 cc) petrol Mitsubishi-designed 1.8 litre (1834 cc) GDI important, a lot of money can be saved by engines, with either a 5-speed manual engine were introduced, while in early 1999, avoiding the costs a garage must charge to transmission or a 4-speed automatic. Both the first diesel models (not covered in this cover its labour and overheads. engines were newly-designed 16-valve manual) were added to the range. Also in double overhead camshaft (DOHC) units. 1999, the 1.6 and 1.8 litre engines (except the The manual has drawings and descriptions All models have fully-independent front and GDI engine) gained variable valve timing, and to show the function of the various rear suspension, and are equipped with anti- a consequent boost in power - the 1.8 litre components so that their layout can be lock disc brakes all round. unit also grew slightly in capacity at this time, understood. Tasks are described and In early 1997, a 1.6 litre (1588 cc) version from 1731 cc to 1783 cc. photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. References to the 'left' and 'right' of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards. Acknowledgements Certain illustrations are the copyright of Volvo Car Corporation, and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. Roadside repairs 0.7 The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters. If your car won't start If your car won't start and the starter motor even though the starter doesn't turn motor turns as normal • If it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the • Is there fuel in the tank? selector is in the P or N position. • Has the engine immobiliser been deactivated? This should • Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals happen automatically, on inserting the ignition key. are clean and tight (unclip the battery cover for access). However, if a replacement key has been obtained (other • Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the than from a Volvo dealer), it may not contain the headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the transponder chip necessary to deactivate the system. battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting • Is there moisture on electrical components under the (see next page) using another car. bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coils wiring connector. A Check the condition and security of the BUnclip the plastic cover from the centre -4 If possible, remove the engine cover battery connections of the bulkhead and check that the w I to... engine management system wiring connectors are all securely joined . . . check that the ignition coil wiring connectors are securely connected ... . . . and the HT leads (non-GDI Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with engines) are securely connected to a water dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp. both the coils and spark plugs 0.8 Roadside repairs Jump starting Jump starting will get you out HAYNES Шл of trouble, but you must correct When jump-starting a car using a • Make sure that the booster battery is whatever made the battery go booster battery, observe the following the same voltage as the discharged flat in the first place. There are precautions: one in the vehicle. three possibilities: fThe battery has been drained by • Before connecting the booster repeated attempts to start, or by battery, make sure that the ignition is • If the battery is being jump-started leaving the lights on. switched off. from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH 2 The charging system is not working • Ensure that all electrical equipment each other. properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is alternator itself faulty). switched off. • Make sure that the transmission is in 3The battery itself is at fault • Take note of any special precautions neutral (or PARK, in the case of (electrolyte low, or battery worn out). printed on the battery case. automatic transmission). IC onnect one end of the red jump lead to Connect the other end of the red lead to Connect one end of the black jump lead the positive (+) terminal of the flat the positive (+) terminal of the booster to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery battery. battery Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started. Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drive- belts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc. Roadside repairs 0.9 Identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or Warning: Most automotive oils The smell of a fluid leaking obvious wetness under the bonnet or and fluids are poisonous. Wash HAYNES from the car may provide a underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs them off skin, and change out clue to what's leaking. Some investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to of contaminated clothing, fluids are distinctively coloured. decide where the leak is coming from, without delay. It may help to clean the car carefully especially if the engine bay is very dirty and to park it over some clean paper already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown overnight as an aid to locating the rearwards by the passage o" air under the car, source of the leak. giving a false impression of where the Remember that some leaks may only problem lies. occur while the engine is running. Sump oil Oil from filter Gearbox oil Engine oil may leak from the drain plug. ...or from the base of the oil filter. Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts. Antifreeze Brake fluid Power steering fluid Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline A leak occurring at a wheel is almost Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe deposit like this. certainly brake fluid. connectors on the steering rack. Towing When all else fails, you may find yourself that the steering lock is released, and that the operational with the engine running. having to get a tow home - or of course you direction indicator and brake lights will work. • On models with power steering, greater- may be helping somebody else. Long- • Both front and rear towing eyes are than-usual steering effort will also be required. distance recovery should only be done by a provided. They are located centrally, below • The driver of the car being towed must garage or breakdown service. For shorter the front and rear bumpers. keep the tow-rope taut to avoid snatching. distances, DIY towing using another car is • Before being towed, release the handbrake • Make sure that both drivers know the route easy enough, but observe the following and select neutral on the transmission. On before setting off. points: models with automatic transmission, special • Only drive at moderate speeds and keep • Use a proper tow-rope - they are not precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or the distance towed to a minimum. Drive expensive. The vehicle being towed must