Vintage Luxury Fashion PDF
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PALGRAVE ADVANCES IN LUXURY VINTAGE LUXURY FASHION Exploring the Rise of the Secondhand Clothing Trade Edited by Daniella Ryding, Claudia E. Henninger, & Marta Blazquez Cano Series editors: Paurav Shukla & Jaywant Singh Palgrave Advances in Luxury Series Editors Paurav Shukla Department of Economics Glasgow Caledonian University London, UK Jaywant Singh Kingston Business School Kingston University Kingston Upon Thames, UK The field of luxury studies increasingly encompasses a variety of perspectives not just limited to marketing and brand management. In recent times, a host of novel and topical issues on luxury such as sus- tainability, counterfeiting, emulation and consumption trends have gained prominence which draw on the fields of entrepreneurship, sociology, psychology and operations. Examining international trends from China, Asia, Europe, North America and the MENA region, Palgrave Advances in Luxury is the first series dedicated to this complex issue. Including multiple perspectives whilst being very much grounded in business, its aim is to offer an inte- grated picture of the management environment in which luxury oper- ates. It explores the newer debates relating to luxury consumption such as the signals used in expressing luxury, the socially divisive nature of luxury and the socio-economic segmentation that it brings. Filling a significant gap in our knowledge of this field, the series will help read- ers comprehend the significant management challenges unique to this construct. More information about this series at http://www.palgrave.com/gp/series/15396 Daniella Ryding · Claudia E. Henninger Marta Blazquez Cano Editors Vintage Luxury Fashion Exploring the Rise of the Secondhand Clothing Trade Editors Daniella Ryding Marta Blazquez Cano School of Materials School of Materials University of Manchester University of Manchester Manchester, UK Manchester, UK Claudia E. Henninger School of Materials University of Manchester Manchester, UK Palgrave Advances in Luxury ISBN 978-3-319-71984-9 ISBN 978-3-319-71985-6 (eBook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-71985-6 Library of Congress Control Number: 2017963535 © The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s) 2018 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are solely and exclusively licensed by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations. Cover credit: Ams images/Stockimo/Alamy Stock Photo Printed on acid-free paper This Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by Springer Nature The registered company is Springer International Publishing AG The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland Contents 1 Introduction to Vintage Luxury Fashion—Exploring the Rise of the Secondhand Clothing Trade 1 Daniella Ryding, Claudia E. Henninger and Marta Blazquez Cano 2 Restructuring Secondhand Fashion from the Consumption Perspective 11 Linda Lisa Maria Turunen, Hanna Leipämaa-Leskinen and Jenniina Sihvonen 3 Access-Based Consumption: A New Business Model for Luxury and Secondhand Fashion Business? 29 Amira Battle, Daniella Ryding and Claudia E. Henninger 4 Understanding the Culture of Consuming Pre-owned Luxury 45 Carly Fox v vi Contents 5 Pre-loved? Analysing the Dubai Luxe Resale Market 63 Liz Barnes and Gaynor Lea-Greenwood 6 Narrative and Emotional Accounts of Secondhand Luxury Purchases Along the Customer Journey 79 Marie-Cécile Cervellon and Edwige Vigreux 7 Perceived Brand Image of Luxury Fashion and Vintage Fashion—An Insight into Chinese Millennials’ Attitudes and Motivations 97 Claudia E. Henninger, Zejian Tong and Delia Vazquez 8 Sources of Value for Luxury Secondhand and Vintage Fashion Customers in Poland—From the Perspective of Its Demographic Characteristics 111 Edyta Rudawska, Magdalena Grębosz-Krawczyk and Daniella Ryding 9 Secondhand Index and the Spirit of Green Vintage Fashion 133 Cecilia Fredriksson and Devrim Umut Aslan 10 Dedicated Follower of Fashion 153 Neil Robinson and Crispin Dale 11 Do Fashion Blogs Influence Vintage Fashion Consumption? An Analysis from the Perspective of the Chinese Market 167 Marta Blazquez Cano, Stephen Doyle and Yiyuan Zhang Contents vii 12 Vintage Fashion: A Cross-Cultural Perspective 185 Lindsey Carey, Marie-Cécile Cervellon, Julie McColl, Aileen Stewart and Yuet Chak Yuki Yuen 13 Commercialisation and the Authenticity of Vintage Fashion 205 Anthony Kent, Suzanne Winfield and Charlotte Shi Index 219 Editors and Contributors About the Editors Daniella Ryding is a Senior Lecturer in Strategic Marketing Management and the Academic Lead for the New Academics Programme in the Faculty of Science and Engineering. She is the Exams Officer for the largest M.Sc. programmes in the School of Materials, she sits on a number of School and Faculty Committees for Teaching and Learning, and thereby is proactively involved with strategic decisions to improve the overall student experience. Daniella has a keen commitment and interest in educational research and is currently supervising doctoral work within this remit. In addition, she is an active researcher within her subject specialism with over 40 published articles, and several textbook contributions, and she sits on the editorial board for a number of academic business journals. Daniella is a member of the scientific committee and abstract coordinator for CIRCLE International (Centre for international Research on Consumers in their Locations and Environments), which hosts an annual conference with over 88 university members. The author’s main discipline-specific research centres on complex cognition, further exploring the psychological and behavioural mechanisms which impact on con- sumer decision-making within product packaging and the branding and com- munication business remits. She works with the School of Biological Sciences, Division of Cognitive Psychology and Neuroscience and co-supervises a ix x Editors and Contributors number of Ph.D. students on the topic of memory. She is also actively involved with a number of research projects which involve studies surrounding sustain- ability within the circular economy. Claudia E. Henninger is a Lecturer in Fashion Marketing Management at Manchester University, UK, where she teaches sustainability and strategic management. Claudia has presented her research at national and international conferences and published in leading journals. Claudia is the Deputy Chair of the Academy of Marketing SIG Sustainability. Her edited book Sustainability in Fashion—A Cradle to Upcycle Approach has been published in 2017 with Springer. Marta Blazquez Cano is a Lecturer in Fashion Marketing at the School of Materials, University of Manchester. Marta holds a BA in advertising and PR and has developed a career in the advertising and marketing industry for more than 10 years. She was awarded European Ph.D. in Marketing with Cum laude mention. Marta’s research interest includes omnichannel retail, experi- ential retail, channel integration, in-store technology, social media marketing, mobile marketing and consumer behaviour. She has published in leading jour- nals, contributed to edited books and presented her work at various national and international conferences. Marta has been visiting researcher at the Oxford Institute of Research Management (OXIRM), University of Oxford, and has been invited lecturer on several occasions in China and Spain. She supervises a number of Ph.D. and M.Sc. students in the areas of fashion marketing and retailing. Contributors Devrim Umut Aslan is a doctoral researcher in the Department of Service Management and Service Studies at Lund University, Sweden. His dissertation research focuses on consumers’ practices in marginal- ised urban geographies. Besides his doctorate position, he also worked as a retail analyst for City of Helsingborg in Sweden. Devrim is addi- tionally interested in topics such as digitalisation of retail, sustainable consumption and migrant entrepreneurship. He is specialised in video ethnography as a research method.
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