transmission damage may result. smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. • Note that greater-than-usual pedal down at junctions. • Always turn the ignition key to the 'on' pressure will be required to operate the position when the vehicle is being towed, so brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only сю Roadside repairs Wheel changing A Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by Some of the details shown here will vary another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of according to model. passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand. Preparation • When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as • If you have one, use a warning triangle to • Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the it is safe to do so. alert other drivers of your presence. one being removed - a couple of large • Park on firm level ground, if possible, • Apply the handbrake and engage first or stones will do for this. and well out of the way of other traffic. reverse gear (or Park on models with • If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of • Use hazard warning lights if necessary. automatic transmission). wood to spread the load under the jack. Changing the wheel ILift up the luggage compartment floor 2. . . and the jack from the luggage 3 Slacken each wheel nut by half a turn. On and remove the toolkit then unscrew the compartment (Saloon model shown). some wheels it will be necessary to retainer and lift out the spare wheel... remove the centre cap/wheel trim (as applicable) to gain access to the nuts. 4 Where Volvo anti-theft wheel nuts are 5 Make sure the jack is located on firm 6 Ensure that the jack head is correctly fitted, use the adaptor supplied (try ground and engage the jack head with located in the sill seam cutout and the looking in the glovebox) to enable the special the lifting point on the sill. The lifting point is in base of the jack is directly underneath the sill wheel nut to be slackened. between the two notches on the sill seam; on seam. Using the wheelbrace and hooked rod models with plastic sill trim panels an arrow in the tool kit, raise the jack until the wheel is on the trim panel indicates its location. clear of the ground. Finally... • Remove the wheel chocks. • Stow the punctured wheel, jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. • Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don't have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the next garage and inflate the tyre to the correct pressure. • Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible. 7 Unscrew the wheel nuts and remove the 8 Securely tighten the wheel nuts in a • Note that the wheel nuts should be wheel. Fit the spare wheel and screw on diagonal sequence then refit the centre slackened and retightened to the the nuts. Lightly tighten the nuts with the wheel- cap/wheel trim (where removed). specified torque at the earliest possible brace then lower the vehicle to the ground. opportunity. Weekly checks on Introduction There are some very simple checks which • Keeping an eye on tyre condition and • If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the need only take a few minutes to carry out, but pressures, will not only help to stop them first time you might know about it is when which could save you a lot of inconvenience wearing out prematurely, but could also save your brakes don't work properly. Checking and expense. your life. the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. These Weekly checks require no great skill or • Many breakdowns are caused by electrical special tools, and the small amount of time problems. Battery-related faults are particularly • If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost they take to perform could prove to be very common, and a quick check on a regular basis of repairing any engine damage will be far well spent, for example; will often prevent the majority of these. greater than fixing the leak, for example. Underbonnet check points 4 2.0 litre engine (others similar) Д Engine oil level dipstick В Engine oil filler cap Q Coolant expansion tank Q Brake (and clutch) fluid reservoir E Battery F Power steering fluid reservoir о«12 Weekly checks Engine oil level Before you start • Make sure that your car is on level ground. • Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. HAYNES If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate IThe dipstick is located at the front of the 2 Using a clean rag or paper towel remove reading on the dipstick. engine (see Underbonnet checkpoints on all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean page 0*11 for exact location). Withdraw dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, the dipstick. then withdraw it again. The correct oil Modem engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See Lubricants and fluids on page 0*17). Car Care • If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil. • Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). 3Note the oil level on the end of the 4 Oil is added through the filler cap. If the level is too low severe engine damage dipstick which should be between the Unscrew the cap and top-up the level, a may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the upper (MAX) mark and lower (MIN) mark. funnel will help to prevent spillage. Add engine is overfilled by adding too much oil. Approximately 1.9 litres of oil (1.0 litre on GDI the oil slowly, checking the level on the engines) will raise the level from the lower dipstick often. Do not overfill. mark to the upper mark. Coolant level A Warning: DO NOT attempt to Car Care remove the expansion tank • With a sealed-type cooling system, adding • It is important that antifreeze is used in the pressure cap when the engine coolant should not be necessary on a regular cooling system all year round, not just during is hot, as there is a very great basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is the winter months. Don't top-up with water risk of scalding. Do not leave likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all alone, as the antifreeze will become too open containers of coolant hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or diluted. about, as it is poisonous. wetness, and rectify as necessary. IThe coolant level varies with engine 2 If topping-up is necessary, wait until the 3Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to temperature. When the engine is cold, engine is cold. Slowly unscrew the the expansion tank until the coolant level the coolant level should be between the expansion tank cap, to release any is in between the level marks then MAX and MIN level marks on the side of the pressure present in the cooling system, and securely refit the expansion cap tank. expansion tank. When the engine is hot, the remove it. level will rise.
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